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- Day 27
- Saturday, March 17, 2018 at 10:28 PM
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Altitude: 27 m
ArgentinaObelisk34°36’13” S 58°22’54” W
Ciao for now

Well, last morning of the trip, the clouds are back, but I'm determined to have one more walk. I head down along Av de Mayo, to the Presidential Palace - only to realized I'd walked briefly past before. But that's okay, along the way, I poked my head in Cafe Tortoni which has been in business since the 1800s I think. The decor was vintage and I did wish I had the time to savor a coffee or something in there.
Once I reached the square, it was time to turn back the other way and head in the direction of the National Congress. As you head towards it, the last few blocks are free of buildings, covered by a mostly green lawn and garden so you can see the building on your approach. Thinking back now, perhaps I should've tried to see if I could go inside for a visit.
Turned a few more streets to head back to the hotel. Somehow I always seem to lose track of time as I walk along, but today, I had to be back on time. It's been a wonderful 4 weeks, gorgeous scenery, wonderful people, delicious food, amazing sights. That's why we travel, to experience to world. Til next time! Hopefully sooner than later ;)Read more
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- Day 26
- Friday, March 16, 2018 at 10:28 PM
- 🌙 20 °C
- Altitude: 27 m
ArgentinaObelisk34°36’13” S 58°22’54” W
Last Full Day

Talk about good timing! My temporary passport was ready to pick up this morning and then back out to explore once more. Today's my last full day in Buenos Aires (though I'm sure I will be back at some point!) I'm getting quite comfortable with the buses and metro =) By now, the security guards at the embassy also know me haha.
After picking up my passport, I head to the UN Plaza nearby to get a few photos of the Floralis Generica, a large silver tulip installation. There are a few busloads of tourists, but otherwise not crowded. Next the planetarium to check it out, except I forgot the presentation would be in Spanish. Oops, still fun though!
The mish mash of the day continued with checking things off my list before I had to go home. Popped over to the Cathedral to see where Pope Francis resided, then a long walk to the bus station to arrange my transport to EZE tomorrow. From there, a long walk through various neighborhoods to pick up chocolate and amazing ice cream from Rapa Nui. Their chocolate is from Bariloche, Argentina and came highly recommended. After sampling various flavors in my travels, I went for good old vanilla and chocolate this time. Must admit, they were divine and definitely some of the best ice cream I've ever had.
Onwards to El Ateneo (still on foot, yes I love walking!) a famous fancy bookstore that was transformed from a theatre. It's interior is so grand as the seats have been removed, replaced with rows upon rows of bookshelves. You can tell who the visitors are as everyone freezes on every level in multiple spots, snapping away. On what used to be the stage area is a cafe where you can sit down for coffee and dessert. A grand piano takes a spot in the corner, for live music sessions that I"m sure are super cool.
More wandering through the neighborhoods and various main drags, I forget their names now. Everything the architecture is simply stunning.Read more
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- Day 25
- Thursday, March 15, 2018 at 10:18 PM
- 🌙 17 °C
- Altitude: 27 m
ArgentinaObelisk34°36’13” S 58°22’54” W
Continuing Explorations

With the process of a replacement passport in process, and out of hands, it was off to continue exploring the city. I only needed to be able to check email at some point this afternoon to see if there was anything more, but other than that, my time was mine again.
Started today with a tour of the Teatro Colon, an impressive opera house, and the orchestra was in, rehearsing for tonight's performance. Towards the end of our tour, we slipped into the auditorium, into box seats and just took in the acoustics and music. Tickets for shows are normally expensive, so getting a taster of a preview made the visit extra special.
Then off to the metro to head to Barrio Chino aka Chinatown. Buenos Aires' Chinatown is actually really small, in fact only a few blocks, but it's packed with knick knack shops, restaurants and even supermarkets. It wasn't too hard to find with my trusty map app, and in fact even before I arrived, I walked through another neat neighborhood that I'd love to explore more another time. But getting back to Chinatown, you see the traditional gate and you head under.
I had originally figured I'd be in and out in about half an hour, but this trippy visit caught ahold of me as I wandered store after store, even knowing there was nothing I wanted to buy. I went on a bubble tea hunt, only to learn it was only available on weekends. I stopped by the supermarket and picked up a sushi roll, presented in a way that puzzled me into I peeled back the saran wrap to discover a Pez-like manner of eating it. I heard Chinese pop songs on the radios and even found a favorite drink in the supermarket.
An hour and a half later, back the way I came, back on the metro and off to the Rose Garden that the weather had denied me yesterday. It really is quite something to behold. The large grounds boasts a variety of roses, literally please do stop and smell the roses, as well as bridges, lakes and gazebos. Ducks and geese grace the waters and it's a popular photo spot for locals and visitors. Oh, and it's free to visit.
Continuing on foot, I make my way to the Japanese Gardens nearby. It turned out to be quite a bit of a walk, but completely worth it. Admission is inexpensive and one really finds a sense of zen inside. It's as if the busyness of the city stops at the garden's borders. I easily wandered down paths, admiring the trees and greenery, the Asian bridges and stone waterfalls. I suppose it really feels like a piece of Japan - I've never been but one day.
The gardens ready to close and I hop a bus back to the hotel for a break before venturing out tonight. I've got a ticket for Teatro Ciego - Sonada 360 tonight, a sound only theatre experience in what you could call a theatre of the blind. My local friend had helped me secure a ticket yesterday (and traveller's tip, they have advanced sales and discounted sales just like New York).
The theatre is a few stops away on the Metro and not too hard to find, though the side street it was located on was a bit dark and the theatre was a lot smaller than I imagined. For the 830pm show, there were only 9 of us. One of the reasons I picked this particular performance was because there was no dialogues, very handy for visitors who don't speak too much Spanish. The intro in the lobby was in Spanish, but we managed fine.
Heading in to the theatre was the beginning of quite the experience. I haven't been to restaurant like Dark Table (where you eat dinner in pitch black) but I'd seen the movie "When in Rome". We were led in separately, our hand on the shoulder of the person in front of us. I kid you not, it was beyond pitch black. You cannot see anything - and of course that's the point. I reach my other hand to feel for my seat and sat down. Our guide headed back for the other half of our group.
My eyes try to adjust but there's nothing to focus on. They begin to see things, imagine things, working too hard. The show starts, the music swells and sound effects plays. I try to picture what could be happening. The performance was going well until the sound cuts out. We sit still in the room, wondering what was happening, and then our guide comes back into the room with a flashlight. The illusion now broken.
Without spoiling it for you, I could see the room. I think that says it all. The power was out to the entire block and they had to cancel the rest of the shows that evening. We were offered tickets to come back, but as I was leaving in two days, and the illusion broken, I was able to offer them to my friend so she could visit for a play. I was definitely a little disappointed the show couldn't go on, but it allowed me some night photo time around the Obelisco and sights near by.Read more
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- Day 24
- Wednesday, March 14, 2018 at 10:18 PM
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 27 m
ArgentinaObelisk34°36’13” S 58°22’54” W
Back in BsAs

