Japan
Tokushima

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    • Day 10

      Shikoku

      September 11, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      Shikoku, die kleinste der Hauptinseln, ist unser nächstes Ziel. Raus aus der Stadt, rein in die Natur. Zumindest haben wir das vorher so gelesen - und es bestätigt sich voll und ganz.

      Nachdem wir das Hostel in Kyoto, das uns sehr gut gefallen hat, verlassen haben, steigen wir am Hauptbahnhof in den Zug. Je näher wir dem Ziel kommen, desto kleiner werden die Bahnhöfe und die Orte. Die letzten Kilometer führt die Bahnlinie direkt oberhalb der Oboke-Schlucht entlang,mit schönen Ausblicken auf den Fluss.
      Angekommen in Awa-Kawaguchi werden wir am Bahnhof schon erwartet. Zwei Mitarbeiterinnen des Guest House Momonga, in dem wir 2 Nächte bleiben, holen uns mit dem Auto ab. Sie fahren uns zuerst zum Supermarkt (das hatten sie uns empfohlen) und dann zum Guest House. Das liegt recht einsam oberhalb des Flusses. Wunderschön ruhig und ein totaler Kontrast zu den Städten.

      Den restlichen Tag verbringen wir mit einem kurzen Spaziergang und einem japanischem Abendessen, in der Unterkunft, leckeres Teriyaki Chicken.
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    • Day 7

      Sunday rest day

      March 17 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      After just 3 days of walking it seems a little early to take a rest day but I actually need it.

      I have a chance to download Shogun the book and start in on it and I have some homework that I brought along on my tablet so it'll be very productive and I can get the next lodgings figured out.

      I just can't be all business, on the way to the station I run into this Sunday morning market in this little town Kamojima where I'm staying and they're playing some nice jazz that just morphed into Japanese jazz, it's excellent. They have some food trucks out and people are mulling about, there will be some live music later. It's the twist in the road that brings you to the unexpected surprise. The local sushi is melt in your mouth good.

      I board the train and end up at Vie de France again. I spend some time there researching the great nature parks in Japan. Once at the hostel I take my old man nap, har. Agnes is here and Ina too, this hostel is the hub for Henro. I had found a great lively restaurant close by and decide to return there. I had a super great time with the locals.
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    • Day 8

      Temples 20 21 and 22

      March 18 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

      I'm going to skip walking through the city and dash on the bus to the trail that leads to Temple 20. Agnes had figured that one out and I'm tagging along for the ride. Unfortunately we have different speeds hiking so we walk together in the beginning but then Fredric a French guy caught up with us and I walk with him and say goodbye to Agnes. Fredric is wheezing so I end up dashing off.

      It is a good climbing day today through the woods on super nice trails. The clouds disappear, the sun comes out, it never really gets warm but it is a glorious day. I run into Christian from Denmark and we are the same speed so we walk to Temple 21 which is an absolutely amazing place with tons of great energy, very large cedar trees and a very well laid out temple. If you could only visit one temple this would be the one.

      Our conversations flow naturally and reach some depth which is really refreshing, he has been studying Japan for a long time. This is a dream for him to be here.

      We dash off to Temple 22 but we take the longer route of two possibles so we do a little extra work. Christian goes to his hostel and I go to the train station and get saved by a Lawson convenience store where I get some food and drink for the train ride. I'm trying to get back to the place I booked for tonight.

      My Japanese hosts are very nice but I think they forgot to give me the control for the heater. So I'm absolutely freezing inside and I go down to the kitchen and figure out the Japanese remote and turn the heat on in my room. Japan is a very wet country and it doesn't take much to feel cold, for me at least.
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    • Day 10

      Hiwasa rest day

      March 20 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

      I walk down the coastal road to the hole in the rock. A small path leads all the way down to the water. It's sunny and much warmer, at least it feels that way. I enjoy that moment. The Onsen last night was great and I meditated. I'm relaxed.

      Back in town I visit the next temple, number 23. It's peaceful. It starts raining. It is solo all the way today. A cup of miso soup warms me up. I leave my bag at the hostel and I'm on my way to the public Onsen. Time to get warm again.

      I check in to Ichi hostel and I recognize this pair of boots. It's Agnes again. So we're comparing notes and photos and we'll go out to dinner again. Just the short walk is so windy and nasty we arrive stone cold. They have no room for us, Agnes la Francaise, raises a minor stink and they figure out that she is very hungry and they make space in a corner. Then we are served a fantastic meal.

