Camino De Santiago

August - October 2023
A 38-day adventure by Hiker Holly Read more
  • 35footprints
  • 2countries
  • 38days
  • 399photos
  • 2videos
  • 4.3kmiles
  • 3.8kmiles
  • Day 3

    Philly Airport

    August 30, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    A day late in leaving. Only back packs. Luggage couldn’t be retrieved last night.

  • Day 4

    Still in Madrid

    August 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    After all theI’ fun’ at the beginning of the trip. We board the plane in Philly. 2 hours later we take off! Tammy is in lush first class a glass of wine with in minutes of boarding and a sleep pod.. But hey I got a sleep mask, and a pillow. and water then wine 3 hours later when we were at 10000 ft. 😃.
    We walked a bit of Madrid. My phone died. Totally on me, but a cascade of issues began! And after we arrived at the Airport, I missed the flight. Tammy barely made the flight we were supposed to be on! She even valiantly held the flight for me. No kidding!!!
    Ah, but I was in the most super slow line in the entire universe, there was a song a drug issue that took a half hour. I get it. And families of 5 and 6 ahead of me. Multiple languages, so was impressed! I was also stressed. ……. So I am still in Madrid!
    Tammy’s flight / out flight left and wouldn’t you know it…. That fight was redirected to Bilbao,, Spain. Then more fun for Tammy…..a long Bus ride back to our destination, San Sebastián.
    Mean while, security took my trekking poles ( dangerous weapons) ….(.long story that has nothing to do with me being directionally challenged while trying to catch the same plane as Tammy.🤣🤣.. My trekkers have been pole-napped!!
    In the end I had to get a VERY reasonably priced last minute room. I wasa but concerned actually…. It turned out Ok!!😎. See photos
    Now Tammy’s phone has died. She is on a bus to San Sebastián.
    The Saga continues……..
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  • Day 5

    San Sebastián

    September 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    No glitches! Going to mail the luggage to the end stop. Going to head out!! Well, after buying new trekking poles and meeting up with Tammy . 👍
    Finally met up with Natalie! 😊. After she walked 38km, got unpacked,we all showered and headed back into the center of town. And it is an amazing warm feeling city.
    We had amazing Tapas, not like the tapas in the states- these are life changing!! Some wine-duh. then to bed.
    Up and out by 8:30am.-ish. We waited got a breakfast as the forecast called for rain. ☔️
    We left San Sebastián this morning around 8:45am. By 10am we had climbed 850ft up. Then thunder, lightning and RAIN have us wet, wet, wet. 10:10am. We are under the cover of a garage overhang hoping the rain will cease. Because, if we walk in the rain we will get blisters that will stick with us the whole trip.
    Just checked the weather 90-70%rain ALL day. This might mean a cab to the next town.
    The owner of the garage popped his head out and saw us. We asked about a cab or bus. No taxi. Bus wouldn’t work out either. Maybe a train?
    Someone’s sweet husband decided to drive us on his Saturday off in driving rain the 20 minutes to where we are staying!!! Some people 😇😇😇.
    We changed. Our shoes may not be dry by tomorrow! 😩
    In the bright side- We found an amazing place that has /is a Caffe ( coffee shop) ,gastronomica ( great food) and gin bar) . Starbucks could learn!!
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  • Day 6

    Zarautz, Spain

    September 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    Letting our gear our dry out and ‘ licking our wounds’. after another disappointment at great place a half a block from our nice Hostel.
    Thankful we weren’t in the tight steep ravine what the clouds opened up. All I could think of in between heavy breathes was- please no flash floods!!!
    Then we stood under the garage over hang. Natalie who is unstoppable carried on. Tammy and I got a lift from someone who must be the best hubby ever! Communication was difficult as he was speaking Basque Spanish, I was using really poor Mexican Spanish. ‘Best hubby’ had the patience to translate/make communication possible.
    Tammy has mentioned that it is considered a very good deed to help a Pilgrim on the Camino.
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  • Day 7