So about that passport hiccup, somehow rain had gotten on my passport, right on the photo page and caused it to fade, so much that I was told to go to the Canadian Embassy first thing in the morning. I guess the replacement passport needed to happen right away in BsAs instead of after I got home.
The process actually turned out relatively painless, save for the cost itself. From my hotel on Ave Corrientes, I decided to hop on the metro, little did I know the metro doesn't actually stop near the embassy - a bus or walking would've been better given that I'd even gotten off one stop too late. Nevertheless, once I got there, it was pretty straight forward. The receptionist spoke English and I didn't have to wait long to meet the Consular Assistant who went over my options, the forms with me and gave me a map of where I could take passport photos.
Between the photos and filling out the form, I spent my morning there before heading back to San Telmo to meet a friend for lunch. This time I took the bus after getting some info from locals. And then back to the hotel where I met up with another friend who lives there. Turns out she's Canadian so we headed back to the embassy before the end of day so she could sign a new form for me as my guarantor.
We had a funny moment on the bus, a story that I like to tell. My friend lives in Buenos Aires and speaks Spanish, but on the bus, she asked me if it was our stop. I looked around and my recognition memory jumped in. Yup, and we scrambled off the bus but not before she called out "Thank you" to the driver and I called out "Gracias!" Are we Canadian or what? And then language swap made us laugh so hard. I guess also it was reasonable she asked me the stop since she probably hadn't been to that location of the embassy. If someone asked me the same thing in Vancouver, I probably wouldn't know either.
Anyway, after leaving the embassy, we got back on the bus to explore the city. Initially we were going to walk through the Rose Garden and then up through Palermo. Mother Nature decided to unleash some wet weather though and we found ourselves running back to the bus stop after changing our minds. The thunder rumbled on as we strolled through the streets of Palermo Soho. Most businesses were closed, the pubs and restaurants still quiet.
We could almost tell when the storm would pick up again and found shelter under an awning of a street corner, watching the lightning, counting the seconds between the thunder and observing the rain levels growing to street flood levels. Though it didn't recede as fast as it came down, once the rain stopped, the temporary rivers of rain dropped into the drains by the curbs.
The skies would brighten up again as we wound away through the main streets, taking in the street art. Not as colorful as the ones from Valparaiso earlier this trip, but still very cool and creative. Another thunderstorm cell arrived and we sough shelter in a cafe just in time before it poured again, and then clear again. By now, the neighborhood was started to waken and become alive. Bars were filling up and hungry locals packing the restaurants.Read more
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- Day 23
- Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 10:06 PM
- 🌙 19 °C
- Altitude: 78 m
UruguayAsociacion Española Primera de Socorros Mutuos - Edificio Oscar Magurno Souto34°54’4” S 56°9’52” W
Paris with Flip Flops

We've all heard Buenos Aires is the Paris of the South, so what does that make Montevideo? Our free walking tour guide nailed it "Paris with Flip Flops". With a smaller population, Montevideo has a similar European feeling to that of Buenos Aires, but with a more casual air. Making the most of my day until my evening ferry to BsAs, I'm started out the day with a free walking tour (an activity I suggest wherever you can, and tip your guide, because it really gives you a good sense of history as well as lay of the hand).
Curioso Free Tour is the one I joined today as I arrived at the Plaza Independencia too early for the tour I planned to take, or that I thought I'd planned to take. Curioso was actually the one I'd initially found online. Our small English speaking group headed off to explore what Montevideo had to offer. The guide was relaxed and very knowledgeable as he took us to the Mausaleo de Artigos, a hero of Uruguayan independence, Teatro Solis, through the old town streets, to the port, the market, the squares, the cathedral, palaces and past several museums. We even sampled Grappa Miel, a honey spirit that I ended up coming with a bottle of. Probably the best souvenir that I could've gotten.
By the way, local tip. Some people come to Uruguay to reset their stay count for Argentina, and while you're here, you can also take out US dollars and break the bills to smaller denominations so you're not forced to exchange more than you want back in Buenos Aires.
At the end of our tour, I said goodbye to the group and headed off on my own to find lunch. I'm determined to have a chivito, aka the Uruguayan sandwich. After a bit of searching, I return back to one of the squares where I'd spotted a restaurant with it on the menu. There's another spot near the southern entrance of the Mercardo del Puerto that also looked good. Eating at the square though allowed me time to head to the cemetery to check out some of the sculptures.
Montevideo's cemetery is nowhere near as busy as La Recoleta in Buenos Aires. I much preferred this one and wish I had more time to walk around. They close at 4pm and I arrived at 345pm. Still if you plan your day well, definitely worth a visit. They also have a tour on Tuesday nights where a guide takes you around and tells you stories of some of those whose bones rest here.
The cemetery behind me, I head back to the Old Town and Palacio Taranco, which our guide had pointed out earlier. Luckily it was still open for another hour or so. The architects of this fine place also designed the Petit Palace and Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Admission is also free. I was wandering the walls when I realized this was actually one of the few places that I had previously wrote down about to visit. With all the wandering, I'd completely forgotten til then, talk about a pleasant surprise.
A bit more time in the southernmost capital of the world, I browsed through the artisan market near the port before checking in for a 2 hour ride ferry ride back to the Buenos Aires. A little immigration hiccup on the way - but more on that tomorrow.Read more
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- Day 22
- Monday, March 12, 2018 at 10:06 PM
- 🌙 16 °C
- Altitude: 95 m
UruguayEstación Tarariras Railway Station (historical)34°15’51” S 57°36’38” W
Uruguay "Weekend"

Monday and Tuesday can be a weekend, right? Got up bright and early this morning to catch a ferry to Colonia in neighboring Uruguay. When I'd first started planning this trip, I had a lot of thinking to do about how to incorporate a visit to Colonia and Montevideo since I had a couple of extra days in Argentina. Did I want to lug everything with me? Take two separate day trips? How about a loop? Which direction should the loop go? Finally I settled with a morning in Colonia, followed by a bus ride to Montevideo, spend the night, the next day and then back to Buenos Aires. It was cost effective, one ferry there, one inexpensive bus, and one ferry back. Timing-wise, it was also perfect to check out of one hotel, leave my big bag, then come back, pick it up and check into another hotel in another neighborhood.
So the ferry - due to the early hour, I hopped into a cab to get to the Buquebus terminal near Puerto Madero. Ferry tickets were easily pre-bought online, or you could buy at the terminal. The ride is only an hour, this is the shorter of the two routes, but it's really cold on board as my roommate warned me. Make sure you bring something warm.
Arriving in Colonia, it's a short walk to the Old Town where most people go. I stop to get a bus ticket for Montevideo that afternoon before setting off. I've been told the town can be seen in a few hours, and the staff in the bus station echoed this. It's a nice easy walk and the few sites are clustered together. Once you get to the old gate, this Unesco site is easy to explore and meander the morning away. Walk along the water, go pass Calle de los Suspiros. Not quite the Bridge of Sighs in Venice, but still with its own backstory like criminals being led to their deaths or sailors visiting brothels after lengths at sea. Go up the lighthouse to get a view of the town, the weather was fairly clear and you can see some of Buenos Aires skyscrapers in the distance.
From Colonia to Montevideo, it's about a 3-3.5 hour bus ride. The neat thing about this part of the travel is getting to see a little bit more of Colonia, the Uruguayan countryside and the local side to Montevideo when you get in, since you'll find yourself spending most of your time in visitor hotspots. Our arrival point in Montevideo in Tres Cruces, part mall, part bus station. It's about an hour's walk from the beaches, but the walk is pleasant.
This afternoon I'm first heading to the Montevideo sign in Pocitos. A landmark I'd debated about visiting since it seemed so far removed from everything else. I probably could've taken a local bus, but I like walking, and this way I can also check out the architecture. From here, I stroll down La Rambla towards central, making my way to Ramirez Beach (this one recommended by a friend) for sunset. I hadn't read about it previously in my research, and it's a great spot to park oneself and just let time pass and let the sun down. The beach faces the Rio Plata to the west and this was easily one of the most spectacular sunsets I've every seen.
As night drew, I continued along the Rambla to take in as much of the 22km+ route that I could, along the water. Locals were out in numbers in the summer evening, exercising, drinking mate and just hanging out. Sunlight became replaced by night light as I headed to my hotel in downtown for the hotel to wrap a relaxing but still full exploring day.Read more
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- Day 21
- Sunday, March 11, 2018 at 10:46 PM
- 🌙 19 °C
- Altitude: 27 m
ArgentinaObelisk34°36’13” S 58°22’54” W
Farewell Ushuaia, Farewell Patagonia

