Norway 2018

Listening to silence Okumaya devam et

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23 Ağustos 2018
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Gün 1
23 Ağustos 2018 Perşembe 21:50
⛅ 15 °C
Yükseklik: 16 m
Norveç Østbanestasjonen 59.910328, 10.74706259°54’37” N 10°44’49” E
An evening in Oslo
23 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Bakery food scent in the air although it’s late afternoon. The fresh air is pleasant and caresses my hands while I get out of the train station, tired. A light flu keeps me company since yesterday and I feel the heat. My hair get messier and messier as I approach the shopping street, and Norwegian ladies look at me with understanding: another lost tourist without a hat.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 2
24 Ağustos 2018 Cuma 10:08
☁️ 11 °C
Yükseklik: 159 m
Norveç Mesna 61.114937, 10.46174861°6’54” N 10°27’42” E
On my way to the North
24 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
Early morning at the train station. There is little noise around although many people are transiting, mainly suited women and men with strong sturdy bodies, and pale skins. Most of men wear bears.
In the train, coffee scent invades the coach; an older woman wearing a scarlet lipstick left its marks all over her empty paper mug. Two young viking-like boys, tattooed, long blond hair and healthy faces, slowly take out of their bag a yoghurt with fruits. I tear apart my hotel check out confirmation and people in the surroundings turn towards me: quiet please.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 2
24 Ağustos 2018 Cuma 21:04
🌧 12 °C
Yükseklik: 11 m
Norveç Trøndelag Teater 63.430126, 10.39230163°25’48” N 10°23’32” E
First impressions of Trondheim
24 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
Slowly walking on the walk-side, strolling around like a little girl, thoughtless. It’s Friday and there’s only a few people outside here. Most of the shops close early and soon it will be weekend. The sun is catching me between a building and another, but I don’t want to hide, just play. I am looking for the riverside, yet I end up first at the main church where I see for the first time some tourists. They all listen in silence to a guide.
An old man with a long low bicycle and a stereo at the back approaches the heard of visitors, and then me, calmly. As he goes through the graveyard, we follow him with eyes wide open: celestial music is played.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 3
25 Ağustos 2018 Cumartesi 19:59
⛅ 12 °C
Yükseklik: 9 m
Norveç Østmarkneset 63.455582, 10.452463°27’20” N 10°27’9” E
An excursion to Lade (Trondheim)
25 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
The first outing to nature in Norway. I am not scared to be by myself as it’s an easy trail just outside town, and it’s the Locals “must do” on weekends, so I reckon there will be people out there.
The trails are like a spiderweb and I don’t know where to start and where to end. Before the forest, a thick layer of wheat makes my heart beat as it reminds me of my upbringings. I follow my instinct, which drives me to a flat rock and I sing a lullaby to the ptarmigans until they reply with a shrill cry.
I then decide to follow the peninsula corners instead of my instinct, and I get to a majestic old barn turned into a café. Boho chic place with pink armchairs and high ceilings, feeling like at a “non birthday” party of Alice in Wonderland.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 3
25 Ağustos 2018 Cumartesi 20:10
⛅ 11 °C
Yükseklik: 11 m
Norveç Trøndelag Teater 63.430176, 10.39221463°25’49” N 10°23’32” E
Back to the city (Trondheim)
25 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
I take the bus back to town. The driver is listening to “uptown girl” and “please don’t go breaking my heart”. I drop off downtown to take the last glance at the place: some jazz music is coming from the docks; shiny sky above the bricked buildings.
I rush off to my room (finally!), to shower and chill out in my fantastic, embarrassing snake pants. The sky offers another gift: the sun setting off behind my hotel window, bright as ever.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 4
26 Ağustos 2018 Pazar 14:00
🌧 10 °C
Yükseklik: Deniz seviyesi
Norveç Blomsterholmen 63.463646, 7.82607663°27’49” N 7°49’34” E
Cruising the western fjords
26 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ 🌧 10 °C
Early morning: I am already packed and eager to get to the first cruise of my life. First and last. I was reluctant to go for the environmental impact and I still have the guilt.
Polarlys is waiting for me already at the Pier. I am 75 minutes earlier and -of course!- my room’s not ready. I head to the top and I find the warm morning light penetrating the explorer’s deck. Leather reclinable chairs filled with something that feels like down (my buttocks swim in softness), everybody relaxed and reading or listening to music.
Three hours after the departure, blue-gray and golden-white clouds make their way towards us and release their waters. It’s an incredibly dramatic scenery: no hollywood special effect can replicate the fast pace and fury and colour changing and shapes the sky takes.
After the rain, a unicorn paints a big rainbow from the yellow and green hillside leaving me breathless: never seen its base so close!Okumaya devam et
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Gün 4
26 Ağustos 2018 Pazar 19:56
🌧 9 °C
Yükseklik: Deniz seviyesi
Norveç Håskjeret 62.767941, 6.66170962°46’5” N 6°39’42” E
Down towards Bergen
26 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ 🌧 9 °C
It’s 8 pm and I slept two hours this afternoon. I have a colourful tone, finally.
I get out of the room and they “offer” me, again, hand sanitiser. It’s mandatory here, I noticed I used it 6 times so far. It does not smell but it leaves a smarmy layer on your hands for a minute.
The observation deck is even quieter as most of the guests are at dinner. Outside it’s raining again and this part of the trip is mildly attractive to me-we are on the coast and not on fjords.
I have nonetheless the chance to take another dramatic shot at the grey light of this place: whirls of wind and water run all around us.
I put those snappy thoughts aside, and start reading the new book I bought on Norwegian social norms, conscious it will be a long evening - it will take a while before I fall asleep again.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 4
26 Ağustos 2018 Pazar
⛅ 12 °C
Yükseklik: 3 m
Norveç Flåm 60.863132, 7.11591260°51’47” N 7°6’57” E
Something magical about Norway
26 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Believe it or not, the latitude, the local species and the rocks create magical happenings.

