India
Fort Cochin

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    • Day 99

      Kochi

      December 14, 2022 in India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Gestern Früh kamen wir mit dem Bus hier an bzw in Ernakulam, einem Stadtteil von Kochi, früher Cochin.
      Das früher unbedeutende kleine Fischerdorf erlangte nach einer Flutkatastrophe 1341 an Bedeutung, da der ca. 40km nördlich gelungene Hafen dadurch komplett zerstört wurde und das heutige Hafenbecken vor Kochi eröffnete. Damit kamen die Europäer hierher um mit dem Gewürzen zu handeln - Pfeffer galt damals als das Schwarze Gold.
      Während diese Zeit waren zuerst die Portugiesen mit Vasco da Gama um 1500 hier, bevor die Niederländer 1663 kamen, die die Portugiesen vertrieben und der Stadt zur Blütezeit verhalfen. Zum Schluss wollten auch die Engländer noch mitschneiden und mit dem englisch-niederländischen Vertrag kam auch Kochi 1814 zum britischen Kolonialreich. Durch das Ehepaar Wellingdon wurde in den 1920er Jahren das Hafenbecken abgesaugt um Tiefe für die großen Schiffe zu schaffen - mit dem Sand entstand die Insel Wellingdon. Noch heute wird jeden Sand abgesaugt um die Einfahrt zu ermöglichen.
      Nach der Unabhängigkeit Indiens verfiel der Hafenn und die Stadt nach und nach, erst in den 70er und 80er Jahren haben einen Gruppe junger Männer dies geändert, indem sie Veranstaltungen ins Leben gerufen haben, viele Bäume gepflanzt haben und mit den großen Festivals Aufmerksamkeit auf Kochi gezogen haben und der Stadt damit wieder Leben eingehaucht. Heute ist die Stadt ein Mix aus Indischem und Europäischen Stil - wir waren überrascht als wir ankamen, nach der heutigen Stadtführung wissen wir warum das so ist. Unsere einheimische Stadtführerin war Teil der Bewegung, die zum Aufschwung beitrug und hat damit verschiedene Epochen der Stadt miterlebt und konnte viele Geschichten erzählen.
      Ganz in der Früh kann man den Fischern bei der Arbeit zusehen, die Auktionen um die Fische beobachten und über die vielen verschiedenen Fische und Meerestiere staunen, die hier verkauft werden.
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    • Day 49–53

      Backwaters

      December 16, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

      Der nächste morgen begann für uns mit einer 5 stündigen Busfahrt. Der Bus hatte keinerlei Komfort, noch nicht einmal Scheiben. Gegen Mittag kamen wir in Kochi im Bundesstaat Kerala an. Dort hielten wir uns zwei Tage auf, unternahmen aber nichts und ruhten uns einfach nur aus, gingen etwas durch die Altstadt spazieren und besuchten ein Einkaufszentrum. Danach fuhren wir mit dem Zug nach Alappuzha. Dieser Ort ist recht berühmt und wird auch aufgrund der Backwaters Venedig des Ostens genannt. Die Backwaters sind ein verzweigtes Wasserstraßennetz im Hinterland der Malabarküste im südindischen Bundesstaat Kerala. Es umfassen ruhige Bereiche von Seen, Kanälen und Lagunen, die sich parallel zur Küste des Arabischen Meeres befinden. Diese Wasserwege kann man mit Hausbooten, Kanus und kleinen Schiffen befahren. Es ist für uns aber eher vergleichbar mit dem Spreewald. Nur die Gurken fehlten.
      Dort suchten wir uns eine Unterkunft für eine Nacht, da es weiter nicht viel zu sehen gab. Der Nachmittag war sehr verregnet, also setzten wir uns in ein kleines Café und spielten Spiele. Der Inhaber machte noch etwas Musik mit seinem Didgeridoo und einem Cajon.
      Nach dem wir ausgeschlafen und gefrühstückt hatten machten wir uns aif den Weg zum Stadthafen. Dort entschieden wir uns für eine Fahrt mit der Fähre, da das die günstigste Möglichkeit war die Wasserstraßen zu erkunden und auch völlig ausreichend war. Nach unserer Bootsfahrt ging es mit dem Zug wieder weiter nach Trivandrum.
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    • Day 3

      Kochi

      December 22, 2022 in India ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Despite being woken up before dawn by the Muezzin calling people to prayer I slept well and late!