All good things must come to an end. Today marks the last day of this leg of the trip for me. We bid farewell to some new friends and the cold weather, returning north to bustling Buenos Aires. Goodbye penguins, goodbye glaciers, goodbye Patagonia. Til next time ;)
The warmth of the sun greeted us as landed at AEP and it was summer again. We piled back onto a van to our hotel and then almost headed out again right away. We checked out colorful streets in La Boca, and then wandered the Sunday market in San Telmo. Some of the streets were packed while others were astonishingly quiet in stark contrast.
La Boca isn't too large a neighborhood to explore. The birthplace of tango has a few streets of interest to visitors. Colorful buildings draw your attention and street air depict life scenes. We had a chance to check out one of the houses, now converted into a restaurant to see how tight quarters people were packed into to live.
Later in San Telmo, I was glad to have another chance to check out the market since I'd missed it earlier on. This old neighborhood had lots to offer this Sunday afternoon. Various artisanal and antique stalls lined the streets. Tango dancers and musicians played in a small square, while I stopped for a Dulce de Leche Frappuccino in a Starbucks located in a historic building. Several stores even offered dulce de leche tastings, of which there were many varieties. As always, don't forget to look up to see the old architecture that still remains. There's ornate decor and there's more in other BsAs neighborhoods as well.
Next Florida Street, pedestrian only and lined with shops for the shopper in you. Some were already closed because it was Sunday and the evening was drawing near. Still neat to walkabout though, and less crowded.
Tonight, I normally would've gone to the farewell dinner, but had prebooked a tango show and dinner instead. Given the choice again, I would've gone to the dinner and done the tango show another night since I would have more time in town. It would've been nice to hang out with everyone once more, but alas. We don't say goodbye, only see you later.
My roommate and I walked to the restaurant nearby. Oddly enough my prebooking had included a transfer which we found extremely hilarious since we really were going 3 blocks away. The entrance though was not quite as easy to find, as only one of the sets of doors was the actual entrance. We arrived quite early though you could arrive later as well, depending on your time. Dinner included unlimited drinks, and since I don't drink much wine, our 1 bottle to share was a bit of a challenge. Must say though, the syrah malbec was really nice and hopefully I'll be able to find something similar at home.
Food-wise, we had our choice of appetizer, main and dessert, all of which were Argentinean and delicious. I settled for another steak, but just couldn't finish it. An advantage of arriving early is not waiting too long for your food, and we had plenty of time to chill out before the tango show began.
The lights dim and you're taken through the history of tango starting back in the late 1800's and early 1900's I think, progressing through dance numbers and musical breaks up until the present. Early tango seemed more conservative with the times, and it's the later rhythms and melodies that we find familiar and associate with modern tango. The show is a wonderful note to end the tour on.
Tomorrow, I'm back on my own and off to Uruguay for 2 days before venturing back to the Argentinean capital.Read more
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- Day 20
- Saturday, March 10, 2018 at 9:52 PM
- ⛅ 7 °C
- Altitude: 69 m
ArgentinaBase Naval Ushuaia54°48’7” S 68°18’11” W
Meeting Penguins

Let's cut straight to the chase and highlight of this part of the trip. Meeting penguins. You heard right, this afternoon we're going back to Isla Martillo by way of Estancia Haberton and zodiac, to land on the island and walk amongst our new little friends. There's a few rules to keep in mind, stay on the marked paths, don't touch or engage the penguins and be quiet. The practice is for minimal impact on the penguins, after all, the Isla is their home and we're the guests, just quietly passing through. Oh, and the most important rule of all, you cannot take one of these penguins home.
We do a beach landing on the opposite side of where we were yesterday so that we would start our walk through the nesting area where burrows have been dug, and some of the penguins are changing their feathers for the season. Some of them are still patchy. Magellans are everywhere and our camera happy fingers went click click click again. Our guide explains more about the penguins, but I'm so far behind (there's also no running) yet more than content to take more photos and just watch the penguins, some of who look back at us.
On the other side of the island, we wander the beach that we couldn't step foot on yesterday. There are some gentoo penguins on this side, they're got the orange feet. And we were even in luck, the 2 king penguins from yesterday are still here. Our guide allows us to go closer, but only in a single file to take a few quick photos each. Our time on the island comes to an end much too soon. And with that, our tour as well. When we get back into town, we'll be having our pre-farewell dinner. I say pre because we leave Ushuaia in the morning along with a few friends staying behind to embark on an Antarctic adventure.
Side bar - after visiting the penguins, we would return to Haberton and visit their marine museum run by volunteer students. A very neat place to check out while you're there and learn how to differentiate the different wildlife in the area. We'd also stop by a place in the forests where the trees appear to grow sideways.Read more
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- Day 19
- Friday, March 9, 2018 at 9:52 PM
- ⛅ 6 °C
- Altitude: 69 m
ArgentinaBase Naval Ushuaia54°48’7” S 68°18’11” W
Finding Penguins

There's lots to do in and around Ushuaia, and if you plan it well, you can find yourselves with two full days. 3 even if you can. Everyone does the Beagle Channel Cruise, but other options include hiking in Tierra del Fuego National Park, glacier hiking, horseback riding, canoeing and more. Our group did a bit of a scatter, but this afternoon we were all on our included Beagle Channel Cruise.
A bit of a lazy morning, in hindsight, I wish we'd gotten up early and checked out the national park. There's a number of trails, though the bus only runs at certain times and we didn't want to risk missing the cruise later. So, around town we wandered. Heading out along the water, then back to the main drag. In and out of tourist shops from one end to the other. The weather held out beautifully, the weather gods returned and smiled upon us. The winds were still strong though and you'd be advised to have the thermals handy.
There's two tourist shops of note to check out. Both are on the main street, and you'll notice the first right away with prisoner figures all about it. Ushuaia, like Australia, was built by prisoners, the former from Spain. In the back of the first shop "La Ultima Bita", you'll find a large backyard display of prisoners of the past engaged in mining activities while authorities looked on and supervised. The second shop is on a corner a few blocks down on the opposite side of the street. I think they might be sister shops. The draw to this storefront is that they have rubber Ushuaia stamps you can mark your postcards with. Of course, we only stumbled upon this after we'd mailed our postcards.
Speaking of postcards, the post office charges an arm and a leg for stamps, check out some of the local shops for stamps instead. That said, as far as I know, none of my postcards have arrived yet and we're coming up on a month. Not worried yet as it took 5 months for a postcard to arrive from Petra, Jordan.
And speaking of stamps, don't forget to get your passport stamped with the "Gateway to Antarctica" stamp. There's another one for those who actually go to Antarctica, no cheating! So I am returning one day =) By the way, to tide your penguin needs til need, there's lots of penguin things to buy, you might find yourself going home with one, or two, or three, or who's counting anyway?
Back to our day, we headed down to the docks to board our boat to cruise through the Beagle Channel. It's about a 6 hour round trip and though picturesque, you may want to bring a book or cards, especially since we return in the night. And yes, it does get dark in March. The sail is a smooth one, grab a seat indoors but you'll find yourself outside for a good duration. We get some shore watching time, looking back at the city, pretty as it rests, nestled in front of mountains still capped with snow.
We pass by a Chilean town on our way south, but it's population still hasn't reached that of a city yet, so Ushuaia retains its title of southernmost city for now. We pass a sunken boat with history that I can't remember. Then sealions and birds that look like penguins. And a lighthouse. Finally we reach Isla Martillo.
Most of our small group braved the waves splashing up the front of the front of the boat, staking out a good photo spot for when we'd reach the island. It was windy, it was wet (and admittedly I stayed in a doorway til we were almost there). The boat slows as it approaches and dare I count hundreds of cute Magellanic penguins appeared before us. We were limited in our movements, but we made up for it in excitement and camera zooms and hundreds of photos.
Among the Magellanic penguins were a few gentoo penguins as well and two king penguins, a rarity who we learned might be scouting for a home for their own colony. We lingered and lingered until the boat slowly pulled away again, returning the way we came. So many photos...so many penguins...must get more...Read more
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- Day 18
- Thursday, March 8, 2018 at 10:04 PM
- ⛅ 6 °C
- Altitude: 69 m
ArgentinaBase Naval Ushuaia54°48’7” S 68°18’11” W
Here at the End of the Earth