1-Fata Morganas: The photo number 1 shows a Fata Morgana observed near Brasvelbreen Svalbard. The Fata Morgana is a superior mirage featuring the characteristics of vertical magnification and exaggeration. This attention-getting display lasted for several hours. It was viewed from about 4 m above sea level. The wind was calm and the air temperature was 6 C. Ice-strewn seas cooled the air in contact with it, forming a temperature inversion; a colder air layer beneath warmer air. When such atmospheric conditions are encountered, upward moving light rays from distant objects are refracted downwards by the different density air layers. To our eyes, the miraged object appears to be floating in the air. The direction of refraction is to curve rays towards denser, colder, air.

2-Psylocibin mushrooms: typical symptoms include visual distortions of color, depth and form, progressing to visual hallucinations. They can be found all over Norway.

3-Sunstones: the sunstone is a mineral (cordierite or Iceland spar) that polarises light and by which the azimuth of the sun can be determined in a partly overcast sky or when the sun is just below the horizon. The principle is used by many animals and polar flights applied the idea before more advanced techniques became available. The sunstone is considered to have aided navigation in the open sea in the Viking period.

4- Aurora borealis: The Aurora is an incredible light show caused by collisions between electrically charged particles released from the sun that enter the earth’s atmosphere and collide with gases such as oxygen and nitrogen. The lights are seen around the magnetic poles of the northern and southern hemispheres.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 5
27 Ağustos 2018 Pazartesi 13:39
⛅ 16 °C
Yükseklik: Deniz seviyesi
Norveç Trovikneset 60.478649, 4.98456360°28’43” N 4°59’4” E
The end of the cruise
27 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
The weather outside is not great (neither sunny, nor stormy like yesterday). The coast looks all the same and I regret embarking on the ship. Food hasn’t been great either, despite its cost (unavoidable since there is no “choice B”). The only tasty thing was the whipped butter, which inspired me to think of a twisted recipe- salt & rosemary & garlic whipped butter. I look up the cooking options online and it does not sound hard to make.

