Gedenkstätte und Museum Sachsenhausen

Die KZ ‚Gedenkstätte und Museum Sachsenhausen’ ist nur schwer verdaulich. Hier wird uns die Grausamkeit dieser dunklen Vergangenheit vor Augen geführt. Die Bilder, Berichte, Orte, Bauten undRead more
Die KZ ‚Gedenkstätte und Museum Sachsenhausen’ ist nur schwer verdaulich. Hier wird uns die Grausamkeit dieser dunklen Vergangenheit vor Augen geführt. Die Bilder, Berichte, Orte, Bauten und Filmaufnahmen wühlen auf, machen betroffen und schockieren uns. Wir diskutieren noch lange. Sind wir heute weiter? Würden wir anders handeln? Wie gehen wir mit Minderheiten um?Read more
# Deutsch
Oranienburg ist alles in allem durchschnittlich...nett aber nichts aussergewöhnliches. Ich habe mir vorallem die Namensgeberin der Stadt, die Oranienburg, angeschaut. Bewusst aussen vor gelassen habe ich die Gedenkstätte des KZ Sachsenhausen, das erste KZ der Nationalsozialisten, und der einzige Grund, weshalb die meisten Touristen überhaupt aus Berlin in dieses Städtchen kommen. Ich habe genug vom beinahe schon an "Dark Tourism" erinnernden Abklappern der Gedenkstätten, welche es in Deutschland wie Sand am Meer gibt.
# English
Oranienburg is all in all average...nice but nothing extraordinary. I mainly visited the town's namesake, the Oranienburg. I deliberately left out the Sachsenhausen concentration camp memorial, the first Nazi concentration camp and the only reason why most tourists come to this little town from Berlin. I've had enough of the almost "dark tourism" style of visiting memorials, which are a dime a dozen in Germany.Read more
We got up a bit earlier today for a very confronting but important tour to the former Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Although this was a hard day, we think it's really important to learn about these parts of history and remember the victims of the horrors of the past.
We met our tour guide (who happened to be an Aussie studying history in Berlin) at a nearby train station and made our way out to Sachsenhausen on two trains and a bus. The trip took about an hour and he explained a few things about concentration camps including the history of the Nazi party's rise to power following WWI. Germany was born out of militaristic origins and so when they experienced huge losses in WWI, the party blamed Germany's loss and economic position on the Jews (using them as a scape goat). Once the Great Depression happened there were 6 million unemployed Germans and so these people sought support in the Nazi party which grew to the largest party in Germany.
Our guide went into detail of Hilter's rise to power and the background in Germany. Specifically in relation to concentration camps, they were first constructed as a means to imprison political prisoners or opposers to the Nazi regime, and as history has shown were used for other means. There were over 44,000 concentration camps during the Holocaust. Sachsenhausen concentration camp started as a working/forced labour camp and the majority of the prisoners were imprisoned due to their political beliefs (though there was a large population which were imprisoned due to their status as Jews). It was the first concentration camp and was seen as a "model" for other camps. The violence at the camp increased over time as it became overpopulated and mass murders occurred in the 1940s at the camp through the use of the "neck shot unit" and later the gas chambers.
We don’t need to go into the detail of what we saw in the camp but it is certainly very moving. There are replicas of some of the barracks as well as the original foundations/remains of other buildings and the gas chambers at station Z. The old camp kitchen has been converted into the main exhibit where different artefacts and stories of the camp are displayed and the way that the Nazi's horrific methods of mass murder evolved over time.
Some may question why the camp has been restored, and this is summed up in an important quote by one of the survivors of the camp which says:
"And I know one thing more - that the Europe of the future cannot exist without commemorating all those, regardless of their nationality, who were killed at that time with complete contempt and hate, and who were tortured to death, starved, gassed, incinerated and hanged..."
After our tour, we boarded the bus and train together as a group back to Berlin and arrived back at the hostel around 4pm. We then decided to stay at the hostel for the rest of the afternoon.
