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Solo Trip to India and Nepal
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Solo Trip to India and Nepal

This is my first solo overseas trip since Mark died earlier this year. I'm excited to return to India and to explore Nepal for the first time, but it will be strange not to have Mark with me to share the experience with. Läs mer
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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalResenär

    It's FREEZING!!! 🥶🥶🥶

    18 februari, Indien ☁️ 9 °C

    It was even colder last night, and the sun didn't appear today, so it was freezing all day! I spent most of the day indoors working, only venturing out when I'd finished. I wearing my coat indoors and had a blanket wrapped around me! My biggest challenge all day was trying to keep my fingers thawed out so that I could type!

    Later, I went back to Trek and Dine and had tomato soup followed by chicken biryani for dinner. This place is really not set up for the cold. All the restaurants are open to the elements. I sat nursing my hot soup bowl to keep warm 😀.

    The forecast is for it to drop to minus seven tonight! I'm leaving at 5am, so I'm expected a frosty climb up the hill!

    Today's photos show my biryani, an intriguing dessert menu, and the fact that my hotel is so classy, there is astroturf on the floor in the corridors 😂🤣.    Läs mer

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    The long journey to Shimla

    19 februari, Indien ⛅ 10 °C

    I woke up at 2.09am! With my alarm set for 4.25am, needless to say, I couldn't get back to sleep. So, I was in plenty of time to lug my case up 60 steps and a very steep hill (slowly!), to meet Ramesh on the road at 5.10am 😀.

    He was five minutes early, and we made the trip down to Dharamshala bus station in very quick time. As we passed through Mcleod Ganj, there were hundreds of monks walking up the hill from the Dalai Lama Temple. Goodness knows where they were going at such an early hour!

    Ramesh dropped me off at the very bleak bus station. The café was open, but sadly they didn't do coffee. We set off just 5 minutes later than scheduled, which I believe is pretty good for India. I was one of only 4 passengers, but that soon changed. In effect, I was on a service bus, so we stopped every five minutes throughput the eight-hour journey for people to get on and off. I was soon regretting having booked an 11-hour journey with the same company on Sunday. I was soon Googling for alternatives. It appears there are none, so I'll be looking into the cost of a private transfer!

    The journey was very slow and the poor suspension meant that it wasn't that comfortable either! It took me a good few hours to get warm, despite the fact that there was full sun almost as soon as dawn broke. Am I moaning too much? Probably! 😀

    The second half of the journey was worse than the first. We were climbing up and down very winding mountain roads. Whenever he could get his foot down, the driver was overtaking at breakneck speed on blind bends. We were being thrown around all over the place. It felt like I was in a washing machine! I really thought I was going to throw up. The child behind me did!! 

    When I caught glimpses of the scenery, it was spectacular. I couldn't take any photos, though, as, apart from the bumpy conditions, there were bars across all of the windows!

    Eventually, nine hours after setting off, we arrived at Shimla bus station. I went to the taxi rank to organise transport to my hotel, only to discover that my accommodation is located deep within the 'no taxi' zone of Shimla. The best they could do would be to drop me off a 15-minute walk away. I was annoyed because the hotel hadn't mentioned this, and nor had any of the reviews, which made me doubt their veracity.

    Anyway, I had no choice, so I took a taxi to the police checkpoint and walked from there. Now, a 15-minute walk doesn't sound too bad, but I am halfway up a mountain and have to go further up with all my luggage. The hotel proved to be very elusive. I asked several people if they knew where it was - they all sent me in different directions! By the time I finally found it, I'd walked for over half an hour 😃.