      After breakfast in the hotel..a mixed bag(!), we headed out to explore. We walked back to the coast near Fort Kochi, across the very smelly canal, and through the residential areas to the ferry landing. We bought a ticket for the ferry to take us across the busy straight to Vypin. The ferry was relatively modern but very chaotic but for 3 rupees (3p) we were about to travel with other pedestrians, mopeds, cars and lorries across the water. The journey itself took about 10 minutes!

      Once in the other side we disembarked and walked along the coast past some more fishermen using elaborate nets. This time we saw them in operation and could see that they were counterweighted with rocks held on with rope.

      We reached as far as we could go and do turned around and headed back to the ferry for the return trip.

      Once on the other side it was almost 12 and so with the sun almost past the yardarm we agreed that it was time for a beer in a nearby bar.

      Refreshed we negotiated an auto rickshaw ride to Matta cherry palace, an old Dutch palace with impressive murals. Having spent some time looking around it was by now very warm and so we wandered through the Jewish area (with lots of persistent shop keepers) before finding another sanctuary of a bar by the water for some refreshments.

      Sated, we did a bit more sightseeing in the Jewish area, including seeing the outside of the oldest synagogue in the commonwealth although we didn't go in. After this we decided that it was time to head back for a rest so we hailed an auto rickshaw to take us back to the hotel.

      After a break we had a beer in the hotel and a snack... Some spiced chicken. Later, we walked back to the port area for another drink and some food. This time we ate at the Brunton Boatyard, a smart hotel near the water. The good tasted good, although it was a little bony (!) And we also had a lovely bottle of Indian red wine, at least it was lovely once it has warmed up from fridge temperature.

      By now it was almost 10pm and so we tried to hail an auto rickshaw, without success. So we ended up walking the mile or so back to our hotel... Through residential alleyways... Despite the darkness, it didn't feel at all unsafe (unless you count having to continually avoid mopeds weaving through the narrow alleyways.

      Back at the hotel, it was definitely time to call it a day.... Tomorrow we meet our fellow travellers on the tour!
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    • Day 2

      Arrived in Kochi

      February 5 in India ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      Initial sleep deprived thoughts: So green, so many flowers, roads are insane, feeling overwhelmed with joy that we're here. Literally had a little cry on landing and in the taxi. Might also be the lack of sleep is helping add to that. HahaRead more

    • Day 134

      Cochin

      February 11 in India ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

      Am Morge simer no ufem Huusbot verwachet, hend z Morge gesse und sind den los richtig Cochin.

      In Cochin ah cho hemer no imne Strasselädeli in Chai gschlüürft bis mer hend chöne i checke.

      Am Namittag simer den zum Cochin Forth mit de Fähre, wo mer no Delfine gseh hend 🐬Jeannine het det es Healthy Caffi entdeckt - und mir hend nach dene 2 Täg mäste ufem Boot mal wieder öpis gsunds gesse. Aschlüssend hemer eus mitere Ayuverda massage richtig i Öle lah. Mir sind aschlüssend wie Pancakes gsi, wo mit Ahornsirup übergosse gsi sind.... aber d Massage isch super agnehm gsi☺

      All chli müed simer zrugg is Hotel und hend eus zum Film luege mal wieder mini Pizzas bstellt well, mer eifach kei Indisch meh hend chöne gseh... 😄
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    • Day 4

      Kochi

      December 23, 2022 in India ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Another late start: think I'm catching up with missed sleep. After breakfast we packed and checked out, although we left our bags in the hotel while we went to explore.

