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Caminho Português
  • Kevin Esler
  • David Friedlieb
April 2024

Caminho Português

Two old friends from Albury walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 12, 2024
    Caminho Português
    Moov HotelBreakfast in Oriente2Dave looking fresh after 29 hours travel1Dinner

    Lisbon

    Apr 12–13, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Dave and Kevin met in Lisbon today. We will travel to Porto tomorrow, stay overnight, and then start walking north to Santiago.

    Dave had a 29 hour trip from home in Australia and is jet lagged. Kevin is better off after his brief 5+ hour hop from Boston.

    Today after meeting at the airport we walked to the Moov Hotel in the Oriente district. Later a brief visit to the huge Decathlon shop nearby to buy hiking poles and shorts. We hoped to dine at the well reviewed “Esta no papo” but it was too early. We made do with sandwiches and beers in a fairly seedy bar nearby.

    The weather is expected to be warm and sunny for the next week or more so we are looking forward to the walk in good conditions.

    Stayed: Moov Hotel Lisboa Oriente    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Azulejo wall on the Chapel of Souls2Douro River from cathedral

    Porto

    April 13, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We woke pretty early after a good sleep. Just after 7am we headed out for a walk in search of coffee along the Rio Tejo toward the Vasco da Gama tower.

    Not much opens before 8am it seems. So we looped back to the train station area and had a light breakfast there just after 8am at Jeronymo’s on the main plaza.

    Back to the hotel then, we showered, packed and walked to the bus station. The 10:10am FlixBus got us to Porto by about 1:30pm.

    The route was a good 4-lane freeway through farmland. Lots of olive trees and tall slender eucalyptus groves.

    On arrival in Porto we walked the 3km to our hotel, stopping off for a very good lunch (falafel sandwich & shakshouka) in a Middle Eastern place in a very busy part of town.

    Our hotel is opposite the Trindade metro station.

    In the evening we took the metro down to the Cathedral where we need to collect our credencial tomorrow to officially start our “caminhada”.

    After a stroll through the very steep and labyrinthine back streets of old Porto we found a place to dine: octopus with a good local (Douro) red wine.

    Stayed: Hotel Porto Interface Trindade By Kavia    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Old Porto from the Cathedral"Street" down to river level1Approaching MatosinhosBeach at Matosinhos (cruise terminal in the background)3Port in (greater) PortoPort in (greater) Porto

    Matosinhos

    Apr 14–15, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    An 11km day, all flat along the water.

    A gentle start, brekkie recommended by gendarmes nearby, packed and off to the 12th century cathedral, obtained our stamped Caminho credentials, attended Mass with full choir, then took narrow lanes downhill to the River Douro.

    We turned right, fought the wild crowds along the river for about 5km and stopped for lovely lunch. Further along river and another right turn to follow the Atlantic and Porto’s western beaches north, weather perfect, lots of beach goers and a few swimmers and board riders. Beaches very wide and quite crowded.

    Now in our micro studio contemplating the beach and maybe a swim. Probably a small ale to follow. . . the first large one.
    A long day tomorrow an early start planned. Day One completed!

    After unpacking we returned to the beach and had a swim. The water was clean and clear, with a nice regular 2 foot swell and the water temperature a brisk 14.5c.

    Stayed: Fishtail Sea House    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    1On the trackBoardwalk1Seeing more Caminho signageBoardwalkFish salting tubs made by the RomansShoe adjustmentSand slowing our progressEntering Vila do Conde11

    Vila do Conde

    April 15, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    A full sized day at 24km.

    We left Matosinhos at 8:30am and did 6km before stopping for breakfast at Cabo do Mundo. It took about 40 minutes to get out of Matosinhos and onto the ocean promenade.

    Most of the rest of the day was walking on wooden boardwalks over the dunes behind the beach with wonderful views of the ocean.

    Towards the end the sand had shifted to cover up the boardwalk so we had to slog through deep sand for a few stretches.

    The weather was sunny and perfectly clear with a cooling breeze, making for excellent walking conditions.

    We had lunch and a foot airing at Vila Chã, in a bar/bakery. Kev ordered a “Cachorro da Padaria” not knowing how big the thing was. With Dave’s help we did it justice.

    Then it was about 8km to Vila do Conde. We passed the very long and wide beach south of town where lots of surfers were enjoying the nice regular swell rolling in.