I haven’t slept much: the boat was inclined on one side all the time and I failed falling off the bed once. Very unexpected for such a big boat.

I am reading three books in parallel right now, but finished in 24 h the new book on Norwegian society: I must have been born on the wrong side of Europe. Silence, aloneness, social frameworks and the way I perceive an egalitarian society, here are respected values. I cannot imagine what it means for an extrovert to be born here though, pure torture!!! The reality is that this is an oppressive society, no better than the Italian one. Just with opposite values. Or maybe I am wrong? It has been ranked the happiest society on Earth.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 5
27 Ağustos 2018 Pazartesi 23:21
⛅ 13 °C
Yükseklik: 24 m
Norveç Bergen Ferry Port 60.392654, 5.32275360°23’34” N 5°19’22” E
First day in Bergen
27 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Highbrow men, dressed-up & made-up women of all ages; all staring at each other and walking fast. Hair saloons at every corner.

I move towards the port to see the wooden old town Unesco site. Only tourist shops and people queuing up to take pictures (my beloved Venice, this reminds me of you 🙏🏽).

The more authentic neighbourhood is full of locals sitting on bars outside, music is in the air. Cobbled streets and short buildings; street art and tattoo shops. Some playful decorations.

I get back to the hotel late in the evening. They told me they could not guarantee laundry for Wednesday morning: I have to wash myself my clothes then. I realized I have never hand-washed socks in my entire life. What a wonderful occasion! I learned you have to put your whole hand in the dirty sock, and then rub, if you want to assure cleanness. Unforgettable evening!Okumaya devam et
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Gün 6
28 Ağustos 2018 Salı
⛅ 13 °C
Yükseklik: 308 m
Norveç Torrfjelldalen 60.39489, 5.34368660°23’42” N 5°20’37” E
Floyen and the Trolls'forest (Bergen)
28 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
I get in front of the funicular very early, but unfortunately just after a group of 50 tourists. I line up thinking about the rankings of “worst tourists by nationality”. Top 3 is clear but cannot decide who’s first. I remind myself these are shallow thoughts and concentrate back on the reasons why I am there: wilderness love! 💚

As I start walking, again a maze of trails overwhelms me. The map of the trail I want to walk is really clear, conceptually, but practically I am terrible at orienteering.
I feel a strong humidity but I am properly dresses, very proud of my increased packing skills 💪🏽 Everything around me is covered with musk: fluffy green thick layers. I wouldn’t be surprised to meet a Troll anytime soon.

I get lost, happily this time, in the magic of the place. I finally find what I was looking for: wandering safely in silence in nature. I breath full lungs and close my eyes. In the ghost trail, I find an amanita muscaria: one of the most hallucinogens species in the surroundings. Big and beautiful, never seen it before.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 6
28 Ağustos 2018 Salı
⛅ 14 °C
Yükseklik: 4 m
Norveç Vågen 60.394669, 5.32387660°23’41” N 5°19’26” E
Bergen food tour
28 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Norway was a poor country until 50 years ago when oil was discovered. Food is an expression of their geography and financials: it can only be grown in summer months (potatoes, leeks and berries); hunting season is limited (fish, deer, whales and goat); and the rest of the food would have to be imported but it was too expensive until recently.

Today, the food I tried was a delicious mix of the above-mentioned ingredients, created in restaurants born 2-5 years ago, only thanks to tourism industry. Locals don’t eat at restaurants; they prefer convenience to quality (only place where I have seen pizza buffets 😱).Okumaya devam et
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Gün 6
28 Ağustos 2018 Salı
⛅ 14 °C
Yükseklik: 6 m
Norveç Lille Lungegårdsvannet 60.390366, 5.32824760°23’25” N 5°19’42” E
My fauvorite Bergen
28 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
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Gün 6
28 Ağustos 2018 Salı
⛅ 14 °C
Yükseklik: 10 m
Norveç Bergen Ferry Port 60.391876, 5.31977260°23’31” N 5°19’11” E
If Bergen's statues talked
28 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
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Gün 7
29 Ağustos 2018 Çarşamba
⛅ 15 °C
Yükseklik: 4 m
Norveç Flåm 60.863834, 7.11605960°51’50” N 7°6’58” E
The trip to Fjordeland
29 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
I am happy to go visit the inside Fjords finally. I dreamt about them many times in the last three weeks and imagined them inside out.

