Day 1: Arrived in Iquitos
July 10 in Peru ⋅ 🌧 29 °C
I arrived in Iquitos on July 10th on a layover flight from Lima with Rachael and Crystal. We traveled on an overnight flight from NYC and were super exhausted! We checked into the Hotel Jungle House excited for our adventures. We met with other Morpho ARIE folks and went out to dinner at Dawn at the Amazon. It was my first time eating patarashca, a steamed fish in “bijao” leaves. On our way to dinner, it was pouring rain. After dinner, there was a local cultural festival happening. We saw a local band and people dancing.Read more
Day 2: Belén Market
July 11 in Peru ⋅ 🌧 25 °C
Today, at 9:00 AM, I set out with Jenn, Bhavna, and Amber to the Belén Market, a floating market during the wet season. Our tour guide, Kelwin took us in motor-taxis or “tuk tuks” to the market location. It was an extensive market with a variety of local foods, such as the Doncella catfish and the purple corn. Kelwin let us try the “jungle apple” called “mamay.” We also tried fresh honey with the hive from a local vendor. I bought handcrafted bracelets for my children and my “pink dolphin” earrings from local vendors. We visited the lower market where we took a boat out and saw the homes along the Itaya River. The people were out washing their clothes and fixing their latrines. People put their excrement into the river - yuck! 🤢
For lunch we went to the Fitzcarraldo and I got chaufa, a Chinese-Peruvian fusion of fried rice.
For dinner, we went to Las Terrazas at the SkyBar and got to meet with more of the ARIE folks. Argentina beat out Switzerland that evening in the World Cup.Read more
Day 3: Traveling to ACTS Field Station
July 12 in Peru ⋅ 🌧 28 °C
We started this morning ready to go at 8:45 AM. Our guides met up at the Hotel Jungle House. We took a 5 minute trip to the Explorama boat dock. The total trip to ACTS field station was 2.5-3 hours. We took one big covered speed boat and a smaller boat through the creek. As we approached the lodge, the musicians/staff and Amanda welcomed us.
We had a delicious lunch prepared. We got jungle ready for a hike up to the canopy walk. It was so terrifying but exciting to be up high in the trees with a bird’s eye view. After showering, we had an orientation and an evening of icebreakers. We played the “Choo choo” game where we had a partner in front of us and had to share an answer to a prompt, such as “If you had a superpower, what would it be?”Read more
Day 4: Fishing Day One
July 13 in Peru ⋅ 🌧 28 °C
The ichthyologists from IIAP (Erland, Jhoanna, Moises, and Stephany) and Marie led us around the hiking trails to set up fishing traps. We hiked with Don Percy around to four different points: Puente laboratorio #1, Puente laboratorio #2, Shushupe (bushmaster) #3, and Puente baños #4.
We use bait or “carnada” that consists of rice, bananas, and dorado (catfish). Marie’s traps allow fish to swim inside but not back out.
Upon checking the traps in the afternoon, we caught several local species such as Tetragonopterus, Moenkhausia, Hyphessobrycon, all types of Characidae (family) or colloquially known as mojarra.
In the evening, Percy took us on a night hike and told us a story about goblins you can see with night vision goggles that play tricks on people hiking through the jungle. Then we went to a magical place where there is only one tree that has special leaves that have a bioluminescent fungus that grows on it. It is only found in the jungle near ACTS. The tree is called Yacushapana. Percy had us collect as many leaves as possible to throw them into the air to create a “shooting star” effect.Read more
Day 5: Fishing Day Two
July 14 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
We set up traps the day before and when we checked them this morning we found some freshwater crabs, river prawns, and shrimp. Erland and Moises went into the water today. They tried seining but the branches at Puente Laboratorio #1 were obstructing the net.
I was so proud of catching my first fish today in a large hand net called “el jamo.” Erland made the pole for the hand net using a machete to chop down a branch to attach it to the steel part of the net. My first fish caught was a Knodus or a type of tetra with a blue lateral stripe.
We had Cinda join us for fishing. My boot got stuck at Puente Titi in the mud while I was fishing. Marie had to rescue my boot from the muck at the bottom as I hopped out on one foot. 🤣
This evening we went on a canopy walk with the guides. On the way there, we found katydids, frogs, and spiders. I followed Erika and Sarah up there. I was stung by a wasp and so was Sarah. We saw the Milky Way Galaxy up in the sky. I spotted a toe-toed sloth climbing down the wire of the canopy walk. I felt so proud of myself for having spotted it.Read more
Day 6: Fishing and Visiting the Shaman
July 15 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
Today we went to check the other traps that we left at Puente Palos #1 and Puente Palos #2, which were sites we added the day before over a suspended bridge, similar to the canopy walk bridges.
