Exit, pursued by a bear

May - August 2023
Biking Solo Across Canada 2023 Read more
  • 81footprints
  • 2countries
  • 99days
  • 537photos
  • 102videos
  • 11.3kkilometers
  • 4.6kkilometers
  • Day 4

    Sushi's Revenge

    May 5, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Terrible night. Freezing. Stomach cramps. 5:00 a.m. diarrhea.

    Still, at daybreak I got up, decamped, and tried to battle through it, but every mile was dizzying and nauseating sub 0°C winds and rain combined with frozen toes, fingers and face meant I kept veering into the traffic....when I wasn't taking a break to retch by the road side.

    Time to re think.

    I've arrived at Truro, just 30/60 painful miles into today's plan and sought refuge in a Comfort Inn to sleep it off.

    🤢
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  • Day 5

    Coronation station

    May 6, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    Rotund lady asked if she could share my space at the breakfast table.... plonked herself down and noticed the coronation playing on the TV...
    "Nahhh,... We're all Kings and Queens if he is" she proclaimed skeptically.
    I laughed and agreed before she recognised my accent and stated "Oh, you're English!".... followed by a helpful explanation "You're from there then"

    I nodded and smiled in agreement.

    I like Canadians.
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  • Day 5

    Mengo Camping

    May 6, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Day 3, and despite hours of sleep, litres of water/Gatorade, my stomach still wasn't right but I couldn't miss a day's progress. Onwards!

    Oh but today... today has been heavenly in comparison to yesterday's hell... I've enjoyed every hill and valley, vast rivers and amazing vistas, nevermind some blessed sunshine!

    Then what should I (unexpectedly) come across but....Mengo Campsite - a place for men to go and camp (!). Well, I always knew they'd be some bears along this trail ....
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  • Day 6

    Dogday

    May 7, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Tom and Brendan kindly invited me over for some delicious homemade chicken soup last night and we chatted about travelling and their epic journey in a 1979 RV which somehow managed to get them across Canada! Lovely guys, but I couldn't stay late....routes to prep and an early night planned.

    Had a restful night in granny's trailor, then come the morning pinched some of her porridge for breakfast (all a little "red riding hood" eh?) and headed off proudly wearing my Mengo wifebeater.

    Next stop another WS host - Brent - from Tidnish... in just another example of how crazily kind this community is, he's left his cabin open for me and told me to meet and greet the dog by name so that he trusts me, and that he be back later since he might be out kayaking or kiting(!)

    Love it!
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  • Day 7

    Traveltales

    May 8, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Brent has this lovely place with Angutie (Inuktitut for "dog") just on a mini peninsula poking out into Tidnish Bay. I think I remember Brent sounding like he was a bit of a character when I first spotted him in the WS map, and hence rerouted to visit, but I didn't imagine he'd be such a amazingly interesting guy with a trillion stories and traveltales.

    If we weren't talking fat bikes, bears, yoga, wakeboarding and foraging for fungal tincture, I was listening in awe about him building igloos, fending off polar bears, his times on the sea including crewing only the 2nd boat ever to sail, unpowered, through the Northwest Passage. Don't think Brent was showing off, he wasn't, just enjoying great stories. After some Googling just now it seems he was also part of a six-man team that made the first unsupported dog sled trip to the North Pole leading to him being awarded the Order of Canada! Wowsers

    Anguite had sacrificed his daily run for Brent's plan to take me out clam digging ! Wellied up, we waddled to the water's edge and started sprinkling little salt mounds on the razor clam holes... and within a few minutes out they popped, freshly seasoned and ready to be plucked, cooked and chowdered!

    Come the morning, more great stomach-filing calorific food and some killer coffee before we headed off for 'Guite's run, and our cycle, as they saw me off. At our parting junction we shook hands, I thanked him profusely, and said goodbye feeling oddly sad to leave....

    Next stop Moncton, and I'd had no response from my WS contact so it looks like tonight will be wild camping....but at least I've now learnt some great throaty critter-scaring noises from Brent 🐻
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  • Day 7

    So long Nova Scotia!

    May 8, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    And that was it....one province done! Ok, it is the slimmest little slip of a province, but a province none the less.

    Helllllo New Brunswick!

    Then before I knew it, 38 sun-soaked miles were done....and everything had started to get rather French 🇫🇷

    <que comedy French nasal noises />

    Then, even stranger still....a truck suddenly swerved in front of me, pulled up, and a very excited man jumped out and ran towards me shouting with a French lilt "You are cycling across Canada, no?!"

    It was impossible not to join him at this super-smiley hyperactive level of joy, and I exclaimed "Yes, yes, why!?"

    ...

