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Mie

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    • Day 36

      Ise-shi

      October 14, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      The ryokan served a Japanese set breakfast on both mornings.
      Around Ise-shi, there were 125 shrines in an area the size of Paris. I walked to the Geku shrine which was set in parkland, and then two miles to the larger Naiku shrine, also in a large park. It was a festival day with large crowds, some in black, being supervised by stewards at the most important shinto shrine in Japan. The festival of Kamisso-sai was followed by the festival of Kanname-sai when the first rice was harvested.
      At one building, I saw priests performing a service at a distance, but I was unable to take photos of the main shrines and their distinctive rooves due to the high fences around the shrines keeping the crowds out.
      The trunks of some of the cryptomeria trees near the shrines were protected with cloth-coverings to stop pilgrims rubbing their hands on them.
      There was a wall of sake barrels which had been offered as gifts to the shrine by various locations.
      There was a long street leading up to the entrance of the Naiku Shrine (Ise-Jingu) called Okage-yokecho which was lined with shops and stalls. For a morning coffee, I went into the Cafe Cap Juby, and returned around lunchtime when it had started to rain. The cafe had dozens of LPs of rock bands and blues singers such as the Stones, the Eagles, Woody Guthrie, Otis Redding, Dylan, and Smokey Robinson plus Texas-Mexican border music. The owner was a guitarist who had played in a group.
      For lunch, I bought a steamed bun with Matsuzaka beef inside.
      It was raining steadily so I caught a taxi back to the ryokan to read about Alastair Cook's retirement from cricket on my laptop.
      The local restaurants were either shut or full so I bought some items from a supermarket for dinner back in the ryokan.
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    • Day 11

      Ise - was ist eigentlich Shinto?

      April 15, 2018 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      In Ise liegt seit 2000 Jahren der wichtigste Schrein Japans, der Isejingu, der eigentlich aus zwei Schreinen besteht, dem Naiku und dem 6 km entfernten Geiku. Im Naiku wird die Sonnengöttin Amaterasu verehrt, die wichtigste Gottheit Japans. Aber auch eine der drei Throninsignien, ein Spiegel aus dem 6.Jh, wird dort aufbewahrt. Er gilt als ebenso als Kami wie die Gottheit. Kami ist im Shinto etwas, das Ehrfurcht gebietet, also eine spirituelle Kraft hat. Diese spirituelle Kraft kann im engeren Sinne eine Gottheit sein, aber auch in einem Stein, einem Baum oder einem Schwert wohnen. Es gibt also eine unendliche Vielzahl an Kami. Die Religion ist insgesamt sehr undogmatisch. Es gibt keine Schrift, keinen Religionsgründer und keinen missionarischen Ansatz. Im Ursprung wurde sie von unterschiedlichen religiösen Praktiken vom Festland, z.B. Korea und China beeinflusst. Als der Buddhismus im 6. Jh. nach Japan kam wurde dieser zunächst abgelehnt, dann jedoch integriert. Im Zuge nationalistischer Strömungen kam es wieder zu einer Trennung beider Religionsformen. Ein Großteil der Japaner zählt heute zu Shinto-Gemeinden, besucht aber genauso buddhistische Tempel. Unser Guide in Tokyo meinte, er habe noch nie Japaner über Religion diskutieren hören. Zu freudigen Anlässen wie Geburt oder Hochzeit gehe man zum Shinto-Schrein, für mit Tod verbundene Anlässe zum buddhistischen Tempel.
      Was Shinto letztlich ausmacht, sind bestimmte Merkmale und Riten: In jedem Schrein ist ein Gegenstand, der von einem Kami bewohnt wird. Diesen bekommen die Gläubigen aber nie zu sehen. Der heilige Bereich eines Schreins wird durch ein torii, ein Tor, markiert. Der Schrein oder auch andere heilige Dinge werden durch Schnüre und weiße Zacken vor bösen Geistern beschützt. Bestimmte Tiere dienen als Götterboten oder sind Verkörperungen der Götter, häufig sind es Füchse, Kröten oder Pferde. Vor Betreten des Schreins waschen sich die Gläubigen Hände und Gesicht, dann beten sie am Schrein. Zunächst wird aber etwas geopfert, eine Münze oder Nahrungsmittel, von der Schale Reis bis zum abgepackten Fertigessen. Ein Gebet hat immer den gleichen Ablauf: Man verbeugt sich zweimal, klatscht zweimal in die Hände, spricht seine Wünsche, verbeugt sich wieder und geht. Oft kann man zu Beginn auch eine Glocke schlagen. Vor dem Schrein gibt es alle möglichen Glücksbringer und Weissagungen zu kaufen. Sind die Voraussagungen negativ, knotet man sie im Schrein an etwas dran. Sind sie gut, behält man sie. Sehr pragmatisch!
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    • Day 40

      Ise Shrine

      April 22, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      On Saturday I went to Ise-Shrine with my friends. We didn't spend much time at the shrine itself, but we made a wish, which I hope will come true. Most of the time, we ate lots of tasty foods, which are typical for Ise :)Read more

    • Day 12

      Day 11: Flat tyre … and other problems 😅

      March 27 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      11:15 am: We left way behind schedule, but cycling well for 20k, nice weather, beautiful landscapes, cedar & cypress cut trees on the way
      12:15am: Flat tyre rear of the yellow bike 🚴 😱, nightmare. Pierre repairs it in a tiny little village in the middle of nowhere
      2:30pm: Pierre has problem to put back the tyre on the bike… first curious villagers passing by …
      3:00pm: words of mouth spread quickly in the tiny village and people thinking what the hell is going on.. a few phone calls until ..
      3:30pm: the man with the yellow hat is coming to help fix the situation and it helped quite a lot ! Tyre is back but one of the break is down.
      5pm: people from the neighborhood brought cakes sweets and drinks for us. super nice and kind of them 🙏
      7pm : wonderful dinner and onsen at guest house..
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    • Day 18

