Portugal
Esposende

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    • Day 5

      Day 4 - Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende

      April 26, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Woke at 3am and couldn’t get back to sleep, so finally gave up and hit the road just before 6am. Slight panic that the blister I have would hinder the journey, but after a while I didn’t even feel it.
      Lots of coffee stops to break up the walk, and quite a few cats. If I could, I would take them all home and look after them 😕
      Back to hostel living tonight, but have just the one roommate - Rita from London. Other walkers have been slightly standoffish but that’s ok - we’re all just doing our own thing, afterall. The locals on the other hand have been delightful and those little interactions have brought a smile to my face. From the man who came out of the cemetery to try and give me a walking pole someone had left behind - not a dead person, but a girl who’d just walked past and left it at the cemetery gate - to the cyclist who told me “de santo não tem nada!” when I said “santinha!” to his friend, to everyone who says “bom dia”, people have been friendly and welcoming.
      Also, food, glorious food! Had bacalhao a bras followed by arroz doce for lunch, and promptly fell into a food coma when I checked in 🤣
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    • Day 23

      Day 18 - to Esposende

      May 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      This was our easiest walk yet - exactly 15 miles and no hills. A bit windy near the end but not bad - and no sand storm. We really weren't even tired when finishing.

      Part of the walk was right along the beach while other parts were through towns and green spaces. We passed by a golf course that was just off the beach and saw a few football matches.

      For several hours, we were accompanied by 29 year old Oleh from the Ukraine. Oleh is living and working in Munich. He went there to complete his master's and then got a job. When the war in Ukraine started, his father lost his job. It was decided that Oleh would stay in Germany to work and help support his family in the Ukraine while his 59 year old father serves in the artillery of Ukraine's army. He can not go back to Ukraine. From this mother's perspective, it breaks my heart. He is walking the Camino looking for an emotional respite as the last year has been emotionally very difficult for him.

      We had lunch at a cafe in Fao, just a short distance before we stopped for the day. The owner was quite friendly and even provided his card with phone number in the event we needed help. Right before leaving, he decorated 2 stones as souvenirs.
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    • Day 2–3

      Vila Praia de Arcona

      October 9, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Es gibt nicht viel Neues. Das Wetter spielt verrückt und ich muss zusehen, daß ich von Ort zu Ort komme. Das Wetter wechselt zwischen Starkregen und Sturm. Es soll auch erstmal so bleiben. Aber die neuen Schuhe sind wirklich wasserdicht. Das Wasser was reinläuft bleibt tatsächlich auch drin. Es kann nur besser werden. Ich halte durch.Read more

    • Day 6

      Made it to Esposende!

      August 2, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      About 16 miles today! About half near the ocean, then accidentally got off course and did part of the coastal Camino (which is actually not by the coast). But found my way back to the Litoral way. Met two mother/daughter pairs - one was an 11 year old and her mom from Belgium, and another was from Denmark and pushing her toddler in a stroller. So impressive, they were the sweetest.

      My legs and feet are definitely feeling it today! Was limping along the last couple of miles and got a darn blister. I know plenty of Caminos have ended because of blisters, so moleskinned around it really well and hoping it doesn’t get too much bigger or more painful. My hostel is super cute (again), going to rest my legs and feet as much as possible tonight and hope they can last another 16 miles tomorrow 😳
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    • First Peregrinos Menu

      September 17, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Waiter just asks if you want meat or fish , wine or beer then you get what he brings you .... We'll see... I choose Fish just noticed option on Meat option is Cow Guts ... I assume that's tripe !
      I'vd been joined by Hans from Switzerland and I had skate and he had cod and we shared with two coffee and a complementary glass of Port is cost 20€ for us both. Hans reckons we were lucky the Peregrino menu is typically heavy on carbs and loads of chips soups and bread but I'm not complaining Good Night
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    • Good Morning

      September 18, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Up and shower and packed good sleep last night .I seem to be first up in hostel breakfast @730 but I think I will stay as I may not be able to get coffee on the road for a while . Today was supposed to be my long day 30k but hope it's not as long as Monday . I will just try and keep steady pace I am booked in tonight to an Alberque which is supposed to be one of the ' must stay' locations but I'll get there when I get there .
      Esponade - Carréco 30k ref Google Maps and some hills today
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    • Day 6

      The Boredwalk - Day 3

      April 9, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      Woke up: Pousada de Junventude (albergue)
      Destination: unknown

      Bored, bored, bored was most of today.

