France
Arrondissement de Troyes

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    • Day 3

      Von Mesnil nach Chateauroux

      September 15, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Nachdem ich heute alles nass einpacken musste, extrem feucht in der Nacht gewesen, am See vorbei zur Relais Station zuerst gut frühstücken. Calimoto führt mich über die schönsten Nebenstrecken und durch viele schöne kleine Dörfer. In Bagneux la Fosse musste ich einen Stop bei einem Champagner Produzenten einlegen, bei dem wir vor 8 Jahren mit den Pferden Unterkunft gefunden haben. Kurz ein Schwätzchen mit Frau Virey gehalten, Gilles ist in der Lese, und weiter geht es über Melisey wo wir auch schon genächtigt haben. Hier ist die Zeit komplett stehen geblieben, alles genauso wie vor 8 Jahren. Ich sehe mich förmlich am Frühstückstisch sitzen🙈. Danach verlasse ich die Champagne und wechsele in die Bourgogne. In Tonnere nur tanken, nicht wie üblich Essen oder übernachten. Mittag mache uch in der Landschaft an einem Aussichtspunkt. 3 Ecken weiter ein schönes Restaurant direkt an der Yonne, bin leider schon satt.
      Calimoto hält sich konsequent an die Nebenstraßen das ich auf den 335km heute nur 4 Motorräder zu sehen bekam. Gefühlt eh nur alle 20 Minuten ein Fahrzeug zu sehen. Nachdem der Planet unablässig von oben brannte, bin ich froh um 17.00 mein Ziel Chateauroux erreicht zu haben. Schnell das nasse Zelt aufbauen, jetzt trocknet noch alles und ab ins See Restaurant den Ersten Durst stillen🍻
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    • Day 2

      Über Varennes nach Mesnil..

      September 14, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      Heute perfekt Strecken bis nach Varennes de Argonne gehabt. Dort lecker gegessen um dann weiter in die Champagne zu kommen. Das schlimmste was es für Motorradfahrer gibt. Montags schon sehen wer Freitags zu Besuch kommt, Kurven nur wenn es sich gar nicht vermeiden lässt und Dörfer in den man weder einkaufen noch essen kann. Kein Wunder das sich die Bevölkerung ausschließlich mit Weizen und Alkohol beschäftigt. Bei Vitry les François einen fast trockenen Kanal entdeckt bei dem man gar nicht mehr schleusen muß 😰. Jetzt in Mesnilbauf einem netten CP wo uch den Abend verbringen werde. Gerade einen Pastis bestellt und einen Eimer Pastis bekommen. Danach geh ich ins Bett😂🙈. Morgen geht es weiter bis Chateauroux 🌞Read more

    • Day 40

      Troyes

      June 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Today we left behind the crowds of Paris and headed into the farmlands and vineyards of the Champagne region. The villages and wheat fields were picture perfect and looked just like the Tour de France. We made good progress - parts of the road had a speed limit of 130kmh.

      Our first stop was the ancient town of Troyes. The town dates from Roman times, but a fire in 1524 destroyed the town and it was rebuilt over the next century.

      The central and old part of Troyes was what you would imagine an old French village to look like. As we were in Champagne, there was only one drink that would make sense for lunch, so of course we had one. The chocolate lshops and bakeries were also pretty special as well.
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    • Day 15

      Day 15: Lucerne to Troyes

      September 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Today Matt and I said uf Widerluege to the Cambeys as we set off to drive across France - West to East. We trained it to Mulhouse, just inside the French border, then picked up Fifi; our pearly lavender Fiat rental car for the next four days - Matt was delighted when he saw her! We almost didn't get her as French law says you need an international licence (which Matt had) and a physical licence from your own country (which Matt didn't have; he had his licence on his phone. but this wasn't acceptable). The French Avis lady was amazing - she must have seen the look of panic on Matt's face and disappointment on mine - and allowed us to take Fifi. We set google maps for Troyes, avoiding tolls and highways...and you should have seen the back lanes, alleyways and one way streets we went on. Matt did an amazing job of driving a manual on the wrong side of the road and after driving through the Champagne region of France, we arrived at Troyes mid-afternoon. Troyes is a medieval town with no less than 12 gothic churches - so you can guess what we did when we got there! Our accommodation was in a building dating back to the 16 hundreds with sloping ceilings and wonky floors - perfect!Read more

