Ranska
Département du Lot

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    • Päivä 19

      Mas de Games to Mas de Vers

      7. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Cheerful but limited breakfast at 7:30, and then a small panic when the La Malle Postale van appeared at 7:45, not the standard "after 8am". Six people hurriedly left the table to finish packing and take their bag to the door to be collected... but the van was on a different run and was dropping bags off.

      We left around 8am with ponchos on. It looked overcast, and there was soon a slow drizzle.

      The walk went through farms and then 3km into a small town (Limogne en Quency) where we bought some bread and cheeses, looked at the church (as always) and headed on. The total for today was to be around 25km, which included three small villages (Limogne en Quency, Varaire and Bach) all about 7ks apart. There was a slow downhill to the first town, but after that it was generally flat - which was good, as there was constant light rain.

      There were a few novelties on the way. One was an old dolmen, which was about 100m off the path, and taken as a sign that in Neolithic time, people were settling around those areas. Another was seeing a deer running through a field early in the afternoon. A third was a series of 'cabane", the circular dry-stone structures in the fields that were either shelters or storage - or perhaps wells.

      A lowlight was the mud. For the last 8kms it was almost unbroken. The rain was not a problem with ponchos and overpants, and it was cool but not finger-numbingly cold, but the mud was always mud.

      The hotel - Gite de Poudally - is a little outside Mas de Vers, which is another non-village collection of a few farms and nothing else. I did not have high expectations, but there was apricot tea on arrival, a cheerful host, big dry rooms and lots of space. Our bags were already here. One lady said it was an hotel, not a gite, which is fine by us. We contemplated going for a walk when the sun came out later in the afternoon, but quickly thought the better of it: it would involve wet grass or mud, and there was nothing nearby to see. Everyone says that May in the south of France ought to be sunny, warm and charming, so we might not be seeing it at its best...

      Dinner was everyone sitting at a few long trestle tables. It was surprising how many people spoke good English, and how few people there were German.

      Tomorrow is the last day of the Camino. Going only on the distance from town to town, we will have done 350km in 17 days.

      34,190 steps, 27.8km and 6 flights
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    • Päivä 37–38

      Day 37 - Limogne en Quercy to Vaylats

      28. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      A reasonable night in the caravan - slept in to 8!!
      Enjoyed our petit dejeuner, packed up and headed into town to send some unneeded vetements back to Blighty. Emily be warned!
      Nearly headed off in the wrong direction 😳 but realised before too many wasted steps.
      It was a hot and sunny day so we both donned our shorts for the first time on this walk 🦵 a shock to the world!!
      A pleasant walk today through fields and woods - Simon spotted a deer.
      We stopped in the town of Vairers for a welcome lemonade and once again set off in the wrong direction as some helpful French guy pointed that this was the way 🤦🏻‍♀️
      It was only when I saw our distance to destination had increased from 7.9 to nearly 12 we realised and had to double back - much to Simon’s annoyance.
      We heard and saw our noisy frogs again.
      We passed fields full of oxeye daisies that were lovely.
      We arrived at our destination for the night - another convent! And have been put up in a very nice room that overlooks a moat - that is full of - you guessed it - noisy frogs 🐸 I’ve recorded the sound and will see if it uploads.
      Supper was a task - stewed beans with marinaded pork - rather salty - needed many glasses of water to get it down! The Plodicus already had an iffy stomach 🥴
      Let’s see what the night brings- and we have a much longer walk tomorrow!!
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    • Päivä 18

      Cajarc to Mas de Games

      6. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      We stayed in bed a bit longer than recent normal because we had a mere 20kms to walk. Breakfast at 8am (good cereal), bags left at reception, into town and a boulangerie, then along the river, up and down a few hills, through rocky woods and farmland and stopped at a village called St Jean de Laur for lunch at exactly 12pm - sitting on a rock with a view over the countryside.

      Note to Nico ( who may well be secretly reading this each day): it is acceptable for your parents to have the same simple lunch several days running because we also have breakfast ( hint) and extremely varied dinners - from potato-less potato soup to amazing dishes in Conques and St Chely.

      We knew it was 12:00:00 when we stopped as the bells in the church beside us rang 12 times, then 12 times as we put down our backpacks, then started a little tune as we ate, then another new peal effectively to announce that the rain was starting.

      It had been cloudy all morning - T-shirt weather once walking- but light rain set in as we sat there, so ponchos on, lunch over, setting off. It was only 6kms to the place we are staying - a ‘Chambre d’hotes’ or B&B. Another long rocky path and surprisingly monotonous scenery - thick woods, with few clearings or buildings.

