Kenya
Kajiado

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    • Day 25

      Amboseli 2

      January 30, 2020 in Kenya ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Dernière journée dans les parcs du Kenya. On a vu les Big Five (éléphant, lion, buffle, rhinocéros et léopard) et les Ugly Five (hyène, marabout, vautour, phacochère et gnou) notamment grâce à notre guide James, la machine de la savane. On peut donc considérer qu'on a bien rempli notre mission de touristes et rentrer à Nairobi pour un petit shoot de confort moderne.Read more

    • Day 6

      Amboseli Nationalpark

      September 4, 2019 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Die letzten drei Tage waren wir in einem Camp am Amboseli Nationalpark. Dort sind wir dann in der afrikanischen Savanne angekommen. Vom Camp hatte man morgens und abends - wenn die Wolken sich verzogen - einen direkten Blick auf den Kilimandscharo😍 Direkt vor unserer Unterkunft waren Giraffen. Da der Nationalpark nicht eingezäunt ist, wandern die Tiere auch immer wieder aus dem Park heraus, zerstören dabei aber leider auch das Farmland.Read more

    • Day 19

      Amboseli National Park

      October 11, 2019 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      After arriving in Nairobi we only spent the night before being loaded into 2 safari vehicles (Landcruisers) for the 4 hour journey to Amboseli National Park. The drive was an experience as road rules seem to be merely a suggestion as cars pass where there is oncoming traffic plus a lot of trucks. Still, they only travelled around 80km/h with trucks much slower. The last hour or so we had an African massage as we left the main road and travelled into the park on very corrugated, dusty roads.

      The Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge where we are staying is very nice with Mt Kilimanjaro as a backdrop. We have been very fortunate because often the mountain is shrouded with clouds. On our afternoon drive we were able to get the classic (perhaps not the greatest) photo of an elephant with the mountain in the background. Apart from elephants, zebra and giraffe, other animals we saw that we haven't seen previously are the Thompson gazelle and a solitary hyena.

      Our drive ended at Observation Point - a bit of a climb but not too hard. Great views over the park and sundowner drinks & nibbles while we watched the sun set. A very pleasant day.
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    • Day 20

      Maasai village visit

      October 12, 2019 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Amboseli is not the greatest for wildlife compared to other game parks but it is close to a traditional Maasai village and that is where we visited this morning.

      The village is enclosed by a fence made from the spiky acacia tree which offers great protection from the wildlife while keeping their cows (I think the breed is Zebu), and sheep and goats secure. We were met outside the village by the men and women dressed in all their finery with a welcoming song and prayer or blessing or chant.

      Inside the village boundaries they did the Maasai dance where the men in particular were able to spring up in the air without any real effort. We observed them making fire from 2 sticks, and no, one of them wasn't a match. We looked inside their huts with mud and dung walls and thatch roof. Very tiny, no windows, no power, no water. They have members of the tribe who are the medicine men and using natural bark, roots etc. can cure anything from malaria, to headache, stomach upsets, or arthritis.

      The children then demonstrated how educated they were by reciting the alphabet, days of the week, months of the year and some math problems. The children attend school which is just next door.

      The Maasai live a very simple life, tending their livestock, gathering sticks and making souvenirs. Guess where the last stop of the tour was...The souvenir shop. All the women had their wares laid out and is probably the area I'm not that comfortable with . "You like this?" "How about this?" Anyway, we purchased some items after some tough bargaining (they start very high) and we have probably done our Africa shopping now.
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    • Day 21

