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Camino De Santiago

August - October 2023
A 38-day adventure by Hiker Holly Read more
  • 35footprints
  • 2countries
  • 38days
  • 399photos
  • 2videos
  • 4.3kmiles
  • 3.8kmiles
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  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
    Day 11

    Portugalete,Spain

    September 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    It was all urban. Very hot. This is a normal Cafe/cafeteria for them. Everything from coffee/latte and food to a drink and food.
    Guggenheim museum in the morning and off along the river.
    Some breezes off the river. We stopped at 13km to take shoes off ( daily bliss) and one pair of socks- no blisters yet! Then on to Potugalete
    Two of us missed turn for a bridge/ferry more like a gondola that takes cars, bikes and pedestrians across the river. And walked on 2.9km to Getxo. Absolutely beautiful and worth the mistake! Photos don’t do it justice. The beach was huge and gorgeous! The building architecture stunning!
    Ok clothes are hanging to dry. Time to have a glass of wine and water then find food.    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
    Day 13

    Laredo, Spain

    September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    10 hours, 33km Beauty, technical, ups and downs ( of course) . And did I say 10 hours?
    Some side notes: 2 glasses of 1.20€ for both. Food, places to stay all under 100 €/day.
    As we left the sunrise was amazing! We were already drenched 89 to 93 degrees depending on is there was shade and OH, or a blessed breeze! Poles, breezes and Caffee stops are my new best friends!! 10- 15 minutes I’d ask one needs to keep on track to arrive at your Alburgue.
    The walk along the coast everything worth getting going early for. Which by the way we almost missed. We dashed out after my auto 7am alarm went off as we had planned a 7:15am departure. Never have gotten up and out SO fast!
    The cattle seem to all wear bells in some fields. It can sound like a symphony of bells.
    We walked by one residential yard in the many villages we pass through and all the chickens came running toward us to ‘greet’ us/ hope for food? Then they just hung out. The rooster was not impressed.
    We hiked up 250m late in the 10 hour day and to be certain we were alert, Mother Nature put sliced rocks imbedded in the twisted trail. Trip hazards to keep us in our toes!!! No photos, the area was too technical.
    Tonight a good meal!! Perhaps, more photos of food. 😂
    Tomorrow, only 21km to Guemes. Treating our arrives to private rooms, Queen size bed, no bed bugs, pool, etc. 65£ per person and a short day!! Going to love it!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
    Day 14

    Guemes

    September 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    A photo of our night sleeping arrangements. So special and happy to have them at the end of another 30km day. Some of us don’t have ac dryer for laundry. 😉.
    We walked the town out then to a Ferry . A walk on boat that only crosses about 10 minutes then let’s you off. in another town. Beautiful!
    The first challenge of the day was the hike up a narrow bushy beach climb with rocks, roots and rocks to climb over and walk through. I could stop and take photos because of our real challenge.
    The group of 11 folks ahead that were taking this as if it were a line at a grocery store. Every step and turn was one person at a time with a line up!! No flow. Take a step and wait!!
    They wouldn’t let us try because they said were old!! They’ve were mostly younger than me. They were a few that shouldn’t of even been on that trail. . They were dressed in sandals, not necessarily for hiking. The women had her toes freshly done. Nobody was using poles, but a few. They mostly likely thought it was a walk on the beach.
    We had had a gentleman at a cafe warn us it was peligroso ( dangerous) and cuidado ( take care) and warned us the sand would fall away.
    . I don’t think this group of 12 knew what they had gotten into. It was scary to watch them try and maneuver.
    Some local that jam up this daily just passed the group with a quick ‘Pardon’ That broke the damn! We finally got past them. They may still be working they way down.
    If one of them doesn’t have a twisted ankle or a scrap I will be surprised!
    Then we walked about 5-7 miles on the beach Women and men often bath nude. But to walk right by a couple of gentlemen with their ‘bits’ tanning is a shock to us puritanical States side folk. 😎. We did take s break. Such s view!!
    Then onto another 11km Lovely fields and hot roads for the rest of the day.
    We are each staying in a sublime 65€/night room with a queen bed! No bunkbeds tonight!! I took a shower knowing there was no one else waiting to shower. I can go downstairs and have a gal do laundry, not take my dirty laundry 3 blocks away then run a timer while we try to relax with a glass of wine and run between wash cycle and dryer cycle.
    I have died and gone to heaven!
    Oh, there is a bar/restaurant here that has steak 🥩! Tammy and I are so excited!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
    Day 15

