Spain Cirueña

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  • Day 14

    Walking solo

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    So, the profound difference between walking with someone and walking alone is really coming into focus. Today I found myself in a good conversation with a guy from Germany that probably lasted about an hour, but that is very much the exception, so far. Several people along the way have spoken very strongly of the benefit of walking alone and how much they prefer it after doing both.

    I am not inclined to compare them that way. My first Camino was so amazing - I would not change a single thing about it. I remember worrying early on that the amount of social interaction I was having was going to detract from the experience somehow, only to learn that for me it was a needed corrective, and ultimately a great source of joy.

    Now I’m having the Camino I imagined then. I’m only nine days in so maybe there are some bigger social connections ahead for me, but my growing sense right now is that there will not be, and I’m good with that. It’s early days but the - how do I even express it - the interior space that begins to - unfold? open? deepen? is more and more felt. I’m probably trying to talk about it too soon, hence the word finding trouble, but it’s what I’ve been walking with today.

    On a more down to earth level, I had a fairly long walk today that went well. Hi again though! Tomorrow is longer, and the last third is mostly uphill, but it’s supposed to be about 10 degrees cooler, so that will be nice.

    Today I revisited a church in a town famous for a story from the Middle Ages that involving a young man falsely accused of theft and hung during the pilgrimage. He was walking with his parents who continued on, brokenhearted. On their return they found him still hanging but miraculously alive. They ran to the town official and told him this. He was about to eat his roast chicken dinner and he told them their boy was as dead as the chicken on his plate, at which point the chicken leapt to its feet. The boy was cut down and released, and to this day two chickens are always housed in the Cathedral. See video evidence below.

    Tonight I am in a smaller albergue with exactly one other person, an Italian guy. Seems nice, not creepy at all, but if I disappear, his name is Duelio. Kidding! Not actually worried at all. It’s very nice to be in such a as quiet space for a change. And dinner was great!
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  • Day 12

    Building Roads, Building Connections

    July 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    The city I walk to today is San Domingo de la Calzada (literally St. Dominic of the road) it holds the remains of St. Dominic who was an engineer who built many of the roads and bridges along the Camino. He helped to make so many connections between pilgrims over the centuries through his work.

    My road on the Camino today had me building a few connections. Early this morning I met Mariah. I ran into her yesterday briefly as well. She was lost and couldn’t find the signs for the Camino. The same was true today. I use an app that shows my location and the path ahead in case I’m ever unsure. I joined her and walked with her for the first few miles to breakfast.

    Mariah (pictured in the photos of this post) is 71 years old!!!! She is from Holland and walked all the way from Holland to where she is now and plans to continue to Santiago!!! Not only that but she carries everything with her (I have most of my stuff transported to my next location by comparison). Her pace was far quicker than mine but she decided to slow down to enjoy the company. I’m so amazed by her physical ability.

    She also has a warm heart. She’s a retired teacher for two years. She worked with special needs children and you can tell by her demeanor that she takes the time to understand the people she worked with. That was also true about the people of her life. Mariah had been married a few times, had four children, but said she’s never been successful with her relationships. Yet, she still remains friendly with her ex-partners. I shared with her that to understand the flaws of her partners and to be able to maintain a friendly relationship was successful. She enjoys time with her grown children and friends. And she’s only ever taken a plane once- to England. And she doesn’t have a drivers license (I joked that she didn’t need one, she just walks everywhere!) 😆

    After lunch I ran into three generations of a family doing this segment of the Camino (also pictured) . Grandparents, their grown children, and the one child’s children (3 kids ages 6 and below!!!). They were a riot to watch. We shared a rest stop and got to chatting. The ex-fiancé of the father of the young kids also was with them. I assumed one of the children may have been between the ex-finance and the young father. I told them that I have a similar situation in my family. It was beautiful to see them all together.

    The young couple with kids live in New Zealand but grew up in England where the grandparents and ex-fiancé still reside. They got caught in New Zealand visiting the wife’s family when COVID happened. They’ve stayed ever since and said it’s a great place to raise children. They live 20 minutes from the literal shire of the Lord of the Rings and said they go walking there all the time. I freaked out and said my kids would LOVE that! Ha! So would I! Two of the three kids took to me quickly and riddled me with their attention. The parents and grandparents had a laugh and said they were happy to have a sitter for a while. I only walked briefly with them and continued on (they had many frequent stops along the way).

    Both experience brought a bit of joy to my day and a boost to my walk.
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  • Day 9

    Day 8 walking!

    May 16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    The Albergue is very quirky and run by Pedro with a 13 year old rescue dog and a cat that snuggles up to the dog, very cute!
    Pedro made us all individual omelette for breakfast, and guessing he’s either a retired priest or lay preacher, as he put his hand on our heads individually and blessed us on our way. Also at a previous Albergue, the host Eleena rang a bell as we left and rang it and waved until we were out of sight. Some very kind hosts.
    Today’s first part of the walk was mostly down hill with undulating country side and cool breeze. We stopped for break in Santo Domingo which had beautiful cathedral. Here sadly my friend Sarah had to leave us and get a bus back as on early flight out tomorrow, and now we are two again.
    The rest of the day we walked through various small hamlets all with lovely churches, and rolling countryside but often alongside the N-120 main road, so apart from some encouraging beeps from truckers (?!) the traffic and road made the walk noisy and little dull. The final stretch is always the hardest but we made it to the Albergue after about 26 Km …. Shorter distance planned for tomorrow!
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  • Day 11

    St Domingo de la Calzada

    September 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    What a great day! Kind of a triple header off a famous stop, a really nice albergue, and a really, really good meal.