      But I did wake up feeling no where near as bad as I thought I would. So that gave me a good kick of motivation. As well as the mindset I would get as far as I could.

      I headed out alone. And was alone for most of today. There was a never-ending boardwalk that also cut in land which got super lush. Eucalyptus trees. And lots of allotments.

      Oh and I bumped into Julia and Greg, the volunteers from Boston, working in the first pilgrim hostel in Porto. How coincidinks is that? Literally bumped into them - how can you be in a completely different country for 4 days and meet people you know, 50km away, at the exact same time. The Camino, sure lets you know with synchronousity that you doing something right by being here.

      The Camino also Provides - and so it did. Only 20 mins after wishing I’d brought the physio ball for under the feet, a cyclist flagged me down and just randomly gave me a golf ball. No words, no actions with it. Just gave me one. Which came in plenty handy this evening in relaxing my feet.

      I’d changed my footwear not too long in as I felt certain pain. Glad I did as I spotted the beginnings of a blister. So I changed, with much more room, and ventilation to the feet. So tied my boots on to my bag - although little did I know how long I was going to be in them.

      Some signposts along the way LIED! They said from when you started a particular section it would be 12.5 km till Esponede (the ideal destination for the day).

      And so on one boardwalk section, that took inland, taking me (now I know, away from the Senda Literol path to the official coastal) - it made me aware I had only 2.5 km to go. Brillant - I’ll book my hostel then!

      Happy as only previously I was half tempted to stop in a albergue on the path. Was super cute but it felt too rural for what I was after. Especially if the destination was so near.

      I ploughed on. Walking into forest tracks, aware of a female pilgrim not too far behind. The birds chirping in my head cheerleading me on. I came to a cross roads, and it was this point I realised I’d followed Camino signs off the senda litoral and on to the official costal. As I could work out why I was off the path marked on my phone, but the signs were saying different. It was at this point a man on a tractor beckoned me to come towards him, and then shouted “Santiago” of which we replied yes. And so she replied “that way, that way”.

      Camino provided directions too apparently.

      I walked with the pilgrim who caught me up for a while, an Irish woman from Dublin. At this point the cobbled roads were starting to hurt. And some rocky parts too were starting to really be felt by my under foot.

      Coming into a small village, I spotted a church, and veered away from Irish woman. Also wondering whether they may have a stamp, as I’m still needing my first of the day. As I turn, I spotted resting the Dutch lady who was opposite me in the hostel last night. She followed my lead when I asked if there was a stamp, and she said oh we must check.

      With that we headed in, leaving the other pilgrim to walk on ahead. There was a stamp. It was also at this point we realised we were again staying in the same place tonight so we set off together.

      I found out Rianna, is also here on a grief journey and came to be and walk with her mum, three years after her passing.

      We gained on the fellow pilgrim, who was clearly struggling. But she was adamant her town and lodgings was next.

      It was at this point I checked how far we were away. 7.5 km (another 2 hours)! Stupid tourist signboards. Trust issues ahoy now!

      And I’d booked my accommodation. So where I had hoped to walk as far as I could then book a place, that did NOT go to plan. My pace began worsening, the cobbled streets got atrociously cursed. And then to top it off, I had to walk a long bridge, but the pedestrian part was closed off so there was a makeshift scaffolding situation to walk on. That swayed!

      This time I unclimbed my bag belts from me. Can’t believe I hadn’t thought of it last time, yes I can swim, but that back pack is gonna sink a person.

      And so I trudged on. Although the last 20 mins with the help of a friend, won’t lie.

      I arrived. I checked my feet. I showered. I went out for tea with Rianna and finally sampled Portugal’s dish, Fransescina (interesting!

      How much my body can do tomorrow, is anyone’s guess. But I’m hoping it finally finds its rhythm, and this whole the first three days are the worse’s gets put behind me.