      Day 17: Sakura as fireworks 🎆

      April 2 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      While waiting for the bike shops in Wakayama to open, we took a day of break and we went back on our steps, this time by car. Sakura as fireworks 🎆 all around, finally discovering Yoshino valley and its thousands of cherry trees. Of course not for free in terms of phisical effort 🥵 ⛰️ Special mention to Green Lodge Inn where we decided to spend (again) the night but this time with Sakura full bloom from our window 🪟 :) Magic 🪄Read more

    • Day 10

      Day 9: Ferry !

      March 25 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      Arriving (finally) at Irago cape under a mild but annoying rain ☔️. Not the weather to stop and enjoy the nice canola flowers along the road. Ferry ⛴️ ! Staying at a very classy ryokan with onsen with garden view. Children loved their yukata 👘! Very delicious restaurant, row fish 🐟 was soooo good here 🔝Read more

    • Day 11

      Day 10: Hurricane Alert

      March 26 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

      This morning, one of us (guess who) was hesitating in getting on the bikes with a hurricane 🌀 alert 🚨 and heavy rain 🌧️… but one of us convinced (with coffee) the group to leave our warm ryokan. After a long wet & drying stop in Ise, we saw the first Sakura 🌸 in the Ise Jingu Shrine and our first ray of
      sun in three days ⛅️ along the road passing through the beautiful old villages of Taki district…
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    • Day 3

      Toba

      May 10, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Keine Ahnung warum wir hier stoppen. Eine kleine unspektakuläre Stadt. Zu Fuß erkunde ich den Ort, besuche zwei Tempel und trinke einen Tee. Natürlich muss ich mich auch um meine Arbeit kümmern. Ist ja doch etwas anders als auf der Muddi (Europa).
      Aber die Kabine ist wesentlich schöner und moderner. Und mit Fenster. 👍
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    • Day 10

      Der Jäger des verlorenen Schreins

      January 27, 2020 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

      Nagoya hat ja nicht mehr soviel zu bieten, deswegen geht's heute ca. 80km weiter südlich direkt ans Meer (auch wenn ich es bislang noch nicht erblicken konnte) nach Ise.
      In Ise steht ein (Trommelwirbel 🥁) ein Schrein. Welch Wunder.
      Nach ca. 1 Std. Im Zug steigen ich Iseshi aus und habe noch einen ca. 4km weiten Weg zu Fuss vor mir.
      Es regnet durchgehend und die Straßen sind größtenteils leer.
      Ganz in der Nähe des Schreins fängt das Gewusel an. Überall Regenschirme in etlichen Farben, vor wiegen aber modisch transparent.
      Der Weg geht weiter über die "Okage Yokocho" eine Straße mit sehr penetrantem Fischgeruch, Imbissständen und kleinen Souvenirläden.
      Der Menge nach gehts über die "Uji Bridge" zur Schreinanlage. Auf dem Parkplatz stapeln sich die Reisebusse. Das Durchschnittsalter jenseits der 60.
      Die Anlage ist relativ unspektakulär.
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    • Day 5

      Pilgrimage trails & naked baths

      March 27, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Today we went to explore some of the pilgrimage routes scattered throughout the area. Our route started with a steep climb through some very old cedar trees (a few were 800 years old!). It was a welcomed change of pace from the busyness of Tokyo.

      The top of the climb came out at the buddist temple - while we were seemingly at the top there was still plenty of more hiking and stone stairways to climb! Thanks to my expert navigation we got to climb up and back down a fun hill.. successfully wiping the group out early 😅 we pushed through and made it down to the falls - the tallest single drop waterfall in Japan!

      After a full day of hiking we all had a quiet ride back home on the local train - definitely looking forward to another fantastic dinner.

      Before we grabbed dinner mom and I worked up the courage to check out the traditional onsen baths at the hotel - nothing like a naked hot spring bath filled with strangers to help you relax. Nerve-wracking as it was it was a great experience and really not so bad. The baths are separated male and female. You're given a normal size and a very small towel before entering your side. In the locker room you strip - definitely no bathing suits allowed (or tattoos which are considered a sign of violence because of the stigma around tattoos and gangs). You take your tiny towel and strut into the shower area where you fully wash, hair and all, before heading into the baths - its important for overall cleanliness of the baths. Once in there there were multiple baths to choose from, some the real deal - coming from hot springs, others are more like hot tubs with salt/coals added. Some were indoor, others outside under the mountains. All were steaming hot and I could only stay in for a few minutes each. Luckily it wasn't very busy so it was pretty comfortable to walk around in the nude - overall everyone just owned it and was polite/kept to themselves. Another rule of the onsen - never let your little towel fall in the water - most people carry them around on their head. After cleaning up on the way out we could relax in the lounge area and have a cool drink - I tried the apple milk. All in all I'm very happy we tried it and wouldn't mind doing it again. Definitely worth trying if given the chance!

      Now relaxed from the baths, we went on to dinner in our traditional robes. It was just as tasty as the night before with another whole set of courses! My favorite was the tempura fish and veggies, and the beef sashimi.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Mie-ken, Mie, 三重県, 미에 현

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