Portugal
Esposende

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    • Day 24

      Day 21/10 Esposende to Viana do Castelo

      May 24, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Our walk today started under cloudy skies with a slight wind and a cool 12 degrees. A fairly long 27 km journey was on the agenda along the Caminho's coastal route. Despite the coastal monicker, most of today's travels were on inland trails, with a couple of fairly long, steep stretches over difficult terrain. Other parts were through beautiful forested areas alongside a rapidly moving stream. The final couple kilometers were over a heavily trafficked bridge, high over the river where we were buffeted by extremely high winds. We all breathed a sigh of relief when we reached the north shore.

      Brenda and I stopped for coffee at the 9.15 km mark in Belinho where we rejoined Ernita (our new name for Ernie and Anita) who had taken a route that more closely followed the coast. We didn't stop again until Chafe, 19 kms into our walk. We had a very substantial lunch but were seriously overcharged for the meal we had. On the plus side, it was very delicious and filling.

      On our journey today we saw a cactus on the verge of exploding into fill bloom, a trio of crucifixes where we suspect an annual recreation may take place during the Easter season, a lemon tree laden with grapefruit-sized fruit, several lovely and/or historic churches, a shrine to the Caminho, and, at our destination, Viana do Castelo, a hilltop cathedral, a street adorned with colorful umbrellas and a statue of a monk on his ass (donkey, that is).

      We wrapped up our day with a great meal just a stones throw from our hotel.

      Tomorrow is a short 18 km walk to our next destination. Let's hope it warms up a little before we hit the road on the morning.
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    • Day 23

      Day 20/9 Vila do Conde to Esposende

      May 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      With another big walk ahead of us, we hit the road at 7:00 this morning under overcast skies and 17 degrees with a forecast of rain from 8:00 to 11:00.

      The first few kilometers of the day ran through residential neighborhoods with little excitement except for a trio of ducks waddling down the sidewalk. But, before we knew it, we were strolling oceanside along the longest boardwalk I've ever seen.

      We had planned to stop for coffee at A Ver-O-Mar, but found nothing open this Monday morning. We pushed on to the next town, Aguçadoura, located at the 10.9 km mark, and still had no luck until Brenda found a "top-rated" pastry shop 8 minutes off the Caminho trail. And that's where things got interesting.

      Yesterday, during dinner, one of Brenda's dental crowns disintegrated. We called our travel insurance provider who confirmed this was not covered by our plan, but gave us the name of a dentist in Esposende. While at the cafe in Aguçadoura, I managed to reach the dentist and, with my one month's Duolingo Portuguese training, succeeded in communicating Brenda's need for an emergency appointment that afternoon. And then the receptionist responded and totally lost me. Brenda turned to the couple seated at the table next to us and asked if they spoke English and they kindly offered to assist us. As it turned out, the woman is from Agaçadoura, but has been living in Toronto with her husband for the last eighteen years! Unfortunately, the dental office had no appointments available, but we were once again treated to the unbelievable kindness of the Portuguese people. On top of that, the pastries were outstanding.

      That little detour and chat with fellow Canadians put us far behind Anita and Ernie, but we caught up with them in Apulia at the 17.6 km mark. While we were chasing them down, the skies opened and we had our first real exposure to rain since I arrived. We walked for about ninety minutes in the rain, which was quite heavy at times. I'm pleased to report that my quick-drying clothing worked extremely well and was not even damp when we started back on the trail for the final 7 kms to Esposende.

      As luck would have it, Brenda managed to book a 4:00 dentist appointment and had a temporary crown installed on her exposed tooth.

      Tomorrow is another long day: 26.4 kms to Viana do Castelo as we get closer and closer to the Spanish border.

      They say that The Caminho will always take care of you and, with all our good fortune today, the proof was in the pudding.
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    • Day 5

      Esposende

      May 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

      Another beautiful day absent rain.
      Today was a 14.7 mile long, windy, roadside slog to Esposende.
      Roy’s face is wind/sun burned but he is in good humor.
      We haven’t found any Peregrino specific offerings. While expensive Roy has chosen his meals wisely & has enjoyed them. We are tired with aches & pains. Turning in early. Tomorrow is a longer walk.
      Hotel Del Mar.
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    • Day 21

      Esposende Day #2

      June 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

      Day #2 According to my itinerary today was an average day with respect to a distance of 20 km 27, 300 steps. We walked along the coast then through ‘greenhouse’ country, a bit of bush with lots of eucalypts , into Fao ( good coffee) crossed a river and along the sea front to a lovely quiet hitel in Esposende. A highlight was a superb mural ‘Women of the sea etched in concrete.
      It isn’t very busy on the track but I reckon in a month it’ll liven up. Met an ‘octapussy’ fisherman, got passed by cyclist and a motorised kite! Loving the hydrangeas, fishing boats and villages
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    • Day 21

      Povoa De Varzim-Esposende #2

      June 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

      Day #2 According to my itinerary today was an average day with respect to a distance of 20 km 27, 300 steps. We walked along the coast then through ‘greenhouse’ country, a bit of bush with lots of eucalypts , into Fao ( good coffee) crossed a river and along the sea front to a lovely quiet hitel in Esposende. A highlight was a superb mural ‘Women of the sea etched in concrete.
      It isn’t very busy on the track but I reckon in a month it’ll liven up. Met an ‘octapussy’ fisherman, got passed by cyclist and a motorised kite! Loving the hydrangeas, fishing boats and villages
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    • Day 1