Puente Palos #2 was a dry creek bed today as compared to the day before. Josh joined us to film a short documentary about the aquatic team.
In the afternoon, we went to see Don Guillermo and Don Desiderio, both shamans at the Napo Lodge. They walked us through all of the medicinal plants that help treat various ailments such as dragon’s blood for mosquito bites or lemongrass as tea.
Don Desiderio blessed me in his local native language and I smeared some aromatic oil all over my face. I rubbed a lipstick plant seed pod in my fingers and it turned my fingertips red. I also got a temporary tattoo of a “piranha” from Don Guillermo. It looked more like a barracuda to me. 😅
“Los pescadores” were successful at catching tons of fish in front of the Napo Lodge using the seining method since it was a larger area near the floating dock.
In the evening, we went fishing in Quebrada Grande in the boat. It was so much fun. Don Percy was our guide. Marie sat next to me and Jhoanna next to Marie. Instead of fishing, we were killing wasps. 😑 The wasps were attacking us and we were hooting and hollering about it. Marie tried to step on the wasp and it remained alive. 😭 It was hilarious! She also started cracking up about fishing with the smallest net. Meanwhile I caught two fish with that tiny net later on. We were all laughing so hard our bellies hurt. 🤣
Percy spotted a Fer-de-lance and started taunting the snake by splashing water at it. We were all screaming because he was crazy to taunt a venomous creature! Meanwhile, the other boat of the night boat riders was sneaking up on us in the dark. We were supposed to be the quiet boat, but from the other people’s perspective, we were the “party boat.” We saw an oilbird that uses echolocation to catch its prey. Lots of cute sleeping birds were also spotted. 😚🦜😴💤🥱
Moises lost the “jamo” (net) to the creek. We marked the spot it was lost in order to retrieve it at a later time. 🤷🏻♀️Read more
Day 7: Piranha Fishing and Frogging
July 16 in Peru ⋅ 🌧 28 °C
Today I woke up early and went bird watching in the canopy. I saw a white-faced nunbird on the wire of the canopy walk.
In the afternoon, the Aquatic Stream Team went piranha fishing at Urco Miraño, a black water area on the Napo River. We took an hour-long boat ride and as we approached where the whitewater and black water meets, we saw pink and grey dolphins 🐬 swimming in the water. They were fishing just like we were!
Our first stop at Urco Miraño, Cesar taught us how to fish for piranhas and he caught the first one. He opened its mouth and showed us its sharp, pointy teeth.
I learned that once they bite on the beef (bait), you need to pull on the rod to let the hook catch into the fish’s mouth in order to pull it up. I almost caught two piranhas but they got away. Others were more successful than I was, but it was my first time fishing with a rod and hook. I was just happy to have this experience. We caught white-bellied and red-bellied piranhas. We also caught two “mojarras” or tetras.
On the way back, Marie air-dried her “pantalones apestosos” (stinky 👖 ) in the wind as we traveled by boat. Jeanne’s hat flew off. Cesar had the captain turn the boat around to rescue her hat. Marie held her hat up like the Statue of Liberty. 🗽
This evening I joined the Amphibian Survey Team. I found two froggies 🐸 this evening. I felt more successful about catching frogs today than I did fish.Read more
Day 8: Paperwork and Night Hike
July 17 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
I spent most of the day at ACTS Field Station working on the 5E Lesson plan with Jeanne. I collaborated with Moises, Stephany, Erland, and Jhoanna to help identify some of the fish for our Fish ID Guide. I am super proud of how it turned out.
Jeanne and I also worked on the presentation for Sunday. We put together some of the slides. While Jeanne worked on the ArcGIS Story Map, I worked on designing the worksheet, practice ID slides, and the Canva Amazonian Fish ID Guide.
Todd, Ursula’s husband, gave a mini-talk about the climatic effects impacting the world and in particular, the Amazon.
At night, Don Cesar took us on a night hike to see the bioluminescent fungus that glows when it’s completely dark. On the way, we saw a kinkajou.
After my shower, I ran to the classroom to help process a sardine. Stephany and Jhoanna showed me how to take a “tejido” or tissue sample and how to put the “voucher” using a needle and thread. Moises jokingly said I did a terrible job at taking the “tejido,” but hey, it was my first time. 🤷🏻♀️😅 Erland came running in with a catfish he had just caught too. It was gigantic and barely fit into the bucket!Read more
Day 9: Meeting with the Maijuna
July 18 in Peru ⋅ 🌧 24 °C
Today we took a boat to Napo Lodge to have breakfast there. During breakfast, we had white-faced tamarinds and squirrel monkeys also join us! They were feasting on the bananas outside of the lodge.