      We walked back towards the fort area and we're looking for the biennial arts festival that was opening today. It was based in the Aspinwall building and we timed our arrival for 11:00 a.m.. After a shortish queue we purchased our tickets and headed on in.

      It's fair to say that I probably don't appreciate art that much, but there were some interesting exhibits and the setting was what made it special. In typical Indian style the exhibition was late opening by a few days and yet when we went in, the things were not finished and there was still work going on! Nevertheless, it was good to see. There were also some great views out over the bay from the back of the building.

      After having our fill we decided to take a break and had a beer and a snack. We then walked back to our hotel and collected our bags before getting an auto rickshaw to the hotel, Hotel Abad, (https://www.abadhotels.com/m/fort-chullicakal-k…) where we would be starting our tour about 3km South.

      We checked in and then had another wander back up to the hotel Ginger where we'd had a drink the previous day. By now it was time to get an auto rickshaw back to the hotel for a shower before the welcome meeting at 6!

      After meeting 5 of the other 6 travellers on our tour, asking with the tour leader, Pooja, most of us went out for a meal. The journey was made in two tuk-tuks and was back up near the Chinese fishing nets. Not a cheap meal by Indian standards but the food was excellent and I ended up with a seafood platter.

      It was then a tuk-tuk ride back to our hotel to settle in for the night .. An earlier start awaits tomorrow!
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    • Day 5

      Kochi (Christmas Eve!)

      December 24, 2022 in India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      There is something slightly incongruous about being somewhere with Christmas trees (artificial), Christmas lights and 30 degrees heat. Can't work out yet whether it's a good thing it not although I'm definitely enjoying the break.

      We had an earlier start today with breakfast at 8 and then a guided tour which started at 9am. We went by tuk-tuk to the Dutch palace where we walked around the upper floor (yes we'd been here before) and had an explanation of some of the 300+ year old murals on the wall.

      Next we walked along the Jewish shopping street to the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth. We couldn't go on because it's Saturday.

      Walking back down the shopping street we then had tuk-tuks to the Fort Cochin area and walked around seeing the old Catholic church and also the oldest church in Kerala, originally built in the 16th century. The Catholic church was decked out in Christmas lights (which we saw later all lit up). The oldest church, At Francis, used to be the burial place of the Portuguese explorer, Vasco de Gama. (his body was moved soon after back to Lisbon for re-burial) Finally, for the walking tour, we went back to the Chinese fishing nets.

      Tour complete, we all headed to a local coffee shop where I had a fish burger and pineapple Lassi. It was now early afternoon and the group went their separate ways with Ed and me going for a refreshing beer! After a couple of drinks we caught an auto rickshaw back to her hotel for a shower and change grit the evenings activities.

      We met the group, including our final member, at 5.15 for a quick summary of tomorrow (Christmas day) before getting yet another tuk-tuk to a Kathacali performance. When we arrived the actors were having their make-up done on stage. Once complete the narrator gave an explanation of what we would see and the fact that the acting would all be by gesture and facial expression.

      The performance was impressive (if not a little too long) with two drummers and a narrator who sang! The whole thing took about 1.5 hours!

      From here we walked to a restaurant for dinner. (Kerala roast chicken for me) before a ride back home to the hotel for 10 pm. (Don't think Father Christmas is coming here, but you never know!) 😉🎅🌲
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    • Day 16

      Kochi

      March 20, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Heute Morgen haben wir Kochi entdeckt 😃 wir haben die Kirche besucht, in der Vasco Dagama begraben wurde, bevor seine Gebeine 14 Jahre später nach Portugal zurück gebracht wurde. Anschliessend waren wir am Strand und haben den Fischern dabei zugesehen, wie sie die Netze ins Wasser liessen und wieder rausholten. Die Technik haben sie anscheinend von den Chinesen.
      Danach waren wir in einer traditionellen Wäscherei und an einem Gewürzmarkt. Nach dem Besuch einer Synagoge & eines Museums sind wir mit Cocktail & Buch am Pool. Es ist wunderschönes Wetter und fast 33 grad warm 😍
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    • Day 111