      Day 2 - Porto to Esposende

      June 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Wow , what a first day in the saddle. 60km all relatively flat. I chose to do the coastal route due to the weather conditions. With three days of thunderstorms and rain forecast along all of the route it was inevitable that I would be getting wet at some point.
      Leaving Porto was difficult in all of the traffic and trams, but once over the bridge it was a beautiful coastal ride. Bicycles are not allowed on some of the boardwalks that are reserved for walkers only, I rode the cycle paths along side them, although it was not a challenging day in the saddle, it was a stunningly beautiful one. I stopped in Vila do Conde at lunch time and to get the obligatory stamp, which came free with a small beer, so why not indulge. Leaving Vila do Condo was on kilometres of cobbles roads. Took me straight back to when I did the Paris Roubaix sportif. Lots of memories flooded back, making it a hard emotional day, solo riding in the rain, some tears shed, but I realised that each solo peddle stroke is one closer to healing.
      With the thunderstorms really coming in strong I decided to check into a small hostel for the evening. After a shower and change, headed out into Esposende for a good old fashion northern mooch. Finding a little French bar and chatting to the owners in French, what a treat. They gave me some French wine and some of their own French cheese. God love the French. I have missed it.
      Tomorrow it’s an early start to miss the rain. Until then Bonne Nuit mon amours.
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    • Day 72

      Radtour im NP Litoral Norte

      April 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Am Nachmittag fahren wir weiter entlang der Küste nach Norden und machen in Esposende eine kleine Radtour durch den NP Litoral Norte. Der kleine Naturpark liegt an den Flussmündungen der Flüsse Cávado und Neiva. Wir radeln durch Dünen und kleine Kiefernwälder.Read more

    • Day 6

      Day 2 of Camino De Santiago

      September 3, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Omg today was brutal. From km 1 to km 20 I wanted to give up and take the bus. Thank God I did 30km yesterday because I never would of made it to this village today. My neck and back hurt (from carrying this majorly overweight 20 pound backpack), I now have 3 major blisters on my feet and my hips are killing me.

      I met some French people along the way who I thought were quebequers (they were wearing a QC flag poncho after all) but turns out they were from France. Their daughter lives in Montreal so they bought the ponchos last year when they went to visit her lol. I don't know what it is but it's such a nice feeling for French people when we hear someone else speak our language. There were alot of people ou this route today. I did not like crossing so many pilgrims. The road was also terrible after the first 4k. Stone roads, damp forests and poor villages. It was also very rainy all day which maybe played on my mood!

      From the looks of it online every place was booked in the stop-over village for tonight. Luckily my savior (Marlene the French owner of my hostel yesterday) came to my rescue! She phoned her friend in this village at the Esposende guest house and hallelujah - she found me a 4-bed bedroom to myself for 16 Euro!! I couldn't of been happier. I went to the store to buy food to make a salad and a bottle of wine and am taking the evening to stay in and lay on the patio with my book. I met a Spanish gay couple at the hostel before supper who were adorable. They must be 70 and doing the camino. I was able to understand that they like Canadians and that they did the camino Frances. That's about all. My Spanish is terrible. I later met a German woman who gave me advice on which way to take for the rest of the camino for it to be less busy. And how to take care of my blisters. Apparently alot of people get them on this walk - I'm not the only one!

      Anyway, I hope tomorrow will go better for my physical self. I've decided to abandon my walking sticks in hopes of liberating some weight. They're awkward and I don't use them anyway since the landscape is literally flat. There goes 20 Euro for nothing. Let's hope this 1 pound off makes a difference for tomorrow!

      P.s. I am obsessed with this wine! I've never tasted such a thing before. It's a red wine but almost fizzy... Whatttt. My new favourite wine ever. I hope we have it at home! Mom and Mireille you would love this one!
      P.p.s. This village looks soooo cute but I literally can't walk anymore so I'll have to skip the visiting. It took me 15 minutes to walk to the grocery store when the GPS said 3. 😑
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    • Day 5–6

      Ankunft im Hotel

      April 17 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      3 Stunden zu früh bin ich im Hotel in Esposende angekommen. Nun ein wenig ausruhen. Danach die Stadt angucken und was ordentliches zu Essen suchen. Gelaufen heute bis jetzt 21km.

    • Day 95

      ESPOSENDE

      February 26, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Auf meinem Weg nach Porto biege ich immer wieder links oder rechts ab und mache einen kurzen Stopp, ich besichtige entweder eine Kirche oder ich gehe am Strand spazieren zur Übernachtung habe ich mir den Gemeinde Stellplatz ausgesucht der sehr groß ist und nicht überfüllt. Mittags habe ich mir ein Wild gekocht mit Rotwein aber es war dann nicht unbedingt so dass ich sage wow das Fleisch hat deinen eigenen Beigeschmack.
      Und Ich habe mich entschlossen heute dunkles Brot selber zu backen
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