After breakfast, we took a boat to the Maijuna-Sucusari community and visited with them. They introduced themselves to us and we introduced ourselves to them. After clapping it out, “los pescadores” (the fisher people) and Amber followed Don Percy to meet with Tony about the stingless orchid bees. Tony told us about how he goes to “el monte” (woods) to cut down the trunks of the trees where the bees live at nighttime and brings them back to the village. As he places them in their newly constructed hive, the opening needs to face the same direction as in the original trunk in the forest. This is so the bees can find their way back into the hive and not smash and kill themselves upon returning. One of the bees took a liking to me and landed on my watch/hand. We got to sample the honey inside the hive via a syringe that Tony filled up. The younger honey is very sour compared to the old more mature honey which is sweeter. As the honey ripens, it gets darker in color also.
After the stingless bee demo, Castellano, one of the leaders of the village, led us into a small museum. He talked to us about the history of the Maijuna and how they were enslaved by the Spaniards. He showed us the earring gauges that men used to wear to stretch out their ear lobes, and even taught us some Maijuna expressions. In another room, Castellano talked about the way people would call the village together by using a giant mortar and pestle that makes a loud sound when the two pieces are banged together. That signaled it was preparing “aguaje” (palm fruit) juice time. As the men peeled the fruits, women smashed the fruit, and the children pressed it through finer sieves to make it into a juice that was drunk in that moment as a whole community.
Castellano talked about the sustainable method they use to harvest “aguaje” fruit with a harness since back then they used to cut the tree down to obtain the fruit. Additionally, he mentioned how a community member taught them how to hunt with rifles and other weapons to obtain other food sources besides fish and produce.
Shortly afterward, we departed back to Napo Lodge for a break and then lunch. After lunch, we heard from a local Maijuna member who works with the scientist, from the Detroit Zoo to obtain camera trap footage. He and a group of other locals help install and repair the cameras around the forest floor. The video footage included, big cats, such as jaguars and ocelots, to small birds, anteaters, and deer, to name a few.
I went fishing with Marie, Erland, and Moises, but we didn’t catch anything. The fish at Napo are bread lovers not meat lovers!
After 2pm, we returned to the community and this time we had a chambira palm fiber workshop. The local women “artesanas” (artisans) explained and demonstrated how to harvest the palm leaves and take them off the branch. The branch is covered in spines, so the woman told us to be careful. I jumped up to volunteer to help remove as many leaves as possible from the branch and then helped distribute two to each community member.
The ladies went around trying to help us obtain the smaller fiber to make a bracelet. I was no good at obtaining the chambira on my own. Afterward, we were able to purchase goods from the “artesanas” to support their craft. I presented the community with the donations/gifts that we brought. I expressed how thankful we were to be there and how they made us feel welcomed. I also mentioned how we would all hope to come back and experience it all over again one day.
We took a picture with the community. We also took another FFT picture because Debby had forgotten her sign. And lastly, we took a “los pescadores” pic.
When we had some downtime back at the lodge, I hung out with Moises, Jhoanna, and Erland. We talked about their “river beaches” and other areas of Peru that are beautiful. Moises went to a sand dunes park where he “surfed” on his belly down. They also asked me to ask the bartender at Napo how much the raincoat costed 😂 . We all bet it was $10, but it was only $5. It wasn’t as overpriced as we thought it would be for a cheap piece of plastic. 🤷🏻♀️
After dinner, we heard from Megan and Michel. Megan debriefed the visit with the Maijuna and Michel talked about the government’s proposed highway that would bisect the area of protected land that belongs to the Maijuna-Sucusari and other indigenous groups.
The only species I saw on the way back from Napo on the boat was a tree frog, thanks to Becca’s trick with the eye shine!Read more
Day 10: Blackwater Birding and Presentations
July 19 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
I went birding this morning since I had only gone once before and it was not successful. This morning was gorgeous with no clouds or fog. We saw hummingbirds, Euphonias, Paradise jacamars, and I even heard macaws squawking about. Don Percy got a great shot of a Jacamar eating a dragonfly! Everyone was super jealous of how great our birding expedition was!
This morning we went on a boat out to blackwater after breakfast. The goal was to see Hoatzin’s, a type of bird that loves the swampy areas. We were also promised birds called the Potoo, that have amazing camouflage and blend into the branches seamlessly.
Carissa has such a good eye. She was able to quickly see things and point them out to me. I could barely keep up with her! I was able to see four Hoatzins. Carissa helped me spot the Great Potoo in the dead branches of the tree. She was really sweet in letting me borrow her binoculars to see all of the organisms much better. But as the pescadores say, I have my “manzanita” (Apple) phone and that is just as good as any pair of binoculars lol. We saw two “iguana-like” reptiles, one perched in a tree and the other swimming across the water.