    Typically, there were lots of steep steps up to reception. I struggled up there and struggled again to get the door open, to find three guys huddled round a one-bar electric fire engrossed in a cartoon on the TV! They were not a bit interested in me or my complaints about the lack of information on how to find the place. One of them managed to drag himself away from the TV to check me in. He showed me to a freezing cold and very damp room. It did have balloons decorating the ceiling, though, so what did I have to complain about? 😃 

    I asked if there was another room. He said no, they were completely full. He then told me that he'd given my 'real room' to someone who had arrived earlier than me. I'd got the worst room because I was the last to arrive!! I pointed out that there was no shower! He hurried off and came back with a shower attachment that he screwed on. I said again that I wasn't happy about the damp. I know I stay in budget accommodation, but this place was more than twice the price of where I'd just come from, and yet it was 100 times worse! He said all he could do was offer me a heater. I agreed. When he brought it, I realised that it was the one he and his mates had been using in reception. That explained why he was so annoyed, but I wasn't going to back down! When he 'plugged' it in, I realised he was putting bare wires into the socket, so I told him it wasn't acceptable. He went away and came back with a plug and a screwdriver. He then tried to charge me an extra 500 rupees a day for the heater. Needless to say, I refused!

    Once he'd gone, I was already plotting my way out of there. My first impressions of Shimla hadn't been that good, and my plans to book a ticket for the toy train from Shimla to Kalka had come to nothing (unable to book online, couldn't do the trip in one day, etc). So, I've decided that I'll see what I can in Shimla tomorrow and then leave for Rishikesh the following day, a day earlier than planned. I've also decided to book a private transfer. It's costing me 8000 rupees (£65), but I'm sure it'll be worth it!

    With that decided, I went out to get something to eat. I found a Chinese-owned hut and had a bowl of delicious chicken noodles. Feeling better, warmer, but shattered, I headed back to the hotel for an early night. There, the guy from earlier told me he had, miraculously, a better room for me and insisted that I should see it, even though I said I couldn't be bothered to move. The room was the same as the one I'm in, minus the damp wall. I know if I agreed, I wouldn't get to keep the heater, so I refused. He really wasn't happy and told me he'd gone out of his way to help me. I said it was his fault because he'd lied to me about not having any other rooms. On the way back downstairs, it all got a bit Basil Fawlty when he grabbed my arm and knocked on another door to introduce me to the woman who had my room! It was very awkward and more than a bit weird!    Läs mer

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    A walk around Shimla

    20 februari, Indien ☀️ 14 °C

    I slept surprisingly well despite the sub-zero temperature - well, I did have a one-bar heater, didn't I? 😂 l think it was just because I was so tired from yesterday and the day before.

    I had a coffee and some biscuits for breakfast. There wasn't a kettle in my room when I arrived, but there was one in the hotel description on booking.com, so I insisted on being given one! I then ventured out to make the most of my one day in Shimla. As I was leaving the hotel, I told the guy I'd be leaving a day early. I told him I was getting a taxi to Rishikesh. He offered to do it for the same price, but with a pickup directly from the hotel, saving me the hike to the police checkpoint. I knew this meant that I'd be going in a private car rather than an official taxi, but I decided to go with it. The guy definitely cheered up, knowing that he'll be making some extra money out of me. So, I leave at 7.30am tomorrow!

    Today, Shimla is the capital and the largest city of the northern Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. It all began in 1864, when Shimla was declared the summer capital of British India. The climatic conditions attracted the British to establish the city in the dense forests of the Himalayas. The presence of many bachelors and unattached men, as well as the many women passing the hot weather there, gave Shimla a reputation for adultery. As Rudyard Kipling said in a letter, it was a place of "frivolity, gossip, and intrigue". Now, Shimla is home to several Tudor and neo-Gothic buildings dating from the colonial era, as well as multiple temples and churches. These, and the natural environment around the city, make Shimla a must-see destination for tourists. Owing to its steep terrain, Shimla hosts the mountain biking race MTB Himalaya, which started in 2005 and is regarded as the biggest event of its kind in South Asia. The city also has the largest natural ice skating rink in South Asia. Apart from being a tourism centre, Shimla is also an educational hub with several colleges and research institutions.