    We’ve checked in to Hotel Brazão near the centre of town.

    After getting clean and washing clothes we dined on some big prawns cooked in garlic, washed down with the house vinho verde. It was a tiny family run restaurant, Adega do Testas.

    Stayed: Hotel Brazão    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Póvoa de Varzim
    Coffee stopRed shirt dayEucalyptus forest just before FãoGood wine from Alentejo region

    Fão

    April 16, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Another full size day at 22km, near perfect weather and flat.
    A wholesome brekkie at our hotel then on the path at 8.00am. Planned a break for coffee around 7km but nothing open until after 8km, then coffee but no snack. Carried on past multiple market gardens and greenhouses to Apulia, was pretty warm and cobblestone roads were tough on feet. A basic late lunch and on to Fao via rustic farm lanes. Revised plan for a few days time, we’re going well. Our Fao boarding house has a pool, looks enticing.

    Stayed: The Spot Hostel Ofir    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Fão1Outside wall of houseIn Marinhas on a green shirt daySt Michael's, Marinhas1In BelinhoDave feeling at home under a gum tree2...with view.

    Castelo da Neiva

    April 17, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A 16km day nearly all inland, hot sun and some cobblestones, and one small climb.

    We had breakfast at our hostel, The Spot Ofir, and then an hour’s walk along the river Cávado.

    Setting out at 9:30 and had a few foot rest stops. We detoured along the beach as much as was possible, maybe 3km.

    Lunch at the 9km mark in Belinho was a “tosta mista” and a Coke at a bakery.

    Another 6 circuitous kms led us to where Google maps said our place was but it was not marked and took some finding behind a large unmarked locked gate. At the 3pm check-in time I phoned the owner and he provided a combination to get us in.

    The place is quite a nice apartment with a balcony overlooking a lush garden.

    The fridge has breakfast supplies too and we can make coffee.

    A short day but not as easy as expected. Great to have space to spread out in tonight.

    After cleaning up and a rest we dined at Restaurante Encosta do Monte, 500 up the hill, on the recommendation of the owner. Good grub, good value.

    Stayed: Quintinha do Periqueiro    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    1

    Viana do Castelo

    Apr 18–19, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    About 16k today and mostly off piste.

    We left our apartment about 9:30 after a continental brekkie and decided to follow the beach to our next stop, rather than the more inland official route.

    This required a bit of bush bashing early on to get into Amorosa for coffee but was far more scenic.

    We walked the last half along the packed sand just beyond the waves, including removing boots and socks to cross a stream. Water was very nice. Lunch of fillet fish. Then an inland detour on the south bank of the river Lima to cross the bridge into the town of Viana. A comparatively snazzy hotel. David had swim and sauna downstairs.

    Good dinner nearby of grilled squid and salad.

    Stayed: AP Dona Aninhas    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Bridge to beach
    Approaching Praia do ÂncoraApproaching Praia do Âncora11

    Vila Praia do Âncora

    April 19, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A 20km day, much of it near the beach. Our last day hugging the coast.

    After a good buffet breakfast at our hotel, AP Dona Aninhas, it was a 20 minute walk across town to the beach to the north.

    8km further was a coffee stop right off the beachside path.

    The track left the beach and climbed a headland at one point.

    After a dire (forgivable) navigation error by Kevin, incurring an unpleasant 2km trudge along a highway we found a lunch spot, Camarão, within sight of our goal, Vila Praia do Ancora.

    A couple of km later we were checking into Hotel Meira. Looks good.

    Stayed: Hotel Meira    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Mouth of the Minho. That peak is in Spain.
    Seaside chapel for St Isidore, patron saint of software engineersIrish blokes negotiating a water taxi across to A Guarda in Spain2Welcome lunch break in Esqueiro

    Vila Nova de Cerveira

    Apr 20–21, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A long day at 24km in warm dry conditions.

    We left our hotel after a hearty buffet breakfast. It was a delicious 14 Celsius as we proceeded up beside the beaches.

    Soon the mouth of the
    Minho River came into view . It forms the border with Spain. A big mountain looms over the inlet from the Spanish side. A big old fort, presumably Spanish sits on an island right at the mouth of the river.

    We walked about 10k to Caminha, situated a bit upstream on the Portuguese side. There was a very pleasant section through tall forest as we approached the south bank of the Minho.