    • Day 20

      Troyes

      June 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      TREUES - so sagten wir auf früheren Reisen häufig. Schon wieder - und ließen den Ort links oder rechts liegen. Wir sprachen die Orte immer deutsch aus. Ich gab Troyes heute ganz bewusst ein, um keinesfalls auf der Autobahn mitten durch Paris zu landen. Unterwegs dachte ich an meine Französischlehrerin von der VHS. Sie kam aus dieser Stadt und beschrieb sie als sehenswert. Spontan einen Umweg gemacht. Sie hat recht. Sehr schön hier. Gerade mache ich eine Pause und esse einen Salat. Dann wird das eigentliche Ziel angesteuert.Read more

    • Day 25

      Dienville 12 miles

      August 6, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      There is a wise old saying about being careful what you wish for. Last night I was looking for a little excitement just to give me something to write. Well it came, and in the most unlikely of ways.

      I was kept awake last night by a ticking clock on the wall. No problem I thought. Just take the battery out and all would be well. Reached up to take it off the wall and it promptly fell onto my nose. No damage to the clock but my nose is not improved. No more selfies for a while just in case there are children reading.

      Speaking of excitement I was most concerned about last night’s toilet. (Bet you weren’t expecting that). This thing was electric. Haven’t come across anything like it since Japan. At least in Japan there were instructions so you had an idea what might happen. This thing just had 2 buttons. Now I am quite nervous about the combination of electricity, water and my bare backside. I made sure I was well away before I pressed one button at random. Made the usual flushing noise. All good. But then came this much louder, grinding noise. What on earth was it doing? Cancel that. I don’t want to know. But I sure as hell wasn’t going to press that during the night. Would have woken the neighbourhood.

      I now have the answer to one of the most pressing questions of the century. I am not sure I should just share it with all of you. Who knows who might be reading this and the use that could be made of the information. Oh well, if you insist. It’s this. You know those wee tubes of toothpaste you can get as a freebie at the dentist? 15ml apparently. Well they last 25 days with careful use. So if you and your better half are away for a week’s holiday you will be fine but don’t try and get 2 weeks out of it. Won’t work.

      Camping tonight, therefore no electricity, so I was forced to take 2 hours over an avocado chicken burger and a litre of sparkling water. But footprint done and phone fully charged. Off to my tent now for another night wriggling about on that tiny blow-up mattress. What fun.

      This is as close as I am likely to come to glamping. One of their glamping tents is not being used tonight so I am allowed to pitch my wee tent on that pitch. But not allowed to use the shack that presumably has their toilet etc. I wonder if it’s electric?
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    • Day 16

      Chambre d'hôtes nr. 2

      September 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Voorspoedige reis gehad. Halverwege had ik een stop gepland in Montmarault voor benzine en de Carrefour. En omdat ik toch ruim op schema lag, even langs het stationnetje gereden van Sylvia en Cor waar we in 2015 een heerlijke maand hebben doorgebracht. Tot mijn verrassing bleken zij echter de boel te hebben verkocht en terug te zijn gekeerd naar Nederland. Destijds waren ze erg negatief over NL en blij in Frankrijk te wonen en werken. Misschien hoor ik nog eens waarom ze alsnog van gedachten zijn veranderd. Huidige eigenaar was net zo negatief trouwens. Benieuwd wanneer hij terugkeert. 😂

      Onderweg even een sanitaire stop bij circuit Magny Cours.

      Om een uur of vijf was ik bij de chambre d'hôtes in Charmont-sous-Barbuise. De eigenaresse was er nog niet. Na een minuut of 20 wachten maar eens onder de bloempot gekeken en ja, hoor. Zet dat dan in de instructies!

      Maar goed, prima plek en brandschoon. Het onthouden waard. Nog even lekker buiten in de zon gezeten.
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    • Day 24

      Chavanges 15 miles

      August 5, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

      There are days like today when writing this diary is not easy. It was just another day in the life of a pilgrim which is probably a lot more limited and routine than the life of all those reading this. I got up. Didn’t have breakfast (because none was available). Started walking. It rained a bit as it has almost every day so far. It was sunny for a bit as it has almost every day so far. Some of it was muddy etc, on roads etc, through fields etc. you get the picture.