      PS - cute check in texts by Angel and Lesley

      Body check:
      O blister behind right baby toe,
      O blister forming to the side of my heel left foot.
      O Bottom of legs sunburnt (legging end and sock start)

      Little things:
      O Concrete / or mud roads
      O Showers not on a timer
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    • Anreise nach Porto

      September 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      Wir hatten heute alles dabei. Von Vorfreude bis Langeweile am Flughafen, eine abenteuerliche Landung mit nochmaligem plötzlichen Hochziehen der Maschine, Rückflug Richtung Spanien und dann doch noch Landung in Porto. Abends das leckere Essen am ersten Etappenziel gab uns das Gefühl das er nun losgeht, unseren Muschelweg.Read more

    • Day 5

      Esposende

      May 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

      Another beautiful day absent rain.
      Today was a 14.7 mile long, windy, roadside slog to Esposende.
      Roy’s face is wind/sun burned but he is in good humor.
      We haven’t found any Peregrino specific offerings. While expensive Roy has chosen his meals wisely & has enjoyed them. We are tired with aches & pains. Turning in early. Tomorrow is a longer walk.
      Hotel Del Mar.
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    • Day 61

      Esposende

      November 9, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Gestern verließen wir Pontevedra in Richtung Esposende, begleitet von einem Mix aus Nebel und Nieselregen. Die Fahrt führte mich durch eine Landschaft, die im wechselhaften Wetter fast mystisch wirkte. Links und rechts der Autobahn erstreckten sich grüne, hügelige Täler, steile Bergkämme tauchten sporadisch aus dem dichten Grau auf, während dichte Wälder im Nieselregen eine geheimnisvolle Stimmung verbreiteten.

      In Esposende angekommen, parkte ich auf dem kostenlosen Wohnmobilstellplatz der Stadt, strategisch günstig neben der Polizeistation gelegen. Die Katzen schienen das Gelände ebenfalls zu mögen, also beschloss ich, trotz des trüben Sonntagswetters – Nebel und Nieselregen bei 16 Grad – eine weitere Nacht zu bleiben.

      Die Nähe zu alltäglichen Annehmlichkeiten macht den Aufenthalt in Esposende unkompliziert und angenehm, so erledigte ich meine Einkäufe bei Aldi und dem Bäcker, beide nur 200 Meter vom Stellplatz entfernt. Danach machten Bryan und ich einen langen Spaziergang zum Strand und zurück. Esposende, eine kleine Stadt an der Nordküste Portugals ist natürlich geprägt von vielen Ferienwohnungen durch seine malerische Lage am Atlantischen Ozean. Die Stadt ist bekannt für ihre Lage an der Mündung des Flusses Cávado und die umliegenden Naturschutzgebiete, welche die Sanddünen und die Küstenheide umfassen, betont dies. die lange Promenade immer am Meer entlang bietet Ausblicke auf die rauen Wellen des Atlantiks.

      Doch der friedliche Abend nahm eine unerwartete Wendung. Um 19 Uhr, längst nach Einbruch der Dunkelheit um 17:30 Uhr, klopfte es an meine Wohnmobiltür. Ein freundlicher portugiesischer Nachbar erklärte, dass wir den Platz verlassen müssten, da am nächsten Tag, einem Montag, Markt auf dem Gelände stattfinden würde. Würden wir bleiben, würden wir einen Strafzettel erhalten. Hätte ich das nur bei Tageslicht gewusst, denn mein nächster Stopp war eigentlich rund 100 Kilometer entfernt geplant. Zögerlich entschied ich mir erst die Parkmöglichkeit am Leuchtturm anzusehen, den ich zuvor als möglichen Übernachtungsplatz ins Auge gefasst hatte. Wir entschieden uns dann dort zu übernachten, obwohl das ein normaler Parkplatz ist, waren vier weitere Wohnmobile dort. Es wurde eine unruhige Nacht, das Tosen der Brandung an der Kaimauer, und das kommen und gehen von Leuten mit ihren Autos, nahm kein Ende.