    It’s famous because of a story of a miracle involving a false accusation, a hanging, and the month long survival of the hanged man, culminating in the local official, when hearing of it, saying that the man was as alive as the chickens that were just them being served to him. At which point they both came to life. For centuries a pair of chickens has always lived in the local cathedral to commemorate the miracle, attributed to St. Domingo.

    After two 28 Km days today was shorter, maybe 21? We got into town fairly early and discovered that our albergue was just extra nice, with footbaths to soak your feet in cold water and other amenities, like bags of olives, and beers in the vending machines. The self-serve laundry hand washing area was very nice too. Also the cathedral to explore, chickens and all, and a big clock tower with nine large bells.

    I was in a celebratory mood and noticed a Michelin rated restaurant close to the cathedral. Morgan and I are with our friends David and Ollie. It was fabulous! A really fun night. We barely made it back too the albergue by the 10:00 PM curfew! Which is why yesterday’s adventure is only now being reported.
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  • Day 11

    Von Cirueña nach Viloria de Roja

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Im Moment übernachte ich eher in den kleinen Orten unterwegs und weniger in den vorgeschlagenen Etappenzielen. Es sind eher noch authentische Pilgerherbergen dort anzutreffen! So gibt es heute hausgemachte Paella auf Spendenbasis!Read more

  • Day 16–17

    Azorfa to Santo Domingo

    April 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Some breakfast at Rioja Alta Golf Club. ⛳️ Quick stop for Cafe con leche. The entire neighborhood was like a ghost town on the golf course. Hundreds of condos, with a handful of owners. Clearly built at least ten years ago...but then the real estate crashed. Now they sit empty with huge amenities vacant.

    The rest of the day I was low energy and couldn't bring myself up. Until we crossed over this beautiful hill in Ciruina and it reminded me that there are messages every day. Each step is important.
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  • Day 14

    Ventosa to Ciruena 25km 7hrs

    September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Todd walked the entire way today. He started with Claire and Cecile. I took a taxi 10km to Najera to get my blisters looked at in a medical clinic. Of course, it was a holiday in that village and the clinic was closed. Seems like there is always a holiday in Spain. My feet were feeling better after a good nights sleep so I decided to attempt to walk the remaining 15km with Todd and the others. We met up in Najera and we kept on walking. Met a lovely mother and daughter from Vancouver and walked with them for some of the way.
    On our way to our albergue in Ciruena we walked through a golf course community which seemed quite deserted. Then we came across a little path to our very cute albergue, Virgin de Guadeloupe. Our host was a tad eccentric but good natured and fun and a great cook.
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  • Day 14

    Day 11 - Azofra to Grañon

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    At a glance:
    Cultural highlight: going to mass in a church, sleeping in a church, eating in a church, having a ceremony in a church with 40 others.
    Food highlights: Risotto cooked by Michael
    Kilometres walked: 21.72k
    # of steps: 28,756
    Elevation gain: 210m

    We have continued to have good walking weather--breezy ambient temperatures. Today was rolling hills of wheat and barley and no grape vines.
    We finished in Grañón in a church hospital for pilgrims.
    It is a donotavito albergue. Our donations feed tomorrow's pilgrims.
    As we register the hospitalio asks us if we can be the chief chef. We look horrified and suggest we are better being told what to do.
    Michael is here too. He volunteers to be the head chef.
    All 40 of us help. The team of 4 Italian bicyclists are experts with a knife. The 3 young women are born salad makers. Trudy chops tomatoes, carrots, peaches, potatoes, whatever came her way.
    I suddenly remember our 2nd night, at Roncesvalles waiting to be let into the dinning room. I had noticed 3 young women in front of us and when the door finally opened a young man quickly placed himself near them so he would be placed at a table with them (and us plus a few others). That young man was Michael and the 3 women were now making salad. There are 20 of us sleeping on mattresses on the floor. We have a private door from our sleeping room into the loft overlooking the pews, altar and gilt carvings. We just spent an hour each of us, one at a time holding a candle saying a few words on our Camino experience before passing the candle to the next person. Now we sleep. Ricardo introduces himself as we slip into our respective sleeping systems. He gives me permission to push him if he snores. It's nice to know who you are sleeping with.
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  • Day 16

    Santo Domingo

    October 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Im going to push past the stop to the next town of Grañon. It's another 6k in the rain so hopefully I can make it there before it really begins to pour.

    Randomly met a dude from San Diego. I forget his name but he was cool to talk to between Cireque and santo.Read more

  • Day 10

    Stage 9 - along the way

    April 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    It was a shorter walk today - just over 20km - but the weather was warming up considerably so it made it feel a bit harder. We all got a bit sunburned (the Camino tan is always more on the left hand side as we’re walking west) and hilariously my hand has a very clear walking pole strap mark! I seem to have escaped much else so far, thanks perhaps to my scarf and hat.

    Walked through a weird town where there was nobody about apart from the few people at the golf club as we entered, where we had lunch. It felt like an eerie zombie town and we joked a lot about it on the way through.
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