      Nairobi to Arusha

      December 15, 2019 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      I got up early again, packed up the tent, had two fried eggs for breakfast and got ready for our long anticipated trip to the Serengeti and the Ngorogoro Crater. We said our goodbyes to Smiley, the Kenyan driver that drove most of us from the airport to Karen Camp and was a very 'smiley', amusing, gregarious, and friendly character. We wound our way out of Nairobi with the welcome quieter traffic on a Sunday morning. We passed a large shanty town area of 'cheek by jowl' rickety shacks which was a sobering view of the extreme poverty, contrasted with the backdrop of skyscrapers in the centre of the city rising high in the morning haze. We got to know our six new fellow travellers who were starting their trip that day as we passed out into the Kenyan countryside of low trees and scrubland. The views opened out into the now familiar wide open plains with distant hills skirting the skyline. The truck came to a sudden halt because our tour leader, Jemma, had spotted a small tortoise on the road which she got out to rescue from his otherwise inevitable demise under car tyres. We reached the border with Tanzania and passed through with a lot if queueing but without too much difficulty. We stopped for lunch under the huge presence of the magnificent Mount Logindo, its steep sides covered in trees with a sheer, silvery rock summit and rivers and waterfalls cascading down its sides. I feel that this must be a sacred mountain to the local maasai people as it made a deep impression on me with its rugged beauty. We parked by an acacia tree filled with social weaver birds nests and the little brown speckled birds whizzed in and out with expert flying acrobatics. Some local Maasai boy, goat herders joined us as we made our lunch on a table by the truck - they smiled shyly as we said hello and gratefully sucked on the pineapple slices we gave them. After lunch, the land opened out into a vast plain and far in the distance we saw the gigantic, legendary foothills of Kilimanjaro rising into it's own created clouds. The expanse of the foothills at the base was almost hard to take in - it seemed to stretch for hundreds of miles with sizeable ranges of hills at its foot dwarfed by the enormous conical volcano. We journeyed towards another large mountain under which our next campsite, 'Meserani Snake Park' near Arusha sits. This campsite is run by a 70 year old feisty character that everyone calls 'Ma'. There is a snake and bird sanctuary there for these rescued creatures, and a treatment centre for local people who suffer snake bites. There is also a museum which educates about the Maasai culture and history which I planned to explore the following morning. I walked up to the small village near the campsite, with roadside stores and friendly Maasai store owners and some nice locals in a sim card store for the local phone operator, Airtel, managed to get my Airtel sim card to work which I'd been trying to do since I bought it over a week ago during our last excursion in Tanzania. We had a nice evening meal and I watched the cool, clear night sky filled with its pantheon of constellations and saw a shooting star before I retired to bed.Read more

    • Day 384

      Entering Chyulu

      January 4, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Nairobi cancelled so what now? I could go into Amboseli National Park but as it is labelled “premium park” I somehow loose interest. I would probably see a bunch of animals and the Kili but both I have already enjoyed a lot so far. But what’s this small mountain ridge to the east? Chyulu Hills? Looks interesting, let’s go there! I spend quite a lot of time figuring out how to get into Chyulu Hills National Park from the West. My road maps are not really clear on that and are out of date apparently. I pass some wildlife corridors along the main road from Oloitokitok northwards and ask my way through at Kimana Sanctuary and finally at a police control post in Mbirikani. From here they guide me to take a road which leads directly into the hills and this also complies with my maps but it’s further north then I wanted to go. Coincidence and destiny kick into action and while stopping at a market I get approached by a Maasai who asks for a lift in direction to Chyulu Hills to his village. A beautiful road this is! Through green plains with scarce trees with impalas, hartebeests, wildebeests, thommys and with a view on the now approaching smooth hills. We get stopped by a giraffe road checkpoint. They do not let us pass until having finished drinking from a puddle. Lovely! It turns out that this Maasai works for Big Life Foundation – a non-profit conservancy organisation – and after telling him my plans he guides me directly to the local headquarters into the arms of Richard Bonham, one of the organisation's founders and famous conservationist! He gives me the permission to enter the national park because the main entrance gate is located on the other side in Kibwezi. He also explains very precisely how to get to a superbly located campsite with gorgeous views. I have to hurry in order to reach it before sunset. The road into the hills is wild, bumpy, totally overgrown with high grass, thorny bushes and adventurous! Paradise.Read more

    • Day 384

      Things change

      January 4, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      I survive the bad road and arrive in Oloitokitok with superb view on the north face of both Kili peaks. After buying a SIM card it is 0930 already. Rushing now to Nairobi on the main roads? Hmm. This is really not what I want! In hope of a better-mooded customs officer today I call her and indeed find a calm, friendly lady on the other side of the line. I politely explain my situation and she understands that re-trying the registration procedure here at the border in Oloitokitok on a Monday could be an option. Yesterday she insisted sending me to Nairobi because she had already talked to the responsible person there and had announced my visit. I drive to the border post, manage to find a friendly customs officer, call the lady again, give the phone to this officer, they clarify everything, I get my pay bill, I am registered in “the system”. Problem solved, Nairobi cancelled, mission accomplished. On leaving Oloitokitok I pass a police control post. They say “Please proceed.” and I say “No! I want to have lunch with you!” They are nice guys, I am hungry and on the opposite building there is written “Police Canteen”. In the backyard two ladies prepare awesome fish with ugali for all police officers ... and for me =)Read more