    Santander, Spain

    September 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Today was only a 20km day! It feels like a day off!
    Our walk- Wonderful! Beach view that we saw for hours and never got enough! Another long walk on the beach.
    Yes, more jinglely bits. A middle aged+ couple arrived, shed their bother-some suits and jumped in. Such freedom!
    We have found where all those lovely grasses with the white plume comes from. We walked through a ‘forest’ of them! The mother load!!
    Then another ferry to cross to Santander, Spain.
    A quick bite and glass of wine with Natalie as she must return home to Belgium today in a few hours.
    Then off to the bus station to buy bus tickets. In order to catch our plane on the 4th AND see some of Santiago de Compostela we must leave a two 30km days not walked. That still leaves a bit less then 600km to go.
    Bus tickets purchased we headed for a cathedral. 7 blocks along, a young man was following us speaking Spanish to me, pointing at his phone. No I didn’t know where he could charge his phone. I don’t speak Spanish. The young man went on pointing at the charging end of his phone. I really tried to ‘blow him off’. He pressed on looking very frustrated.
    Natalie said she remembered him from the bus station. We should stop and find out what’s going on.
    A young women stopped in to explain in English that one of us had left their phone at the ticket office and he had turned it in to the ticket lady. ME! My phone!
    I felt horrible!! I thanked him and thanked him!
    What an angel!!! As we rushed back to get my phone which was right with the ticket lady. Tammy mentioned that if I had quit speaking Spanish to him it might have gone better.
    Geez!!! I lose my phone. I am unaware of what language I am speaking. Natalie has been calling me ‘Lost Holly’ in her French Belgium accent. I am definitely in the first stages of a El Camino break down. I am losing it!! Only 11 days in.
    And we are a bit sad. Natalie left for her flight.
    She is a directional genius and so funny! Great stores, wonderful personality. I miss her already. Safe flight Natalie! Hugs
    ……and then we had to move rooms due to a leak in the roof….. grab your back packs, documents and chargers….. make a new bed. - mine is a top bunk of course! Cool down this room with an open windows and good night!. Sleep tight..    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
    Day 16

    Llanes, Spain

    September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Like a tourist’s day. We walked all around the city. But no Camino walking this day. Every street was amazing. It’s definitely a place I recommend. Not too buzy.. A tourist town with great shops with just the right amount of people!! We stopped at a chocolateria. The cup of chocolate was amazing! I couldn’t finish it because it was almost 70%chocolate and a bit of ‘milk’ I can drink. Had my chocolate fix but at least 2 weeks!
    We had had a large lunch. We stopped for a glass of wine at 7pm and laughed until 9pm. Total tourist day!!
    A great day!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
    Day 17

    Ribadesella , Spain

    September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    34km day. The temp. Only in the 70’s. Rolling hills! The best day! UNTIL, we weren’t consuming water as normal because we weren’t melting: sweating like crazy! Our muscles hurt, joints hurt, etc. What total losers!
    Water! Water! Water!
    This town is unimpressive thus far. We will try to use rose colored lenses and pick the best views.
    We DO have a room to our selves tonight! Whoop! Whoop!!. Our own shower and toilet! The lap of luxury that us. All for €33.27.
    We are such big spenders!
    BTW We just paid $2.75 for wine. EACH! That’s outrageous !! That’s the most we have paid. We aren’t coming back here again!
    ****I think of you all each day! Hugs
    Loving this!!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
    Day 18

