Portugalia
Fão

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    • Dzień 14

      Camino Portuguese Day 4

      25 września 2022, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      I had such a good sleep in my private room! I slept in a bit. But got on the trail by 8:00-ish.

      Last night I walked to a local restaurant for a great meal. Simple but very good. I didn’t know about vino verde until I did the tour in Porto. It is not green, but white wine. Served chilled, and very tart and refreshing. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 5

      Dinner

      3 września 2022, Portugalia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      Lovely meal tonight at recommended Tapas bar superb but huge portions . Doggie bags a must Most of the guests there tonight from Albergues in town apart from me all ladies of a certain age the craic was good Apart from 1 Bulgarian and 1 Australian lady the rest all soike German but good fun. I left early after a couple pintsI I was getting the taste for it thought maybe time to go 30+ K tomorrow. Last really long day I think 🤞Good Night All Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 2

      Tag 2 - Vila do Conde - Fão (22km)

      12 maja, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Nochdem i gester so ziemli alles falsch gmacht ha am 1.Tag (zviel gloffe, zwenig trunke&gesse, nöd ihcremt etc.), isch hüt an erfolgriche Tag gsi.

      Bi gester Obed no go froge wegere Decki zum schlofe. Die Dame ah da Rezeption het dänn aber gmeint, wenni da Überzug übercho ha, dänn hani alles 😪 Ih als sehr emotionale Mensch&völlig übermüedet sind mer dänn gad Träne ko (hahah peinlich). Reaktion vo ihre hani dänn nöd erwartet: "isch da din erste Camino? Riss di zäma, hör uf brölle und morn Morge laufsch du miteme riese Grins do use" - ok, die Antwort hani glob genau brucht! 😅 (ha übrigens dänn doch no ah Decki übercho, hend nur ah Sprochbarriere ka 😝)

      Am nögste Morge bini am 7ni losgloffe. zerst no völlig Lost, ha da Camino nochere Stund dänn aber doch no gfunde (immerhin i die richtig Richtig gloffe) 😉 Die erste 2h wieder alles da Küste entlang, recht eitönig mit da Zit 😬 Ziemli windig isches au direkt am Meer. Bi dänn drum froh gsi isch da weg nocher dur da Wald..
      Zum zmittag hets es Pilgermenü geh (günstig & riesigi Portione) und notürlich endlich mis wohlverdiente BIER 😍 Unterkunft hani dasmol vorreserviert (Hostel mit Pool). Mue das schöne Wetter no usnütze, wenns ab morn go Regne kunnt 😬

      Eigentlich hani dä Blog welle kurzhalte, isch nix druss wore
      , egal😅

      No ah paar Erkentnis zude Länder-Stereotype wo wiedermol zuetreffid:
      - Die Dütsche wo gern über Geld redet, wa d'Unterkunft kostet, wa s'esse kostet - WHO cares!
      - Franzose wo sich da Landessproch nöd düend ahpasse, mit Bonjour anstatt Bom dia grüessed
      - Amis wo der am liabsta alles verzelled

      Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 5

      Friday night- Saturday

      7 października 2022, Portugalia ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      I’ve adopted “Narrow Road” by Josh Baldwin as my theme song for this walk. Take a listen!
      Friday night- Made it to Esposende. It is a really nice resort town. The Main Street is all waterfront and park. Staying in a hotel that I at first thought was really nice. Now I think it is really nice- in an Overlook Hotel kind of way. It has lots of character as old hotels do- but there is definitely a creepy element here.
      I took kind of a circuitous route to get here. There are actually 2 different coastal Caminos. The one I thought I was on was the traditional one, but sometime today I noticed that I was no longer on that one. There was a pilgrim from Norway- Vidar. He and I had been taking turns passing each other and had stopped at the same place for lunch. Anyhoo- he saw me looking confused and told me I was on the Senda Litoral, but I should just stay on that cuz it’s the better one anyhow. Turns out Vidar had already done the Portuguese Camino both there and back. Did the traditional coastal and came back the Litoral- so he knows from whence he speaks. (He has also done the French route. Kind of an over achiever if you ask me). So I stayed on the Litoral but then started to wonder if that was gonna end up being longer so decided to cut over to catch the traditional. But that looked really far so I just consulted Google maps and went where they told me. And it ended up being a really pretty walk even though I was on it all by my lonesome.
      Met a couple of angels today, both named Maria. Neither spoke a word of English but we ended up being able to pantomime our way through. The first 2 pictures are of one of the Marias and Vidar.