    • Day 386

      Call of Chyulu

      January 6, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      I spend two nights and two days in deep green. The main campsite is already occupied by 6 holidayers from England and Sweden in two cars which I did not expect because these hills are supposed to be empty of humans but full of birds, generally smalller animals and some East African cats instead.
      The first day I go for an extensive hike to climb three surrounding summits. I am longing for a western view on Kilimanjaro and indeed find it's snow-covered tip glimpsing through the clouds for a few moments but the rest is just hazy air. The juicily green hills are wonderful! The soil is basically brownish-greyish-black volcanic ash. A variety of grass grows here, especially because it must have burned not too long ago. Half of the day's hike the grass nipple-high and I wonder if I might stumble across hiding predatory animals waiting to rip me apart. So far I have just been warned to stay away from the patches of pristine forest because buffaloes like to hide in there. I encounter just one tiny snake, baboons and an orange-backed monkey and a lonely hartebeest on the opposite hill. Bigger animals are scrace or stay just for a short time because there seems to be no water at all up here. There are many herby bushes around. Just roll a leaf between your fingertips, smell it and drift into tasty dreams! A pollen-saturated bee visits me and licks my sweat frantically. After having been invited for late lunch by the englishified Swedes on my way back we spend the evening together and have a lot of fun!
      The next sunrise is powered by distant growling of a lion coming from the valley north of the campsite. Holy banana! I thought that there are no big cats around here! After breakfast three rangers from Big Life Foundation appear to warn us about apparently two lions not far away. They offer us to walk there and to scare them away. Their most sophisticated equipment consists of GPS devices and short sticks. Very trustworthy :-D Unfortunately the lions seem to have already left the last spot where they have been seen. The others return to Nairobi and I start my 4-wheeled adventure to examine the tracks further south which appear on OpenStreetMap. A wild, bushy "road", difficult to followup because it just consists of vague tracks in high grass and suddenly ends being totally overgrown. Only a foot path continues which is used by Maasai and their cattle. I have to turn back. Hmmpf, ok. Later the rangers tell me that this road has not been used for almost three years. To satisfy my curiosity I then try to find another access road down to the western side of the hills through which I was unsuccessfully trying to get into the hills two days ago. I am indeed successful and arrive in a huge Maasai community down there. Now I can finally update the map! :-) It is just early afternoon and I spontaneously decide to go all the way back up and through the hills to Kibwezi because it is just pure offroad fun driving up there!! The car is incredibly eating every track I'm throwing at it. Low range 2nd gear and you have a rocket on 4 wheels! But a very comfy rocket, so rather a rocket sofa on 4 wheels.
      After passing the Kisula Caves I check out of the park in the East but spend the last night on the headquarters' campsite. So, I entered from the West without a gate and found a different way out to the West without a gate. In the end I could have ended the trip without paying anything but I think it is just fair to support the official conservancy work and all the park infrastructure. Looking back on all the fun I had during these few days it is the least that I can do!
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    • Day 4

      R.E.M High Shool, Ngong

      October 6, 2017 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Another amazing project for orphans and disantvantaged children. Rev. Shadrach Ogembo started in the slums of Nairobi, and still has today two orphanages there. But then he could buy a piece of land in the Ngong valley oitside Nairobi. There he started a high school with over 180 children now.Read more

    • Day 10

      Amboseli National Park

      September 11, 2016 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Die Fahrt von Tsavo East zu Amboseli war gegenüber der Fahrt innerhalb des Nationalparks wieder sehr anstrengend, da der größte Teil der Strecke eine unbefestigte Straße, die aus Rillen, Hügeln und Schlaglöchern bestand. Sehr unbequem für Rollstuhlfahrer.

      Angekommen in Amboseli waren wir begeistert von der unglaublichen Weite und den rießen Herden aus Elefanten, Büffeln und Zebras. Die Atmosphäre war natürlich besonders schön durch den Kilimanjaro im Hintergrund, den wir glücklicherweise oft durch die Wolkendecke hindurch sehen konnten. Der Nachteil war nur, dass es sehr touristisch war und man auf viele andere Safari Autos gestoßen ist.

      Unser Guide hat uns erzählt, dass der Aboseli National Park früher von Massai bewohnt war, die sich um die Tiere gekümmert haben und das Land bepflegt haben. Seit der Park dem Staat gehört, wurden die Massai vertrieben und das Land ist ausgetrocknet. Aus dem bewaldeten, grünen Gebiet wurde eine karge Landschaft mit zu hohem Salzgehalt, was alles austrocknet und unfruchtbar macht.

      Nachmittags sind wir in der Ol Tukai Lodge angekommen und wurden, wie in den andren Camps mit einem feuchten Tuch zur Erfrischung und gegen den Staub und einem Willkommens-Cocktail begrüßt. Danach durften wir noch vom Buffet ein Mittagessen einnehmen und nach kurzer Zeit ging es weiter.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Kajiado, Kajiado District

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