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Kevin EslerKevin Esler
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Expatriate Australian retired software engineer Read more Bedford, Massachusetts
  • Caminho Português
    3
    113111
    Day 20

    Santiago de Compostela

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    An 8km final day, mainly up hill! We started late to avoid the drizzle and were partially successful. Our ponchos did get an outing. While short, the walk was quite hard. Final few kms through the suburbs of Santiago as we sought a glimpse of the Cathedral, then we arrived via the alley ways of the central city. Lots of fellow pilgrims arriving. Photos then off to get our official parchment of completion, a proud possession. Found our rather cosy room nearby, then a quick visit to the Cathedral to embrace the Apostle James and light some candles. A late lunch and celebratory libation. We’ll attend the Pilgrim Mass at 7.30pm.Read more

  • Caminho Português
    112
    Day 19

    Milladoiro

    April 29 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    An 18km uphill trek today, surprisingly perfect conditions, we removed layers as we went. From Padrón we started in brisk sunny air along a river, took a coffee break at 4km then went through back village lanes, almost alleys, but a real insight into the local ways with vines and gardens mixed in with houses and small enterprises. Achieved our 2nd daily stamp at a Marian shrine, then it was into climbing hills through various villages, forests, chooks, goats and home produce gardens. A steep final 4 km with a welcome lunch at Milladoiro. Found our very snazzy 2 bedroom 2 bathroom apartment just off the Caminho, which made the arduous check-in worthwhile. Now for an ale waiting for a restaurant to open at 8.30. On to Santiago tomorrow, ponchos at the ready.Read more

  • Caminho Português
    422211
    Day 18

    Padrón

    April 28 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    A rest day: a boat ride up the river, then a 3km walk.

    We had some breakfast in our rooms and headed down to the port area to board the 8am boat to Padrón.

    It was about a 90 minute ride, very chilly at times and very foggy as we got further upriver.

    The guide on the boat told us how mussels are farmed in the estuary of the Ulla River. There are large wooden platforms with many ropes dangling below. The ropes are seeded with baby mussels from the ocean. They cling to the ropes, grow to maturity and are harvested. All family businesses.

    Just before reaching the destination we passed through a particularly beautiful wetlands area, a nature reserve.

    On arrival we warmed up in the nearest coffee shop, before walking about 3km into central Padrón.

    We wandered through an enormous outdoor market, attended Mass at the church of Santiago and then checked into our apartment very close by.

    Tomorrow being a big walk day, we took it easy for the rest of the afternoon.    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Day 17

    Vilanova de Arousa

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    A short day, 8km, in unexpectedly fine weather

    We slept late and made breakfast from things we bought in the supermarket last night.

    Leaving the apartment just before the noon checkout time, we walked along the waterfront in Cambados and then just followed the shoreline to Vilanova de Arousa.

    It was just 8km and we arrived about 2pm. Access to our rooms was provided by a key box. The owner sent us the combination through the Booking.com app. The apartment is very comfortable and is just a few minutes from where we catch the boat upriver to Padrón tomorrow morning.

    We had expected a rainy day but it was fine all the way, with a brief shower just as we arrived.

    Mostly a day of rest today. Boat leaves at 8am tomorrow.    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    112
    Day 16

    Cambados

    April 26 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    14km day, all downhill and beautiful, with some light rain.

    The bar serving breakfast in Armenteira opens at 9:30am so we made a late start. With rain predicted we donned long pants and warmer gear.

    By 10am we had eaten and were walking again.

    The Camino route down from Armenteira is delightful. It is a steep dirt track following the babbling river Armenteira. It was 4km of waterfalls, rushing water and lush mossy green forest. We passed about 3 dozen old abandoned grain mills, all made of stone and beautifully dilapidated.

    Eventually the slope lessened and we continued beside the river through beautiful forest along a broad dirt track.

    The track crossed a highway so we stopped for lunch at the excellent Restobar Peneira.

    Rain started as we left there but did not get very heavy. We donned ponchos for about an hour.

    The route continued downstream along the river Armenteira until it joins the river Umia, which we followed upstream into Ponte Arnelas. We passed lots of lush farmland planted with various vegetable crops and the ubiquitous grapes.

    In Ponte Arnelas we stopped for a cold drink and phoned for a taxi to Cambados. It is off the Camino route. We were unable to find a room in Ponte Arnelas.

    We’d planned to taxi back tomorrow and rejoin the official route to our next stay at Vilanova de Arousa but the direct walk from Cambados to there looks pleasant, along the coast so we will probably do that.

    After gaining entry to our apartment the rain picked up quite a bit so tomorrow could be soggy.

    One priority here is to replenish our Euro supply. We just had enough to cover the taxi fare. His credit card device only accepted Spanish cards.    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    1
    Day 15

    A Armenteira

    April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A 22km day with a very tough 450m elevation climb, but a great variety of quiet rural scenery.

    We left our digs at Acolá Rooms before 8 and found a bar within meters offering the perfect hiker’s breakfast: fresh OJ, caffe con leche and two slabs of toast with jam.