      The only remote thing of interest I passed all day was a 16th Century half-timbered church which claims to be the largest such church in the Champagne region. Mmm.

      Staying tonight in another chambre d’hote place. I do find these a little strange. A sort of bed and breakfast cum Airbnb. Sometimes they are just a simple room, usually en-suite, in the host’s house and other times a large apartment with full kitchen, dining room and living room but in the latter case there might well be other families occupying the apartment as well. Tonight was the simple room and I had been able to arrange an evening meal. But of course I had no idea what this meal might consist of. Was given a very small quiche with a wee bit of salad and some bread. Was that it? No other cutlery. Would have been rude to ask even if my schoolboy French let me. Turned out it was a starter and the main was a dod of meat and some mashed mixed veg. A lot nicer than it looked.

      All finished and back in my room. Get this written and teeth done and off to bed by 9pm. Another day done.

      Beyond my writing skills to make it any more exciting than that. Very sorry. We have all got a long way still to go!
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    • Day 46

      Das 300 Jahre alte "Waschhaus"

      March 17 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Unsere heutige Fahrt führte uns auf nicht ganz der Hälfte der Strecke zunächst nach Tonnerre, einer gut 4.000 Seelen zählenden Gemeinde in der Region Bourgogne-Franche-Comté. Inzwischen ist es ja nichts mehr neues, dass man in den französischen Orten den Eindruck hat, in längst vergangene Zeiten zurück gekehrt zu sein, aber Tonnerre wirkte noch mal ne Spur "abgewrackter", was aber ein wirklich faszinierendes Erlebnis ist. Spektakulär allerdings war die Karstquelle Fosse Dionne. Benannt nach der keltischen Quell-Göttin "Divona", war dieser Quelltopf der Anlass für die Besiedlung des Gebietes und die Entstehung der Stadt Tonnerre. Die Quelle wurde bereits lange als Waschplatz genutzt, bevor 1758 eine überdachte Umrandung gebaut wurde. Im Durchschnitt schüttet das Naturwunder 311 Liter, und in niederschlagsreichen Zeiten bis 3000 Liter pro Sekunde(!) hervor.
      Nachdem wir uns noch die (wie immer und üblich) für den Ort sehr groß dimensionierte Kirche Saint-Pierre de Tonnerre, die hoch über den schiefen und engen Dachfirsten der uralten Häuser ragt, angeschaut hatten, gab es noch einen Croque Monsieur auf die Hand und die Fahrt ging weiter. Auch bei wolkenverhangenem Himmel war eine schöne Landschaft zu sehen und einige Dörfchen, Felder und Wiesen später kamen wir in Arcis-sur-Aube an. Die nordfranzösische Gemeinde an der Aube bietet uns heute unseren Stellplatz für die Nacht.
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    • Day 23

      Saint-Remy-en-Bouzemont 13 miles

      August 4, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Leisurely breakfast as I only had 13 miles to do and the next place didn’t want folk until after 4pm. Left at 10am as there didn’t seem much point in hanging about. Weather nice enough to merit the sun tan lotion application. Came upon a bench in the shade where I chilled out for an hour over a long phone call. Also came to an open boulangerie at lunchtime. Just about a first so had to nip in for a quiche and strawberry tart. Rude not to. Threatened more rain in the afternoon but didn’t really come to much.

      Arrived at this pilgrim’s refuge just after 4pm as requested. Phoned the key holder who let me in. Possibly used to be part of the girl’s school. Bunk beds but I seem to be the only occupant. I think it is a Covid hangover but they only give an incredibly flimsy paper sheet and pillowcase. Absolutely single use only. Not as uncomfortable as you would think. Note in the property to say that the local community have provided this pilgrim accommodation and a donation would be welcome.

      Unusually there was a local grocer but basic supplies only. Hence tea of Knor packet soup and a kebab roll. Pretty grim but at least the chocolate after was fine. Another note says they would like me out by 9am so I had better make it an early night.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arrondissement de Troyes

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