      It’s Saturday and I’m about 1/2 way through the day’s walk. I started on the coast but the boardwalk had given way to sand, (no me gusta), plus it’s a hot day and no shade on the litoral. So I switched over to the coastal. So glad I switched. It’s been a beautiful walk, through some towns, some woods…. Right now I’m sitting under a tree in the courtyard of a beautiful church. Seems to be a popular pilgrim resting place. But the route has become quite hilly.
      Ya know- people are generally very kind. I stopped at a little cafe to have a cold sparkling water. The owner brought out a jar of biscuits, honey, jam and a little bowl of peanuts in the shell-(and I had just been thinking yesterday about how much I miss peanuts. It’s true what they say- the Camino does provide!). He filled up my water bottle and stamped my pilgrim passport without my even asking. I have met a couple of girls from Miami, a very nice woman (Silva) from the Czech Republic - she was traveling with a friend but the friend had gone ahead. Then another woman from the Czech Republic, Katerina, who was doing her 1st Camino and was on her own. Her son was an exchange student in Kansas last year.
      I am feeling that things I have been thinking about, reading, and listening to are beginning to synchronize.

      On the playlist today- Simon and Garfunkel. Best lyric- “I get all the news I need from the weather report”. (Only Livin’ Boy in New York).
      The church bells just rang and there appears to be some kind of mass. Time to get movin again!

      The pictures of people I meet I am including for me to remember. But there are some more scenic pictures too!

      So I was gonna end this when I left the church but then a mile down the path was this little canopy area and a guy, Albero, who had a whole little supply hut with fresh fruit, chips, beer, sparkling water- even a little espresso maker. He only asks for donations. So awesome!
      Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 6

      4.Etappe Fao-Viana do Castelo

      11 maja, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Es geht wieder los :-) ! Heute ist es noch bedeckt und angenehm kühl . Unser Bett hat die ganze Zeit gequietscht 😂🤭. Die erste längere Etappe für uns … sehr einsam heute am Meer entlang zu gehen. Frühstück nach 6,4 km 😂🙈. Wir hatten auch echt Hunger Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 7

      Auf dem Holzweg

      16 maja 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Die dritte Etappe zog sich durch idyllische Dünenlandschaften, duftende Wälder und kleine Ortschaften. Ein wunderbarer und abwechslungsreicher Tag mit 23km. Die Portugiesen sind so freundlich, den größten Teil der Strecke mit separaten Holzwegen zu versehen, damit der Pilger nicht im Straßenstaub wandern muss. Für Knochen und Laune einfach großartig. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 24

      Day 21/10 Esposende to Viana do Castelo

      24 maja 2022, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Our walk today started under cloudy skies with a slight wind and a cool 12 degrees. A fairly long 27 km journey was on the agenda along the Caminho's coastal route. Despite the coastal monicker, most of today's travels were on inland trails, with a couple of fairly long, steep stretches over difficult terrain. Other parts were through beautiful forested areas alongside a rapidly moving stream. The final couple kilometers were over a heavily trafficked bridge, high over the river where we were buffeted by extremely high winds. We all breathed a sigh of relief when we reached the north shore.

      Brenda and I stopped for coffee at the 9.15 km mark in Belinho where we rejoined Ernita (our new name for Ernie and Anita) who had taken a route that more closely followed the coast. We didn't stop again until Chafe, 19 kms into our walk. We had a very substantial lunch but were seriously overcharged for the meal we had. On the plus side, it was very delicious and filling.

      On our journey today we saw a cactus on the verge of exploding into fill bloom, a trio of crucifixes where we suspect an annual recreation may take place during the Easter season, a lemon tree laden with grapefruit-sized fruit, several lovely and/or historic churches, a shrine to the Caminho, and, at our destination, Viana do Castelo, a hilltop cathedral, a street adorned with colorful umbrellas and a statue of a monk on his ass (donkey, that is).

      We wrapped up our day with a great meal just a stones throw from our hotel.