    I went first to visit Gorton Castle, a magnificent grey-stone, neo-Gothic structure built in 1904 and designed by Sir Swinton Jacob. Originally, it was used as the imperial secretariat for the British government. Now, it is the Accountant General's office for Himachal Pradesh. While it is a major landmark, the interior is not open to tourists as it is a functional government office. I looked around the outside, and then continued my walk to Shimla station, which is at one end of the Kalka–Shimla Railway line built by the British, and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Even though I wasn't going on a train, it was good to see the station and to watch a couple of trains setting off on the route. I didn't feel like I was missing much. There was no real atmosphere, and the trains were being pulled by diesel engines, not steam. It certainly didn't have the romance of the Nilgiri Hills Railway that Mark and I rode when we were last in India.    Läs mer

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    Wandering around Shimla

    20 februari, Indien ☀️ 15 °C

    From the station, I tried to follow a walking trail to take in all of Shimla's important sites. This proved impossible as there are so many steep paths and dead ends. At one point, according to Google Maps, I got within 10 metres of an important church. I caught a glimpse of the steeple, but just couldn't find a way there! So, I decided to wander around, trying to focus on the areas known as The Ridge and The Mall, and just see what I could see.Läs mer

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    Original and restored Shimla

    20 februari, Indien ☀️ 16 °C

    Shimla turned out to be a real mish-mash of Anglo-Indian influence. There are international businesses such as McDonald's, KFC, et al occupying old colonial buildings. People in traditional dress hailing from Himalayan villages rub shoulders with well-healed tourists from all over the world. There is a general air of decay, but in the main square, the recently-restored Christ Church, built by the British in the 1840s, stands out like a beacon. I was fascinated by the contrasts. It's like nowhere else I've ever been.Läs mer

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    The Gaiety Theatre, Shimla

    20 februari, Indien ☀️ 17 °C

    There were two highlights for me in Shimla. The first was a tour of the Gaiety Theatre, which was opened on 30 May 1887, to a design by the English architect Henry Irwin. I'm sure I remember reading in Felicity Kendal's autobiography that she was put on stage here when she was a baby and her father was the actor-manager of a repertory company that was touring India. Nowadays, the theatre is a community entertainment and cultural complex which still stages productions by local theatre companies. There was an art exhibition in the basement while I was there.Läs mer

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    Meals and monkeys in Shimla

    20 februari, Indien ☀️ 15 °C

    During the day, I had an omelette for breakfast at the Indian Coffee Shop, a very traditional establishment where the waiters wear very fancy uniforms, and where I raised a lot of eyebrows by being the only female customer! I realised I probably shouldn't be there when I asked if there was a washroom and was directed past several 'gents only' signs, and down 4 flights of narrow stone stairs to an unmarked door! 😂 Later, I had salt and pepper chicken at a 'bistro-bar'. From the window, I was entertained by a traffic policeman in another fancy uniform. It was a pedestrianised street, so I'm not sure what his role was supposed to be 😂. I also made the schoolgirl error of buying an ice cream in a town where there are monkeys everywhere. I had it long enough to take a photo of it before it was ripped out of my hand 😂.

    There are statues of both Mahatma Gandhi and his mother, Indira, in the town. Mahatma visited Shimla several times between 1921 and 1946. In May 1931, he addressed a huge rally on The Ridge. He was the first nationalist to be allowed to do so. 

    I was unable to visit many other notable buildings in Shimla as they are currently closed to the public, but I think I got a sense of the place. I had enjoyed my day, but wasn't sorry to be leaving.    Läs mer

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    Journey to Rishikesh

    21 februari, Indien 🌙 19 °C

    After another cold night, I was happy to be able to make a coffee in my room before leaving on what turned out to be a long and tiring journey. My driver, Sunjit, was careful and polite, but he didn't speak much English, so conversation was limited. As we finally approached Rishikesh, it turned out that the guy from my Shimla hotel hadn't passed on the details about where I was staying. He was refusing to take me the extra few kilometres! I refused to get out of the car. There was a bit of an impasse, but eventually he drove on, albeit reluctantly! In the end, he couldn't take me all the way to my hotel as they were digging up the road, so I had to walk the last 500 metres. Typically, it was all uphill! I was wondering if I'd made another mistake.