The train trip is mainly via tunnels, so my imagination stirs up even more. Black outside the window and vivid images in my mind.

The little tiny train climbs the mountain very slowly and it’s so noisy I have to use earplugs. A mandatory stop half-way up drops us to a platform over a waterfall: fairies of the forests come out dressed in red, and a Celtic music is played loudly, spreading on the whole valley.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 7
29 Ağustos 2018 Çarşamba
⛅ 15 °C
Yükseklik: 29 m
Norveç Viki 60.861042, 7.11672360°51’40” N 7°7’0” E
Flam fjord hike
29 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
My feet are sore. My shoulders are aching. I have been walking every day for a long time.
My shoes are the best walking shoes ever-and I bought them a few years ago on discount casually!
It’s not the gear, it’s the training for getting stronger that is killing me.

I take a hike behind Flam although I am stiff almost everywhere, and enjoy the breathtaking view. Finally I am where I wanted to be: at the center of my dreams.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 8
30 Ağustos 2018 Perşembe
⛅ 10 °C
Norveç Blombakkagrovi 60.918095, 6.86045660°55’5” N 6°51’38” E
Find a magic place and get lost
30 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
The hike on the fjord from Guendaven.

It’s a beautiful bright day, exceptional weather. I get a bus to the other arm of the fjord and start again a hike. 15 km today. I am more and more sore. My feet are so swollen I booked a pedicure and massage in Oslo the day I arrive. I still have 2 more days of intense hikes though.

I feel wobbly in my heart for everything: the beauty of the place, the warmth of the sun, the caresses of the wind and the humidity smell.
As I look up high around me, I feel drunk-like: mountains are so steep and impenetrable, the beauty is overwhelming.

I stop on my way to enjoy the sun and doing Metta meditation 🙏🏽🧘🏽‍♀️ I decide then to build a stone column with pink rocks, but I end up finding a fish-shape rock and the pink artefact plan is superseded.

Further away along the road I notice more and more unknown animal excreta. All of a sudden I hear a strong bellow coming from behind: as I turn, I see an enormous buffalo-like animal staring at me with suspicious look and I speed away.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 9
31 Ağustos 2018 Cuma
☀️ 15 °C
Yükseklik: 10 m
Norveç Lunden 60.852379, 7.11270860°51’9” N 7°6’46” E
Hiking along the river (Flam)
31 Ağustos 2018, Norveç ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
The sun is kissing me again, inviting me on another date.
I follow the warmth of the sun along the river, in the tiny valley. I can’t think of anything right now, and wander around looking for my meditation spot.
I find a baby apple tree bended by the weight of its own fruits, with man-made trunk aid: why have I never seen these red apples in any store in Norway? As I stare at it with delight and hunger, someone appears from behind and loudly greets me. HIHI! It’s the Norway “hello”. I startle and turn with disconcert. The local has a moustache and is chewing a toothpick, hands on his waistline and arms bended. He has whisky sunglasses, classic cop-style.
“Am I going in the wrong direction?”
He smiles. “There was a track here but farmed closed it to tourists”.
I wish some of the politicians in Venice met the local government here.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 10
1 Eylül 2018 Cumartesi
⛅ 14 °C
Yükseklik: 30 m
Norveç Folken 58.967777, 5.73007358°58’4” N 5°43’48” E
Welcome to Stavanger
1 Eylül 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
I feel consumed by the hiking and the travelling, but as soon as I step into Stavanger everything brightens up and I want to head out for a walk: white buildings reflecting on the lake; curious couples kissing; Michael Jackson’s music at the port; lively gangs of people chattering behind glass bars.
I have a drink in a fancy, low-lights bar, served by a Californian man who says my english is perfect, but I can’t say the same for his bartender skills. I lie to him. Great drink! Rum and ice blended with grapefruit, it tastes like raisin juice with salt.