After our blackwater adventure, we buckled down and finalized our presentations. Marie showed us how to make an origami fish and we decided to include that in our presentation. 😊
We presented second after the butterfly group. Unfortunately, the videos I had put into the slides did not work thanks to the “enhance the slide feature,” which was a bummer since there were really cool. While we presented, Marie almost fell through the floor as a floorboard cracked underneath her feet! Yikes!!! 😬
The presentations lasted a long time, but it was interesting to hear from all of the groups. The catchiest group was the frog group, they had us do some frog karaoke at the end that was cute. Amanda led us in some reflection work and we got to send ourselves a postcard.
After reflecting, it was time for dinner! After dinner it was fiesta time! 🎉🥳 Ro led the group in thanking the guides. After clapping it up and tearing up for a minute, Cesar and other employees from Explorama formed a band with a “cajón” (box drum), guitar, and maracas. Don Luis played and sang beautifully. We heard some American classics, like Hotel California and the Beetles. My favorites were the Peruvian cumbias and the Latin classics, such as La Bamba (Ritchie Valens) and La Billirubina (Juan Luis Guerra). There was some crazy dancing going on by lots of folks, a limbo competition, which Erland dominated, and some pair dancing. Rachel G. is very talented at Latin dancing thanks to her upbringing in a Mexican-American community. We danced a few songs together! I taught Leovie how to dance salsa. Erland and I danced cumbia together. It was a fun-filled night and I stayed up until midnight partying until I tapped out.Read more
Day 11: Goodbye Iquitos, Hello Lima
July 20 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
It was a bittersweet day today. We had our last breakfast prepared by the Explorama staff and my luggage was packed by 6:45 am. I also took a bracelet and keychain that the Maijuna had given to us as gift upon our departure on Saturday.
Many of us traveled back to Iquitos with Garly and Cesar for 2.5 hours. It took me two boats, a van, and airplane to arrive in Lima. Cesar fed us lunch boxes and saw that we all checked-in okay. I said goodbye to him and made my way through security with the other gals. I arrived in Lima at around 3:35 pm and retrieved my luggage by 3:55 pm. By 5pm, I was at my hotel, La Luna Inn.
Roberto, the Taxidatum driver, was very friendly. He gave me some recommendations about what restaurants to try in Lima. That evening I walked to the “malecón” (boardwalk) in Miraflores and saw the beautiful sunset. I went to the Parque de Los Amantes and saw the pigeon-infested sculpture and the love locks. ❤️🔒 The mosaics that cover the elongated benches reminded me of Gaudí’s Parc Güell,
I walked down what seemed like a million stairs to La Rosa Náutica for a pisco sour and ceviche. It was a nice view of the Pacific Ocean 🌊 and its rocky beaches. After dinner, I walked up the million stairs again and this time, I took a ramp up instead. I walked through Parque Kennedy and saw the little gatitos that used to control rodent populations back in the day. Nowadays people adopt the cats 🐈 and take good care of them. They are housed and fed by locals.Read more
Day 12: Lima Historic Center and Magic Fountains
July 21 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
I met my tour guide at Haku tours main office. Rosela welcomed me and introduced me to another family visiting from Mexico. She started explaining how big of a city Lima is and how it can take almost two hours to commute home from her job via public transport.
Lima is a culinary capital because of its influence of Asian cultures, such as the Japanese, Nikkei cuisine, and the Chinese, chifa restaurants. Rosela mentioned Maido won a top award during 2025 and little did I know that the family I was touring with and I both had reservations at 2pm!!! What a coincidence!
After a 30 minute drive from Miraflores to the historic center, we arrived in front of the Gran Hotel Bolivar, across the street is La Plaza de San Martín. Both are leaders who fought for Peruvian independence, which is celebrated on July 28th and July 29th. All of the public plazas and homes are decorated with Peruvian flags and colors to celebrate. As we entered the Hotel Bolivar, we were welcomed by a beautiful arrangement of flowers. The flowers’ colors are changed depending on the holiday or celebration. We saw an old Model T Ford car and the original elevators.
Across was the Plaza, the statue of the women was holding a llama on top of her head because llama in Spanish can mean the animal or the flame, like a torch. Because we are in Peru, the artist assumed a llama, the animal. As we walked through the “girón” or alley between plazas we saw different types of architecture such as art noveau and neo-Gothic which showcased how wealthy the people were of the 19th century at the time. Many homes had carriage doors and knockers high up for the horseback riders.
Before lunch, I did some shopping at Larcomar at Sol Alpaca for high-quality baby alpaca sweaters and ponchos. For lunch, I went to Maido and partook in the tasting menu. The presentation was very creative and memorable.