    At the bank a water taxi service was available to take pilgrims directly across into Spain if they are walking the coastal route to Santiago.

    We farewelled some Irish blokes we’d met here and headed inland into Caminha proper for a juice and coffee. It was a long walk around the riverbank to get there.

    After our coffee we continued another 14km upstream on the south bank of the Minho. It was a pretty long hot trudge in 24C temps and not a lot of shade. In much of it were on an “ecopista” bike/foot path right beside the river. Fairly scenic at times.

    We found a restaurant open just uphill from the Esqueiro train stop and had some lunch.

    Finally reached our digs 2km beyond the town of Vila Nova de Cerveira about 6pm. It’s the Initel hotel.

    Washing, buffet dinner and off to bed. Next few days are shorter. Tomorrow we cross the river near Valença into Spain.

    Stayed: INATEL Cerveira Hotel    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Tui cathedral
    Banks of the MinhoIt's everywhere (Patterson's Curse, Riverina Bluebell)TuiThe TaperiaShrine in Tui backstreet

    Tui

    April 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    16km.

    A slow start after our big day yesterday, a hearty hotel breakfast then we headed north-east along the Portuguese bank of the Minho River, with Spain always in sight. Our vista was very pleasant. Temp rose from 13c to 25c with strong sun, testing us a bit, 16km had seemed easy! Regular drink stops, we had coffee and juice at Bar de S. Paio, and trudged on to Valença, lunch options limited on a Sunday, had cafeteria snack then final push across the river border into Tui, Spain. Settled into our apartment, with a very welcome beer provided.

    Apartamento Tui, Casa da Barca    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Excellent coffee shop, RibadelouroLocal issue in Ribadelouro. (Rough translation seems to be "save the forests")St Elmo’s Ponte de Febres (bridge of fevers)Outskirts of O Porriño1Outskirts of O Porriño1There is an hórreo. We must be in Galicia.

    O Porriño

    April 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    An 18km day in beautiful weather and varied terrain. It’s good to be back in Galicia.

    We left our apartment at 8:50am and followed the riverbank before rejoining the official Camino route out of town.

    It was quite cool, requiring a jacket for perhaps 20 minutes. We were very soon in a very rural area and crossed some ancient Roman bridges.

    Then there was about an hour through beautiful tall forest, partly eucalyptus, walking on a well graded dirt path. A magical place, enhanced near St Elmo’s bridge of fevers by a bagpipe player. There is a very old Celtic culture in Galicia.

    After the forest we entered the village of Ribadelouro and had coffee and cake in a beautiful brand new coffee shop.

    The terrain is much more undulating than what we’ve seen, but nothing very steep so far.

    Some more walking through very quiet rural areas brought us to the edge of O Porriño. From there it was a pretty hot 5km slog in hot sun, with a welcome break in the middle for a lunch of tortilla, salad and Kaz Naranja Zero.

    We found our apartment a bit beyond the center of town. Entry was effected by the remote control of the owner and was a bit tricky, requiring her to send a video clip to us over WhatsApp to demo the correct technique.

    The place is small but very comfortable and big view from its 6th floor balcony.

    Cleaned up , laundered and went in search of further knee supplements and hop-based thirst remedies. The search was successful.

    Stayed: NOTRENiD    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    1Precipitous descent to SaxamondeParish church of Santiago, 15th centuryIn RedondelaIn Redondela

    Redondela

    April 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    17km including >400m elevation. An early start with quite a few fellow pilgrims. We quickly left the city of O Porriño and trekked through rural areas in quite crisp but sunny conditions. Our first stop after about 5km was at Mos, where church and surrounds were in recently cut stone. Coffee and juice fortified us for a long climb up over the ridge, on roads and through forest. A feature is the extent of small vineyards and produce fields associated with houses, and stone construction everywhere. We had a steep decline into Redondela, stopped for a simple lunch, then had an early check-in and rest.

    Stayed: Ático48    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    1ArcadeView back to VigoSantiago graffitiBocadillo & Coke Zero for lunch

    Pontevedra

    April 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    22km with two tough climbs away from and back to sea level, in cooler shadier conditions.

    We were up early today to leave Redondela at sunrise which was about 7:40am.

    We deferred breakfast to the town of Arcade at about the 7km mark to get a jump on the longish walk.