    However, when I did finally reach the Asha Delight, Sanjit on reception was very welcoming. He showed me to my room on the third floor, and best of all, there was a lift!! This is a first for me in India. My room is lovely - clean and comfortable with a nice view of the mountains. It will be a good place to explore from, but also to get some work done for a few days.

    I dropped off my stuff and went out for something to eat. I only went as far as the corner, as I was pretty tired. I ordered an egg salad. It wasn't quite as I expected it to be, but it was OK. It tasted better than it looked 😂.    Läs mer

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    A wander around Rishikesh

    22 februari, Indien ☀️ 23 °C

    I've booked a full-day walking tour tomorrow, so today I just planned to have a look around locally. First, I had breakfast in the hotel (cheese omelette, brown toast, and coffee), and then I ventured out. The first thing I noticed was the number of Western hippies there are - both sexes, all ages, all in ethnic dress, many of them carrying yoga mats 😂. It's hardly surprising.

    Rishikesh is situated on the right bank of the Ganges River and is a pilgrimage town for Hindus, with ancient sages and saints meditating there in search of higher knowledge. There are numerous temples and ashrams built along the banks of the river, including one made famous by a visit from The Beatles back in the 60s. The city has hosted the annual International Yoga Festival in the first week of March since 1999, giving it the nickname of Yoga Capital of the World. Rishikesh is also a vegetarian-only and alcohol-free city. All of this means that it is a magnet for those searching for some spiritual solace or some higher meaning to life.

    I'm not here for either of those things - just my usual curiosity about exploring somewhere new. I'm looking forward to learning more over the next few days.

    Today, I took my washing to the laundry and then wandered down towards the river, exploring all the textile and souvenir shops on the way. There is clearly a lot of tourist tat, but there are also beautiful fabrics that are so hard to resist 😂. I did buy myself a small ring. It was very cheap, so it will probably turn my finger green! I also bought a tiger eye bracelet to replace the one that Mark bought me in Thailand over 25 years ago, and which I lost in Paraguay last year. Again, it was cheap, so I'm not convinced it's genuine. I like it, though, so that's all that matters.

    I was surprised to see a leprosy colony on the main street. From the road, it looked like a very rundown and desperate place. I caught glimpses of a couple of very sad-looking people through the gates. Later, a Google search revealed that this is one of four such colonies in Rishikesh run by the Divine Life Society. Collectively, they house 194 leprosy patients.

    I watched a YouTube video that showed volunteers from a nearby ashram going into the colony with food and medicines. They also sprinkled the ground with bleaching powder and cleared away the rubbish. Despite this, there didn't seem to be much hope or happiness in the place.    Läs mer

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    Accidents and incidents in Rishikesh

    23 februari, Indien ☀️ 23 °C

    Today was a day of accidents, injuries, and discomfort, but it was still enjoyable, if exhausting 😂.

    It started when I fell in the bathroom. I'd had a shower, got dressed, and dried my hair. I then stepped back into the bathroom and slipped backwards in spectacular fashion. The first thing to hit the tiled floor was my right elbow. It hurt like hell, and judging by the amount of blood everywhere, I'd clearly done some damage! When I managed to stand up, I promptly threw up. After a while, I managed to get myself together, clean and dress my wound (I had an inch-long cut right across my elbow bone), and get changed. I then checked my blood sugar as usual before breakfast, only to find that it was 10.8 (it should be between 5 and 6). After an initial panic, and with the help of Google, I established that the spike was due to the trauma of the fall.