I quickly dropped off my purchase at the hotel and ran to the tourist center to wait for my evening tour of the Magic Fountains. My tour guide Mateo was a native Peruvian and I was joined by a family of four from Brazil. I enjoyed how Mateo told us the symbolism behind the fountains. He was more than happy to take pictures of me also. The evening show was super cool with lights, projections, and sounds. The whole family got to see it because David WhatsApp called me while I was watching the show. The traffic back to Miraflores was horrid. It took us almost an hour to get back. 😱 Mateo offered me a complimentary pisco sour at Las Terrazas rooftop bar. For a late night treat, I tried Picarones Mary at Parque Kennedy.Read more
Day 13: Barranco’s Bohemian Vibes
July 22 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
I ran some errands and the walked about one hour to the Barranco neighborhood from Miraflores. I got to walk down the “malecón” along the coast and then I crossed El Puente de la Paz. I did a little bird watching, thanks to Morpho’s inspo and I took a pic at Bandera Park. I finally arrived at Barranco and there was a protest going on in front of a health center. I saw the famous Mafalda statue and took a selfie with her.
At 11 AM, Paola arrived and welcomed me and the other tourists on the food tour around Barranco. Our first stop was La Luna Nueva where we tried café Americano and an “ají de gallina” (peppered chicken) empanada. The “rocote” (pepper) sauce was a nice addition to give the empanada a little kick. On the next stop, we went to the Espirito de Peru office and tried some local fruits and cacao. My favorite fruits included the “granadilla” (passion fruit-like), “chirimoya” (Custard apple), and “tumbo” (banana-passion fruit hybrid). The “aguaymanto” (golden berry) was tasty also.
After that stop, we looked at some of the murals sponsored by Chuck Taylor of local artists like Nemo, inspired by Peruvian culture. We saw the bridge that was under construction for months now and La Espirita Church, which was destroyed by earthquakes and looks to be in disrepair. We got to try “ponche andino, causa de trucha (sea bass), and ceviche.” The chef did a demo on how to prepare ceviche with fresh sea bass and “leche de tigre”
I took a picture with the ugly turkey vultures or “gallinazos,” as the Peruvians call them. Then, we went into the Jade Rivera store and checked out some of his artwork. We saw the old trolley that no longer runs on the track. At Nuna, we met with Chef Hugo who prepared “anticuchos and lomo saltado,” or cow’s heart and sautéed beef chunks! The lomo saltado wasn’t the greatest because the dish was too salty and the meat too tough. Subsequently, we went to Juanito’s bar for a pisco sour. Jaime, our bartender, did a nice job preparing the drink. Lastly, I tried “granadilla” and “lúcuma” gelato 🍨 at Blu Gelato.
I walked back down the malecón and saw Paddington Bear at Larcomar. I was able to dip my toes into the Pacific Ocean and breathe in some fresh, salty air. I ended my day by getting Bembos, the Peruvian McDonald’s, a burger fast-food chain.Read more
Day 14: Bye Lima, Hello Ollantaytambo!
July 23 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Today the taxi driver that dropped me off at the hotel in Lima also picked me up to go to the airport. It was a cloudy morning and there was no traffic because it was Armed Forces Day, go figure! That meant I had tons of time to hangout at the airport before my flight to Cusco.
Upon my arrival to Cusco, a driver met me and drove me a whopping 3 hours to Ollantaytambo, a small town halfway between Cusco and Machu Picchu. I arrived around 4pm and was starved. As soon as I checked in, I was in search of food. I wanted to try cuy, so I went to La Casa de los Cuyes nearby. The young man (joven) let me into the enclosure where I got to feed the guinea pigs. Once I was done admiring them, I took a seat and waited for my fried cuy.
Upon first impression, it looked like a chicharrón because it was super crunchy-looking. The cuy tasted like fried dark meat chicken and was delicious. The potato pancakes and plátanos maduros were a nice addition. I had two dogs watching me eat the whole time. They reminded me of Abby. 😭 It was way too much food. I met the owner and she was very sweet. I told her how well-seasoned and delicious it was. She said it was fresh from the morning. Her son knows what he is doing with the family business.
I walked around the small stone streets some more, exchanged some money, and bought souvenirs. The altitude sickness kicked my butt. I bought a 7 Vidas beer because Anthony, on the food tour in Lima highly recommended it. I showered and went to bed early, ready for more adventures tomorrow.Read more
Day 15: Exploring Ollantay
July 24 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
I started my morning with breakfast and then my guide was 15 minutes early so I was able to meet her ASAP. Carmen took me to the entrance of the Parque Archaeologico de Ollantaytambo. The name Ollantay is a famous Inca who lived in the 1500s. “Tambo” means small places of respite for pilgrims who traveled the Inca trail from Cusco to Machu Picchu. The journey was arduous but probably very rewarding.
