Peter Craig
Travel organiser and tour director at Viv’s Travel Bug
Former founding staff member and Deputy Headmaster Oxley College, Bowral
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🇦🇺Australia
  • Day 12 Monday 20 April Harare

    April 20 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Up early and read.

    Breakfasted with everyone at 7.30, then packed and helped load the car and trailer.

    Left Glen Lorne at 10.00 and made our way to the Mutare Road. Big changes there. Filled up with petrol before pushing south-eastwards through Ruwa (big growth area).

    Familiar names of villages as we drove. Marandera, Macheke, Headlands and Rusape. We stopped for a picnic lunch at Halfway, just before Headlands. A familiar stop for Viv during her childhood.

    On to Rusape where we turned off towards Juliasdale and on to the National Park. Rocky kopjes becoming larger and more imposing. Punch Rock, Montclair Hotel and stopped to buy fruit at Clermont. Views of Inyangani.

    Onwards to the Troutbeck turn-off and we climbed for a bit before turning into a sideroad and reaching 'Chapungu', the cottage that the Hendersons have shares in. Stunning views down the valley to Nyanga village.

    Unpacked, had afternoon tea, then went for a short evening stroll with an excited Sabi.

    Evening meal and a fireside conversation before a bath and bed.

    It's great to be back in Nyanga.
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  • Day 11 Sunday 19 April Harare

    April 19 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Slow start to the day despite having been up at dawn reading my tablet.

    All breakfasted together about 9.00.

    Read while waiting to go grocery shopping but Graham spent the morning fiddling with the electrics of the trailer.

    Had lunch and finally headed for the local (new) Spar supermarket with Graham. Surprised by how much was on offer in a clean, well-presented store. Filled our shopping trolley with items required for Nyanga. Chemist next door before heading home for a cup of tea.

    Took Sabi for a walk with Jean and Viv down passed 'Old McDonald's Farm.

    Watched some IPL cricket before and during dinner.
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  • Day 10 Saturday 18 April Harare

    April 18 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Had a really lazy day unwinding.

    Late breakfast with Jean, joined later by Graham.

    Read emails, responded to posts and caught up to date with my diary (and photos.

    Helped with some unpacking. All our clothes were washed and ironed by Caroline. Jean brought their spaniel, Sabi, back from the kennels.

    After lunch had a siesta

    Read

    In the evening went for a walk down the road with Viv, Jean and Sabi.

    Watched some IPL. Much talk over dinner.

    Bed about 9.30
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  • Day 9 Friday 17 April Masasani

    April 17 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Awoke at dawn with hippos on shore close by and 9 on the far bank. A stunning dawn sky. Made my way to the boma and made a coffee for r both of us, walking it back to our hut.

    Packed up ready for departure and then walked to the boma for some breakfast.

    We left Masasani just after 7.30 a.m. Stopped at the viewpoint again. The Rundi had visibly reduced in size. Paid for firewood at the Park Reception and asked a friendly South African to take a group photo.

    Pushed through the Malalingwi Concession (saw no game) and filled up with petrol at Chiredzi. It was a long drive back to Harare (600 kms) so it was constant travel as we pushed north.

    Chiredzi (extensive sugar cane fields), then Buffal Ranges and on to Zaka where there are some attractive hills. Stopped for morning tea on the side of the road. On to Gutu where the road deteriorated into frequent potholes. 30 minutes of arduous driving. Roadside for another lunch break.

    Dave's car stuttering occasionally with dirt in the petrol. Arrived at the Harare South toll gates where I swapped cars and we farewelled the Whites. They had been fun on our trip.

    Across town to Glen Lorne before dark and all hands helped unpack the trailer and Prado. Jean had prepared a Spaghetti Bolognaise so we sat and talked but were in bed by 9.00 pm.

    It had been a memorable visit to Gonarezhou.
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  • Day 8 Thursday 16 April Chipale

    April 15 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Got up at 5.30 and walked across to the Hendersons' to remove the evidence of our 'non-purchased' firewood and fire ashes. Down to the river bank for a look for animals and sunrise colours but disappointed by both.

    Coffee and read on the verandah listening to the doves and other animals in the distance.

    Packed up and helped load the trailer after breakfast. Left Chipale at 9.30. It had been a great campsite. As we left, we heard via the cleaner Elizabeth that there was no place for us that had been booked at Chipinda Pools (despite Graham booking it and all of us paying for it). Graham negotiated via 2 way radio that we were given alternative accommodation at the Masasam dam campsite.

    We made our way via a tortuous backroad that really tested Dave's car (and his patience). On arrival we found that the cleaners needed more time so we uncoupled the trailer and headed for the Rundi River. The route slowly wound down to the causeway with some spectacular views.