    Apparently, in these scenarios, the body wants to make sure there’s enough glucose (sugar) available to use as fuel to fight off infection and repair any damage it’s facing. To do this, it triggers the production of stress hormones such as adrenaline, cortisol, glucagon, and growth hormone, all of which signal the liver to release more glucose into the bloodstream. This stress response can lead to potentially dangerous elevated blood sugar levels.

    Feeling calmer, I decided it was best to skip breakfast, so as not to raise my blood sugar even more. I just had a black coffee and a couple of glasses of water, along with a painkiller to ease the throbbing in my elbow. I also needed to replace the dressing I'd put on, as the wound was still bleeding a lot. I contemplated cancelling my trip and going to A & E for about a milli-second. Then I set off to meet my guide 😂.

    On the way, I got pooped on by a pigeon! It's the second time in the past couple of weeks. I thought it was supposed to be lucky 😄. I then went to an ATM and found the previous customer's card still in the machine. I'd seen a white guy leaving the booth as I was crossing the road, but I couldn't see him now. I got my money and then went looking for him. As I reached the place where I was meeting my guide, I recognised the guy coming out of a nearby shop. After doing a namecheck, I returned his card to him. He was a very grateful American. This was turning into an eventful day!

    I found a pharmacy to buy more dressings and surgical tape, and then went to start my tour. My guide, Navin, was on time, and we set off. It soon became clear that Navin is a very religious man. There's absolutely nothing wrong with this, but we did spend a lot of time during the day visiting temples, paying our respects at shrines, listening to gurus teaching in Hindi, touching statues, genuflecting on steps, and praying. The last three were just Navin, not me. I did enjoy the stories about the gods, but I could have done without all the physical manifestations of his faith during the time I was paying for 😄. He also spent a lot of time on the phone to other people. Other than that, he was a great guide 😂.

    We visited the Darshan of Lakshman Jhula Ashram, and a little further down the street, another temple. Here, Navin was keen to join in a ceremony that was going on. He encouraged me to join in, but I made it clear I would rather stand back and observe. Despite his explanations, it was all a bit baffling to be honest!    Läs mer

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    Crossing the Ganges

    23 februari, Indien ☀️ 24 °C

    We continued to walk towards the river, which we crossed by walking across the building site that is Bajrang Setu Glass Bridge. Construction is ongoing on this innovative suspension bridge that will feature transparent glass floors, allowing visitors to witness the sacred Ganga flowing directly beneath them. It is replacing the original Lakshman Jhula bridge, that was built by the British in 1929, over fears about its structural safety. I'm sure it will be a major tourist attraction when it is completed. For now, it seems pretty dangerous to allow so many people to use it while there are a plethora of welders, builders, and painters working there with no safety barriers to be seen.

    On the other side of the river, we admired the Trayambakeshwar Temple. I was glad that Navin didn't suggest we climb the 13 storeys! There are more restaurants and shops on this bank to cater for the many tourists. Once the commerce ends, there is quite a pleasant path to follow, with nice river views and lots of ashrams. There are also many makeshift shacks where monks who don't belong to any particular ashram live.    Läs mer

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    The beach and a monkey attack!

    23 februari, Indien ☀️ 25 °C

    Halfway along this path, we descended some steps between two shacks to reach Rishikesh Beach. I was surprised by how soft the sand between the boulders was, and by how many people were enjoying the beach. Many had brought picnics, and some were swimming in the Ganges. I must admit, it did look nice and clean at this point. I had the obligatory paddle, and can confirm that the water was extremely cold! We are only 249 kilometres from its source in the Himalayas here. It has over 2300 kilometres to go until it empties into the Bay of Bengal.

    I took advantage of the break on the beach to check my blood sugar and was pleased to see that it had dropped to 8.8.