Today we embarked on a 12 hour journey to Ushuaia, the world's southernmost city and some would say to the End of the Earth. Well, if we're lucky, it's 12 hours and if not, well, it could be 20. It all depends on the weather at the Magellan Straight where a ferry would take us across. Luckily for us, the waters were fine to cross, but it was still super windy.
We disembarked before the bus drove onto the ferry and then walked on. You can either sit inside or hang out above deck. The weather was nice, and a more adventurous option that also held photographic opportunities.
Back on land, the drive was long, but picturesque. I wish I could've stayed awake the whole time. The landscape continued to be its gorgeous self, and here and there, we could spot wildlife watching us pass by. Our bus eventually rolled into a town where we'd transfer onto minivans to continue the journey south.
But before we could, procedure had all our bags lined up next to the bus, ready to be inspected by customs and their canine colleagues to ensure we weren't bringing anything that would be detrimental to the national parks. It was an interesting exam to observe, but no excitement today.
Our group snagged a minivan all to ourselves, which was nice. We even made stops for miel de lunas and churros at a well known bakery. This plus our snacks tided us over on our journey. As we approached Ushuaia, there were more and more trees covering the mountains, I almost felt like we were looking at the Rockies back home. The beauty of the region is something that never ceased to amaze us.
At the end of the 12 hours, we were there. Ushuaia. A place we'd only previously read about, heard about, dreamed about. It almost felt unreal. Given the later hour, we'll just settle in tonight with a great steak dinner. Tomorrow, we resume our exploration and be on the outlook for penguins.Read more
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- Day 17
- Wednesday, March 7, 2018 at 6:44 PM
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 10 m
ChilePunta Arenas53°9’50” S 70°55’1” W
Continuing South - Punta Arenas

We rested our weary selves on a 3 hour bus ride today to Punta Arenas. We're still in Chile, but getting even closer to the End of the Earth. I like to think of this day as a pit stop to break up a long land journey to Ushuaia and a pit stop to acclimatize ourselves for the colder temperatures ahead. Though we arrived in the afternoon, the cold and fatigue was already getting to us after the late lunch.
After a quick orientation walk of key landmarks, the supermarket and a sandwich shop to prepare for tomorrow's long travel day, we scattered over this small city and various directions. There are a few things to do here, but the easiest was simply to wander. Wander the shops - there's some good souvenirs to be bought at really prices. A silver Patagonia mug for $2? Yup. Inexpensive penguin keychains? Yup. And even plush penguins.
We found Cafe Monct with its delicious cakes and laidback local atmosphere for dinner. You shouldn't be surprised by now. Dessert makes a great small meal after a late lunch, because for some reason, my stomach still hasn't gotten used to Argentinian meal times yet.
As the hour grew late and the skies started to darken, we made a quick stop for warmer clothes before heading up to a viewpoint near the hotel. A very pretty spot where you can see right down to the water, and the city lights slowly flicker on. There's another spot nearby as well.It's not as picturesque but you get to see another side of the city, mostly residential.Read more
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- Day 16
- Tuesday, March 6, 2018 at 6:44 PM
- ⛅ 28 °C
- Altitude: 1,429 m
ChileTorres del Paine50°56’32” S 73°24’24” W
Torres del Paine - Day 3 - Las Torres

Today was what we were most looking forward to - hiking to Las Torres. It would be tough, it would be challenging but it was going to be oh so worth it. Our eagerness topped up energy levels and we were super excited to waken to a beautiful sunrise where the sun turned the Torres peaks orange. The weather the previous night had included a bit of rain again I think, it had certainly been windy as well, but hey, this is Patagonia, of course, there would be lots of wind.
We bid farewell to camp and drove back into the park, getting dropped off at the visitors centre for our hike. Once again, the first part is easy, though a bit long as we had to trek a bit in to get to the bottom of the hill. Our group pace spread out a bit, me of course in the back. It seems no matter how fast I try to go, there really is no making up ground when you need 3 steps to match the 2 steps of those with longer legs. Nevertheless, you've heard me and everyone say before, it's no race. But that's okay, we'll all get there.
Fortunately the trail bridges were on my side. The first part I fell behind, we caught up at the bridges where there could only be 2 people on the bridge. But of course, once we hit the rocky trail and started to climb, the ascending took its toll. And then the rain drops began to fall. Out came the rain jackets quickly and the we continued on. At the time we figured the clouds would pass soon enough, but whatever luck weather luck we had, had clearly run out.
It rained steadily as we cleared the rocky trail stage, rained as we trudged through the forest, and still pounded down as we climbed large rocks on the final ascent. As I managed to climb rock after rock, I had to wonder how in the world I was going to make it back. Downhill is usually better for me, but the height of these rocks had me wondering. Nevertheless, I came here to hike and there was really only one way to go.
With the encouragement and patience with our local guide at the back, I slowly but surely eventually made it to the top, to the base of Las Torres where what awaited was not the clear views of everywhere else we'd ended up but a cloudy and rainy view. Our group mostly huddled under some large rocks trying to stay as dry as possible as we munched on our lunch.
We snapped our token photos, braved it out as long as we could and then started to head back. Seems everyone had the same idea as it became one steady trail of hikers headed down. The rain continued and the path grew muddier. The creeks and streams were fuller and nobody tried to pass each other for the longest time. We all knew the importance of being steady.
I found myself at the beginning of our group for awhile on the first steep section down. Aided by the fact that I could only go as fast as the person in front of me, I simply followed their footsteps, down that very path of rocks that I had no idea how I'd climb down. One foot in front of the other, poles out and I actually only partially slipped once. We were soaked straight to the bones and I didn't care about puddles or splashing through the rivets of water that grew along the trail. I think Mother Nature just wiped the term "waterproof" from the dictionary. And in my mind, I just wanted to get back to the visitors centre and into dry clothes, and get warm.
On and on, skipping breaks, I kept moving forward. Everyone would eventually pass me, but that was okay. It was only the last section before the long walk back to the visitor centre where I would see the final backs. It was the muddiest on that part and definitely the slowest going. It's funny, at home, we would never have gone hiking in these conditions, but all bets are off when we're off on an adventure. And what an adventure it was. I don't know if I'd do this again, but I'd like to think I would if the weather worked out.
The rains did let up near the latter half of the descent, but of course, it came once more as I was in the home stretch. Oh well, what can one do?
Back to Puerto Natales for the night, return our gear, and try to dry our gear (believe me this last part wasn't that successful) but alas, we must move on, and perhaps dry everything on our next stop. At least the rain didn't follow us and we ended up with a very pretty sunset to wrap up the day. The weather just has a mind of its own.Read more
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- Day 15
- Monday, March 5, 2018 at 6:44 PM
- 🌙 28 °C
- Altitude: 1,429 m
ChileTorres del Paine50°56’32” S 73°24’24” W
Torres Del Paine - Day 2 - French Valley