    Viv, Gilly and I walked across, and the whole group picnicked under a shady tree on the south bank. There were a pair of hippos in the pool below us. After a while some park rangers came along and wanted us back on the road, which we did because it was time to move.

    We took the Chivilila Loop road and bounced around on the riverbank until we climbed to the viewpoint for the Chivilila Falls. What a stunning sight! And a real surprise. We ere lucky that the river was in flood (although dropping). Water pouring over rocks everywhere. Much to our surprise we discovered an elephant on a rocky outcrop above cliffs overlooking the roiling water. We wondered how it had got there. What a stunning waterfall and we enjoyed the view immensely.

    Worked our way back to the main road and back to our camp-site at Masasani. Moved into our separate huts and then came together at the boma for a BBQ dinner. Boerewors and steak. Hippos grunting in the dam in front of us.

    Shower in the cabin after filling up the ? with hot water in a bucket from the outside toilet. Under the mosquito net with the front blinds wide open. Hippo sounds and frogs. Slept very well.
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  • Day 7 Wednesday 15 April Chipale

    April 15 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Up at 5.30 and watched the day light increase and the colours of a sunrise over the Chilojo Cliffs. Made a coffee for both of us and then walked down to the Rundi to see whether there were any animals (none) as well as to photograph the sunrise.

    Started to set up for the day when we suddenly saw a mother elephant and her calf 20 metres from the back of our tent. Watched their meanderings for an hour or so during which a large kudos walked passed, followed by a troop of baboons.

    After breakfast wandered across to the Hendersons to find out how they were and what the plans were for the morning. When the Whites arrived the decision was made to pack a picnic lunch and head for the Chilojo picnic area again.

    Saw no game on the way there. Chose no. 3 picnic spot and parked under a tree just on the river bank. All wandered down to the water (apart from Graham) and pottered around. Lunched around 1.00 pm and sat around talking until mid-afternoon.

    Returned to Chipale with Graham & Jean as we followed the river road to the site of Dave's 'donga crash'. Warthog! A lovely family of about 8. Cooed across the river to a campsite on the other bank but despite being noticed it wasn't Fayne.

    Had a cup of tea back at Chipale and read until early evening. Jean had another diabetes episode so we helped with dinner while Graham sorted it all out. Built a fire around which we were joined by Dave & Gilly for a conversation of memories and explanations. Lots of laughter.

    Bed by 9.00
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  • Day 6 Tuesday 14 April Chipale

    April 14 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Had a really good night's sleep and made coffee just after 6.00 am. Wandered around the tent corner to see what the baboons were up to and found the large ebony trees above us alive with them (40+?). They were panicked by us and rushed down to flee but it unsettled us as well as we weren't too sure what they were doing.

    Heard lions in the night.

    Lazy start to the morning. Read, did puzzles, laundry. Got changed when Elizabeth arrived to clean our accommodation.

    Late breakfast and then wandered across to see how the Hendersons were. Jean not feeling well with .migraine symptoms. By mid- morning the Whites had arrived and the decision was made to pack a picnic lunch and go to the Bupomela crossing site.

    The thick undergrowth thinned out as we drove south-east along the river, with the Cliffs across on the far side. Saw zebra, impala and elephants. Turned off the graded road on to a bush track and followed the course of the river.

    About 5 kms short of Bupomela we were halted by a flooded drift that was just that too deep. Turned back and found a shady, grassed picnic spot under a large baobab tree where we had lunch. Stayed until about 2.30 before returning to our Chipale camp ground.

    We came back along the river road and saw a family of warthog. Stopped on the river bank opposite another campsite on the south bank. Tried calling (coo-eee) but got no positive reaction from them so Fayne was obviously not among them (which was disappointing for Viv).

    Relaxed on our return to camp and then got a fire going as everyone joined us for dinner. Lots of talk and laughter as we watched the flames dance in the designated fire place.

    The bed was large, firm and comfortable and we slept well again.
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  • Day 5 Monday 13 April Chipale

    April 14 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Awake at about 6.00 and soon had the kettle boiling for a cup of coffee. A most comfortable bed!

    The cleaner turned up at 6.30 but the other 2 tents were fast asleep.

    Walked down to the river and out across the sand to the water but saw no wildlife.

    Breakfast on our verandah and then we all left for an introductory drive in the vicinity.

    First to Fishans Crossing which was very much underwater and then later to the Chilojo picnic area where we walked down to the water's edge. Sat and talked.
    This was our first real look at the Rundi River and the Chilojo Cliffs. Stunning views, hippos in the river and distant elephants. Kudos and baboons on the way back to out tents.

    Back to camp for a sandwich lunch, a G&T and a siesta despite the tent being hot.