    From the beach, we made our way to the Ram Jhula Bridge. Nivan suggested that I walk across it and back while he waited for me. He told me that there were lots of monkeys, but not to worry as they were used to people and were very friendly. He was wrong! I was about to sustain my second injury of the day. A very large male monkey jumped on my back from a great height. The impact completely winded me and I know I'll be bruised by tomorrow! When I told Nivan, he seemed amused!

    Seeing as my blood sugar was down, I felt able to have some lunch. Nivan suggested we went to Chotiwala, the oldest and most famous restaurant in Rishikesh, which conveniently, was just around the corner. There is a human who's job is to be dressed up like the restaurant's mascot, sit on a throne, and ring a bell every time someone enters. Despite the gimmick, the mushroom masala, jeera rice, and garlic naan I shared with Nivan were all very good.    Läs mer

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    Beatles everywhere!

    23 februari, Indien ☀️ 25 °C

    After lunch, we continued our walk along the river bank to visit the Beatles Ashram. Local enterprising businesses have certainly made the most of the fact that the band were here for a couple of months in 1968 and wrote some songs during their stay. There is wall art everywhere with a whole street named after them. Even very ramshackle food outlets and hostels carry the Beatles name.

    Not having read up about it in advance, I was a bit shocked when we actually reached what is known as the Beatles Ashram. The original name of the ashram is Chaurasi Kutiya. This name has now been given to the tiger reserve, part of which houses the ruins of the ashram. On the pretext of protecting the wild tigers, elephants, deer, and other animals that live in the forest, the local government charge 1200 rupees to every Beatles fan or general tourist who wants to see the ashram. This might be OK if there was the chance of seeing an animal once you'd paid your money, but that was clearly not going to happen. There wasn't a fence or a wildlife ranger in sight. Instead, you walk through the delapidated ruins of the place where the Beatles once stayed. The front section is a building site. The ashram was abandoned in the 70s. Renovations began last year. The intention is to restore the place to a functioning ashram. It's going to take many years and a lot of money for that to happen.    Läs mer

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    The house built for The Beatles

    23 februari, Indien ☀️ 25 °C

    The house that was built especially for the Beatles to stay and write in during their visit is now just a shell, but Navin was keen to point out that it was originally fitted out with baths in the ensuites - unheard of in India!

    We explored the other buildings on site, including the 84 meditation chambers built from local river rock. Each of these small cells was intended for the practice of each of the different classic yoga postures that together represent the whole range of human life. Attendees of the ashram were encouraged to complete all 84 in their time here.    Läs mer

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    Preaching and another ashram

    23 februari, Indien ☀️ 24 °C

    At the end of the visit, there is an exhibition of photos relating to His Holiness Maharishi Mahesh Yogi and the Beatles. Despite it not being what I was expecting, I'm still glad I saw it.

    Just outside the ashram, there was a marquee set up. Inside, a guru was telling the story of the god, Rama, to a crowd of several hundred devotees. Navin insisted we went in to listen for half an hour or so. He assured me that, even though I wouldn't understand a single word, I would be uplifted by the tone of his voice. He was wrong again! All that happened as I sat cross-legged on the packed women's side of the carpet was that I became incredibly hot and then I got cramp 😂. As soon as I felt it wouldn't appear too rude, I extricated myself and waited outside for Navin. There were many women sitting writing in notebooks. Navin later explained that they were writing the name of Rama over and over again (like in the old school punishment of doing lines!). They can then submit the filled pages to a 'bank' that looks like a small temple in order to accrue credits to gain access to heaven. It sounds bizarre to me!