    Colunga,Spain

    September 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    It felt so easy!! 20km day - cool breezes, dappled shade; dirt roads, dirt paths, rocky paths. More sea views and beaches and more beaches! Up meadows full of cows. Watch your step!!
    It’s cooler 72 degrees and high clouds over head so not many folks on the beach. We are remembering our water!
    We did come across a Korean group fully covered in sun protective clothing, hats and masks. To me they looked SO hot. But, gosh, were they fast! They passed us with such fresh enthusiasm while we were dragging in our 4 and 5th hours of hiking . We would lose them. Run across them again. Fast! Fast! Fast!
    Then we saw the BUS. Some of the group would pop out of the bus at designated stops on side roads.
    As they were all dressed, masked up, hats and neutral or dark clothing we didn’t realize one group was switching out for another! We were always running into a group with fresh legs that was only going a mile or so.
    Switching topics: In La Vega we came across wood structures set high above the ground. These are used for grains, corn, etc. The slabs they rested on were to keep the rodents from getting up and into the food stores. I imagine a big storm of the very nearby coast and high waters could be an issue, also. La Vega had more Horreo’s then we had seen. The history!
    A yard we walked by had hand painted signs representing pilgrims from so many places and country’s.
    Just something to make one smile while walking behind our only Camino commute issue. The bus group, which we again came upon took photos of everything and were difficult to get around. Yes, a group off loaded in the next town we were walking through.
    Very sweet. They seem to really enjoy being able to greet us with “Buen Camino” which is the norm. And then giggle a bit. Adorable!
    Then seemingly wanting all of us to ‘cue up’. and go single file was less adorable. We just had to blow through while smiling and wishing them ‘Buen Camino’
    We have arrived at Colunga. Tammy scored again! High five. We have a private ( for the 2 of us) room , enormous bathroom 56.93€ or $66.70 for the night! They offer a complete breakfast and they have GF and DF for me. The proprietress is GF also so was very careful when making notes.
    We have another 20km day which feels again so easy after the 30+km days we’ve had. There are also no ‘mountains’ to cross. Tomorrow however, there will be no stops/coffee shops until we get to our next stop Villaviciosa,Spain. Full bellies for us and a banana and lots of water in our packs!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
    Day 19

    Villaviciosa,Spain

    September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    An ‘easy’ 17km day before tomorrow . 30km into Gijon, We were commenting on having lame posts/blogs. Perhaps we needed a challenge to write about. No sooner did we say that and the skies opened up. Rain!! Rain ponchos came out. Cover the backpacks!!
    And it rained so hard we took refuge under a tree. Be careful what you ask for!
    We walked in the rain ( not too long) and on fairly gentle terrain for the most part….( especially as compared to the first 11 days)
    I had time to think, not just focus on breaths, next steps and getting to food or eating from our packs…. and the end goal for the day a place to stay.
    What has the Camino taught me so far: how high I can climb, how hot, sweaty wet, tired, and hungry, I can get. I hate hills you’ve all heard me say that. And yet we are happy getting up each morning to climb up always up ( well some down of course) to see what one can’t see in a car. To interact with folks from Germany, New Zealand, Australia, Korea, France, Spain, 🇧🇪 Belgium, of course ( Natalie) and more. To see the small villages and architecture there that you won’t see on the main roads. The feel of old Spain. I wouldn’t miss it!
    I also thought about blisters- we have come upon many pilgrims with blisters, bandaged feet, some who have gone barefoot or switched to sandals to walk great distances. Some folks who have to go home, take a day or days off just to heal. Due to my fearless leader’s experience ( Tammy). we have zero blisters. Each day, that is worth celebrating!
    Tonight we are again in a private (shared room) with a great bathroom. The laundry is across the street. A engaging Sideria ( cider house, which they are known for) and restaurant is down a block. AND there is a fan in the room!!! It’s amazing the little things that make your day on the Camino.
    Back to the Sideria! The proprietress pours without looking until it first hits the glass. She makes it. Runs the restaurant. Pours every individual glass of cider. And you drink it immediately out the bubbles leave. Look 👀. You can see how there are here bubbles do disappear. Jk. One does need to drink each small pour. Apparently, they don’t use the carbonation (fake?) system we do. She pours. They are bubbles. Drink fast or the bubbles are gone.
    ***This is another great find of a place to stay. High five Tammy!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
    Day 20