    In the late afternoon Graham took us on a a side trip to the river bank to see whether we could see Fayne Connelly's party on the other sure. Had a good look, saw a group camping but no Fayne. As we left Dave managed to drive into a deep washaway and we were precipitously balanced on the riverbank. Everybody out and fortunately the Hendersons were halted by Viv, and Graham returned to pull Dave out. Quite a bit of drama that we were lucky enough to escape from unscathed.

    Jean not feeling well so final food preparation was completed by Viv in our kitchen. The whole group ate around our successful fire and we talked until tiredness. Plenty of Umtali childhood memories were combed over by Graham, Dave and me.

    Great shower and sound asleep soon after.

    Had seen impala, elephants and female kudos that day.
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  • Day 4 Sunday 12 April Harare

    April 13 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Up at 5.45 and got ourselves ready for a 7.00 am departure. Breakfast and bags (a shared one) into the trailer, assisted by George. Vehicles full of water, food, camping equipment and us.

    Went across town and filled up with petrol, while we ducked around the corner to buy some bottles of water. Met up with Dave & Gilly White just beyond the toll gates. It was good to see them again after all these years.

    It was a long drive of nearly 500 kms to get to our camp-site in Gonarezhou. I swapped cars and travelled with Dave & Gilly which gave both Viv and me the opportunity to spread out a bit in cars loaded with food and drinking water.

    The route took us south and then south-east through Chivhu, Gutu, Zaka, Buffalo Range and Chiredzi. We stopped under shady roadside trees for a morning and lunch sandwich. The road varied from reasonable in patches to dreadfully potholed in some of the urban areas (Gutu).

    Filled up with fuel in Chiredzi (well-maintained sugar cane fields) before turning off towards Gonarezhou through a private game concession (Malalangwe) and then on to the Chipinda Pools entrance to the Gonarezhou National Park. Chatted to some ex-Zimbabwean family who were there from South Africa (one lived in Brisbane).

    Another 37 kms took us to our tented campsite of Chipale. The route had been mainly flat and we saw impala and elephants. However we did climb a ridge for an excellent view of the flooded Rundi River. Quite a sight! Soon the Chilojo Cliffs came into view and we had finally arrived. The Hendersons in Tent 1, the Craigs 50 metres away in Tent 2, and the Whites 800 metres away in Tent 3. All identical and very comfortable and clean. As a result of the recent rains the bush was lush and unusually high making animal viewing difficult (both the Whites & Hendersons said that it would have all disappeared by August).

    We all ate at the Hendersons', around the fire place. Lots of catch up talk. Headed for bed about 10.00 pm totally exhausted.

    There was a large troop of baboons close by and they occupied the trees above our tent overnight with some deep male grunts and female squawks but generally we had a peaceful night (and we were exhausted anyway).
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  • Day 3 Saturday 11 April (in flight)

    April 13 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Flying out over the Indian Ocean, we were served with a good dinner by friendly hostesses (impressive).
    Managed to get some sleep on the 10.5 hours flight. Breakfast before we landed in Johannesburg about 4.00 am. Sleepy Customs officials let us into transit very easily and we wandered around OR Tambo until 8.00 am when the Tshongololo Lounge opened. Showered and breakfasted - and relaxed.

    Boarded the SA20 flight to Harare at 10.00 and 1.25 hours later landed in Harare. Our online entry visa applications had only been partially successful (me) and Viv had to redo hers twice, with the help of a young assistant, before her visa was operational.

    Welcomed by Graham Henderson and we soon loaded up his Toyota Prado before driving across town (huge changes) to Glen Lorne and a welcome from Jean and their spaniel, Sabi.

    Unwound, wandered around the garden and generally relaxed for the afternoon. Met George again, their affable gardener/mechanic, who remembered us from our previous visit.

    Watched a little bit of IPL cricket before dinner over which we chatted. Went off to bed about 9.00 pm totally exhausted and slept soundly.
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  • Day 2 Friday 10 April Manly

    April 10 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Slept very well and had a leisurely breakfast at Jill's before seeing Alex off to work.
    Went down to The Bower with Piers, Bear and Poppy and watched them swimming in the seapool.
    When Piers took Poppy back for a sleep, Viv and I wandered down the Corso and had ban mi in a Vietnamese cafe.
    Back to Jill's for a final pack and shower before heading for Piers' flat to talk.
    Piers dropped us off at the ferry terminal just after 3.00 and made our way to Sydney Domestic airport via ferry and train.
    Beer and don't once we had checked our bags through to Harare. Virgin flight left just after 6.30. Back row but at least had a spare seat between us. Read and dozed.
    Arrived in Perth at 9.30 local time. Stripped searched in Customs!

