Bay of Islands

A seven-hour drive from Scott's Place got me to the Bay of Islands. The drive should only have taken five, but about 45 minutes into it I realized just how tried, hungover and possibly even still a little drunk I was. I pulled into a gas station and promptly fell asleep for nearly two hours. Upon awaking I did the unthinkable and ate lunch at McDonalds. I do not possess the vocabulary to properly explain just how revolting it was, buy in my weakened state I just needed food...any food. Sadly I don't think this qualified.

Even after a nap and some empty calories I contemplated stopping and staying in Auckland for the night. Continuing on proved to be the right decision because an hour later I began to feel much better. The drive was quite nice, too and I was in a much better mood by my arrival in Piha. Scarfing down a pizza and drinking a beer made me feel better. After dinner I cleaned up my belongings, prepped for my three day kayak trip, washed up and fell asleep.

Morning came quickly. I felt like a kid waking up Christmas morning and getting to my destination was all I could think of. Despite a little trouble finding the beach, I arrived on time. In fact, I was plenty early based on when we actually left. Originally everyone was slated to have a single passenger kayak but one of the other people on the trip was too big for it, so the guide had to go back and get a tandem kayak. I won't lie, I chuckled a bit at this. When the new kayak arrived we packed up and left.

It was sunny and warm as we paddled and not more than 30 minutes in a couple dolphins swam right by us. A good start indeed. We then stopped at an island and summited its small peak to behold some breathtaking views of the surrounding islands and almost neon blue water. Following this we paddled to the next island over where we would set up the camp we would use for this night and the next. As soon as my tent was up I grabbed the guide's fishing pole, some artificial bait and some jig heads. It was time to fish!

Unfortunately, the wind was pretty strong, even through sunset. This stood no chance of deterring me and I paddled directly into it and through some serious chop. No shortage of motivation befell me, though, because the fish were nibbling my bait nearly immediately. After several chewed up pieces of bait and repeated paddling back into the wind after being blown away it was fish on. I repeated this sequence until I had three keepable fish and the sun was nearly down. That night our appetizer was snapper and it was good.

Day two was as beautiful as the first. We ventured out on the ocean side of the islands and we're greeted by swells large enough to lose sight of my kayaking companions from time to time. I've never kayaked in such swollen water and it was exhilarating. Falling out would have sucked, so I didn't fall out. We pressed on past this island and back into the safety of the bay for a break. The other couple on the trip walked around the island. I went back out fishing. No large fish were caught but a weird one grabbed on. I'm not sure what it was, but it looked like an aquarium was more suitable for it than a frying pan, so I tossed it back.

We launched once again and finally stopped for lunch. During this time I was introduced to a spear gun and with a snorkel and mask only (no fins or weight belt) speared a kingfisk. What a thrill, although dragging a bleeding fish through waters known to harbor sharks was a little scary. Next time I'm anywhere where this is an option, I'm doing it.

By early to mid afternoon we paddled to the only island with a bar. The couple had a drink and since we were close decided to head back to camp. Sam, the guide, and I decided tequila shots sounded better and proceeded to buy each other shots and beers until an hour and a half before sunset. During our drinking we met the island manager and a very interesting character named Goody. Goody was the caretaker and maintenance man for the island twelve months out of the year, but the island was only open to visitors for five months annually. I had to learn more.

Thankfully Goody was friendly and after a beer offered to show me his place and have a smoke with him. How could I refuse? His place was just one of the rooms that you could rent. Unit 1. It was probably 80 or 100 square feet inside with a patio outside of half that where we sat at his table and chatted. It turns out he has been on the island for nearly seven years. Prior to his arrival he lived about a hundred miles away. One day while sailing, or so the story goes, he arrived at the island and just never left. After being gone two years his wife contacted him to ask if he was ever going home. His response was that he was already home. Excepting a couple visits to his now grown kids per year, he stays on this island full time. I asked him if he ever got lonely and he chuckled and said he could, and would prefer to, live there all year with no visitors.

Goody's attitude was enlightening and epitomizes what I have seen in many travelers I've met on my trip. Home can be anywhere and anytime you make it. He was unattached to his possessions and unhindered by what a person "should do" and he was HAPPY.

Pretty buzzed, Sam and I paddled back to camp. I stopped to take a few photos as the sun set also and just soaked up the experiences I had so recently had.

The final day we paddled more, fished less, and finally made it back to the beach we started from. My back was twice as strong from mile after mile of paddling and I felt great. Ready to do it all over again if I could.

Back in town I was a little tired, but a quick shower fixed that and I went next door to my hostel to a bar for beers and dinner. I was happy to hear that there was a band playing and sat inside, out of the sun, right next to them. After they finished their first set the oldest one sat down with me and introduced himself as Mike. The other guys were his sons. Not more than a second later Mike asked if I wanted a shot. Of course I did! I feel like I've already gone through this sequence once in this post, but if you were wondering, Mike and I bought shots and beers until the 50 foot walk home seemed hard. Somewhere in the midst of this he invited me fishing the following day. Bwck to the water I was to go.

The next afternoon Mike picked me up as well as a Tanzanian bee keeper we had befriended and we set off. Sadly we only caught fish under the size limit so went off to another spot where Mike was going to scuba dive for scallops. Half an hour after descending Mike resurfaced with a bag of scallops. This was the first time I had eaten raw ones. They were delicious. We headed in after the sun set. Cruising along at high speed watching the moon rise was a real rush.

We made it back to town, had a drink and called it. When I went to pay I realized that I had no wallet. After searching Mike's boat and van it was nowhere to be found. Strangely I had bought gas for the boat literally right before we set off, but there was no sign of the wallet anywhere. I went to sleep worried and a bit frustrated.

The next day, still no sign of it. My friend Brian sent me some money so I could at least survive and I called a credit card company to get one replaced. I couldn't cancel them all because my upcoming camper van rental depended on one of the cards... and my license.

Thinking of any place to get a copy of my drivers license I called the place I had rented my truck from and they actually had a copy. Thankfully the van rental place said it would be sufficient. Crisis averted.

From here I drove to Auckland, saw the March family and then headed to the airport the next morning, my stay on the North Island in the books. All I can say is that I'd do it again in a heartbeat.Read more