Ned and I live in the San Juan Islands in Washington State, about halfway between Seattle and Vancouver. Read more Washington, United States of America
  • Day 82

    Madrid: Last day in Spain

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Tomorrow we fly back to the US via Paris and JFK, so that makes today our last day in Spain and this our last entry in this journal. We’ve had a great 82 days. The Ruta del Argar took us to places we’ve never seen before in both coastal and inland Almeria; and we were able to walk in all three mountain sectors of the Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura, y Las Villas in Jaén. Many thanks for the camaraderie here from family, friends, and the people we met while walking. It made the trip delightful!Read more

  • Day 81

    Madrid: Exploring

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    On previous stopovers in Madrid, we’ve visited the Prado and Parque del Retiro, so this time we just wandered the streets trying to get a feel for some of the neighborhoods. Lavapies has small shops catering to many different cultures. Across the street from our apartment is a Vietnamese restaurant, and on the corner is a barbershop with signage in Arabic.

    As we drew closer to the Plaza Mayor, we heard more English than we have heard in the rest of the trip put together - far more! (In fact, other than a few words heard in the crowd on Easter Sunday in Lorca, I don’t remember hearing anyone speaking English up til today. )

    The Mercado de San Miguel was a feast for the eyes with stall after stall presenting artfully arranged tapas. Throngs of people were assembling a tapas lunch by combining their favorites. Most were priced at €1.50 to €10.00. Choices ranged from olive shish-kabobs to caviar.
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  • Day 80

    Córdoba to Madrid

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Ned loves trains, so riding on the brand new Iryo high-speed train from Córdoba to Madrid was a real treat. The train covered the 400 km trip in 2 hours, compared to the 4 hours it would take by car. The bright red Italian-produced carriages can travel at a top speed of 400 km per hour, but the highest we actually saw today was 277 km per hour.

    Our tiny Airbnb is in the multi-cultural section of the city known as Lavapies. Our apartment overlooks a central courtyard, so although all the streets around here are full of traffic and the noise level is pretty high, our own little space is totally quiet.
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  • Day 79

    Córdoba: Friends and the Feria

    May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We haven’t been to Spain for four years, so there was lot to catch up on when we met Fran, Ana, María, Celia, and Carmen for dinner. By pure chance, it was also the last day of the fair in Córdoba, so after dinner we walked across the Guadalquivir to the fairgrounds and saw the dancing, the 86 casetas, the light displays, and the music, all accompanied by explanations from Fran and Ana as to how the Córdoba feria differed from those in the other provincial capitals. It made for a festive ending to a special day filled with the very best of friendship and kindness.Read more

  • Day 78

    Ubeda to Córdoba

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Our 2.5 hour bus ride from Úbeda to Córdoba gave us plenty of time to reflect on what has and has not worked for us on this trip. A quick summary:

    Worked well:
    - The Tenacious Tape I brought in our mending kit. It repaired the rip I put in the knee of my only pair of trousers when I fell on the second day of walking, and it is still in perfect shape.
    - hand sanitizer for getting pine pitch out of trousers and off of pack surface.
    - Enlightened Equipment sleeping quilts with half-inch baffles - no cold spots
    - bike sun sleeves for me
    - Pacas socks made from alpaca wool - so soft they make walking a joy! Thanks, Diane!
    - Patagonia lightweight fleece pullovers
    - Ibex lightweight wool shirts
    - low-cut Lone Peak trail shoes for Ned
    - low-cut Brooks Divide trail shoes with lace keepers for me
    - the Decathlon poles we bought to replace our Black Diamond poles that BA didn’t deliver
    - super-lightweight EVA sandals (6 oz, $10 from Amazon)
    - Sunday Afternoon sun hat with neck cape
    - Apple Air Tags in luggage and valuables pouches

    Would have been nice to have:
    -fingerless bike gloves for me to protract the palms of my hands when I fell
    - stick sunscreen (it was in the mailing tube that British Airlines never delivered)
    - an ultralight 4 oz daypack for grocery shopping and walks around town. Could double as a stuff sack for the quilts.

    What didn’t work;
    - Tube sunscreen - always messy
    - our Lone Peak 6 mid-height trail boots gave both of us severe ankle problems, although we have loved the earlier versions of this hiking boot and have worn them on many previous trips
    - multi-focal prescription glasses; worked for me before cataract surgery, but contributed to my falls on this trip
    - long shoe laces without lace keepers; also contributed to falls
    - packing our poles in a mailing tube. Standard luggage would have been easier for the airline to deal with, and maybe they would have arrived at the same time we did.
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  • Day 77

    Ubeda: Exploring

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    We thought getting an early start this morning would guarantee us quiet, deserted streets for admiring the Renaissance buildings on the second half of our Wikiloc route around the city. But we ended up in a (delightful) traffic jam as a result of being in front of a large school at 8:50 with school starting at 9:00. There wasn’t an unoccupied inch of road or sidewalk. Brothers with backpacks; sisters with wheeled packs; dads hopping out of cars parked in front of fire hydrants to grab the hands of children before dodging across the street; moms pushing buggies while urging along stragglers; teens whistling to friends…we just backed up and stood still, taking it all in and missing our own teaching days quite a bit!

    After a morning of architectural enjoyment, we headed to the Centro de Interpretación del Olivar y el Aceite. What a gem! We never knew there were 260 different varieties of olive trees! The displays, videos, and samplings were a real treat after walking in sight of olive groves for over two months. Spain is the olive capital of the world, and the province of Jaén is the olive capital of Spain.