    The walk to Arcade took us on mostly dirt tracks up over a hill of about 150m. At times the track was very steep. Lots of the route was through beautiful shady eucalyptus forest.

    We had a most welcome breakfast at the first place we saw in Arcade: juice, cafe con leche, avocado, egg and almonds on toast.

    Resuming the walk we did a similar climb again to about 150m, followed by a much more gentle descent into greater Pontevedra. We passed through some very picturesque farms on the hillsides on the way down.

    Then it was 6km or so along a lovely shaded path following the River Gafo well into the city of Pontevedra.

    We stopped at a bar for a late lunch of bocadillos and Cokes Zero before covering the final 2km to our room at Acolá Rooms in the city center. It’s a big city of 80,000 people. Lots going on as we walked through on a work day.

    After a rest and a shower, bodies remain functional and have found their way to a neighbourhood square with amber muscle relaxant.

    Stayed: Acolá Rooms    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Trappist convent in Armenteira
    1Church of San Pedro de Campaño, in CampaniolaBeautiful forest towards PoioNot a very thick house, PoioMonastery of St Xoán of PoioSeafood saladAbove Combarro, looking backAbove Combarro and climbingOn the climb to Armenteira looking backDown to ArmenteiraDown to Armenteira

    A Armenteira

    April 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A 22km day with a very tough 450m elevation climb, but a great variety of quiet rural scenery.

    We left our digs at Acolá Rooms before 8 and found a bar within meters offering the perfect hiker’s breakfast: fresh OJ, caffe con leche and two slabs of toast with jam.

    Then it was off over the Ponte do Burgo, a broad pedestrian bridge coinciding with the Camino route. The city looks impressive from the bridge.

    We joined a stream of pilgrims heading out of town and were soon in quite rural areas.

    Just after 3km we took a left turn on the somewhat lesser travelled route, the so called Spiritual Variant. Most pilgrims keep going straight ahead to Padrón.

    We were pleased to see a few others taking our route, and to see it was a well marked route too.

    The walk to Combarro was quite beautiful through backroads and lanes past many small vineyards and gardens.

    We stopped just before Combarro for an excellent lunch, seafood salad and lamb moussaka, fuel for the climb. Then on into town and around the water front area.

    Eventually the route turned uphill away from the water. We climbed very steeply through the maze of streets in the town.

    What followed was a mix of beautiful rising paths through tall eucalyptus forest, dirt fire trails and sealed road. There were great views back to Pontevedra at a couple of points, and lots of forestry harvesting activity.

    We summited at about the 19km mark. The descent into A Armenteira was along fire trails at first and finally a narrow rocky goat track where the poles were necessary to avoid falling.

    We found our place (another climb) a fairly oddly laid out and furnished apartment, and performed the usual arrival rituals.

    Weather has turned cold and maybe wet, we’re breaking out new ensembles.

    Now off to the only eatery in town for some grub.

    Stayed: Villa Flor Armenteira    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Magical hike down from Armenteira
    Ready for cooler wetter weatherReady for cooler wetter weather1Old mill below ArmenteiraBelow ArmenteiraOld mill below ArmenteiraFollowing the River Armenteira1Lovely path beside River ArmenteiraBeautiful path along River Umia2A bit of light rain so ponchos were deployedThe Galicians like their grapesView from our apartment in Cambados

    Cambados

    April 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    14km day, all downhill and beautiful, with some light rain.

    The bar serving breakfast in Armenteira opens at 9:30am so we made a late start. With rain predicted we donned long pants and warmer gear.

    By 10am we had eaten and were walking again.

    The Camino route down from Armenteira is delightful. It is a steep dirt track following the babbling river Armenteira. It was 4km of waterfalls, rushing water and lush mossy green forest. We passed about 3 dozen old abandoned grain mills, all made of stone and beautifully dilapidated.

    Eventually the slope lessened and we continued beside the river through beautiful forest along a broad dirt track.

    The track crossed a highway so we stopped for lunch at the excellent Restobar Peneira.

    Rain started as we left there but did not get very heavy. We donned ponchos for about an hour.

    The route continued downstream along the river Armenteira until it joins the river Umia, which we followed upstream into Ponte Arnelas. We passed lots of lush farmland planted with various vegetable crops and the ubiquitous grapes.

    In Ponte Arnelas we stopped for a cold drink and phoned for a taxi to Cambados. It is off the Camino route. We were unable to find a room in Ponte Arnelas.