      We arrived at Chambre d’Hotes La Hulotte, Mas de Game, at around 1:30, just as the rain eased. The non- English speaking host showed us the room and large kitchen/ communal area. Our luggage was there, plus 4 other cases, so perhaps 6 people at dinner tonight.

      The room is decorated in a more rustic style than hotels, but is otherwise as large and good, and we have had the large kitchen to ourselves for a few hours. It has a small garden, cows in the next field and a few old stone farm buildings and houses nearby. I walked around in sunshine, although it was only 12deg. Later we both walked around the area again, but there was not much to see and the rain was back.

      Dinner at 7pm was for six - two French men, two French women and u, and all of us around the same general age. Two men spoke better English than our French, so we got along. The meal was all home-made: vegetable soup, a terrine, duck sausage and chocolate cake. A bit of discussion on how to organise caminos, which agencies were good or bad (sadly, ours is squarely in the latter category) and the weather outlook, as well as where we all came from.

      29,466 steps, 22.1 km and 55 flights.
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    • Päivä 46–47

      Tournon d'Agenais, Lot-et-Garonne

      18. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Wending our way slowly north we have moved into Lot-et-Garonne where we are staying in another Beau Village at Tournon d'Agenais; a royal bastide overlooking the green Boudouyssou valley.
      Our aire which is provided free is at the foot of the town. We didn't mind a steep walk to the historic part of town; it was worth it!
      We enjoyed exploring the town and finishing off with a walk around the ramparts.
      We were accompanied by lovely weather today.
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    • Päivä 36–37

      Day 36 - Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy

      27. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      We snacked on saved bread and a tin of posh pate we found in the only store open on a Sunday. We chilled in the garden with this snack and one of the many mischievous cats. Simon experimented with the hammock. Quite a restless night due to ‘church’ feet. (Restless feet!)
      Met a nice couple from Estonia and Holland but who actually live in Germany. Chatted over le petit dejeuner.
      Set off for Limogne-en-Quercy - a fairly short 15k distance. Once again we bumped into Cliff - a fellow pilgrim - we regularly have seen over last fortnight. We did whole walk non stop despite rain ☔️ once again half way through.
      We found the only cafe in Limogne that was open - yes it’s Monday!- and it was heaving. Decided to have lunch here rather than waiting to 7 to eat - very reasonable €14.90 for 3 courses👍
      We saw a chap we had noticed on several occasions at other locations who is walking the pilgrim route, quite young, but always seems out of it. Today while we had lunch he was downing the beers, went to get up and knocked his table full of beers flying, he must of fallen on the glass as the next thing we know is the ambulance arrived to sort him out 😕
      We finished our lunch and made a trip to the local launderette which was conveniently in the supermarket car park so we got washing and shopping done in one fell swoop 🙌
      Staying once more in a mobile home on a campsite. Cheese, crackers, fruit and wine for supper!!
      All is peaceful as we unwind for the night 😴
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    • Päivä 38–39

      Day 39 - Cahors to Moissac

      29. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      After a lovely night in our medieval apartment in Cahors we had a hunt for a bakery that served breakfast. The Plodicus led the charge through the morning drizzle. After a few false starts we hit gold with the great smells of coffee and fresh pastries. As we tucked into these delights our friendly Dutch/Estonian couple spotted us and joined us for breakfast. They had finished their walk and were returning home tomorrow.
      As we returned to the apartment to collect our rucksacks and head for the station. Today was a rest day from walking but we were hopping along our route to Moissac - a time saving device to ensure we finish our pilgrimage in the brexit defined 90 days!!
      Simon has named our sat nav Trevor and he did a sterling job getting us to Gare du Cahors.
      So we had 2 short train journeys before arriving into the ancient town of Moissac.
      Simon became exasperated when an Austrian/German woman latched onto us. He is now feeling a little uncharitable about this! Why and how - he says- do these people appear out of the ether?
      After marching twice around the town we settled on a small pizza place for lunch. The sun was in and out the clouds throughout the afternoon.
      We then headed for the Abbey which has many links with the Abbey in Cluny - our starting point. It also reminded us on a smaller scale of the Djomo in Florence. We were accompanied by a large tourist group of Spanish people. We lit 2 candles for you all so feel the blessings coming your way.
      We headed for tonight’s accommodation at 3.30 to be greeted by our hostess Veronique. A former teacher turned guest house owner. She has an amazing house with a beautiful garden - and I think we are the only guests tonight. She has recommended a trip to the canal quarter of the town this evening. We shall see …
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    • Päivä 17

      Figeac to Cajarc: sun, greenery, kms++

      5. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      We left our Figeac refuge around 7:45 (breakfast was naturally brilliant}, bought a baguette at a bread shop and were on the way by 7:55. There were light clouds in the sky and in the valleys, but no rain, and after a few hours we were both down to a single T-shirt (each). It was a long walk - 31.3 km according to the GR65 signpost, but other than a steep hill up and then down at the start it was mostly steady small hills and flat areas, at least until a few more hills near Cajarc.

