Liam’s Lake Loop

September - October 2023
A ride around Lake Michigan 🚲
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  • 13footprints
  • 1countries
  • 11days
  • 97photos
  • 6videos
  • 734miles
  • Day 10

    Grand Haven to New Buffalo

    October 2, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Day 9!

    Well, tonight's my last night out. I'll be home tomorrow. It's a funny feeling.

    Last night, Ella and I spent the night with a couple of older folks who are living quite exactly how I'd like to live one day. Bike rides in the morning, Hammond B3 each evening, lake side walks, finding fossils in Florida, deeply curious about the world they live in and deeply in love with one another. We had oatmeal and gluten free Kirkland brand veggie muffins for breakfast.

    Ella and I parted ways after that. It was a little sad but it was the right thing to do. There's something beautiful about being able to live in correspondence with your own impulses. Both paying for your own mistakes and quietly embracing the moments of joy that you create for yourself.

    After Ella left, I went to see some Nordic windmills in Holland. I took pictures of a couple from CA. For their sake, using their phone. They were a lovely couple, but I did not take pictures of them for my own keeping. I then ate some tortillas and nut butter for lunch while listening to Sufjan Stevens and debating whether or not to be sad some more. I decided not to and instead crushed a Celsius energy drink and biked 87 miles to New Buffalo.

    And here I am! Thanks Lofredos for letting me sleep here! I'm sleeping on the upstairs porch so I don't stink up the place.

    🍎 Celsius Sparkling Fuji Apple Pear
    🎶 Anything by Sufjan Stevens
    🙏 Thanks Lofredos!
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  • Day 9

    Ludington to Grand Haven

    October 1, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    Day 8!

    Or is it 9??? Nope, it's 8. Today began at a lovely lakeside campsite at 5am with a fabulous bikeride through a bit of fogginess. I had Backpacker's Pantry for breakfast with a little Nutella on the side. Ella had some beef jerky.

    Our first stop was a gas station grocery store with a really friendly woman working the cash register and making sandwiches. We had some tune salad and talked through a plan for the day. Also, a man on a motorcycle laughed at me.

    Then was Hart, where we met a really friendly trio of gay fellas who bought us energy drinks and skittles. Ella had a hand rash that was bringing her spirits down. Luckily, she found some antihistamines and also the skittles, both of which seemed to help quite a bit.

    We then made it to our campsite for the evening, P.F. Hoffmaster. It was closed. We felt defeated. So, we ate some pickels and then heard back from a WarmShowers host. Hooray!

    Andrew and Bonnie are both artists with the most incredible home I've set foot in over the past decade of my life. In the town of Grand Haven and right on they lake. They each ride recumbent bikes and enjoy playing the Hammond B3.
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  • Day 8

    St. Ignas to Ludington

    September 30, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Day 8!
    Lovely day.
    Ella, Alpacas, Nutella... tea on the beach. What more do you need.

  • Day 7

    St Ignas to Traverse City

    September 29, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Day 7!

    What a day. I found a companion! After breaking camp this morning around 6 I made my way to the Mackinac City Bridge Authority to get a ride across the bridge (no bikes allowed - but they're open 24/7 to give you a ride for $5!). And low and behold, upon my arrival, I met Ella!

    She too is on day 7 of a bike touring trip - from Chicago - averaging 100 miles a day. What?! We decided to correlate our travel plans and agreed on spending the night in Traverse City with a fellow bike tourist I have been in contact with via Warmshowers.

    Tomorrow we'll wake up early and hit the trails yet again.

    🍎 Tacos
    🎵 Hermanos Gutierrez
    🙏 Ella! It's been wonderful riding with her!
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  • Day 6

    Milakokia to St Ignas

    September 28, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Day 6!

    What a day. It began at a lovely rustic campground with a weird little breakfast of half a Backpacker's Pantry meal I didn't finish last night, half of a Butterfingers bar, and some buckwheat tea that Emma got me from Japan. Thanks, Em!

    My first stop was King Fish Market to pick up smoked salmon and crackers for lunch. It's been there since 1951! I opted for Cajun despite the shop owner's brown sugar recommendation. I ended up saving it for dinner and having a pastie instead (pass - tee. I was corrected multiple times).

    These Yoopers take pasties seriously! It's basically a hot pocket... but don't tell them I said so. I got my pasty from the world renound "Letho's", which has been around since even before King's. And guess what. While I was checking out, the man behind me offered to buy me lunch! But there's more! HE'S FROM THE LEHTO FAMILY! And also, the shop owner, Bobby, gave me an apple and three pears. These Yoopers, folks. Mm.

    I then biked down a road called Cheeseman as I studied football podcasts so I had something to talk about at a bar tonight during the Packer's/Lion's game. My studies were a little fruitless 🤷‍♂️

    A bike mechanic from Escanaba recommended camping at Straits State Park, so I got myself a campsite, set up my tent, and have been hanging out at a quaint little bar ever since. Listening to live music and charging my battery. No football conversations yet... I'm still working up the courage...