My bed calls me and I hurry back to the hotel, my favourite so far.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 10
1 Eylül 2018 Cumartesi
🌬 14 °C
Yükseklik: 23 m
Norveç Litlenuvarden 60.417051, 5.4645660°25’1” N 5°27’52” E
1
Hiking Arnianipa and goodbye Bergen
1 Eylül 2018, Norveç ⋅ 🌬 14 °C
Cold cheeks and warm heart. I hear myself breathing and the wind running through the forest.
Goats nibbling.
My guide takes my pace, he’s smart and caring.
We reach the top and I can’t believe I made up here. With a headache, aching knees, sore feet and back pain, but I reach the top 🙏🏽

Goodbye Bergen!Okumaya devam et
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2.08.2019Yanıtla
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Gün 11
2 Eylül 2018 Pazar
⛅ 17 °C
Yükseklik: 7 m
Norveç Breiavatnet 58.968248, 5.73114458°58’6” N 5°43’52” E
The city of oil (Stavanger)
2 Eylül 2018, Norveç ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
I was expecting to meet the personification of an industrial swamp, with clubs and bars for oil workers’ amusement. But no. Stavanger has its own rich history way before oil changed the nation and the city forever (50% of the canned sardines were produced here! 🤣🤣).

The place is a stunning architectural beauty, by day and by night. I am ecstatic.

The oil museum shocks me thoroughly.. food for thoughts.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 12
3 Eylül 2018 Pazartesi 14:00
☀️ 21 °C
Yükseklik: 19 m
Norveç Hotel THON CECIL 59.913807, 10.73714859°54’50” N 10°44’14” E
A stroll in Oslo downtown
3 Eylül 2018, Norveç ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
I don’t understand Oslo. Is it a town? Metropolis? Does it have a modern spirt or is there a strong tradition?

Monarchy, social state, freedom of sexual orientation, formal manners, Renzo Piano parks and buildings, royal palace and ancient theatres, nature, vikings lore, stave churches..

I am pleasingly intrigued by this cognitive dissonance and wander around like a truffle-dog.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 12
3 Eylül 2018 Pazartesi 19:30
☀️ 20 °C
Yükseklik: 8 m
Norveç Norges Hjemmefrontmuseum 59.907612, 10.73456559°54’27” N 10°44’4” E
Oslo's port and The dinner
3 Eylül 2018, Norveç ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
That’s it, it was about the time. The dinner with capital letters: The Lobster. Mouthwatering specialty with butter and spices. Heavenly.

The view from the port is teasing me to visit other clefts of the sea shore: there is a castle, boats, walking sides, people biking and other restaurants in the proximity. Tomorrow.

Thank the Universe no tourist traps so far: authenticity runs through my veins as it’s all I had for drinks today.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 13
4 Eylül 2018 Salı
☀️ 19 °C
Yükseklik: 37 m
Norveç Frogner Park 59.926874, 10.70115659°55’37” N 10°42’4” E
The statues park (Vigelandsanlegget)
4 Eylül 2018, Norveç ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Vigeland’s park is a magic place: more than 200 statues in a wonderful outdoor location outside the city center.
Most of the statues are mysterious. The intention was to represent the lifecycle of human beings and I think of Munch.Okumaya devam et
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Gün 13
4 Eylül 2018 Salı
☀️ 19 °C
Yükseklik: 9 m
Norveç Tjuvholmen 59.908118, 10.72201559°54’29” N 10°43’19” E
Oslo off the main road
4 Eylül 2018, Norveç ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
There’s no separate bike lanes in most of Oslo. As a matter of facts there’s almost no bike trails at all. I find myself biking in a city that is not equipped for it: cobblestone streets, running along with cars that don’t respect your space, riding in pedestrian areas together with trolleys.

On my way back, I decide to go off the main roads and a whole new Oslo opens up.Okumaya devam et
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