      I have my plans set all the way to Kochi. One night so far, but there is a lot there and I could stay a second night.
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    • Day 11

      Coastal road walk

      March 21 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

      I had breakfast of savory dishes that I bought the day before at the market down the street. Agnes and a Japanese traveler were having a conversation. I started out just after 9 and arrived at 5, but it was supposed to be a sub 6 hour walk. The pack felt heavier than I was happy with and once at the hostel I did a triage. Maybe I can go to my day pack with further minimalized gear. I bet I can lose 2kg. Then I'll leave the rest at a storage place.
      Today I met the Australian named Nick, who I had passed on the downhill between 20 and 21. He is married to a Japanese woman, Takara. He is a trove of information on Japan so the conversation was worth walking slowly for. It was relaxing.

      The hostel provided me with a private room with a full view of the bay. It's quiet, I have some leftover Mizo to cook with cabbage. I'm still listening to Shogun.
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    • Day 20

      Day 19: a new beginning :)

      April 4 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Our day started with absolutely no idea whether we would be able to continue our trip or not, as the new bike has no easy system to attach the cart 🛒, no bicycle basket 🧺 or luggage rack or child seat …). Pierre miraculously found a suitable piece of metal for the cart in “Brico” while Ellie was keeping the two “hurricanes” busy in the Indigo dyeing museum. Back on the bikes (with even less luggages)! And then immediately riding until an extraordinary place with thousands of weeping Sakura trees and meeting with a Belgo-Japanese family living in the regionRead more

    • Day 21

      Day 20: Smoothly, with nice bread 🥖

      April 5 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      After having dropped the idea of biking until Mount Tsurugi (no open guest houses and ropeway still closed and some of us happier than others ✌️), finally we got a very well deserved smooth day with beautiful mountain ⛰️ landscapes, weeping Sakura trees and a remote bakery with super good bread 😋 . Plus, we “filed the corners” of our cart system in an unexpected way 🤭Read more

    • Day 23

      Day 22: Marvelous Iya Valley

      April 7 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Iya river, beautifully meandering in a beautiful valley, surrounded by mountains 🏔️, with a Mannekenpis 🤷‍♀️ peeing down and trying to reach the river, with a surrealist ropeway going down into an open air natural onsen and with an impressive liana bridge… Feeling in a fairy land 🧚🏼Read more

    • Day 5

      Letztes Training

      August 22, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Heute war das letzte mal Randori vor der WM. Es lief schon viel besser als am Tag davor. Man merkt noch, dass es in Deutschland erst 4 Uhr morgens ist, wenn man auf der Matte steht und seine erholte Gegnerin anschaut 😅 doch dafür sind wir ja so früh angereist. Nun geht es morgen weiter nach Tokio 👏🏼Read more

    • Day 666

      A bridge made of vines

      July 8, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Given that we had no car, our exploration plans had to be adjusted somewhat. Our ryokan was very near a famous bridge in the Iya Vally called the Kazurabashi bridge. It is made of vines. These bridges, of which there used to be 13, which crisscrossed the remote, misty gorges of the Iya Valley allowed fleeing bandits to cross the gorge while easily cutting them down to make it impossible to reach them. No one really knows when or why the bridges were built. The theory about fleeing bandits and refugees is supported by the fact that many defeated warriors fled to this valley to escape persecution. The other theory is more supernatural and offers that Kobo-Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddahism, created the bridges.

      Now there are only 3 remaining bridges. Because of the ole car debacle, we could not reach the bridges I most wanted to see, but it turns out I was fine with this because the Kazurabashi bridge, at 150 ft long and 4 1/2 stories above the water with planks set 8 inches apart was enough for me. I don't really care that much for heights and having to cross this swaying vine bridge was wreaking havoc on my anxious, nauseous tummy. If I wasn't in public, I probably would have belly-crawled across. But, pride made me suck it up and pretend I was uber-cool and chill when I was quaking in my boots. While I was reading about these bridges, one crosser was quoted as saying, "You never think a vine bridge is that scary until you cross one and shit a brick."

      Yep.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Tokushima-ken, Tokushima, 徳島県, 도쿠시마 현

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