      Kochi, India

      May 4, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

      Our second time in Kochi, India.
      For this time I decided to book something different. I booked Tuk-Tuk tour.
      As soon as the ship was cleared, we went thru custom (too long to describe the process in every Indian port) and met somebody from the tour company. The air conditioned car was waiting for us. After driving may 200 yards we were transferred to a Tuk-Tuk. It is basically three wheeled motorcycle with a cover on the top.
      The guide/driver introduced himself, but I forgot his name. He was very knowledgeable, unfortunately he spoke English very fast and with a heavy accent, so it was very hard to understand him, but we got few things.

      Kochi population is about 3 million. Kochi (also known as Cochin) is a city in southwest India's coastal Kerala state. It has been a port since 1341, when a flood carved out its harbor and opened it to Arab, Chinese and European merchants.
      After driving for a while thru a crazy traffic, we arrive at Dhoby Khana. It is a one of the oldest laundromats in India.

      The Dutch government brought 40 families for washing the Dutch army’s uniform in 1910. To this day 20 families members still working in this laundromat.
      Each family has their own laundry basin, ironing space and drying space. We met a sweet lady of 87 who is ironing in this laundromat for 70 years. She let me use her very heavy cast iron to do some ironing.

      Our second stop was Church is Saint Frances. Build in 1503 it is one of the oldest European churches in India. The Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gama died in Kochi in 1524 and was buried in this church. Later his body was transferred to Lisbon.

      Next stop is fish market. It’s located on the beach and the freshest fish right out of the water sold. Another attraction is Chinese fish nets.
      After walking for a while, we had much needed rest in the shade with coconut water right out of coconut.

      We also stopped at the very secret Jain temple that opens only few days a year. It’s sits in the middle of the pond that one can reach only in canoes when the temple is open. Different flowers are blooming all year around all year long.

      We stopped many times to witness everyday life of the people in various activities.

      Our next stop is a spice market and factory. Right in the middle of the yard is a field of ginger roasting in the sun. Then it will be ground into the powder. Then we went inside the building, the smell was amazing from pepper, cinnamon, curry, and all other varieties of fresh spices. To visit the market, we had to climb to second floor. Boris was already pretty tired, so we skipped it.
      We also visited Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica. It has a very long history of distraction and rebuilding.

      We looked at the Dutch cemetery.

      Another stop was Mattancherry Dutch Palace. Despite the name Dutch Palace, the palace was built by the Portuguese Empire as a gift to the Kingdom of Cochin.
      The glory of the palace rests on the large number of murals, executed in the best traditions of Hindu temple art, which are religious, decorative and stylised. The murals have been painted in rich warm colours in tempera technique.
      Unfortunately, photos were not allowed.

      After climbing very steep steps of the Dutch palace and touring it in a scorching heat, Boris was done, so we skipped the last stop….Paradasi Synagogue. We visited it in 2017. At that time there were 5 Jews living in Kochi. Now 4 remaining. The oldest one Sarah Cohen, who we met in 2017, died few year ago at the age of 96.
      This time we just stopped at the gates of Jewish cemetery and looked through the closed gate at her burial site.

      I probably mixed up some temples, sorry.
      We have so many.

      Now we were really ready to go back on the ship. After lunch,
      rest, shower and a dinner in specialty restaurant with friends, we are ready for the night.
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    • Day 197

      Kerala again

      December 4, 2022 in India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      we took a sleeper night bus back to Kochi. (Yes an actual bus with beds!) Could have been a wonderful trip but Celine ate something and was vomiting and shitting her soul out. Little did we know that the chauffeur wasn’t really a big fan of toilet stops…

      Once back in Kochi we enjoyed the chill vibe and one early morning we got up to get to the airport to fetch JASMIN. (forever travel companion number one ❤️)
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Fort Kochi, Fort Cochin

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