    Moved through transit and upstairs to International Departures. Went through Customs and Immigration safely and relaxed until our flight was called just before midnight. On board SAA280, a comfortable Airbus 340-300. Watched the lights of Perth and the coast disappear before settling down.
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  • Day 5

    April 5, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Breakfasted 7.15 with Rahul and staff and finally left after 8.00. It had been a great stop at Rann Riders but had eaten for too much.

    It was a morning of diving through flat countryside which slowly changed from farms and villages to huge areas of villagers making salt.Then increasing industrial activity., wind turbines heavy trucks and traffic.

    Our route tok us from Disada, through Patrick,
    Dhrangadhpur,  Halved,, Malia and finally to our first destination of the day.

    We visited the Living & Learning Design Centre (LLDC, a huge museum and workshop) near Bhuj. Fascinting displays and guided tour. Arrived about1.00 and departed at 5.00 pm.

    Met guide PD and taken into a local village, and specifically to a local dyer who uses natural indigo, ,alum , etc. Watched weavers at their looms and then showed the indigo dying process with the vats of indigo (cake made from the leaves), crushed dates and Jagger (sugar cane) and water.

    Viv bought a shawl while I sat outside and chatted to PD and the local family as they went about their evening chose of milking the Brahmin cattle, feeding the calves, etc. Given a shawl, most unexpectedly by the grandfather. The family had won the all-India weaving competition four times in the past.

    A cricket game going on in the street at 8.30 as we left. Drove through crowded streets into Bhuj  a huge city substantially rebuilt after a devastating earthquake of 2001 when thousands died. Found Bhuj House hotel, a traditional home turned into a small hotel. As we arrived,  a mosque opened up with an evening call to prayer,  part of Ramadan. Shower and late meal with DK and Anita. Chatted to the owner (Johan?) before heading for bed at 10.00. It had been a busy day
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  • Day 4 The Asiatic Wild Asses plus

    April 4, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Our alarm went off at 5.15 am and we got ourselves ready for a game drive in the Little Rann of Kutch. Lead by Hator, we climbed into a Gypsy at 6.00 am and drove through the village of Desada and onwards with the ground becoming increasingly salty and the bushes more and more thorn scrub.

    Once we had reached the Wild Ass Reserve we followed crispy, salty tyre tracks across the flat landscape (reminiscent of the Nai Pans or Maghadighadii in Botswana) looking for wildlife.

    Eventually we found 3 photographers (the only other people we saw all morning) parked near a fox's den, waiting for the mother to return to the pups hiding in a hole in a bank. Shortly afterwards we spotted the mother and moved closer to her, watching her digging for grubs. Back at the hide, we were able to watch a pup emerge on the bank.

    Later we moved on, searching for wild ass. Came across a herd of young males but they were skittish and moved off. When a larger herd appeared we approached fairly closer, stopped and watched them, and then had breakfast at the same time. Eventually we walked towards the herd and they allowed us to get really close before breaking into a run. Ir was great!

    Then it was on to visit the salt workers and watched them operating at their pans, skimming the salt crystals off the top of the salt beds by hand and tractor..
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  • Day 3 Ahmedabad to Desada

    April 3, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We met DK and Anita downstairs at breakfast at 7.30 as life stirred around us Reasonable choice. On the road by 8.30 heading through the city traffic northwards to Modhera and its famous Sun Temple. Delegates from a G20 meeting were scheduled to visit later in the day but we were able to see the entire siteand benefit from a dance rehearsal for later important visitors.

    We shown around the Hindu Temple by guide Vipal who explained the intricacies of the design - from cleansing pool, to the first temple and then finally the inner sanctuary in the second building. All clearly aligned with the fising sun at the equinox shining through the doors of both buildings to strike the holiest part. Numbers of columns, panels,etc.,etc all conforming to Hindu beliefs. Fantastic cravings.

    On our way out we watched the very impressive dance routines being practiced for later.

    From Modhera, joined by Vipal, we travelled north to Patan and its UNESCO World Heritage stepwell. On arrival there did not appear to be much there other than lawns shrubs, and a few monkeys. However, from the rim climbing slowly down through the 7 distinctive levels I became increasingly impressed
    It's an incredible building with more superb carvings. It was a huge surprise for me and definitely worth the visit.

    We returned to Modhera to drop off Vipal and then turned eastwards and eventually Disada. We kept phoning and delaying lunch at our next hotel. Rann Riders.and eventually sat down with the owner, Rahul, and some of his staff at 4.00. Rann Riders is an impressive quality retreat with high levels of performance.

    That evening we were taken to meet Mir tribal people near the village of Desada, buying bracelets and.entering their tents for an inspection. From the Mir we moved to nearby cattleherders, the ? and walked down their village streets. Engaged with the kids by taking photos and then showing them the results.