    Then it was off over the Ponte do Burgo, a broad pedestrian bridge coinciding with the Camino route. The city looks impressive from the bridge.

    We joined a stream of pilgrims heading out of town and were soon in quite rural areas.

    Just after 3km we took a left turn on the somewhat lesser travelled route, the so called Spiritual Variant. Most pilgrims keep going straight ahead to Padrón.

    We were pleased to see a few others taking our route, and to see it was a well marked route too.

    The walk to Combarro was quite beautiful through backroads and lanes past many small vineyards and gardens.

    We stopped just before Combarro for an excellent lunch, seafood salad and lamb moussaka, fuel for the climb. Then on into town and around the water front area.

    Eventually the route turned uphill away from the water. We climbed very steeply through the maze of streets in the town.

    What followed was a mix of beautiful rising paths through tall eucalyptus forest, dirt fire trails and sealed road. There were great views back to Pontevedra at a couple of points, and lots of forestry harvesting activity.

    We summited at about the 19km mark. The descent into A Armenteira was along fire trails at first and finally a narrow rocky goat track where the poles were necessary to avoid falling.

    We found our place (another climb) a fairly oddly laid out and furnished apartment, and performed the usual arrival rituals.

    Weather has turned cold and maybe wet, we’re breaking out new ensembles.

    Now off to the only eatery in town for some grub.    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    11111
    Day 14

    Pontevedra

    April 24 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    22km with two tough climbs away from and back to sea level, in cooler shadier conditions.

    We were up early today to leave Redondela at sunrise which was about 7:40am.

    We deferred breakfast to the town of Arcade at about the 7km mark to get a jump on the longish walk.

    The walk to Arcade took us on mostly dirt tracks up over a hill of about 150m. At times the track was very steep. Lots of the route was through beautiful shady eucalyptus forest.

    We had a most welcome breakfast at the first place we saw in Arcade: juice, cafe con leche, avocado, egg and almonds on toast.

    Resuming the walk we did a similar climb again to about 150m, followed by a much more gentle descent into greater Pontevedra. We passed through some very picturesque farms on the hillsides on the way down.

    Then it was 6km or so along a lovely shaded path following the River Gafo well into the city of Pontevedra.

    We stopped at a bar for a late lunch of bocadillos and Cokes Zero before covering the final 2km to our room at Acolá Rooms in the city center. It’s a big city of 80,000 people. Lots going on as we walked through on a work day.

    After a rest and a shower, bodies remain functional and have found their way to a neighbourhood square with amber muscle relaxant.    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    1
    14
    Day 13

    Redondela

    April 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    17km including >400m elevation. An early start with quite a few fellow pilgrims. We quickly left the city of O Porriño and trekked through rural areas in quite crisp but sunny conditions. Our first stop after about 5km was at Mos, where church and surrounds were in recently cut stone. Coffee and juice fortified us for a long climb up over the ridge, on roads and through forest. A feature is the extent of small vineyards and produce fields associated with houses, and stone construction everywhere. We had a steep decline into Redondela, stopped for a simple lunch, then had an early check-in and rest.Read more

  • Caminho Português
    111
    Day 12

    O Porriño

    April 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    An 18km day in beautiful weather and varied terrain. It’s good to be back in Galicia.

    We left our apartment at 8:50am and followed the riverbank before rejoining the official Camino route out of town.

    It was quite cool, requiring a jacket for perhaps 20 minutes. We were very soon in a very rural area and crossed some ancient Roman bridges.

    Then there was about an hour through beautiful tall forest, partly eucalyptus, walking on a well graded dirt path. A magical place, enhanced near St Elmo’s bridge of fevers by a bagpipe player. There is a very old Celtic culture in Galicia.

    After the forest we entered the village of Ribadelouro and had coffee and cake in a beautiful brand new coffee shop.

    The terrain is much more undulating than what we’ve seen, but nothing very steep so far.

    Some more walking through very quiet rural areas brought us to the edge of O Porriño. From there it was a pretty hot 5km slog in hot sun, with a welcome break in the middle for a lunch of tortilla, salad and Kaz Naranja Zero.

    We found our apartment a bit beyond the center of town. Entry was effected by the remote control of the owner and was a bit tricky, requiring her to send a video clip to us over WhatsApp to demo the correct technique.

    The place is small but very comfortable and big view from its 6th floor balcony.

    Cleaned up , laundered and went in search of further knee supplements and hop-based thirst remedies. The search was successful.    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    115
    Day 11

    Tui

    April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    16km.

    A slow start after our big day yesterday, a hearty hotel breakfast then we headed north-east along the Portuguese bank of the Minho River, with Spain always in sight. Our vista was very pleasant. Temp rose from 13c to 25c with strong sun, testing us a bit, 16km had seemed easy! Regular drink stops, we had coffee and juice at Bar de S. Paio, and trudged on to Valença, lunch options limited on a Sunday, had cafeteria snack then final push across the river border into Tui, Spain. Settled into our apartment, with a very welcome bier provided.Read more

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