Later, we headed out for pizza and beer for dinner - the waiter only spoke Italian so Daniel was forced to draw on his Italian to order dinner. Thankfully two pizzas and two beers is pretty easy to work out!Read more
Bem, domingo de manhã decidi levantar me bem cedo e ir até Oranienburg, para visitar o campo de concentração de Sachsenhausen. Comprei o almoço na estação e fui. Depois do comboio tive ainda de apanhar um autocarro para ir para lá. E depois caminhei 20 minutos sozinha, no meio de casinhas super queridas, super alemãs, ruas silenciosas e cheias de sol. E depois cheguei. Ao início nem estava a entender que era ali, porque a entrada é estranha, um portão meio aberto, entrei e comecei a ver mais pessoas. Tinha um pequeno museu sobre o campo, e depois segui por um corredor no meio da floresta. Até que cheguei às portas do campo. As portas dele havia um memorial aos mortos lá na floresta, cheio de lápides que comemoravam aqueles que lá foram mortos. Havia também uma casa cheia de vitrais, um monumento contra o fascismo. E depois a porta de ferro com as famosas palavras: "Arbeit macht Frei'. Entrar lá foi estranho, um arrepio subiu-me a espinha e um desconforto acumulou-se na minha coluna. Parecia que nem dava para respirar direito lá. Visitei tudo. As barracas que metade estavam perfeitamente preservadas e outra metade tinha exposições que explicavam a vida no campo. A prisão dentro do campo. A forca. A enfermaria onde se realizavam experiências médicas sem o consentimento dos pacientes. As câmaras de gás. Sachsenhausen funcionou desde 1936 até 1945 como campo nazi, principalmente como campo de treino para os membros das SS, que iam lá para aprender o que fazer quando fossem enviados para outros campos. Depois da guerra foi até 1950 um campo soviético, um acampamento especial. De 1936 a 45 morreram lá 50 mil pessoas, incluindo um dos filhos de Estaline. A operação Bernhard foi feita lá, em que os nazis obrigaram os judeus a produzir milhares e milhares de dólares e libras esterlinas. Diz se que na altura chegaram a produzir 4 vezes o valor dos cofres ingleses. Mas isto não estava mencionado em lado nenhum do campo. Contudo os horrores sofridos por polacos, judeus, homossexuais, opositores do regime e ciganos estava. Foi uma experiência importante, eu sinto. É importante relembrar os horrores que aconteceram para evitar que se repitam. Estive lá dentro quase 4 horas e depois voltei para apanhar o autocarro.Read more
Busy day - the small matter of 60 miles but needing to leave time enough to absorb the horror that is the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp. Also wanted to stop off at Spandau Citadel and the Olympic Stadium. A lot to cram in. Helped that the first 30 was a pretty dull affair - both weather and flat & boring. So just got my head down & got to the memorial centre just before 11. In fairness they've handled something unspeakably bad pretty well - don't charge, range of media, English translations everywhere. However it was horrendous to read about - the photos and the stories just were so hard. Glad to have done it but not something necessarily to be recommended.Read more
Dimanche, 2 juillet 2023
Près de 400km d'autoroute sont au programme aujourd'hui. Comme c'est dimanche, nous avançons bien. Une pause McDonald's s'impose sur la hauteur de Bitterfeld. Le dernier tronçon de route devait nous amener à notre lieu d'étape en contournant Potsdam et Berlin. Que nenni; il y a des bouchons et nous traversons Berlin du sud au nord. Sportif, comme d'habitude! Nous arrivons vers 15h à Oranienburg où une belle aire pour cc au Schlosshafen nous attend. Une petite promenade le long de la Havel, voie navigable, que nous longeons jusqu'au château de la fondatrice du lieu, Louise Henriette, princesse von Oranien, et son magnifique parc.Read more
Today was cold, eerie, and windy, with a constant flurry. Normally, I would say it was a miserable day but today I can only be grateful for the amazing life I live and those who fought to defend a right to that life. Today we visited Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp.
We arrived by train on the same tracks that prisoners would almost a hundred years ago. There was no bus or nice car to drive us, just the same rough streets that so many had taken, through the small town, to the entrance of the camp about a mile away. People sat in their houses, warm, watching us walk by just as many people sat in those same houses watching prisoners walking by on their way to almost certain death.
Sachsenhausen is a unique camp. It was one of the first in the SS concentration camp system and was considered a model camp. Every aspect of it was meticulously designed to be efficient. While it isn’t as well known as camps like Dachau and Auschwitz, Sachsenhausen served as the headquarters and training ground for the SS concentration camp system. After the end of World War II, Sachsenhausen was taken over by the USSR where it continued to be used for several more years as a concentration camp.
After completing the 20-minute walk, we arrived at the entrance road. We were greeted by three models that showed the scale of the camp at its height during WWII. Most of it had been leveled by the GDR but what remained was extremely powerful. It was a long stone path that stretched along one side of the perfectly triangular prison camp. To the right was a brightly colored hall for the concentration camp workers and to the left a tall stone wall with towers guarding it.