    Back to Rann Riders for a shower and a meal (which we thought was dinner) near the swimming pool & clay pigeon range. Talked to Rahul and others. Then at 10.00 it was back to the dining room for a large dinner. Rahul was definitely trying to impress DK! I have never eaten so much food, not want to upset our hosts.

    Bed at midnight, bloated and exhausted. But it had been a good day.
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  • Day 2 Sydney to Ahmedabad

    April 2, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We were up reasonably early with the boys and Lara and Al around us. Checked to see how Piers and Trent were doing with their insurance race. Breakfasted and finished picking.  Picked up by Uber driver Hashim at 7.30 and a fast run through the rain to the airport. Traffic congestion around the international terminal but eventually we were inside and became involved in the check-in, customs and immigration  process.

    While buying Australian presents for DK,  Anita and their boys, news came through that Piers and Trent had won their pairs category in the 130 kms endurance race, after 20.5 hours of competition, the last 8 hours in steady rain.  Very proud of them both.

    Flew SQ232 for nearly 8 hours to reach Singapore. Vary full plane and we were in the back row,  next to a South African transferring to a new job in Singapore. Watched it couple of movies but dozed intermittently.

    Had a quick change at Changi (about 1 hour) before we were aboard SQ 502 for a 5 hour flight to Ahmedabad.  Much emptier so Viv grabbed one row and i another as we tried to get some sleep. Slow through the airport officials, particularly the e-visa section, and then on to a very slow money exchange booth (Sunday 10.00 pm)  before emerging to find DK and Anita waiting for us - a very welcome sight!

    Taken in a minibus with a driver through the streets of Ahmedabad to the House of MG, the converted home of a very wealthy merchant. Straight to bed after 23 hours of travel.  Exhaustive but happy to be back in India.
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  • Day 1 From Narrawallee to East Lindfield

    April 1, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    What a hectic day! A houseful of 3 nervous/excited athletic adventurers and a dog that was freaked out by suitcases being packed and strangers in his home. Piers had arrived the previous evening, followed soon after by his friend Trent and Matt. They were down in Ulladulla to take part in a 24 hour adventure race.

    So, it was an early start for all. Piers and friends had breakfasted, sorted out their gear and departed by 9.30. Beni watched us compete our packing very nervously and pulled items out when we weren't looking. Very frustrating and much bribery occurred. Last minute activities got in the way of dropping Beni off at the Ulladulla Pet Motel and we suddenly realised this 10 minutes after closing time. A mad panic followed with frantic unanswered phone calls and a fairly quick trip to south Ulladulla. Fortunately I was able to drop him off, and my anxiety levels could drop back to normal.
    Finally packed the car and went down to the Civic Centre to watch the start of Piers' race. Saw him off to Warden Headland and then come passed us on the Harbour beach before heading north in the car.

    Brief stop in Nowra (camer battery and Maccas for lunch)and we pushed through to East Lindfield by 5.00pm.

    Pizza supper with Niels and Reid, with Lara and Al going to a school function.

    Very tired and an early night in preparation for hours of flying tomorrow.
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  • Day 18. And finally home

    October 14, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After an extended stay in Johannesburg we caught our onward overnight flights - the group to Perth and Peter Craig to London.

    No problems in Australian Customs so everybody is delighted that their souvenirs/gifts are safely in the country.

    Many thanks to all concerned. It is a huge responsibility for the adults who are on call 24 hours a day for the 18 days. Mrs Calver’s pastoral role was significant and often demanding. Mr Marnoch ensured that Oxley maintained its standards at all times. Mrs Marnoch provided a valuable support role. Their team work was much appreciated.

    Those Oxleyans visiting Botswana in 2019 acquitted themselves extremely well.
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  • Day 17. Homeward Bound

    October 13, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    We were in no rush this morning with breakfast at 8.00. Tents were cleared and bags stored in Mr Craig’s tent, ready for delivery at the airport by midday.

    After breakfast we eventually climbed on to our transport for our last ride into Maun and we were dropped off adjacent to the airport. Once everybody had arrived we climbed up to the first floor movie theatre for a showing of biographical tribute to the life of Tim Liversedge. Tim has had a huge impact on the Maun region, as a scientist, a travel industry entrepreneur, and a cinematographer (Roar: Lions of the Kalahari). For his work as a naturalist Tim was given an honorary doctorate by the Smithsonian Institute in Washington DC.

    Tim and June Liversedge were in attendance after the video and it was great to catch up with them (as we have done for the past 3 visits). We adjourned to the cafe around the corner and were joined by Senatla Mokobela, the Sedie principal.