Last night we were given a decision to make: trek the 20 km regular route to the French Valley or continue farther and do 27km. For me, it was a no brainer - the shorter one of course! Not because I'm not enjoying the hiking, we have seen some fantastic views of epic beauty, but more because I know I'm slower, I have short legs and we have a ferry to catch this evening. In the end 3 of us (the quickest) headed further, and the rest of us did the regular route.
Though it seemed to have rained a bit the night before, we awoke to a nice morning to some clear skies. Crawling out of the tent, we were greeted by the gentle light on the mountains opposite. After packing, breakfast, and stashing our bags, we headed off.
The first part of the hike was easygoing, we traversed Patagonian flat terrains, following trails laid along gentle hills. I almost felt like a hobbit, lost in the landscape around us. There's not too many people, the quiet was broken only by the sounds of our footsteps. It was a pretty good pace as well and I even managed to stick close to the group for a good duration. Did I mention flat ground and Patagonia flats are my favorite?
I did have one little mishap though, it was either a loose rock or maybe I tripped over my own feet, but almost did a face plant on a downward part. Luckily I got a hand down in time, so it was just a bit of an awkward landing and I needed to sort myself out before I could accept some help getting up. No harm done (except scrapes and bruises discovered later) and I was soon able to walk it off like I usually do.
Throughout the hike, we continued to cross rushing streams and rivers, over bridges and stopped at a few lookouts, like one over a lake. We paused there for some time, admiring how the power of the winds stirred the waters, created a nature show. We went through forests, then saw avalanches tumbling down close to a glacier. The latter part of the trail was steeper, but of course, it's only natural. All in all another great day of hiking.
The way back, we had free reign and free pace to get back to the refugio. It was nice to be rushed and we all had time to relax before hopping back on the ferry where our van awaited to transport us to a private camp for the night. The camp itself is situated just outside of the national park grounds, but had a gorgeous view of the Torres in the distance. Our tents were lined up neatly in a row and the shower facilities were greatly welcomed to refresh ourselves. Some of us even found energy to kick a soccer ball around.
The dinner building was interestingly shaped like a triangle as we arranged ourselves on the 3 sides of the table. There was a communal feeling in the air as we'd need to help each other and pass food and everything else around. It's too far to reach across the table, but it was alright, as it kind of felt like we were one big family.
Tomorrow we take on Las Torres themselves, here's hoping we saved energy for that (and yes, we did).Read more
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- Day 14
- Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 8:56 PM
- ⛅ 33 °C
- Altitude: 1,429 m
ChileTorres del Paine50°56’32” S 73°24’24” W
Torres del Paine - Day 1 - Grey

From our hotel, we drove to the national park and boarded a ferry that would take us to tonight's camp at Paine Grande. Just a few minutes into the ride on Lake Pehoe, there's a nice waterfall that lands into the beautiful blue green waters. Temperature aside, it reminded me a bit of the Mediterranean Sea.
The ride isn't long, but it was windy up top where we sat enjoying the scenery. I think there may have been a few raindrops, but can't really remember. Views of the landscape pretty much takes over the memory bank. At the camp, we quickly drop our bags off in our tents (already set up), some have a quick lunch and off we went.
The trail up to Grey Lake isn't too strenuous but the winds sustained when you're on the section of exposed rock adds some challenge. At one point, I had to drop and just hug a rock. The gusts were so strong you almost feel like you could be blown off the mountain. Like all of Patagonia though, the sight before you makes it all worth it.
At the lake, we snap our photos, trying to keep our cameras steady in the wind, trying not to fall off the edge. We share a small bottle of wine and wild berries. Life is simple and that's just fine. Going back to nature, we can forget about our day to day life for a bit and just enjoy the moment. It was extra nice not having to rush back as we would've had to do if this was day 3 and we needed to take the ferry back.
Back at camp later, the site has a mini market and full cafeteria as well as a bar where you can enjoy a drink before grabbing dinner. It was still some time til sunset, more time for photos as we gazed at the mountains from our tent - stunning. That night, the skies weren't as optimal for stargazing as the Atacama was, so I'm glad I did that earlier on. Clouds were rolling in and we hope they don't hold any precipitation.Read more
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- Day 13
- Saturday, March 3, 2018 at 8:56 PM
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 19 m
ChilePuerto Natales51°43’51” S 72°29’52” W
Crossing Borders - Back to Chile

Bit of a travel day as we ready ourselves for a 3 day hike in Torres del Paine. A quick taxi ride to the bus station and off we went. Not only was it a smooth ride on a comfy public bus, it was also just a short wait at the border, getting stamped out of Argentina and into Chile.
When we pulled into Puerto Natales, it was still early afternoon where we could grab a quick lunch, rent any gear we needed for the next three days and just wander around. Our hotel was located right by the water and we lucked out in getting a room with a view.
My roommate and I found a nice little Chilean place (on a local's recommendation) and had some delicious Chilean soups packed full of seafood for a late lunch. Next order of business, finding hiking poles (there's more rental shops here than El Chalten). We'd had a few places recommended to us, and I decided to get them at a place on the square since it was close to the hotel and easy to find. Back to the hotel we went to meet our local guides who'd be hiking with us the next 3 days to explain the plan and answer any questions.
Contrary to our itinerary, we'd be doing the trek backwards as there was another group. Here's how it would now go: Day 1 - Grey Lake/Glacier, Day 2 - French Valley, Day 3 - Las Torres. This they call the mini W as we'd be doing most but not all of the W trek. We tried to negotiate back to the original plan due to a 90% chance of rain on day 3, but no luck. Oh well. Day 1 would be the short hike then and we work our way up. Poles are recommended and like El Chalten, the stream water is wonderful to drink and fill up your water bottle.
Dinner turned out to be artisanal hot chocolate at Chocolateria Patagonia Dulce. They also had amazing looking desserts, had we known, we definitely would've left room. The place was really busy so we just got them to go and headed out to check out some of the shops.Read more
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- Day 12
- Friday, March 2, 2018 at 9:41 PM
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 201 m
ArgentinaEl Calafate50°20’17” S 72°15’53” W
Perito Moreno - the advancing glacier