    Thanks to Bazar Fen, our replacement hiking poles are riding home in a duffel, not a mailing tube. Let’s hope the airlines have an easier time dealing with that common shape and don’t lose this set!

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ubeda-loo…
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  • Day 76

    La Platera to Úbeda

    May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We’ve been to Úbeda three times before on various trips and seen only the totally uninspiring polígono industrial as we’ve rushed from the EuropeCar rental office (to return the car we’ve driven from the Madrid airport to Andalucia) and the bus station (so we can get to the mountains and start walking). This time, we are staying right in the city center so we can see this UNESCO World Heritage site.

    Oh my, what a difference! We used a well-annotated city walking tour track we found on Wikiloc, and it had 21 waymarks for sights to see in just the first three kilometers! It took awhile to adjust to being in a city after the deserted villages we’ve been in for the past month, but then the wonder of the spectacular Renaissance buildings around every corner took hold. It’s such an incredible collection of nunneries, towers, monasteries, palaces, churches, noblemen’s homes with balconies just waiting for Romeo and Juliet, universities, narrow pedestrian streets, parks, gates, and city walls that it feels like being dropped into the middle of a ten-acre museum. Thank goodness we have another day to see the rest! Then it’s on to Cordoba to visit friends, and then to Madrid where we fly back to the US a week from today.

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ubeda-loo…
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  • Day 75

    La Platera: Hornos el Viejo

    May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Today was the first day in 75 days of walking in Andalucia that we had to change course to step around a puddle! It rained all night long and well into the morning, by far the longest-lasting rain we’ve had. Out on our walk, we met two ladies in the neighboring village of Hornos el Viejo who, when we mentioned “mucha lluvia anoche”, went to great lengths to vehemently tell us how good it was that it had rained. I’m guessing they thought we were clueless tourists who didn’t want our walking spoiled and didn’t realize how desperate the residents are for rain.

    The rain brought us some new sights and sounds: snails crossing the road amidst green bursts of moss and an hours-long symphony of birdsong from every turn of the path. In spite of the clouds, we had good views of La Platera from various angles. Our house is just outside the village, set off by itself with a lovely arbor at the back, and of course, the era and the acequia. Like all the cortijos around here, it’s a very large house, built to accommodate multiple generations. I think there are 12 bedrooms in all. These days it is rented out as six separate units ranging from a studio to three bedrooms (but Pedro says we are the only people here since Easter). It’s been a privilege to stay here and soak up the history of a way of life that hardly exists anymore, and with the exclamation point of the rain, quite a fitting last day to our weeks in the Sierra de Segura.

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
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  • Day 74

    La Platera: Collado de Montero

    May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    It’s cloudy today and every once in awhile, there are a few droplets that meander down from the sky, but there isn’t any outpouring of the kind that would nourish plants and animals. The frogs in the local water tank are happy, though.

    Our route today was in the best condition of all the dirt tracks we have walked in the last ten weeks. No ruts, no potholes, no excessive loose stones, no narrow sections - just a wide, well-graded track rising steadily from La Platera to the Collado de Montero. As such, it was a bit of a mystery. We kept asking each other why a track in such perfect condition was here. It didn’t lead anywhere important, so why was it so special that it even merited being here, much less being maintained in such stellar fashion? There was a barrier just beyond the village that could close off the track, but why? Ice or snow in the winter? Fire danger? On the way up it passed access roads into numerous olive groves, most so steep that the prints in the dirt were of tractors with tracks rather than tires. But orchard access wouldn’t account for such a fine track.

    At the pass, we could see lots of signs and thought maybe they would give us a clue. First set: trail markers, no clue. Second set: comunidad boundary markers, no clue. Third set (after another lockable barrier): a big sign with red letters announcing “Danger! Hunting Area”. Not the tame little black and white “coto privado“ signs you usually see. Aha!

    So we are guessing that either the Sociedad de Caza Arroyo Montero maintains the track to this high standard or they have a lot of influence on whatever other entity is responsible for the track. Either way, it provided a great route for us today!

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
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  • Day 73

    La Platera: La Laguna

    May 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We woke up this morning to drops of rain on the plants in the arbor, small puddles on the flagstones, and thick fog hiding the surrounding hills, but now, after a day of sunshine, everything is dried up again.

    Earlier this week, while combing through maps and tracks along the southern shore of the sprawling Embalse del Tranco that lies just below us, I kept finding references to a small lagoon. Pedro also mentioned this yesterday, saying that it was a source of salt, and that nearby was a particularly beautiful era whose floor was made with stones of various colors. This all sounded very intriguing, so we set out to explore that area this morning as soon as the fog lifted. When we reached the next aldea, El Carrascal, a dog followed us out of the village. We tried our hardest to get him to turn around and go home, but he insisted on staying with us throughout the entire day. It’s a good thing we were making a loop trip, or he would have ended up very far from home and very thirsty. The road along the edge of the embalse gave us colorful views, not only of the water, but also of forest glades followed by old olive groves with trees with very thick trunks. We found the lagoon, but were so distracted by our worries about the dog that we forgot to look for the era with the colored stones. On the way home, we decided to take a route for which we had no GPX track, but the trail showed clearly on the IGN map of Spain. It’s always a bit worrisome not to have a track to follow, but after a few wrong turns, we made it to an overlook with tremendous views of the entire area and felt quite happy that our adventure had turned out so well. In addition, our canine friend is now back in his home village. Whew!

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
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