    From there we collected our bags and checked in for our flight to Johannesburg. The small SALink jet took 1:20 to get to ORTambo in Johannesburg. After clearing Customs we headed for the familiar cafe to base ourselves for the duration of our transition.
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  • Day 16. Horse-back game-viewing

    October 12, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    There was no urgency about the start of today. No wake-up calls, no hurry-ups. Half of the group had no deadline to meet. All wandered slowly up to breakfast at 7.00 in their own time.

    By 7.30 we had been joined by local resident, Dany Hancock, of Rides on the Wildside, who had split the students into 2 groups, one to ride in the morning and the other in the afternoon. Dany had organised our transport to the private game reserve where we were to ride. We were soon on the back of a truck and because the Thamalakane River is dry were able to take a short cut across the river bed to the horse stables.

    Once inside the reserve we divided again with one group grooming horses and the other riding. Led by a guide, with an assistant behind, we rode in single file gradually increasing in confidence as the ride progressed. Some groups walked, other more competent riders were able to be more challenged.

    In the course of the ride we were able to see close up several giraffes, eland, zebra, springbok, gemsbok, ostrich and monkeys. It was a great way to view the wildlife: very different to our previous experiences.

    The two groups then swapped over, both having a ride, a grooming session and a period of relaxation back in the camp at Sitatunga. The theory for those back in camp was to pre-pack and organise (R&R) before the start of the long haul tomorrow to return home.

    Charlotte, the Sitatunga cook, did us proud again for dinner - steak and boerewors. We had our final de-brief of the tour and then talked about tomorrow’s arrangements for our travel to the airport and onwards.

    It was a tired group who headed for bed - but everyone had had a great ride.
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  • Day 15 Our last school day

    October 11, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    The Delta Rain vehicles were being used for many different activities this morning - ferrying us to Sedie as well as collecting tour groups from the delta - so to accommodate all that our transport left Sitatunga Camp at 7.00 am. We were at Sedie in time to join the morning assembly which lasted about 10 minutes.

    After that we, and our Sedie buddies, and a couple of teachers, climbed aboard a bus organised by the school and drove across town to visit the Delta Waters International School (a private school with about 800 primary and 170 secondary students, including some boarders).

    We were made extremely welcome at the school at an assembly which included speeches, some marimba music and some singing. The quality was extremely high. From the assembly we broke up into 4 groups who were exposed to different activities - traditional Setswana games, conservation club, science and basketball.

    There is much in common between Oxley and Delta Waters. Both were established by small groups of parents wanting a local alternative to sending their children away to boarding schools.. Both took on great financial risk at the beginning. Delta Waters has developed a little oasis in the harsh Botswanan Kalahari with green lawns, playing fields and a swimming pool.

    We arrived back at Sedie JSS by midday and found a shady spot for lunch. After that we met up with our buddies in the hall and sat in discussion groups to get to know each other better. A lively conversation hum soon started.

    By 1.30 our transport had arrived and we spent an hour in town, with most looking at the curio stalls for momentos of their visit. Back at Sitatunga Camp we had a lazy afternoon, swimming, playing volleyball or using the wifi. Dany Hancock, of Rides on the Wildside (tomorrow’s horse ride), came by to say hello.

    Refreshed, we were ready for the Farewell BBQ put on by Sedie JSS.. In 2 vehicles we returned to school where tables had been laid out in a quadrangle. We were joined by our buddies and their parents. Speeches were made and prayers said, and the meal followed. It was a good way to end our visit to the school. Many friendships had started and others renewed.

    Back at camp we had a short briefing to let everyone know what was happening on our final full day in Botswana. And then it was time for bed. Our visit to the schools had ended on a high note.
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  • Day 14. (Day 2 Mathiba)

    October 10, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

    We are now used to the routine of getting ready for school & breakfasting prior to departure from Sitatunga. This morning - a cloudy, cooler day to start with - we set off before 7.15 and drove through Maun centre, passed the airport, to Mathiba Memorial Primary School. The school is at the end of the airport runway and we had frequent small aircraft, delta lodge bound, take off over us in the course of the morning.

    The 1000+ students started lining up for Assembly as we arrived and once we were in position in front of them we were treated to a whole-assembly dance and song, which was a fabulous African greeting. They were remarkably rhythmic and intensely focused, the little ones keenly determined to do their best.

    At the end of Assembly and introductions from their Executives and Stephen Marnoch, they started singing “When the Saints go marching in” and year groups peeled off and went to their classrooms .

    The remaining Standard IIs were divided into small groups, which found a shady spot, and Oxley began its teaching morning.

    The pairs of Oxley students spent the next 2 hours teaching, swapping groups every 40 minutes or so for the variety. It was great fun and everybody enjoyed the experience.