Today is glacier day, we're visiting Perito Moreno, one of three advancing glaciers in the world. It's about a one hour drive, but we also stopped for photos of birds and wildlife. A local guide leads the way and cues the Star Wars theme as we round the bend and get our first glimpse of the 8th natural wonder of the world. Though the sun wasn't fully out, we could appreciate the majesty ahead. As the day went along, we would get more than just sun and ice glistening though, rainbows would be a constant companion as well.
The glacier we're told is about the size of Buenos Aires, extending far beyond what we can see as we safely stand on the opposite shore where several well constructed walkways serve as paths for visitors, with one taking you past the north part and another to the south. Don't be discouraged by the long walking times on the boards, they're tourist times ie how long it should take when we're stopping constantly for photos, and stop we did.
Because we were all taking the boat ride on the southern part, it made sense to wind our way along the north part. Either way, we will see it all. We began to spread out along the walk, everyone taking their own pace and time for photos, moving along when we were ready. You can't really get lost here, well except maybe your thoughts will as you survey the ice and blues, scanning the icy architecture for signs of a soon to be calving. We did see a few chunks break off, but not the ice bridge that juts out and actually touches the opposite shore of the lake. (A week or so after we left, it would collapse though).
There's lots of good vantage points for photos and just stops to take it all in. Bring your lunch to eat on way, there's some benches to have your lunch with a view. The scenery definitely reminds me of Glacier Bay in Alaska, but with less tourists on our boat ride. The captain gives us a very good amount of time to soak in the glacier, and from both sides. Most people snap away in the beginning and then huddle downstairs to keep warm, but a few of us brave the elements and stay above deck for the whole duration. Once I had my fill of photos, it was nice to just sit on a bench until the boat pulled away back to shore.
Returning to El Calafate, there were a few options such as birdwatching at Laguna Nimez. Factoring in energy level and laundry pickup time though, we decided to explore the town instead and do some shopping. If you're a jewelry fan, lapiz lazuli is the semi-precious stone to pick up. There's a nice jewelry store on the main street, though if you happen to be going to Santiago, there's better choices and better prices. Other popular local items would be Calafate berry liqueur or jam, and then there's dulce de leche liqueur. Mate cups and teas can also be found.
Tried guanaco stew for dinner at La Zaina, adding to my list of new foods tried. Food was nice and yummy, not too gamey if memory serves correct, while the restaurant itself was quite rustic and welcoming. Yeti Ice Bar was next, a very cool place. They give you a poncho-like top, mitts and crampons so you don't slip on the ice. Very handy if you have moments of being in klutz, unfortunately it doesn't really save you from walking into the igloo though, oops. Sometimes when you're short, you forget to look out for objects that are lower than they seem.
My head hurt and there was a large lump, but nothing some alcohol and a large chunk of ice can't fix. Good photo ops inside too, there was a little cave like area which reminded me almost like the Santa photo booths at the malls around Christmas, the aforementioned igloo, the bar itself and a big sled as well. Just remember to use the flash. Oh, we also had fernet branca shots. Honestly? Not a fan, very herbally and bitter, though it's supposed to taste better mixed with coke. I'll stick to the bols chocolate and the dulce de leche muchas gracias.Read more
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- Day 11
- Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 9:41 PM
- ⛅ 27 °C
- Altitude: 399 m
ArgentinaEl Chaltén49°19’53” S 72°53’11” W
The Day After Fitz Roy