    Deba

    September 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    This morning’s sunrise was wonderful! Then it was Up, up, up through what felt like creek beds. And just to make it really fun steps are thrown in. 60 to 80. Mud! I almost lost a shoe.
    Then down, down, down. Warm!
    We stayed at an Alburgue but 80 people. We were in a room with 16. Snoring, hot air, someone’s car alarm all night, trash pick up at 2am. Haha
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  • Day 8

    Markina,Spain

    September 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 84 °F

    We stayed dry today, but the climb was leathal!! The ups were way up and the downs muddy and super steep! Poles are my new best friend!!
    No rain. But wonderful breezes! It was muggy! So the breezes were much appreciated ‘. At the high point of some sections the wind was so strong we were glad we had poles to keep our balance. And poles were essential on the muddy downhills. A Tammy commented a speed would’ve worked
    No place to stop and eat in this part of the Camino. We had a 5 minute and a 15 minute break. We are sore and tired.👍
    Meeting amazing folks from different countries: Holland, Spanish/Mexican/Canadian, French, etc. stories and conversation. 😊👍
    Then dinner. The second plate….,I could eat everything!! And did!’ YUM!!9
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  • Day 9

    Pozueta,Spain

    September 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Where to begin!? For a part, it was just like in the description it was Rolling hills, vistas and countryside! . Really enjoyable……compared to yesterday. And for a large portion..
    The lovely rolling hills however, were climbs up 150m to 250m in a very short distance. The rolling part is more the portion they were referring to as ‘flat’. But it was lovely. It was also 93 degrees!
    First thing - 450m up in 4.5km at 7:30am. But that was OK because then we went down 150m in 2 inches of mud.
    NO PROBLEM! 😂.
    We were moving down a hill of mud ( there are no photos as that would caused a fall ) Then just as Natalie from Belgium said, “no one fall in the mud” and a gal from Texas fell and slid 2ft. Her back pack got the most of the mud.
    Luckily today there were villages every 5-10km to stop, have a caffe, sparking water, cake( for those who can) then 20 minutes later head out!
    As the day goes on the breaks also include taking shoes off, along with one pair of the two pair of socks we wear , so the feet get some air and perhaps dry out ( from body heat) agai also it gives one’s feet a rest so we can tackle the next hill. And there is ALWAYS ‘more up’.
    Rolling hills, mind you , refers to a drive through rolling hills, in some areas,…..in my opinion.
    As we head up, in am using poles to help propel me up. I am breathing heavily and not looking up to see how far. …… It’s better that way. We or I mentally cheer when we hit a short stretch of flat…. Or relatively first waking…. Maybe it’s just me, barely breathing and’ shouting’ hurray’ between gasps.
    By the end of a 25-31km day My feet hurt, the muscles, the bones, all parts hurt. I need a shower so badly it’s ridiculous, and I don’t normally sweat!. And the need of a shower starts writing an hour of walking.
    Then there are the solo conversations/ self reflections which are intriguing. I am resolving conflicts I didn’t even know I had to deal with.
    As Natalie will say, “ It is good”. (Use a French accent)
    Loving this experience!!!
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  • Day 10

    Bilbao,Spain

    September 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We made it!! More after a glass of wine. Gracias Dios! 28km Toast
    In Bilbao. Showered. Clothes drying. Wine and then the Gugenheim museum?
    Tired. Hungry and done in.
    Happy!!
    Ah, but not done yet! We visited the Gugenheim Museum, then had dinner. It’s 9:45pm more I am Done!Read more