    It transpired that Jean Claude had cycled across Canada a few years ago, albeit in the opposite direction, and he was overjoyed at finding someone else trying it! We chatted about kit and routes while speeding traffic dodged us; he might even have solved my Superior Thunder Bay problem (more on this another time), before he proclaimed "Here, here, take my card, ring me anytime you get stuck, anything you need, I'll come and get you, and I've got contacts all over the route so just don't hesitate!"

    As he jumped back in his van and drove off, I laughed out loud, smiling like a fool and feeling like Charlie Bucket 🎫
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  • Day 9

    Monstrous Moncton

    May 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Somehow the weather is able to drop 10° in an hour....I go from sleeveless top n shorts to 4 layers and trousers within no time, and if I'm not quick enough on the change it's bone chilling and hard to recover body temperature. So it was when I sailed into the beautiful nature reserve on the south side of Moncton and the gray clouds closed in.
    The plan was to wild camp here, well somewhere outside of the city, but I hadn't quite banked on it being just that....a city, a big gray, traffic-laiden city...the most populated in New Brunswick.
    A dark feeling had descended with the temperature. It just didn't feel right. Navigating roaring trucks and HGVs on 6 lane highways - where had my beautiful trails gone, the birdsong, the streams, the smiling waving people. I actually felt at risk. I had to get out of there. I bailed; over sidewalks, pedestrian crossings, dodging traffic and hoping there weren't any police watching, to the safely of Atlantic Motel on the outskirts of the other side of town. Time to warm up, charge up, and get a fat boy pizza delivered. #ruffinIt

    The next day was a nice fresh start. I'd dried the tent out overnight and rocked off early. A short stop in Salisbury looking for essentials and some bear spray in prep for this evening's wild camping... but no joy...every shopkeeper I asked looked at me as though I was mad - "Ain't not bears here".

    Onwards.

    I had a possible campsite in mind but its website said it was closed, still, worth a try, since I was only a little 1-man tent. When I arrived I immediately got a super warm welcome from Carrie and her husband Chris, who wouldn't let me pitch the tent and insisted I stay in one of their cabins, AND join them for supper! How could I say no?
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  • Day 9

    Breakfast treats

    May 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Stopped in Jemseg at Turners One Stop Cafe for a big fatboy breakfast - Perry and I burn some calories so I'm literally eating for two these days.

    Just finishing off my 3rd coffee (loving this free refills ethos) when the lady 2 tables away starts a conversation...

    Janet's a super-lovely yoga teacher who's done some crazy travels herself, and we chatted about how things just seem to work out if you relax and accept them with no expectations. She seemed like a firm believer that you had to learn to tune in to the signs that were presented to you along each of our journeys.

    It was a good chat.

    At the end I got up and waddled my stuffed body over to pay.

    Except that I couldn't.

    Janet had jumped up and was at the till before me, insisting that she was going to pay for my breakfast! Not for the first time on this trip I was completely bowled over. I tried to refuse. I said it was in no way necessary, but she explained by the simple phrase which is rapidly becoming the subtitle of this blog : The Kindness Of Strangers

    I'm running out of words to describe all of these experiences without sounding repetitive, or saccharined. Am I just too used to London and Londoners, or is someone looking down on me?
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  • Day 10

    Drop dead Fredericton

    May 11, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    New Brunswick's capital is beautifully set on the banks of the St John river and things were looking up for my accomodation options despite all WS hosts in the area being unavailable - I'd asked a WS contact 50 miles away for some advice and then mentioned I was struggling to find somewhere here, but she said she'd might have a friend whose garden I could camp in, but in the end, despite waiting for 4 hours for her confirmation it wasn't to be. Meh.

    Motel, local pub, fish & chips and beer.

    Next morning I stuffed my face at breakfast and half-inched enough for lunch too (some advantages to unbugeted motels). Then set off in search of bear spray once more - for some reason neither motel clerks, shopkeepers nor the public can understand my pronunciation of "bear spray" and each time I had to resort to embarassing childlike mimes, clenched teeth and growls 😬🙄. I finally found Jarred in Canadian Tires behind a caged-off area full of guns and rifles (the "Sports" section of the store). I thought I'd go in strong with "Can I buy a gun?" No point dickin around, right? If something's trying to maul you would rather squirt something at it, in the hope that you get it in the eyes, or just pull a trigger?

    Bad mistake. Que 10 minute lecture from mislocated Comic Book Guy on the rules and regulations of gun ownership in Canada, INCLUDING ALL provincial variations. If I could have reached the guns I might have just ended it all there.... Just to get him to stop. Anyway, he sold me some bear spray after I signed a massive waiver and I asked him if he'd mind being in a photo. He seemed surprised and confused at the same time but then quickly unlocked the secure area and beckoned me in for the shot so I could get the guns in the background. And there you have it folks.... If you ever want instant access to a shit load of high powered fire arms and ammunition but can't be arsed waiting for a police check and don't mind stealing, just buff Jarred's ego a little with a selfie request.
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