    After break, we walked out of the ‘Oxley Gates’ the 400 metres to the local clinic. After a bit of a wait, while the waiting room emptied, we entered the HIV Aids section where we listened to a talk by a male nurse and an administrator. We were given an overview as to how the clinic dealt with their patients.

    Returning to Mathiba, we sat in the shade of an admin building corridor and ate our packed lunch.

    After lunch, we were invited by the Standard VIs to a ‘cultural welcome’. It was a most interesting hour or so. Mathiba have really worked hard to make our visit memorable and their organisation has been impressive. It is obvious they value their link with Oxley.

    Staff spoke, children acted in traditional costume, singing and ululating occurred, a gift was given and games played (a local traditional board game) and skipping took place. It also gave Oxley the opportunity to handover the books and games each student had brought. It was a great ending to our visits to Mathiba this trip and we were sad to say farewell to the friends we had made.

    While we waited for our transport to arrive, the wind gusted, a storm blew up and there was lightning and thunder. A few raindrops fell - Oxley’s first in their visits to Botswana - but nothing really came of it. We hope that it is the start of a much needed rainy season.

    The usual ‘Choppies’ supermarket stop occurred on the way home to camp and we were back by 5.00. Everyone relaxed until our guest speakers arrived at 6.00. We had a fascinating evening with Drs Leanne van der Weyde and Jess Isden sharing their experience in cheetah (Leanne) and lion (Jess) conservation and mitigation. This was the third time the two had shared their experiences with Oxley groups and it is really appreciated.

    Jess and Leanne joined us for dinner - as did Edward of the Sedie Science Department - and it was an interesting conversation.

    We broke up about 9.00 and slowly headed for bed, exhausted. It had been a busy, rewarding and overwhelming (by the enthusiasm of the Mathiba staff and students) sort of day.
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  • Day 13. (Day 2 Sedie, Day 1 Mathiba)

    October 9, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    Today we were in less of a hurry to get to Sedie JSS and we took on the Maun morning traffic. Once at school we waited for some time to be allocated to our classes. In groups of about 5 we attended classes until morning break. Most of the classes were doing revision for their Form III exams which start next week.

    At break we left Sedie and walked the 800 metres to next door Mathiba Memorial Primary School. Previously the entrance to the school had been unimposing but now there’s an impressive set of gates that clearly state the relationship between Oxley College and Mathiba., of which they are most proud.

    We were all taken into the Mathiba staff room and were welcomed by the Mathiba Head (Noah) and his staff. Mr Marnoch spoke on behalf of Oxley and the meeting ended with a prayer.

    From there we went outside where a group of Standard IV students danced for us in traditional costume. It was most impressive!

    Then, in pairs of Oxley students, we were allocated groups of Mathiba students and, after looking for shade in the school grounds we set about engaging with the primary students. Some played games, others read stories or coloured in Australian animals. We had great fun and everybody enjoyed themselves. A return to Mathiba tomorrow is now eagerly anticipated.

    We walked back to Sedie for the packed lunch we had brought with us from the camp and sat in the shade of the car park to eat it. The afternoon was so hot that by mutual agreement activities were cancelled and we returned, via a supermarket stop for water, to Sitatunga.

    After a shower or swim we were ready for the local challenge of a football and netball game with neighbouring villagers. A short trip on one of the trucks, a greeting (dumela) to the headmen of the 4 adjacent kraals, and the games started. Everybody had fun, enjoyed themselves and the Oxley teams gave a good showing against the local adults.
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  • Day 12 (Day 1 Sedie JSS)

    October 8, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    We were determined to be on time for our first school day so the wake up call was 5.30, with breakfast at 6.00. By 7.00 our transport had arrived and dressed in our Oxley sports uniform we climbed aboard our trucks for the 45 minute drive to Sedie School. To avoid the morning rush hour traffic we took a couple of ‘long cuts’ on unpaved roads but we were on time.

    Once at Sedie Junior Secondary School we were ushered into a nearby staff room where we received a formal welcome to Sedie, to Mathiba Primary School and to Maun. In attendance were the Heads of both schools, a representative of the Ministry of Education, a parent and several staff. When the guests departed, our ‘buddies’ entered the room and we individually made their acquaintance.

    After that we went on a tour of the school, visiting the computer room, the library, kitchens, Home Economics and Art rooms.

    After a morning break students went with their buddies to class while the staff talked to the Head of Sedie, Mrs Senatla Mokobele.

    At midday, we somewhat haphazardly used transport to get to the Nhabe Museum in town where we were shown around by the curator. Afterwards we had lunch sitting in the shade in the museum grounds.

    From the museum we were transferred to the Maun kgotla where we were welcomed to Maun by 3 important chiefs. The conversation broadened as some good questions were asked and the chiefs warmed to the occasion. It became a most interesting session.

