Celio

Today we set off walking and did at least 7 miles before the heat and humidity told us it was time for a break. We began the process of understanding this city as more than a map or a chapter in a travel guide. With this in mind we selected two sub-communities, separated by the Tiber River. Trastevere and the Jewish ghetto. Here we got to experience some of Rome's history that is not simply ancient monuments.

Trastevere retains the small single lane roads from the Middle Ages. Following a tip we looked for a sandwich place that features prosciutto-- WOW! This is nothing like what we get at Costco! A mixture of salt and fat that I have never experienced before. We will be eating here again before we leave Rome

We also found the Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of Rome's oldest church sites where Christians worshipped illegally until the year 313. Most of the church is from the 12 century -- very peaceful -- in a city like this it does not stand out, yet it is certainly a magnificent example of citizens expressing their devotion to faith. This is negatively contrasted by the ghetto where "Christian" leaders defined Jews as second class citizens and forced them to live in difficult conditions.
We walked through the section of town that was once the Jewish ghetto. In 1555 the pope forcibly moved all Jews to a confined space that became known as the Jewish ghetto. October 3rd, 1943 -- for the Roman Jews it was, to paraphrase Roosevelt "a day that will live in infamy " - the nazi's demanded 20 kilos of gold or they would deport Jews to concentration camps. It is reported that the citizens of Rome contributed their personal jewelry to pay the ransom -- and of course history reveals the deportation of Jews happened anyway.

As I said, it was hot and humid today. Thank goodness it is possible to drink water "from the tap." In fact there are water fountains everywhere that can be used to fill water bottles.Read more