    Next, we visited another ashram, which was a haven of cool and calm with a beautiful garden. For the first and only time today, I could sort of understand why someone might want to stay in an ashram for a while and do their daily meditation and yoga. The feeling didn't last long as our next and final stop of the day was at the Parmarth Niketan Ashram.    Läs mer

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    Parmarth Niketan Ashram

    23 februari, Indien 🌙 20 °C

    With 1500 rooms, this is the biggest ashram in Rishikesh and the site of the largest nightly Ganga Aarti, a ritual that pays homage to the sacred River Ganges. The ashram was founded in 1942 by Pujya Swami Shukdevanandji Maharaj (1901–1965). Since 1986, Pujya Swami Chidanand Saraswatiji Maharaj has been the President and Spiritual Head of Parmarth Niketan, but for the last 25 years, Sadhvi Bhagawati Saraswati, an American woman living and teaching at the ashram, has been its public face. She is a renowned spiritual leader and motivational speaker. She’s the author of the newly released #1 bestselling memoir, Hollywood to the Himalayas: A Journey of Healing and Transformation. Originally from Los Angeles, she is a graduate of Stanford University and has a PhD in psychology. eep spiritual practice.

    The Ganga aarti happens at sunset and is attended by around a thousand visitors each day. The site was already pretty crowded when we arrived at 5.30pm, over an hour before the sun was due to set. People were jostling and stepping over each other to get a good spot. I chose to stand at the back out of the melee. Before the main event, the crowd was entertained by musicians and a singer who were all dressed in monks' robes, showing they belong to Parmarth Niketan.

    At one point, the crowd all surged towards the steps in the middle of the arena. Word had gone round that Sadhviji herself was about to appear. She descended the steps surrounded by her closest disciples, standing out from them as they were all dressed in yellow robes, while hers were red. From the crowd's reaction, it is clear that people believe her to have some kind of divine power. I found it all a bit uncomfortable to watch.

    During the ritual itself, she gave a speech, both in Hindi and in English, and young monks swung lit lamps. People sent leaf bowls filled with flower heads and lit candles down the Ganges in memory of their loved ones. Navin assured me that this was the most important part of the whole event. He said I should join in. He said I should make a circle in front of me with a large flame in memory of Mark. I don't think Mark would have thanked me 😂. I could see people becoming very emotional. Some appeared to be in a trance. I'm sure some people found solace in it. I'm happy that I experienced it, but I don't feel changed because of it. I certainly wasn't rushing to touch Sadhviji's robe afterwards, as many people, including my guide, were.

    When it was all over, we crossed back over the Ganges and took a tuk-tuk back to the starting point of the tour. I said my goodbyes to Navin and walked back up the hill to my hotel, calling to pick up my laundry on the way. Once there, I checked my blood sugar again (6.6), ate some fruit, took a painkiller, redressed my wound, and went to bed. I had done just under 25,000 steps, my back was sore, my elbow was throbbing, and I was absolutely shattered 😊.    Läs mer

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    A couple of easier days

    25 februari, Indien ☀️ 24 °C

    I slept for a solid nine hours on Tuesday night. By Wednesday morning, my blood sugar was back to normal, and my wound appeared to be healing. Crisis averted!

    I'd planned a work day, so I spent most of it in the hotel. I ventured out for a meal. I stayed local and had tomato soup and a toasted cheese, mushroom, and onion sandwich. It was very pleasant sitting in the sunshine in the restaurant's garden. I had to drag myself back to my desk 😃.

    This morning, after coffee and yoghurt for breakfast in my room, I went out to explore a bit more of Rishikesh. I dropped off some laundry, and then I visited the pink temple that I first saw from the Beatles Cafe the other day.

    Later, I had a delicious wood-fired pizza in a restaurant overlooking the Ganges.

    Back at the hotel, I did some work and watched a bit of TV. Sometimes, you need quieter days in the middle of a long trip 😊.    Läs mer

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    From Rishikesh to Kathmandu via Delhi

    27 februari, Nepal ⛅ 14 °C

    On what would have been my Dad's 86th birthday, I was up with my alarm at 5am. After a coffee and a banana, I went downstairs where my taxi driver was already waiting for me, even though I was 15 minutes early!

    We had only got to the end of the street when we were flagged down by an Indian girl in a bit of a panic. She was with a French-Canadian guy. She was his tour guide, and they had to get to the same place I was going to. They were booked on an earlier bus to Delhi than I was, but she had been unable to find a taxi. Of course, I agreed that they could come with me. My driver was happy because he could earn an extra fare 😀. 