      Français:

      Hier, j'ai quitté Pontevedra en direction d'Esposende, accompagné d'un mélange de brouillard et de bruine. Le voyage m'a fait traverser un paysage qui semblait presque mystique compte tenu du temps changeant. À gauche et à droite de l'autoroute s'étendaient des vallées verdoyantes et vallonnées, des crêtes de montagnes abruptes émergeaient sporadiquement du gris dense, tandis que des forêts denses sous la bruine créaient une atmosphère mystérieuse.

      Une fois à Esposende, je me suis garé sur le parking gratuit pour camping-cars de la ville, stratégiquement situé à côté du commissariat de police. Les chats semblaient aussi aimer la région, alors j'ai décidé de rester une nuit de plus malgré le temps maussade de dimanche - brouillard et bruine à 16 degrés.

      La proximité des commodités quotidiennes rend le séjour à Esposende simple et agréable, j'ai donc fait mes courses chez Aldi et à la boulangerie, toutes deux à seulement 200 mètres du parking. Ensuite, Bryan et moi avons fait une longue marche jusqu'à la plage et retour. Esposende, une petite ville sur la côte nord du Portugal, se caractérise bien sûr par de nombreux appartements de vacances en raison de sa situation pittoresque au bord de l'océan Atlantique. La ville est connue pour sa situation à l'embouchure de la rivière Cávado et les réserves naturelles environnantes, qui comprennent les dunes de sable et les landes côtières, le soulignent. La longue promenade le long de la mer offre une vue sur les vagues agitées de l'Atlantique.

      Mais la paisible soirée a pris une tournure inattendue. À 19 heures, bien après la tombée de la nuit à 17 h 30, on a frappé à la porte de mon camping-car. Un sympathique voisin portugais nous a expliqué que nous avions dû quitter les lieux car il y avait un marché sur le site le lendemain, un lundi. Si nous restions, nous aurions un ticket. Si seulement j'avais su cela en plein jour, car mon prochain arrêt était en fait prévu à environ 100 kilomètres. Avec hésitation, j'ai d'abord décidé de regarder la place de parking du phare, que j'avais auparavant envisagée comme un lieu possible pour passer la nuit. Nous avons alors décidé d'y passer la nuit, même si c'est un parking normal, il y avait là quatre autres camping-cars. C'était une nuit agitée, il n'y avait pas de fin au rugissement des vagues sur le mur du quai et aux gens qui allaient et venaient dans leurs voitures.

      English:

      Yesterday I left Pontevedra for Esposende, accompanied by a mix of fog and drizzle. The journey took me through a landscape that seemed almost mystical in the changeable weather. Green, hilly valleys stretched out to the left and right of the motorway, steep mountain ridges sporadically emerged from the dense grey, while dense forests exuded a mysterious atmosphere in the drizzle.

      Once in Esposende, I parked in the town's free motorhome parking area, strategically located next to the police station. The cats seemed to like the area too, so I decided to stay another night despite the gloomy Sunday weather - fog and drizzle at 16 degrees.

      The proximity to everyday amenities makes staying in Esposende uncomplicated and pleasant, so I did my shopping at Aldi and the bakery, both just 200 meters from the parking area. Afterwards, Bryan and I took a long walk to the beach and back. Esposende, a small town on the north coast of Portugal, is naturally characterized by many holiday apartments due to its picturesque location on the Atlantic Ocean. The town is known for its location at the mouth of the Cávado River and the surrounding nature reserves, which include the sand dunes and the coastal heath, emphasize this. The long promenade along the sea offers views of the rough waves of the Atlantic.

      But the peaceful evening took an unexpected turn. At 7 p.m., long after dark at 5:30 p.m., there was a knock on my camper door. A friendly Portuguese neighbor explained that we had to leave the site because there would be a market on the site the next day, a Monday. If we stayed, we would get a parking ticket. If only I had known that in daylight, because my next stop was actually planned about 100 kilometers away. I hesitantly decided to first look at the parking space at the lighthouse, which I had previously considered as a possible place to stay overnight. We then decided to spend the night there, although it is a normal parking lot, there were four other camper vans there. It was a restless night, the roar of the surf on the quay wall and the coming and going of people with their cars never stopped.
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    Esposende

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