      Tomorrow is a short 18 km walk to our next destination. Let's hope it warms up a little before we hit the road on the morning.
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    • Dzień 23

      Day 20/9 Vila do Conde to Esposende

      23 maja 2022, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      With another big walk ahead of us, we hit the road at 7:00 this morning under overcast skies and 17 degrees with a forecast of rain from 8:00 to 11:00.

      The first few kilometers of the day ran through residential neighborhoods with little excitement except for a trio of ducks waddling down the sidewalk. But, before we knew it, we were strolling oceanside along the longest boardwalk I've ever seen.

      We had planned to stop for coffee at A Ver-O-Mar, but found nothing open this Monday morning. We pushed on to the next town, Aguçadoura, located at the 10.9 km mark, and still had no luck until Brenda found a "top-rated" pastry shop 8 minutes off the Caminho trail. And that's where things got interesting.

      Yesterday, during dinner, one of Brenda's dental crowns disintegrated. We called our travel insurance provider who confirmed this was not covered by our plan, but gave us the name of a dentist in Esposende. While at the cafe in Aguçadoura, I managed to reach the dentist and, with my one month's Duolingo Portuguese training, succeeded in communicating Brenda's need for an emergency appointment that afternoon. And then the receptionist responded and totally lost me. Brenda turned to the couple seated at the table next to us and asked if they spoke English and they kindly offered to assist us. As it turned out, the woman is from Agaçadoura, but has been living in Toronto with her husband for the last eighteen years! Unfortunately, the dental office had no appointments available, but we were once again treated to the unbelievable kindness of the Portuguese people. On top of that, the pastries were outstanding.

      That little detour and chat with fellow Canadians put us far behind Anita and Ernie, but we caught up with them in Apulia at the 17.6 km mark. While we were chasing them down, the skies opened and we had our first real exposure to rain since I arrived. We walked for about ninety minutes in the rain, which was quite heavy at times. I'm pleased to report that my quick-drying clothing worked extremely well and was not even damp when we started back on the trail for the final 7 kms to Esposende.

      As luck would have it, Brenda managed to book a 4:00 dentist appointment and had a temporary crown installed on her exposed tooth.

      Tomorrow is another long day: 26.4 kms to Viana do Castelo as we get closer and closer to the Spanish border.

      They say that The Caminho will always take care of you and, with all our good fortune today, the proof was in the pudding.
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    • Dzień 4

      Arrived in Esposende

      19 marca, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Pit Pony Pilar was well excited this morning as the pain in her muscles had finally subsided. We set off a good trot, stopping for the obligatory Café con leche and custard tarts, which then spurred us into a bit of a canter along the boardwalk. Having picked up some freshly baked bread rolls, queso and schinken, we had our zweites frühstuck on the beach. Around midday, we paused again for a lunchtime Siesta (a little Inga) in the sunshine to rest our weary legs. Unfortunately, Pit Pony then went lame... she had her shoes on too tight, and her swollen trotters were so painful that she decided to walk in socks. After stepping in dog poo, I convinced her it would be a good idea to put her shoes back on. We continued at snails pace, but we got here in the end. Hat off to Pilar, she was clearly struggling for the last few furlongs, but made to the finish line. The sun always shines on the righteous, and we secured a fantastic penthouse apartment with a sunbathed terrace and views over the coastline. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 23

      Day 18 - to Esposende

      13 maja 2023, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      This was our easiest walk yet - exactly 15 miles and no hills. A bit windy near the end but not bad - and no sand storm. We really weren't even tired when finishing.

      Part of the walk was right along the beach while other parts were through towns and green spaces. We passed by a golf course that was just off the beach and saw a few football matches.

      For several hours, we were accompanied by 29 year old Oleh from the Ukraine. Oleh is living and working in Munich. He went there to complete his master's and then got a job. When the war in Ukraine started, his father lost his job. It was decided that Oleh would stay in Germany to work and help support his family in the Ukraine while his 59 year old father serves in the artillery of Ukraine's army. He can not go back to Ukraine. From this mother's perspective, it breaks my heart. He is walking the Camino looking for an emotional respite as the last year has been emotionally very difficult for him.

      We had lunch at a cafe in Fao, just a short distance before we stopped for the day. The owner was quite friendly and even provided his card with phone number in the event we needed help. Right before leaving, he decorated 2 stones as souvenirs.
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    Fão, Fao

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