      We saw very few walkers all day, so we tottled along at our own pace. Towards the end we overtook quite a few people, but otherwise we saw almost no-one. . Anne does not use the poles, but I use one of Amr and Rosie's (now that we have them), especially on the rockier paths. We were mostly on small roads or wide paths, with no mud to speak of (ie not deeper than shoe soles) but towards the end there were a few longish sections of rocks.

      Mostly we were going through farmland or little woods, and going over hills often gave views of the whole countryside because it was all gentle hills. There were dry-stone walls most of the way, and we even went past a lone dolmen of unknown origin in a corner of a national park. The areas with rocky paths were probably hard to cultivate, because there were usually stunted tress and scrub beside the path, rather than fields. It was all extremely green, though - especially the rolling fields of oats or barley or rye or wheat (?).

      We stopped for lunch on a stone wall in a messy little village where the church was closed. It was around 12;30, and we had done about 19-20km. We had to refill some of our water bottles there- a first for the trip. Suddenly the "eau potable" signs were important! We also stopped at a set of signs around 2pm to take a photo for Amr, Rosie and Annie Clarke, and to ask if they remembered where they were exactly 34 years ago (Australian EST). [A: Dinner at Amr and Rosie's in Shirley Road Wollstonecraft. Anne arrived late].

      We reached Cajarc and the hotel around 3:30, although it might have been 10 mins earlier if one of us ( I ) had agreed the sign to Gite with our hotel's name would also take us to the hotel. We went into town and up the street to be sure... and they ended up being the same place.

      Our luggage was at the hotel when we arrived, so we had a shower and walked into the town. The church is big, but without the arches and vaulted roofs of other old ones, and the town has building in the same stone as Figeac and St Come, but it is not as well kept. Lots of the old buildings are closed, and seem unlikely to be used again given the advanced state of disrepair. There is a large 14th C "palace" right near the centre of town that looks like it will need squillions to be usable, even with a wonderful facade.

      We could hear a lot of cheering, so we also went to the local sports field thinking there might be a rugby game... but it was soccer. The team in green was better than the one in neck-to-knee grey.

      The hotel ( La Peyrade) is part of the Logis chain, but perhaps only just. It is like a single storey country motel, although the room are much larger, so lots of space. It also has little terrace in front, with a view over the town and hills behind it. So far it's average: 1. Good wifi. 2. No tea or coffee. 3. Totally non-controllable temperature (to the point of the control panel being bolted shut). 4. Very light and open. 5 Dinner included a fish non-curry with vegetables that were surely once frozen. 6 Bed good. 7. Nice view from outside the room.

      45,210 steps (might be a record), 36.2km and 86 flights.
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    • Päivä 34–35

      Day 34 - Figeac to Grealou

      25. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      After a wander around Figeac soaking up the atmosphere we decided to eat at our hotel - a good decision as they did a lovely meal at a great price 😋👍
      An odd night in our hotel with people wandering up and down the corridors to the shared toilets 🙄
      Up early for another great breakfast then time to say goodbye to Helen and Andy as we set off and they stayed another day in Figeac before flying home tomorrow. It has been so lovely sharing this experience with Helen and Andy. We will miss them 💕
      So we set off on a warm, sunny day. The sat nav on my phone was sending us a strange way to link up with today’s walk. We then met an English woman who gave us directions. We still managed to miss a turn and started following the wrong markers taking us to the wrong place. This meant we completed 5000 steps without leaving Figeac 🤦🏻‍♀️ not great when we had practically 20 km to walk!!
      Finally on the right route we headed out of Figeac up the hill.
      Got the heart bumping and a pumping. Very hot and sweaty. We hit the village of Faycelles and the cafe ‘petit pause’ provided us with nourishment to power us on.
      We took a deviation through wild woods and groves full of wild flowers and the air was filled with the hum of insects. These ranged from bees, hover flies, butterflies, cicadas and a couple of asiatic hornets.
      We limped into our destination exhausted and on our last dregs of water - time to start carrying more.
      We are staying in a little hippy hobbledy hoy gite and are bracing ourselves for a lentil supper 😳
      We have navigated the shower scene with postage stamp towels. We are resting and hoping for a good sleep following 7.00 supper.
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    • Päivä 15

      Decazeville to Figeac: mostly sunny!