    We’d planned to taxi back tomorrow and rejoin the official route to our next stay at Vilanova de Arousa but the direct walk from Cambados to there looks pleasant, along the coast so we will probably do that.

    After gaining entry to our apartment the rain picked up quite a bit so tomorrow could be soggy.

    One priority here is to replenish our Euro supply. We just had enough to cover the taxi fare. His credit card device only accepted Spanish cards.

    Stayed: Cambados Apartamento VUT-PO-TU986D    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Walking round the shore to Vilanova
    Leaving CambadosMarket day in CambadosTo VilanovaEntering Vilanova de ArousaEntering Vilanova de Arousa

    Vilanova de Arousa

    April 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    A short day, 8km, in unexpectedly fine weather

    We slept late and made breakfast from things we bought in the supermarket last night.

    Leaving the apartment just before the noon checkout time, we walked along the waterfront in Cambados and then just followed the shoreline to Vilanova de Arousa.

    It was just 8km and we arrived about 2pm. Access to our rooms was provided by a key box. The owner sent us the combination through the Booking.com app. The apartment is very comfortable and is just a few minutes from where we catch the boat upriver to Padrón tomorrow morning.

    We had expected a rainy day but it was fine all the way, with a brief shower just as we arrived.

    Mostly a day of rest today. Boat leaves at 8am tomorrow.

    Stayed: VIVE Home Vilanova de Arousa    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    2Foggy upriverThe river Ulla from Padrón sideSantiago church from our placeIn PadrónIn PadrónIn Padrón1In Padrón

    Padrón

    April 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    A rest day: a boat ride up the river, then a 3km walk.

    We had some breakfast in our rooms and headed down to the port area to board the 8am boat to Padrón.

    It was about a 90 minute ride, very chilly at times and very foggy as we got further upriver.

    The guide on the boat told us how mussels are farmed in the estuary of the Ulla River. There are large wooden platforms with many ropes dangling below. The ropes are seeded with baby mussels from the ocean. They cling to the ropes, grow to maturity and are harvested. All family businesses.

    Just before reaching the destination we passed through a particularly beautiful wetlands area, a nature reserve.

    On arrival we warmed up in the nearest coffee shop, before walking about 3km into central Padrón.

    We wandered through an enormous outdoor market, attended Mass at the church of Santiago and then checked into our apartment very close by.

    Tomorrow being a big walk day, we took it easy for the rest of the afternoon.

    Stayed: Santiaguiño 2    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Old communal laundryPaths through villages...Beautiful non-delapidation1Divine Mercy church2Refueling in Milladoiro

    Milladoiro

    April 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    An 18km uphill trek today, surprisingly perfect conditions, we removed layers as we went. From Padrón we started in brisk sunny air along a river, took a coffee break at 4km then went through back village lanes, almost alleys, but a real insight into the local ways with vines and gardens mixed in with houses and small enterprises. Achieved our 2nd daily stamp at a Marian shrine, then it was into climbing hills through various villages, forests, chooks, goats and home produce gardens. A steep final 4 km with a welcome lunch at Milladoiro. Found our very snazzy 2 bedroom 2 bathroom apartment just off the Caminho, which made the arduous check-in worthwhile. Now for an ale waiting for a restaurant to open at 8.30. On to Santiago tomorrow, ponchos at the ready.

    Stayed: Alojamiento Santa Maria    Read more

  • Caminho Português
    Suburban sheepDoooooown, then uuuuuupSt James the Apostle4 feet wide street in SantiagoIn Santiago the ubiquitous vines3Our neighbourhood1Our neighbourhood1Leaving for the bus to Lisbon

    Santiago de Compostela

    April 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    An 8km final day, mainly up hill! We started late to avoid the drizzle and were partially successful. Our ponchos did get an outing. While short, the walk was quite hard. Final few kms through the suburbs of Santiago as we sought a glimpse of the Cathedral, then we arrived via the alley ways of the central city. Lots of fellow pilgrims arriving. Photos then off to get our official parchment of completion, a proud possession. Found our rather cosy room nearby, then a quick visit to the Cathedral to embrace the Apostle James and light some candles. A late lunch and celebratory libation. We’ll attend the Pilgrim Mass at 7.30pm.

    Stayed: Libredón Rooms    Read more

    Trip end
    April 30, 2024
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