After the short walk, a simple iron gate appeared on our left which was the entrance to the camp. Every prisoner who entered Sachsenhausen walked through that same gate. After passing through the gate we entered a beautiful wooded area with a couple of buildings. This area was for the commanders and would have been beautifully decorated. This section was renowned for its flower gardens and overall beauty. This would be the prisoners' last sight before entering the harsh reality of the camp.
As we approached the tall inner guard tower of the prisoners' camp it was clear how everything would change. The size and depth of the camp were overwhelming. From up in the guard tower, we could see every inch of the camp as it was designed when being built. Every building was perfectly laid out in rows of semicircles stretching all the way to the tip of the triangle. Immediately in front of us was the roll call area. As we stood there listening to a recording about the area, we were shivering from the lack of sun and blistering wind. We looked at each other, bundled up for the winter yet shivering, and could not fathom how anyone could stand out here for hours on end for roll call and other activities. Through the gates of the tower, we could see the beauty of the inner section that would have been just out of reach for prisoners less than a hundred years before us.
Wrapping around the wall that formed the triangle was several layers of security which prisoners coined “Death-Strip”. This consisted of barbed wire, an electric fence, followed by a stone wall. But even more deadly was about 3 feet of beautifully laid gravel. Any prisoner, who took one step on the gravel, would be shot instantly with no questions asked. From the roll call area, we could see the empty rectangles laid out in perfect symmetry where over 50 barracks would have stood. Today most of them had been leveled, but a couple still remained.
As we walked over to the barracks, it was clear the ground was not even and contained lots of strips of different types of gravel in stone. These walkways were used as testing grounds where prisoners would be forced to walk 30 km a day to test out new types of boots and materials for soldiers. Inside the tight barracks we the original bunks, bathrooms, and washrooms. They were tiny and we couldn’t fathom how hundreds of people were crammed into these tiny quarters, yet many would consider this the place of relief from the manual labor.
Inside the prisoners camp was a prison that had 80 cells. Each of the cells was equipped with covers for the windows that would deprive any light from entering. Some prisoners were held in the darkness of solitary confinement for months at a time. While walking the grounds we also toured the prison kitchen, laundry facilities, and performance hall, where prisoners who had talents would come to perform for their captors in the hope of extra rations.
Towards the end of our journey through the grounds, we came upon an area next to the industrial yards in which the prisoners worked. Around the corner, hidden from view was a trench lined with wood full of holes. This was the execution trench, where thousands of prisoners were shot and killed by the SS and USSR. Sachsenhausen did not have gas chambers until the very end of the war when a very small one was constructed for special cases, so the trench was the main method of execution for those that didn’t die from other causes. Right next to it was the crematorium that was built on-site. It started with one burner but three more were added to keep up with the backlog of bodies.
As were walking, mounds of ground were everywhere labeled “Ashes of Prisoners”. These mounds consisted of thousands of prisoners' ashes that had mixed together and buried throughout the compound.
As our day came to an end something had been made clear to us throughout the process. Most of the buildings were gone. There were statues and memorials throughout the site, but they seemed off. The prisoners looked happy in many. This was because the original memorial to this ground had been made by the GDR, German Democratic Republic. It was clear the GDR wanted to hide a lot of the history that had occurred on the site and reshape the memorial to benefit the government at that time. In fact, the ground went on to be used for many ceremonies and banquets for the GDR during the late 20th century until the fall of that government.
The memorial today tries to piece together what is left from the different eras: SS, USSR, and GDR control but shows the power of what propaganda can do. As the sun set, we walked out of the gates with freedom. As the snow began to fall, we began to retrace our steps back to the station where it all began. Outside the entrance of the camp, the street split in two. To the right was a sign which signified the road from Sachsenhausen, which started the path to one of the many death marches. A lot of these prisoners, who were detained for characteristics and religion, never got to walk out of that gate. Many that did, took the split in the road to the right, to start their march to continued misery and hurt. We got to take the road to the left, to freedom, to life, to safety, to peace. Within an hour we were back at the hotel, in the warmth, with as much food and water as we wanted. How grateful we ought to be.Read more
After the slightly saddening walking tour yesterday, we decided to go full on losing-faith-in-humanity mode with a tour of Sachsenhausen concentration camp. This was one of the main concentration camps used by the Nazis, but you don't hear about it as much as others because instead of being liberated by the Allies, it was liberated and reused by the Soviets for their own political prisoners. The former administration for all concentration camps and the SS training buildings were nearby too.