A bit of a leisurely morning as we had most of the day free before driving to El Calafate. We pretty much all decided to take advantage of the area and do more hiking, though we were a bit tired. A few of the girls trekked out to Cerro Torre while most of us headed off on easier trails to miradors just outside town with the hope of seeing condors. It was a bit blustery as the Patagonian winds announced their arrival, but we'd experienced a bit of it already. Just hunker down and make yourself small to avoid getting blown off the mountain. This tip would most definitely come in handy later on in the trip.
Unfortunately condors we didn't see, but it was still a nice hike, weather was good and we also went to a point where we could see Lago Viedma. In hindsight I would've liked to have gone to Cerro Torre especially seeing photos after, but knowing my pace, I didn't want to miss the bus or have everybody wait. It was probably doable, but as I sometimes like to do, it gives me something to come back for one day.
Returning to the town, it was a bit of an adventure finding a place for lunch. My roommate and I wanted to try out the spa, so we found a place nearby, not great, but did the job. The spa itself was alright, I was only able to get a cold gel treatment for my sore muscles as they only had one masseuse and the timing didn't work out. It was really cold, but did soothe for a few hours. Once it wore off though, I still felt the remnants of yesterday's hiking, comes with the experience haha.
~~~Off to El Calafate, we took the same ride as the other day, except waiting for us on the other end was a quaint town not an airport. We even saw icebergs in the lake on the way. Because of the late lunch, I wasn't super hungry, so after a quick orientation walk, we checked out the supermarket to get lunch for tomorrow and some souvenir shops, before picking up ice cream for dinner. It's been a bit of a habit on this trip, ice cream for dinner, but why not? Or as they would say "por que no?"Read more
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- Day 10
- Wednesday, February 28, 2018 at 9:41 PM
- ☀️ 35 °C
- Altitude: 399 m
ArgentinaEl Chaltén49°19’53” S 72°53’11” W
Climbing Mountains

Luck was on our side today as we awoke to blue skies for our 1st hike of the trip. We are headed to Laguna de los Tres for an up close visit with Fitz Roy. The original itinerary had us hiking out of town and back on a round trip route, but we opted to get a van instead to take us to another starting point around the other side so that we could explore more of the area (and avoid the uphill section right off the top).
This made the first part of the trek easier as we followed a trail through the forest. Our guide stopped periodically to explain some of the plants and trees that we saw. The river and creek waters were so clear, perfect for refilling our water bottles. The entire hike was simply beautiful as the mountains waited in the near distance.
The last section about to the lagoons is fairly steep, as mentioned by previous hikers. It's important to remember it's not a race because we're all going to get there. Me? I knew it would take some time to get there. I'd been going to the gym regularly the last months to prepare for this hike, but there's also the short legs factor =) Seems for every 2 steps others take, I need 3. Oh well, steady as she goes right?
There's a feeling of exhilaration reaching the top and seeing the stunning blue green waters lying in front of a clear Fitz Roy peak. There aren't really words quite to describe the beauty before my eyes. After checking with one of the guides, I knew I had enough time to get to the water's edge and take a few photos. It's lunchtime, but food is the farthest thing from my mind. Some of the others had gone on further to another lagoon, but me, I'm happy right where I am.
A half hour after I arrived, it was time to start heading back. Down the steep part we went, and then taking a different trail (the original one we would've taken) to town. Along the way, we would stop at Laguna Capri, another beautiful lake, with waters looking more natural. It almost feels like home.
The Patagonian weather is always subject to change, and clouds were starting to roll is as we left Fitz Roy behind us. A few hikers were still headed in, and we could feel the odd rain drop. The precipitation would hold though as we got back in good time and enjoyed post hike drinks.Read more
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, February 27, 2018 at 10:15 PM
- ☀️ 7 °C
- Altitude: 399 m
ArgentinaEl Chaltén49°19’53” S 72°53’11” W
Journey to the End of the Earth

So it begins, we grab our bags and head to AEP for our domestic flight to El Calafate, where we'll then catch a private transfer to the town of El Chalten, our home for the next 2 nights. What I really like about AEP is its location right on the bank of the Rio de la Plata. Definitely getting a bit of a European feel here and loving the view.
Our check in was a bit eventful as a number of airport employees were gathered for a manifest (not a protest) about wages and other terms. It was an interesting situation to witness and reminded me of the teachers' strike last year in Peru, though this time there was drums and chanting. It was all peaceful though and we were able to check in and board on time.
Stepping out of El Calafate airport, we truly had left the summertime temperatures behind for the next two weeks. The Patagonia winds were blowing, but not much. It would be a 3 hour drive with a rest break in the middle. I used to be able to stay awake for entire drives, but the last few years I've struggled to, and this was a drive I really wanted to stay awake for as the Patagonian landscape rolled out next to us. Small hills, plains, lakes, it really is very beautiful scenery.
The second half of the drive was especially mesmerizing as Fitz Roy and its surrounding mountains was straight ahead, like a beacon calling to us. We took numerous photos of it, taking turns standing at the front of our moving van. We would have photo stops, but sometimes you can't just wait you know?
Once in town, we dropped off our bags at the hotel and headed out to make preparations for the next day's hike to Fitz Roy, renting poles, ordering box lunches and then dinner. Tomorrow, we trek!Read more
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- Day 8
- Monday, February 26, 2018 at 10:15 PM
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 27 m
ArgentinaObelisk34°36’13” S 58°22’54” W
City Exploration: Intro to Buenos Aires

One of my favourite things to do when exploring a new big city is simply just to head out on the streets, wander and follow my feet. In the Paris of the South, or the city of Good Air, that's exactly what I set out to do on my free day before the tour. Of course, one day is nowhere near enough time for this amazing city, but I'll be back in 2 weeks to check it out some more.
After a good night's sleep, I head out to join a free walking tour through Buenos Aires free walks. You'll find a number of major cities now offer this type of tour (and you'll remember I did one in Santiago as well), where enthusiastic guides take you around the city and share with you stories of history and culture. They work on a tip based, so please do leave them a tip, a good one, they more than earn it.
Our group was really big, though the one I did in Tallinn a few years ago is still the record, but we managed to stay together on our 3.5-4h walk through the neighborhood of Recoleta. Starting in the square behind the Teatro Colon, we would wind our way through the streets, crossing Ave 9 de Julio, passing churches, fancy neighbourhoods, Plaza San Martin (where we learned the history behind the Falklands or as the locals refer to as Malvinas). We saw the Big Ben of South America, marvelled at palaces and period skyscrapers, and entered the famous Recoleta cemetery where our tour ended.
They have a separate paid tour for the cemetery (only $10) but they point out Eva Peron's family crypt for those short on time. If you do have extra time, it's well worth it to wander the cemetery, checking out different crypts and sculptures. This supposedly is the most expensive real estate in the city by square footage, and many families have occupied the area going generations back.
It's about 2pm now, and I have 4 hours before I need to be back at the hotel to meet my fellow tourmates for the next two weeks. I haven't gotten a SUBE card yet (this is BsAs's public transport card for buses and the metro), but I do have a handy dandy app called maps.me . Getting back wasn't going to be a problem at all. Leaving the cemetery, I backtrack a bit and walk back through parts of Retiro towards the water. Some of the streets are familiar as we were just there a few hours above. My destination for the afternoon? The neighborhood of Puerto Madero.
Puerto Madero was the docklands of Buenos Aires but has been reclaimed and redeveloped into a modern and fairly hip neighborhood. It kind of me reminds of parts of our waterfront neighborhoods at home. Shops, restaurants and apartments line the canal, and the famous Woman's Bridge commands one's attention in the near distance.
Before reaching the southern edge of the neighborhood though, it would be a right turn to head back to San Telmo where the hotel is located. San Telmo is one of the older neighborhoods, and the architecture is stunning, not quite as fancy as those in Recoleta, but as a friend of mine told me, don't forget to look up. You won't be disappointed as your jaw just drops. If I could, I would take photos of almost every single building. But then again, there's something about just appreciating what's there instead of getting distracted with the lens.
That evening, I met the 16 people I'd be spending the next 2 weeks with, trekking through Patagonia. We're a good, though usual, mix of Canadians and Americans primarily, but also Swiss and British. Instead of the usual welcome dinner, our guide took us to the La Bomba show, giving us a taste of local life.
Off we went on the metro, it's very easy to navigate if you know where you're going and it gets your farther in this vast city. La Bomba is a group of drummers that gets your adrenaline pumping and your body jumping. They were exciting to watch and a great ice breaker as well. After the show, other locals had their own drums and folks kept moving on to after parties. Us? Well, we have a flight in the morning to head south as we embark on a journey to the End of the Earth.Read more
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- Day 7
- Sunday, February 25, 2018 at 11:24 AM
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Altitude: 27 m
ArgentinaObelisk34°36’13” S 58°22’54” W
All in Day's Travel: Calama>Santiago>BA

First off, writer's note: The shorthand for Buenos Aires is BsAs. I've been referring to it as BA in my planning, and I now know better. Unfortunately, I'm limited by the number of characters in the footprint title above, so BA once more it shall be.
When I left the hotel in the Calama this morning, I didn't quite realize the surprises that would spring up today. If all went well, I would've arrived in Buenos Aires around 3pm, but you're probably getting the feeling that I didn't. And you'd be right. At the Calama airport, I looked on the departures board and my flight was not listed. Uh oh.
There's only one airport in town, and being 630am, nobody was at the counters. The information lady wasn't helpful at all. Only a sprinkle of travellers were around, and fortunately there was a very nice couple who tried to help me out. The short story at this stage is that my flight had been cancelled but no one told me. This was not good as I needed to get to Santiago to make a connection to Buenos Aires. So started a few phone calls to the company I'd booked my flight through. When someone did finally arrive at the check in counter, they confirmed I was rebooked onto the 1030am flight and arrive at 1230pm. Bad news - my connection leaves at 1pm. My itinerary said I needed to pick up my bag and recheck in, even though it was a domestic flight with the same airline. Chalk it up to one booking through a third party, but two separate tickets instead of one.