    We were picked up from the kgotla and taken into town to buy water (plus). It had been a long day by the time we got into camp.

    However, everyone perked up as they began to listen to our esteemed visitor, the world-renowned rhino conservationist, Map Ives. We sat out in the open in front of the restaurant, in the cool of the evening and found his talk fascinating. Oxley asked plenty of questions and got some interesting responses.

    https://youtu.be/Bw9sHvr7NVM

    Map left us before dinner which we ate in the restaurant. A de-brief of the day followed ( a lot of good things occurred: other aspects need to be re-assessed).

    We had no problem directing all to their tents at 9.30.
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  • Day 11. Our return to Sitatunga from the

    October 7, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    It was a slow start to the morning as it was our intention to leave the island at 9.00. We are now used to de-camping so it did not take us long to get ready. With the help of the 20 polers we were soon able to leave the campsite as clean as we found it.

    It was an hour’s pole to the village of Daunara where we were met by the Delta Rain crew (who run Sitatunga and the delta mokoros) and we loaded the vehicles. We said farewell to our poler friends, and Charlotte G thanked them and gave Mr K a large tip for him to share among them.

    Our visit to the Okavango had been a huge success. What a great array of animals we had seen and the mokoros and their polers had been special.

    It was a 2 hour drive back to Maun where we bought more water (and an ice cream or two) before heading 13 kms out of town to Sitatunga Camp. Bheki had looked after the truck and our suitcases in our absence and he had prepared lunch for us.

    After lunch we helped them pack all their camping equipment and then had a farewell gathering to say goodbye to Bheki and Munya. Aiofe thanked Bheki and Millie thanked Munya. Both spoke well and passed on a well-deserved gratuity to each of them. The truck left soon afterwards, on its way back to base in Victoria Falls .

    We had a lazy afternoon after moving into our Meru-style tents (each has its own en-suite). Swimming , volleyball, laundry, reading. The temperature sat in the high 30s but it is a dry heat.

    Everyone was hungry by dinner time and we had our first meal prepared by the Sitatunga cooks. It was a great success, eaten under the stars. Two Sedie teachers, Bofelo and Sebubu, came to say hello to everyone and stayed for a drink.

    We had no problem suggesting that their new beds should be tried out at the end of another hot day.
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  • Day 10 On an Okavango Delta island

    October 6, 2019 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Mr K woke the entire camp at 5.00 am and we were soon up . The kettle had been boiled on the fire so we started the day with a hot drink and a rusk. By 5.45 we were down at the mokoros and we were soon ferried the short distance across the channel to start our morning walk.

    Breaking up into the same 4 groups as the previous day we headed off in different directions, led by a guide, with an assistant bringing up the rear. The walk lasted 4 hours in total with frequent stops to observe the wildlife and a mid-walk halt where we sat in the shade on the side of a termite mound.

    Most groups saw the same animals but obviously in different circumstances. Our group came across a herd of 12 giraffe, with a similar number of zebra nearby, as well as impala. Continuing our walk we saw warthog, a Secretary bird, 3 bushbuck, a large herd of buffalo and a herd of wildebeest. In the distance we saw elephants.

    On our return we saw smaller groups of the same animals as the heat of the day began to rise and animals sought cover. Back at camp we were welcomed by one of Munya’s amazing breakfasts.

    For the rest of the day, apart from lunch at 1.00, we either sought shade and read or played loud, noisey games, or dozed: while some did wash/swim in the waterhole or try their hand at poling a mokoro.

    By 5.00 pm we were all aboard our mokoros and were taken by our polers along a nearby watercourse . Round the corner we sat and watched 5 elephants move across in front of us from one bank to the other. There were herons and long-tailed shrike, and water lilies in the wider sections of the channel.

    As the sun neared the horizon we arrived at a large expanse of water inhabited by 8 hippos. We sat, in our mokoros, close to the reeds and watched the hippos sink and resurface, and the sun ball slowly disappear. It was a beautiful setting and a stunning scene.

    In the gathering gloom, we returned to camp where Munya had prepared a great ‘African’ meal. He has certainly done us proud and there has always been ample available.

    After dinner water was sprinkled on the sand around the campfire and the polers gathered for songs and dances, entertaining the group. There were some great acts, the highlights of which were ‘the old man’ dance and the ‘frog dance’. We ended the polers contribution by having a black and white song (polers and Oxleyans mixed),’Beautiful Africa’.

    Oxley decided to sing to the polers and they were entertained by the School Song and the School Hymn, followed by Advance Australia Fair.

    It had been another day of memorable, but exhausting , experiences and it was not difficult to persuade everyone to go to bed.
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