    Gijon. Spain

    September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Still in Cider Country. This morning we left At 6:30am to beat the heat. That meant, no breakfast. We had bread, ham nuts, banana, water, chocolate, more water packed. Because, of course this was a 30 km day. And of course, yet again, we have no places to stop. . Last time as you may recall, we arrived after 30km, aching everywhere as we hadn’t stopped and hadn’t had enough water or food.
    This time, we were focused and did arrive in good shape after 8 hours for 30km. We decided to set timers for water, at first. Later got timers set up for food! After crossing one pass, then a second smaller pass we were beginning to feeling it.
    We stopped. Shoes off, one pair of socks and half of the toed socks and just rested on a shady lawn along the road. We were only 6-7 miles away from our place we were staying but the cities can be confusing.
    We have learned that means 45 minutes of walking especially, when you are dragging. You just want to get there. Shower, wash clothes and after a glass of wine and a snack. Just decompress!
    We had a few snags tonight. Nice hotel ($46,34:/each… Spain is so fun with prices!).
    But the closest laundry was about a mile way. This is after waliking two 30km this week. The HECK with walking a another mile!! We decided to hand wash and dry our clothes on our balcony.😳😃
    Only to find (when asking about a dryer after we had hand our washed,our laundry…. Hanging laundry is definitely NOT allowed at this nice hotel. . Oops! Sorry!
    But we are so bad …. So sorry however, my undies, socks, bra, pants etc are hanging from this very nice hotel on the Plaza Mayor. Hahaha ( Joanne, you can’t take me anywhere . 😂)
    Back to the day: Today was to be a walk in the park with a ‘bit of a climb.
    We started out in the dark with street lights lighting our way, then the city ran out. Before the sun came out we were using my cell phone for lighting, We almost tripped over a dead black cat, does that count? We didn’t cross it’s path…
    We climbed some good climbs today. Walked in rain, sweated in sun, on hills. We were thankful for dappled shaded, cool breezes.. any breezes and any shade!
    We walked roads, dirt trails, mud and rock trails, grassy fields and then did it over again. Thankful for the warmth of sun in the morning, Thankfull for finding the SHELLS and ARROWS as we leave a city in the morning as they are not well marked.
    I have input photos of the terrain. The nasty parts I can’t photograph as I am focused on not falling on my face or my rump.
    We did of course, drum roll please, come upon the beach AGAIN! Big surprise, I know.
    We climbed what they call a Mountain pass and walked beaches. I will never get tired of the beaches. No apologizes for the unending beach photos!
    Oh, my new favorite thing: Horrarios! They are antiquated, refreshed, and finally I saw a live in types!! I want one!!
    We are in Celtic cider country, check out the barrels! We had a great dinner! Photo of course.
    I am so tired… There is a photo of the church on the water. For the fishermen.
    Good night    Read more

  • Hiker HollyCamino De Santiago
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    Day 21

    Aviles, Spain

    September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    25km walk today. We started with a 6€ Buffet breakfast. They even had GF toast and lots of fruit and eggs. Great start!
    Walking out of Gijon takes quite awhile. We have left the beaches and are in the pastures and forests again. We had decent ups but mostly flat. And some industrial areas that just weren’t photo worthy, at all! And stinky. Uck!
    There were only one place to stop for coffee, water or food. So for the most part it was another banana, chocolate, almonds and water day.
    We have arrived in Avilas, Spain! We have enough energy to really walk around so we are off!!
    Apperantly, they don’t believe in serving drink without food here, we are being told, Hurray hungry us!
    No chips or simply some bread. We get bread with Jamon ( ham) or torte, in this case potatoes and eggs sliced from a pie shape. Great folks! Beautiful town. The architecture and the history just pull me in! This town just pulls at me.
    We slipped into an open church. and were enthralled by its art and presence. . I sat down and I got tears in my eyes actually, they were flowing., I had no idea where they were coming from…. something about this church just hit me.
    Tomorrow we are off to Muros de Nalon. 22km
    Up down, up down, I will try not to bore.
    Hope you are all well!!    Read more

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