    We chatted all the way to the bus stop. By the time we parted, we had exchanged details. The girl, Mansi, really wants to make a business out of being a tour guide. Max, her client, said she was really good and had been invaluable to him during his first four days in India. I suggested that she apply to join the Greether platform. She messaged me later in the day to say that she had, so I messaged Vanessa, Greether's founder, to put in a good word for her. The upshot was that when I get back to Delhi, Vanessa will pay for us to have an informal meet-up. So, I get a guide in Delhi for free, and Mansi gets paid, as well as constructive feedback and her first positive review. It's a win-win. I love it when you have these unexpected encounters while travelling.

    My bus to Delhi from Rishikesh was at 7.10am. It arrived on time. Inside, the smell was horrible! I had booked an ordinary seat for my five-hour journey, but others were in sleeper seats and had been on the bus since yesterday evening. It smelled like it, too! We had a half-hour stop at services on the way. I didn't want anything, but I took the opportunity to have a walk in the fresh air. The second half of the journey wasn't as bad.

    When we arrived at Delhi's purpose-built bus hub, I was immediately pounced on by a number of tuk-tuk drivers trying to grab my case and hustle me into their vehicles. They wanted 1250 rupees to take me to the airport. I knew there was a metro station just around the corner, so I politely but firmly refused their offers! The Metro system in Delhi is very easy to navigate. It works like underground systems all over the world. My only problem was that I didn't have any notes small enough for the ticket machine. Luckily, a friendly local stepped in to help. My ticket to the airport cost only 60 rupees, considerably less than the tuk-tuk drivers wanted!

    I had to change at New Delhi station to switch to the airport express line. There, I realised that I could drop my bag off at an Air India desk inside the underground station. I was a bit too early to do this, so I grabbed lunch in the station, figuring it would be cheaper to eat there than at the airport. I had a veggie burger. It was quite nice, but I am craving meat after a week of purely vegetarian dishes 😄. 

    Once I'd eaten, it was time to get rid of my bag. It felt a bit weird leaving my case 20 kilometres from the airport, but I put my faith in the system. Within a few minutes, I got a WhatsApp message telling me that the baggage handlers had my case and it was on its way to the airport. They gave me a tracking number. In the event, it probably reached the airport before I did. Whatever, it was there when I landed in Kathmandu, so the system seems to work.

    The wait at Delhi airport was without issue. We took off on time and were served a good meal for such a short flight. I had chicken manchurian with noodles (hoorah!) and the dessert was carrot cake. As we approached Kathmandu, the pilot told us that Nepali air traffic controllers had advised we would be put in a holding circle for around 40 minutes. The crew served us extra soft drinks, and all was well.

    On landing, the visa procedure was straightforward. I had already filled in the form online, so I just had to go to the cash desk to pay. The fee was US$50. I didn't have that. The border official said it would cost me 25% more to pay by card. He asked me if I had anything else. I told him I had a small amount of sterling. His next comment made me smile - "OK, give me 30 quid, and we'll call it quits" 😂.

    I took a taxi to my hotel. It was pitch black, so I couldn't see very much, but I was immediately struck by how much quieter Kathmandu is than any Indian city I've ever been in. The feeling of calm continued, even when we drove through a very busy night market close to the city centre. We had the windows down. Everyone was very smiley and friendly.

    My hotel is down a very narrow alley, just a stone's throw from Durbar Square, the beating heart of Kathmandu. I've booked a studio apartment with a kitchenette for the whole time I'm in Nepal. I might go away for a couple of days here and there, but I'm happy to have a base so close to the action, and I'm really looking forward to cooking for myself after three months of hotel living.

    FUN FACT!! Nepal is the only country in the world with a non-rectangular flag 😂    Läs mer

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