The Incas believed in Pacha Mama or Mother Earth and their native language is Quechua. Carmen’s first language is Quechua and she learned Spanish in school. She told me about the Hornacinas and how they were temples built by the Incas. They used the symbols of the serpent to represent the underworld, the puma for the world we live in, and the condor for the afterlife/upperworld. Incas believed in reincarnation so they mummified their leaders in a seated position. Common folk were mummified in fetal positions. When the missionaries came, they did away with many of the Inca’s ways, including destroying the facades of their temples that depicted the animals aforementioned.
Carmen took a million pictures of me, some poses included: “llamita and foto loca” or llama hand and arms up. After the tour of the archeological site, we went to check out the fiestas patrimoniales or the Independence Day Parade. A variety of school groups marched and played instruments in the celebration. I was shocked that even the laborers, doctors, and sanitation workers marched in the parade too. Peruvians respect their people and what they all do for the community.
After the parade, Carmen said she would meet me on Sunday for the trip to Moray and Chinchero. I went to Korichanca, a touristy restaurant on the second floor in front of the Plaza de Armas where the parade took place. I ordered an Alpaca steak with elderberry sauce. Down in the plaza, people were drinking “chicha de jora,” or corn booze in giant glasses. They were lit! The owner let me have a llama keychain for free, which was super nice.
I took a long hike up Pinkuylluma where the granaries were located. The altitude kicked my butt, once again. 😮💨 Going up those stairs and trying to breathe is no joke. Thank god for my Diamox and coca leaves! 😝 I made it huffing and puffing up to the two levels of the granary and saw a wonderful view of the town below. Because I am crazy, I went back into the Archaeological Park of Ollantaytambo and hiked up Inka Watana. I thought this was just a nice little walk, but it turned out to be a lot more intense than the hike I had just done earlier. People coming down were super nice and encouraged me to keep going. I am no quitter, just needed to catch my breath
As I sat down pretty close to the summit, an American man zoomed past me and asked me if I was okay. I told him, “I am good, it’s my first day here.” He seemed pretty acclimatized compared to me! I made to the top and was super proud of not dying or giving up. I saw across the valley where I had hiked to the opposite mountain.
With all the trekking, I ended up in the sauna of my hotel before showering and heading out to dinner. I went to Apu Veronica which had the most delicious trout, served nice and hot on a volcanic stone accompanied by Andean fried potatoes and salad. I mopped it all up and washed it down with a local Sumac Warmi Purple Ale.Read more
Day 16: Sanctuario Histórico de Machu Picchu
July 25 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
I woke up ready for my adventure to Machu Picchu. I ate breakfast and walked about 15 minutes to the train station. We boarded the train by car letters and I was able to see up through the multiple windows. The journey to Aguas Calientes took about 2 hours. Along the way, I saw people campaigning for their chosen political candidate, horses, porters, and donkeys.
Upon arrival to AC, a guide holding a sign with my name helped me navigate from the train to the bus station to purchase my ticket. I bumped into Bhavna and her husband on the bridge as I made my way to the bus station. We took a quick picture because I had to make my entry time to the sanctuary. My guide helped me find the correct line to ride the bus up to the sanctuary. Once boarded, it took 20-30 minutes to reach the top of the citadel. The narrow roads made the bus conductors look like expert Formula 1 drivers — narrow roads, big buses!
I met up with Samuel, my guide for Circuit 2 at the citadel. Samuel explained that this was a site for rituals and prayer back in the 1500s. The sanctuary is named for the mountain that sits next to it, Machu Picchu is at its base. The famous tourist shot is of Huaynapichu in the background which is part of Circuit 3. The Incas used two ways to shape the rocks for the structures, one way was to make openings in a straight line and placing wooden wedges in those openings. They would add water so the wood would expand and break the rock into two halves. It could take up to three months! Another way was to heat up the stone and then throw water at it so that the rock could easily break. Just like at the Archaeological Ruins in Ollantaytambo, the Incas did not use mortar to hold the rocks together at the temples. All of the rocks were placed there carefully chosen to withstand the elements and earthquakes.
Along the circuit, I saw chinchillas and llamas, some of the local animals of the region. Hiram Bingham was the “discoverer” of the citadel back in 1911. He asked the locals about the ancient civilization of Machu Picchu and people told him there were agricultural terraces up the mountain. Two families avoiding taxes and military drafts were living in an abandoned Machu Picchu. Hiram Bingham found over 4,000 artifacts in the ruins and sent them to Nat Geo and Yale University, two of his sponsors.
Interestingly, the highest ranked Inca leader never lived at Machu Picchu. He left his shaman or relative of his in charge of the citadel when he wasn’t present. The shaman was the one who performed animal sacrifices and used astrology to make predictions. They used sun dials to help know when to plant and harvest crops, some of which include corn and potatoes. The temples all have three windows representing the afterlife or over world, the land, and the underworld. Surprisingly, the Spaniards never found Machu Picchu when they colonized the Incas.