  • Day 10

    Portugaleta,Spain

    September 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    First leaving Bilbao and the Guggenheim museum. The route was all urban/ industrial. 😔. Some big string guys from New Zealand decided to taxi out of town. It was boring. The river view and breeze saved the travel.
    . Very hot as we were walking on asphalt. But one 20km today. Easy! This from the gal who always said she didn’t like hiking!
    Not many places to stop….we found one place to stop, hurray!! 13km out.! Shoes off, Socks off. Ahhhh!
    We missed a turn at a bridge/ferry more like a gondola that takes cars, bikes and pedestrians across the river. 2 of us missed this turn and walked 2.9km along the bay.
    Beaches were amazing!!! We ended up in Getxo. . Absolutely, worth the mistake!! Photos don’t do it justice.. The full 5km+ round trip when hot and sweaty wasn’t the best, but worth it to me. Besides, we were already there!
    Some have been concerned over what I can eat.
    Fresh orange juice, sometimes ledge de Avena and Cola cao- steamed oat milk and chocolate. ( sometimes 2) 😃👍. Bananas, and fruit. Sparkling waters. Water in my pack. Not hungry when walking the Camino until we stop each day. .
    I take apart sandwiches and eat the fillings. Often 2 pintxos ( amazing small sandwiches that are their ‘fast food’😃)
    I can eat at dinner and have no pride about servings. The god here is great! especially the communal diners at an Alburgue with all the other guests. Fun meeting finds from so many different countries!
    And all my vitamins. I feel great!
    Time for a shower and to hand wash clothes.
    ***
    I had a bite to eat:
    Something I want to mention is that sometimes going up a very steep climb or a steep down ( especially in mud) one can only think of the next foot step and plow pole plant. If there is a moment- Getting to the destination. A shower, clean clothes ( because every inch of you is sweat!) water, lots of water ( even though you’ve had lots).
    Other times - you realize some issues just don’t matter. No matter how big! I shared with my husband,, Ron, that a big issue for me with another person is starting to fall away. It feels trivial right now.
    Ron said I must be delirious. 😂
    Some side fun. I ventured out in a town I don’t know…. got a bite so I can last until dinner and got caught in a rain storm to beat most Seattle down pours AND found my way back to the Hostel! Pats on the back for me! One who can’t find her way out of a paper bag. 🤣. I am drenched in 3 blocks!
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  • Day 11

    Castro-Urdiales,Spain

    September 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    27km today. Started in an Alburgue with 8 other people. Some people we have seen on the Way.
    Like Lethia( US CITIZEN-Mexican/Spanish parents ). She was a roommate one night. We have run into her often. She has helped in ways we didn’t absorb at first. Apps. That have kept us from taking a wrong turn ( possible 5km mistakes X return) and more…. To tired to recall. 🤪
    As we Portugalete we walked beside freeways then along ( literally beside) highways was not perfect but the vistas were amazing! The walk was correctly described as mostly rolling hills was an accurate description! Actually railroad grade this time! There were 200 stairs, a few steep inclines and downhill ventures. But a breeze compared to the first week. Also, some confusing signage.
    We did find a hidden away place to eat lunch with an astounding view. ( not always something we get-often it’s a quick caffe/coffee and onward. For me a banana and sparkling water)
    Wait! Let’s go back to Portugalete-last evening. Of my two travelers- one hadn’t slept a wink due to finding bed bugs at 2am and sleeping in the reception area couch. The other
    was also exhausted. I for some strange reason had to go get something to ea at 5:30pm😃. I ( who can’t fund my way out of a paper bag). Decided to return to where we had had a glass of wine so I could order Pintxo ( small sandwiches ) in order to take it apart as I can’t eat the bread or cheese. Everything was closed until 7pm. Most 8pm. I looked up other restaurants, etc. as I was very hungry.. S I have up a few drops of rain fell. And then the rain came flooding down. The locals were under over hangs out in doorways. I sheltered also. After a few minutes I thought I sound just head back as ( amazing I could tell) the Alburgue was 3 blocks away. And it was 93 degrees. I hugged buildings. Actually thought twice before crossing the final street as It looked like it could possibly take my footing. As I hit the door which needs a door code -more time in drenching rain, etc . Tammy was peaking out door wondering if I was alone and scared under a bridge somewhere out of the rain. 😄
    Back to today- I added a few more km on to my trip as I volunteered to find a laundromat for our really sweaty clothes.
    The lavandaria all directed me to is closed. 😩. So sweaty clothes will be traveling tomorrow. Not on us. 🤣
    We are in Castro for the evening then on to Laredo.
    Castro is a small coastal town that is so clean, welcoming and beautiful with wonderful people! It should be on a bucket list!!
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