Playa de Los Alemanes

I decided to bus/walk to Ranch Primicio, a giant tortoise reserve on private land, to save the taxi fare. Over 2 hours later, I arrived having wished I had spent the $15 on a taxi. I walked through some lava tunnels which were quietly spectacular. Big, solid, beautiful, echo-y, cool, and dark with water droplets coming through the cracks. Lava tunnels are where the surface lava in an eruption cools and solidifies in contact with the air, whilst the molten lava continues to flow beneath. Eventually the molten lava flows away, leaving these empty cave-like tunnels. I had a little sing to test the echos as I was the only one there. The giant tortoises living their best lives on the reserve were either eating, sleeping or laying in mud to warm up or cool down, I can't remember which!! They were majestic but not the most good looking of animals, it has to be said!

Las Grietas is a strip of sea water in a narrow space created when 2 tectonic plates separated, quite a while ago. Because of all the rubble below the sea level, no large marine life lives there... Just fish. Being there without the crowds, is like being in an underwater adventure movie.

I visited some more lava tunnels, los Túneles de Bellavista 1km long. I walked there too and followed a group of tourists on mountain bikes. Luckily I asked one slow coach where they were going. But it was a salt mine which didn't float my boat, nor was it where I was going and so I stopped following them. Smart, you are thinking. A random horse was galloping down the road alone. I asked the workmen in the street if that was normal, they said yes. I said, but it's dangerous....cars, roads, accidents. They agreed it was dangerous and laughed. I do wander what gets lost in translation, sometimes.

I went to Los Gemelos, two giant sink holes formed ages ago (probably millions of years) .... As I understand it, there was a hot spot under the lava tunnels which destabilised the structure and they collapsed. In and around this geological feature, is an extensive and rare forest of scalasia trees, covered in wispy, moss..... Which I think is not a good thing. But maybe it is. Do you get a picture of how I don't do my research thoroughly, or indeed, at all?

Another day boat trip was to Isla Pinzon. Two snorkeling spots where I saw sting rays, a white tip shark, barracuda, trumpet fish, parrot fish too name but a few. Visibility was amazing here and it felt like I was swimming in an aquarium. We had a fair few playful sea lions who wanted to swim amongst us and as long as we avoided the bulls, it's safe and fun. (No touching of course) .Read more