After leaving the citadel, I rode the bus down the mountain with Samuel. We spotted a “relojero,” a bird with a turquoise coloring, He recommend the Full House Restaurant with views of the Urubamba River. I saw a cute little hummingbird perched in the branch of the tree. Next, I hustled to see the famous Paddington Bear and had some locals take a picture for me. I couldn’t resist buying a llama plushie for my daughter and a couple of magnets as souvenirs before catching my train back to Ollantaytambo!
Thank you Pacha Mama and Machu Picchu for your gifts to the world. 🙏🥰Read more
Day 17: Chinchero, Moray, and Salineras
July 26 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
John and Carmen, my driver and guide, picked me up from my hotel and drove me all the way to Chinchero. Chinchero is know for its textiles and the women who use spindles to spin alpaca, sheep, or other animal fibers into yarn. As we got out of the taxi, I was welcomed by the whole group of women artisans and a man playing a drum. They invited me to dance and walk into their shop.
In the shop, a young woman adorned me with a hat and poncho, the most touristy thing you could think of! 🤣 Another woman proceeded to explain to me about how they use “Inca Shampoo,” a vine that they grate to form a biodegradable soap. Once she showed me how she washes the fur, she explained what natural plants and insects are used to dye the yarn. Cochineal is an insect from the cactus that they use to give the textiles a red color. Using natural substances, such as “alumbre” or alum, she changed the pH of the cochineal to make it a more orangey color. She put it on as lipstick on her lips afterward. Next, she showed me her weaving loom and how they use camelid bones in the weaving process. After a whole educational experience, she invited me to dance a local, folkloric dance. I ended up falling for the typical sales trap of buying two llama sweaters for my children, I guess our Christmas photo will involve a Peruvian theme this year! 🤷🏻♀️😅
As I departed the Chinchero textile center, I went across the street and met the owners’ Guinea pigs and llamas. The llama was very friendly and allowed me to hug her and take pictures with her. There was a cute baby llama too.😚
Next, we proceeded to Moray or what they call the Inca Laboratory. There are a bunch of agricultural terraces in circular form that were used to experiment with various plant types. The cooler tolerant plants were closer to the center while the higher heat tolerant plants were found in the outer concentric circles. The Incas used a layering system to provide proper drainage to their plants, some of the layers included fertilized top soil, smaller gravel, larger gravel, and sand.
Our last stop was the Salineras de Maras. The salt wells are individually owned by co-op in the local community. Each owner takes care of his little salt well. The water flows in and out of each of the clay wells that are only 5-10 cm deep. At a distance, we could see men using a wooden scraper tool to make little mounds of salt to let the water evaporate from it before it could be harvested. The newer wells are lighter in color while the darker brown wells mean they have already harvested the salt and need to wait a period of time to refill the well with more of this natural saltwater. The wells are opened and closed by a supervisor or manager with a little canal system and they use a rock to close the well and deviate the water to other well.
We had lunch at Don Angelo’s, a local buffet restaurant with tons of typical Peruvian dishes, such as cuy, causa, and ceviche. The musicians were very talented and played a nice range of music including salsa.
Back in Ollantaytambo, I walked around the neighborhood some more on the free trails. I also FaceTimed with the family and showed them the small Incan town and the giant cuy costume at La Casa de Los Cuyes. I even showed them my hotel room!Read more
Day 18: Downtown Cusco
July 27 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 12 °C
I got an early taxi from Ollantaytambo to Cusco. I started my day having lunch at Kusykay Restaurant. My choice was an ají de gallina which was nicely done. After a full belly, I went to the local archaeological museum that has artifacts from pre-Incan and Incan times. There was tons of metallurgy, ceramic dishes and vessels, to name a few.
My next stop was the Museo del Sitio Qorikancha, a small museum under the Church and Monastery of Santo Domingo. There were mummies and human skulls on display. Incas used to mummify their dead. They also used to practice skull binding which made them conical or bifocal.
My next stop was the actual Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun), a fusion of Incan architecture and Spanish colonial architecture. The Spaniards built a Catholic Church on top of the old Incan temples. Many of the original Incan structures still stand and resisted the major earthquakes while the colonial structures failed. I got to see the rock with the fourteen vertices and six sides in the Temple of the Sun. The Incas always had three windows in their structures representing the three realms of the cosmos.
After the tour concluded, I bought an informational book about Peru and Machu Picchu written by a local cuzqueña to share with my children about what I learned. There was so much overload of information on all of my tours, it’s nice to process it on my own time later on as well.