Sachsenhausen was a sort of experimental camp, where, in addition to various "medical experiments" testing the various limits of human bodies (oxygen deprivation, freezing, drugs, ...), they experimented with more efficient ways to lay out the camp (fanning out from a central point so a mounted machine gunner could see everywhere), and ways of killing people (an elaborate fake health check-up so they could efficiently shoot non-resisting people and minimise traumatising the shooter).
I think it was the methodical planning and efficiency for murdering and torturing people that really got to me after a while. It was kind of disturbing, but will definitely be something I remember and appreciate having seen.Read more
Foltermethoden (Zeichnungen von Inhaftierten) und Propaganda.
Heute habe ich endlich die letzte Hürde auf dem Weg zu meinem großen Abenteuer genommen, das B2 Visum für den Langzeitaufenthalt in den USA ist „revisioned and approved“.
Der Weg dahin war ziemlich aufwendig. Ich danke allen, die mir geholfen haben. Angefangen von der Ausfüllung des Onlinefragebogens , die Passfotoerstellung über die Terminbuchung bis zum heutigen Interview.
Früh um 6.30 Uhr ging es mit dem Auto zum Termin in die Clayallee 1 70 zur amerikanischen Konsularabteilung. Eine andere Möglichkeit gab es auch gar nicht. Erstens lief noch der Lokführerstreik und zweitens dürfen keinerlei elektronische Geräte mit in das Konsulatsgebäude gebracht werden, einschließlich Smartphone und Smartwatch. Nachdem mich mein Auto-Navi an diversen Staus vorbei geleitet hatte, erreichte ich 7.30 Uhr glücklich das Ziel. Ein Parkplatz in einer nahen Seitenstraße war schnell gefunden. Vorbei an hohen, mit Kameras gespickten Zäunen, gelangte ich zum Eingang des Gebäudes. Eine halbe Stunde vor Öffnung des Konsulats warteten dort schon etwa 10 Personen auf den Einlass. Eine Mitarbeiterin liess dann jeweils 3 Personen in das Gebäude eintreten. Dort wartete dann eine Personen- und Sachkontrolle a la Flughafen auf mich. Mein Autoschlüssel musste ich abgeben und bekam dafür eine Pfandkarte. Durch schwer gesicherte Türen ging es in der Dreiergruppe in einen anderen Gebäudetrakt. Dort empfing uns eine Einweiserin, eine untersetzte typische „black female officer“. Nun gab es 5 Schalter mit Fenstern zum anstellen. Schalter 1 : Anmeldung mit Pass und Abgabe des Passfotos. Schalter 2 & 3 : Abgeben der Fingerabdrücke von beiden Händen. Schalter 4 & 5 : das eigentliche Interview. Dort fragte mich ein älterer Beamter auf englisch nach dem Zweck meiner Reise. Ich sagte „I want to hike on the pacific crest trail“. Er „oh beautiful“. Dann murmelte er noch etwas von „approaved“ und „ten days“, warf meinen Pass in eine Kiste und wünschte mir viel Glück. Die nette Einweiserin fragte mich noch ob ich Erfolg gehabt hätte und wies mir den Weg nach draussen. Ich konnte es gar nicht fassen, alle meine vorbereiteten Unterlagen (Appointment Confirmation, Gehaltsbescheinigung, Flugtickets, PCT-Permit) brauchte ich letztlich nicht vor zeigen. Ein einziger Satz im Interview reichte für die Erteilung des B2 Visums !Read more
Traveler Bürokratie check! Wir freuen uns für dich!!! Hast du denn schon deine Ausrüstung zusammen? Liebe Grüße aus Seibelsdorf
Traveler Hallo Sebastian, ich wundere mich, dass Du meinen Beitrag schon gelesen hast. Ich war ja noch gar nicht fertig… Zu Deiner Frage : Nein es fehlen noch einige Kleinigkeiten. Dabei könnte ich Deine Hilfe gebrauchen. Ich rufe Dich bald mal dazu an…
Traveler Herzlichen Glückwunsch. Nun steht ja Deinem großen Abenteuer nichts mehr im Wege. Ich werde jeden Tag auf Deine spannende Berichte warten & Dich dann hoffentlich am 21.08. in Vancouver gesund und sehnsüchtig in die Arme schließen.
Traveler Es ist das zweite Mal diese Woche, dass ich diesen Satz lesen musste. Sebastian schickte ihn aus Theresienstadt. Es ist wichtig, dass wir uns an diese Gräueltaten erinnern, um wach zu bleiben.