    Tomorrow - the LP!

    🍎 The Pasty!
    🎶 Great be the Lake, Ben Lamar Gay
    🙏 The Lahto's, of course!
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  • Day 5

    Escanaba to Milakokia

    September 27, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    Day 5!

    Best day yet. My evening with Mary was remarkable and I began today feeling refreshed, inspired, with a well planned day ahead of me.

    First stop: Pear snack. Thanks Mary. I was riding in 15 mph wind pretty much all day. That pear snack was great encouragement. 🍐

    Second stop: Manistique! A lovely Cafe called Cedar Street. While I was there, I started chatting with the folks sitting beside me and someone must've overheard about my plan to bike around the lake. And they picked up my bill! I tell ya, folks. These Yoopers are of a different breed.

    Third stop: a gas station! To pee! Also I bought batteries for my headlamp and a butterfingers for later. I met a sugarbeet delivery man. Those beets were as big as my head! Friendly fella. He wished me happy trails.

    Oh yeah, yesterday I bought a new seat that has more cushion. That was an excellent choice.

    Fourth stop: Milakokia camp ground. Mmm. I love it. It took me longer than I would like to admit to get a fire going... but I did it! And it got me thinking about buying a campground. How cool would that be. I could work remote from an RV, have people pay on the honor system if I'm travelling... anyway. It's wonderful here. I'm listening to Alabama Shakes and feeling good.

    🍎 Yooper Bar
    🎶 Hold On, Alabama Shakes
    🙏 The lovely Yooper who picked up my lunch bill.
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  • Day 4

    Wells State Park to Escanaba

    September 26, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Day 4!

    Escanaba State Park was stunning. Truly the perfect time of year for leaf peeping. On my way out of the park, I rode through a Potawatomi community which brought back memories of Braiding Sweetgrass, a favorite book of mine written by a member of the Hadenosaunee tribe. The pace of life and conversation was slower, which was refreshing after the maximalist approach took to yesterday.

    This morning was pretty tough - my body felt great when I woke up (despite a whopping 126 miles yesterday!) but because I wanted to have breakfast in the State Pake, against my better judgment I started biking before breakfast or electrolytes. And I'll never do it again! It got me thinking about how important it is to preserve your judgement and ability to make decisions. As I was riding, I felt weak and confused, and low and behold, once I had some breakfast and electrolytes, I started feeling like myself again.

    This evening I'm spending the night with Mary and Andy in Escanaba. She works in PT and retail once a week just for fun. On Thursday she'll go down to Grand Rapids to visit family. We had a fabulous meal of mashed potatoes and lentil loaf (can you believe it mom?!) with a vegan gravy. Mm.

    Tomorrow I'll make way from east to west, shooting for St Ignace on Thursday evening. In time for the Packer's game!
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  • Day 3

    Manitowoc to Wells State Park

    September 25, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Day 3! Why am I doing this? Why would anyone ever decide to use all their accrued vacation days, even go into vacation days debt, to roll around on a bike for nearly two weeks straight? What could possibly drive someone to do such a thing?

    The answer just so happens to be the only commonality between walking tacos at a street fair, popcorn at a movie theater, and meals while biking packing. Yup, you guessed it. Eating out of a bag.

    The mental challenge of biking this much is real. But so is the delight of eating out of bag. Every time the weather isn't looking so good, my booty feels like I just sat on a radiator, or I realize I just biked 9 miles the wrong direction, I tell myself, well, at least I get to have my next meal out of a bag. And then everything feels right in the world 😊🌎🚲

    🎶 Thursday's Lullaby by Night Ark
    🍎 Celery that doubles as a spoon
    🙏 The park Ranger who didn't arrest me for trying to camp on the beach
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  • Day 1

    Mequon to Manitowoc

    September 23, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Day 2! Last night I enjoyed a meal with my dear friend Grant Mitchell as we talked about the idea of shared experiences. Apparently, as I have since learned thanks to the Happiness Lab, shared experiences feel more intense, for better or worse, than they would if pursued independently. For that reason, Grant and I looked each other in the eye as we had our sushi. We shared that sushi experience. And it was intense.

    I then made my way another 15 miles or so to Mequon where I spent the night with the Olsens. They showed me the studios they have curated for themselves to work on art projects. It was so inspirational. So much love went into the design of their spaces and it got me thinking about how important it is to cultivate a beautiful space for the areas we pursue our passions.

    This morning we went out for coffee and talked about the parallels between the artists and the musicians of the world. I then made my way down to Kohler Andrea State Park (thanks for the rec, Claudia!) and saw none other than... my REI coworker, Paul! How fitting.

    These evening I'm spending the night with Brian and Cath in Manitowoc. They're a couple steeped in the traditions and philosophies of native culture and have been incredibly gracious.

    🎶 Disfruta la Fruta - Juan Wauters
    🍎 Free pears!
    🙏 Shoutout to NPR. What would I do without you.
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