I went back inside to the second floor to the bell tower, the views were gorgeous. The bells were massive and still had their etchings mostly intact from the 1700s. Once I concluded my visit, I headed to the municipal building which houses the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo. The art was created by a local artist and represents Andean culture. I took a little walk about the municipal building.
Upon returning to my hotel and bundling up, I proceeded to head to the Centro de Cusco de Arte Nativo. I waited 40 minutes to watch local folkloric dances accompanied by a live band. The dances were beautiful with the dresses that represent different communities in the Andean region. At the end of the show, they encouraged audience participation on stage. It was a good time.
I was hungry at this point, so I went to Cappuccino Cafe on the second floor that faces Plaza de Armas. I waited almost an hour for a chicken soup and croissant and I ended up eating it in my hotel room 😭 due to me having to get up at 3:30 am for Rainbow Mountain tomorrow.Read more
Day 19: Rainbow Mountain and More Cusco
July 28 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C
Today I woke up at 3:30 am to get ready for my pickup at 4:30am. John (driver) met me at my hotel and we picked up Carmen (guide) along the way. I napped until we got to Colca, a small town with a buffet restaurant of the same name. It was freezing there. I had a filling breakfast and we continued another two hours to Rainbow Mountain or Vinicunca, which is the Quechua name.
On our way to the mountain, we saw some llamas and alpacas on the road. We saw people at the school raising the Peruvian flag for the fiestas patrimoniales.
Upon arrival to Rainbow Mountain, Carmen and I traveled 1 hour and 40 minutes to the base of Rainbow Mountain. It was a difficult trek because of the altitude. I was so proud of not having to rely on a horse or a motorcycle to get to the top (plus, it costs extra soles)! Carmen took tons of photos of me with the gorgeous views. There was a view of the glaciers on top of the mountains in the distance.
On the way down, we saw geese and ducks hanging out at a small lake at the base of the mountain. The locals were drinking chica, a corn-based drink, to give them energy to keep bringing the horses up and down the mountain for folks who need assistance. These folks were running back and forth, up and down the mountain to get the next tourist and make their coin. Running in sandals back and forth was pretty impressive, meanwhile I was huffing and puffing in my hiking boots. 😅
After another car nap, we arrived back at Colca for lunch. We were super early since I had a private tour and we did the hike pretty fast. On the way back to the city, we left Carmen in her neighborhood while John took me to my hotel.
After freshening up, I headed to the Monumento de Pachacuteq, a famous leader appointed by the people of Cusco. There was tons of history about the Incan people and pre-Incan cultures. The views from up at the tower were spectacular. In the green space below, there were plantings in the shape of a condor and serpent, two of the symbols of the Inca religion.
I ended my day by having a pisco sour and cuy pequines, a Peruvian-Asian fusion dish.Read more
Day 20: Saqsaywaman, Farm, JC, and San Pedro
July 29 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
It was my last full day in Peru. I started my day by going to visit the Cristo Blanco, a gift from the Arabs to Cusco for having them as refugees. The Jesus Christ statue is made of concrete and has marble powder painted over it. The views of the entire city were incredible.
Our next stop was the Manos de la Comunidad, Centro de Camelidos. I got to see and feed all of the different types of camelids that exist in Peru, including the precious and highly coveted vicuña. The vicuña is a wild camelid and its fur is the most expensive out of all them. I even got to see three Andean condors, which were massive. They looked like giant turkeys! I enjoyed petting and feeding the alpacas. They were the most friendly and fluffiest of them all.
After the llama farm, we went to another Inca temple called Saqsaywaman. This is where every June 24th, they have the Inti Raymi or the Sun God Festival. It marks the summer solstice. My guide, Carmen says she has been attending the festival since she was a child with her family and friends. The Incas used the shape of the mountain to make the zig-zags patterns that look like the rays of the sun. They even used rocks to make shapes like that of a llama and a puma’s paw.
I had pizza at Organika, a farm-to-table restaurant. The pizza was delicious! After lunch, I decided to explore some more on my own. I checked out “Calle Siete Borreguitos,” which is known for its pretty potted plants lining the steps of the street. There was even an aqueduct at the end of the street that was from colonial times.
I ran into various parochial ceremonies and parades. One of the ceremonies was for La Virgen del Carmen. They were parading up down in front of Saint Theresa’s Church. I took a gelato break at Sierra Gelato and had passion fruit (Maracuya) and dulce de leche (manjar) flavors. Another parochial parade took place near Plaza de Armas; they even had a person dressed up as a llama in the parade! A man was playing an electric violin in front of the Centro de Artesanías; he was a vibe.
Thanks for all of the fun, Peru. It was quite the adventure, until next time.Read more















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