      3. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Today was one of the long days - somehwere between 28 and 31 km, depending on which source you believed. We took our bags downstairs, had breakfast (serve your own coffee , which was a good change after 2 days, but jam and bread) and left around 8:10. There was a lot of fog, but it wasn't raining, and a farmer we walked past early on assured us that there would not be any rain.

      A long hill out, then forests and a little too much mud until we went down to a small town on a swollen river. After that there was a good 10km of roads and dry paths through fields and woods. When we crossed the river again we met a NZ couple, who walked at around our pace and therefore spent most of the day with us. They were carrying their own gear, and are hardened hikers. Canterbury to Rome - the Via Francigena? No worries, done that.

      After a little village called St Michel we headed on while others stopped...and hit a little more mire. It was mostly on long, flattish sections, often beside fields. To balance it out, there were grand panoramas as the fog lifted, and often blue skies.

      We stopped for lunch at a little church in a village called St Felix, which was about 21km along the way. After the break we met the NZers again (they had taken the road) and walked with them pretty much to Figeac. There was a heavy shower about 30 mins out, but then we were dry when we arrived, and our hotel was right at the short bridge at the old entrance to the town.

      We might have been very lucky with the choice of hotel (the trip organiser's) and the decision to spend two nights here (ours). Figeac looks amazing! It has a very old, almost medieval village surrounded by the rest of the town, with two large churches and lots of alleys and narrow, cobbled streets. We arrived at the hotel around 3:15, feeling pretty good: there have been shorter days in worse weather that felt much harder - and the hotel is excellent. We beat the luggage, but started off by washing muddy clothes, and then planning a trip to a laundromat once the bags and dirty clothes came (which was around 4:15).

      The laundromat was a short walk into the old city, and while things were being washed we wandered through some of the old streets and one of the enormous churches. It really is a great town: Conques might be more spectacular, but Figeac has more, and far more character. That might be for tomorrow.

      We are having dinner with 5 American women tonight, plus a few add-ons. The five have been doing the walk as a group, and had been in the hotel in Le Puy with us on the first day. The youngest is probably 70, the oldest close to 80, and they all get along art their own pace, although most days we are at the hotel several hours earlier than the first of them. They have been at the same hotels most nights for the last 10 days (same tour organiser). They are an interesting lot. They have their own mini-dramas because of the weather (not what they expected), the disparate group (they all knew someone in common, but not necessarily each other) and the different walking speeds. Some of them are fun, but some are also a bit depressed that they have come to France for some unspectacular weather and rough trails. Let's see if today cheered them up.

      Hotel (Pont d'Or) scores extremely well. 1. Great wifi. 2 Tea and coffee in room. 3. Temperature controllable (sort of). 4. Good size room with shelves. 5. Great bed. 6 Great breakfast. 7. Good dinners. 8 A boot-cleaner. 9. Lift

      42,408 steps, 34 km, 115 flights
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    • Päivä 16

      Figeac

      4. toukokuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Figeac is special.

      Bonus one is that we have a very pleasant hotel. Curiously, a Best Western, but easily the best so far (subject to Aumont-Aubrac's extra points for the manager who resolved Air France).

      Bonus two is that we are here two nights.

      Bonus three is that Figeac is a beautiful old town. It is as if the buildings have remained the same for at least 200 years. The old area, which is quite large and has lots of alleys and twisting, narrow streets. All the houses are stone, often with blue-shuttered windows, wooden framework visible from outside and old, tiled rooves.... and no (or almost no) obviously new buildings anywhere. There are two huge churches, both different but also spectacular.

      The man who deciphered the Rosetta Stone was born here, and there is a massive replica of the Stone in a courtyard near his old house. The Knights Templar had a castle in the 13th-15th C. The oldest house was started in the 10th C, small mansions and places are around every corner, and there are rose bushes along the streets.

      We spent the day walking around the tourist office trail, with 30 stops marked on the map, all for good reason, then the churches again, the river, the fair ground (1-5 May is Figeac Fair), a few different sorts of shops, the sports field, the non-old town ( still very old on the edges) and everything in between. There were dodgem cars, carousel and other side-shows in the main street all day, as well as in a park on the top of the hill, and in the evening a rag-tag brass band played what seemed to be the same tune over and over, but with unstoppable gusto. A good place to spend two nights!

      21,519 steps, 16.2km, 24 flights.
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