Another phone call to the company, and I'll tell you who they are. Not out of complaint exactly, but more of a good tip actually since things didn't turn out as bad as they seem. You see, like many these days, I booked this flight online, on kiwi.com. I think they're based out of Montreal, and it was a good thing I did, because they guarantee their bookings and getting you to your final destination. I was unable to book the exact itinerary directly on Sky Airline's website (they sell it as two separate tickets), but I could with Kiwi which was great. And being one booking, I was able to get in touch with them to sort things out with the change in flights.
At this time, there was nothing we could do until I got to Santiago airport. Fair enough, they weren't ready to take care of the connecting flight just in case another delay or something came up. Off to Santiago I went - and after 4 days in a small town, the hustle and bustle of the terminal felt like the entire town and more was stuffed into one building. Back on my phone, it was another call to Kiwi and then the waiting game. When would I get into Buenos Aires? No idea, but I trusted I would get there.
A few hours later, they presented me with an option: a 7am flight the next morning plus they would cover that night's hotel and meals. Unfortunately I had my hotel booked (and paid for) in Buenos Aires, so they refunded the portion of the connecting flight which I missed (yup, refunded) and I headed to the Aerolineas Argentinas counter for another first - buying a ticket at the latest minute and at the airport. Yikes. (By the way, I did check with the insurance company while at the airport, so the difference in the price of the ticket should be covered - never forget to buy travel insurance, this is one of those times you'll need it).
I guess not a lot of people buy tickets at the airport anymore, it took awhile for them to issue it, and there were questions, rightfully so. Reciprocity fees (though that changed Jan 1), making sure I had a ticket out of Argentina etc. But I made it, good flight and you get a sandwich.
At the end of the day, what should have been a 6 hour travel day turned into 15 when I finally landed at EZE. By the way, if you go there, you can easily and economically take a bus transfer through Tienda Leon at Terminal B. They'll take you to their bus terminal and then transfer you into cars to drop you right off at your hotel. Lost a few exploration hours today, but tomorrow, I'll hit the ground bright and early.Read more
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- Day 6
- Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 11:24 AM
- ⛅ 0 °C
- Altitude: 2,436 m
ChileSan Pedro de Atacama22°54’31” S 68°11’59” W
Salar de Tara and Farewell Atacama

It's my last day in the Atacama, and I have a feeling this part of the trip will end on a high. I get to sleep in a little which is going to help in this full day which includes saying goodbye to the desert as I ready for the next leg of this adventure.
The Salar de Tara is another salt flat nearby, though this time, close to the Bolivian border (depending on your guide, you might even get a bonus stop). This day tour was definitely one of the ones I was really looking forward to. Not everyone goes and I guess I've developed a taste for going off road. And off road we went, in a older van. It only got stuck once (after breakfast). We were really lucky to have Alexander as our guide - and as our driver and chef as well. Where we're going, there's really not much in terms of facilities.
If you normally like to drive, I would suggest maybe this is one to let a local guide drive. There are roads and no roads where we would go, pulling off at unmarked spots along the highway. He just knew where. The ride got bumpy at times, but it's part of the adventure. Funny I would remember very little about the names of places where we went, I think the stunning scenery just turns our minds onto visuals only. Of course, we can always google afterwards, so here's one name for a place we stopped at: Monjes de la Pacana - rock formations in the middle of desert. There's a number of viewing spots you need to hit up to fully appreciate the landscape, we would climb up dunes (a beat of a feat considering it's another day of altitude) and then face the flats head on. I can't even begin to describe the vastness and majesty of the landscape before us so I'll let the photos speak for the places.
We also saw more guanacos and flamingos, which felt more exciting than yesterday - I think it's part of the excitement for today. Our guide also let us across a small marsh for yet another viewpoint where we didn't see any other group. It's a bit off the road where he even told us a bit more about the rocks and helped us each pick an obsidian rock as a souvenir though I know we probably shouldn't - take nothing and leave nothing but footprints.
This was one tour I kind of didn't want to end, and moreso than yesterday, this geography did not only take my breath away, it blew me away. I cannot recommend coming here enough, you have to do this. The panoramas can only give you a hint at what you would experience in person.
Back in San Pedro later, I'd pick up my backpack and say goodbye to our sweet hostal owner. We only had short conversations in bits of Spanish, and between the "I'll be back really late because I'm stargazing" and "Can I leave my bag til evening because I'm visiting the Salar de Tara", we managed and got along well.
The bus station is a short walk through the town and I get there in plenty of time for my bus, which I'd booked back on my first day once I knew what time I could be back for. I'm headed to Calama for the night so I could catch an early flight back to Santiago the next day. This is the first bus I've taken by myself in South America, not bad, and very comfy. I worried a bit about when we would arrive since the bus appeared to be crawling along at 30km hour, but eventually it would pick up the speed. Outside, night was falling so there wasn't much we could see. After arriving at the Calama bus station, it was about a 15-20 minute walk to the hotel. The MDS Calama was a great spot for the night after several days in the desert, a touch of almost luxury at $50USD and just a short taxi ride from the airport.Read more
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- Day 5
- Friday, February 23, 2018 at 11:24 AM
- ☀️ 35 °C
- Altitude: 2,436 m
ChileSan Pedro de Atacama22°54’31” S 68°11’59” W
The Lagunas Antiplanicas

Probably one of the most popular day trips, the lagunas antiplanicas is on many travellers' lists. We got picked up bright and early to start our drive and have breakfast in a local picnic spot just off the road. Nobody else was there and we could see other minivans cruising past as we enjoyed a simple breakfast prepared by our driver. Before the meal, he had dropped us off about a 10 minute walk away to savor the scenery and observe some owls nesting nearby on the ground.
Our first official stop was the village of Toconao and it was on the brief side. I think it was more of a washroom stop as we otherwise only had time for photos of the church's bell tower (as advertised) in the square before a quick visit to a local woman who ran a souvenir shop. She was knitting when we entered and our guide led us to visit her pet llama and telling us a little about local life in the village.
Afterwards, our drive continues along Route 23 where we were introduced to the Tropic of Capricorn. Not something I had thought we would do, but a cool experience indeed. Some took across photos lying on the quiet road with little traffic, but I was content to have a short marvel at the well known latitude. From there we climbed higher and higher into the Andean Mountains. The temperature drops, the winds pick up, and hopefully you're a little acclimatized for the altitude (4200m if memory serves correct). When you get out of the van, they do remind to you take it a little slow. Also, do not forget the sunscreen.
Over the next few hours, we would visit the Miscanti and Miniques lagoons, large, blue, beautiful and calm under the clear skies. To get a full picture, you'll either that panorama or a wide angle lens. They're named for the nearby volcanos, whose melted else led to their creation. We'd check out the Salar de Atacama salt flats, marvelling at the sheer size of it. The white grains cover the landscape. I imagine it's a snippet and preview of those dominating the area around Uyuni. I haven't been there yet, but it's my list someday. The seemingly unreal scenery takes away the breath of some, but for me, it was oddly just nice. Maybe it's because I'd seen similar landscapes in parts of Peru only the past summer. Not that I didn't appreciate the splendour of nature here, but I guess I was looking for more. Our guide did tell us an sad legend about the volcanos and gods, where their tears became the lagoons that we had come to see. We did see our fair share of wildlife though, spotting guanacos, rheas (Chilean ostrich), a culpeo (Andrea fox) and a local rabbit!
After that, it was off for a late lunch in the village of Socaire - this stop I think really is just a lunch stop. We didn't get to see anything really aside from a local restaurant which catered to what seemed like every tour to come through. There's a simple set menu to choose from and then we were off again, this time to the Laguna Chaxa, part of a natural reserve for flamingos.
There are 3 types of flamingos in the area, the Chilean flamingo, the Andean flamingo and the James flamingo. I think we only saw two types, but that's okay. For some in our group, this was what they had been looking forward to all day and they weren't disappointed. I'd say we had ample time to walk around, take photos of the flamingos peacefully in their habitat, and just simply observe them. I was hoping for more flamingos, but most were probably elsewhere in the vast park as a few dotted the water closer to where most people stay.Read more
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- Day 4
- Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 3:51 AM
- ☀️ 17 °C
- Altitude: 2,436 m
ChileSan Pedro de Atacama22°54’31” S 68°11’59” W
Rainbows and Stars

My original plan today was the Lagunas Altiplanicas, but of course when you book day trips around arrival, you're a bit stuck with availability. That said, I'm a big believer in things happening for a reason and this time, it was 2 tours pairing perfectly in 1 day.
First up, a half day to the Rainbow Valley. While not quite as cool as the photos of the one we read about in Peru, this was still a picturesque site that we got to wander in and even check out a dried out waterfall. The latter was a bit of a climb but neat to check out. The colors of the landscape varied according to the mineral composition of the rocks, giving it a bit of a surreal feeling that would be the theme of this leg of the trip. It was a nice walk, exploring the area before we headed to the second part of the tour - petroglyphs. Now these, I hadn't expected on the tour, so it was a welcome surprise. Our guide pointed out various shapes and told theories of trading routes in the area.
Back in town, I had probably what was the best pasta the entire trip. Hungry after the tour, one of my tour mates and I headed stepped into Pizzeria El Charrua. Well known for their pizza, and I'd seen a line up the night before, this tiny eatery also serves up amazing pastas. I had the spaghetti carbonara and finished the whole dish! (unusual when I'm travelling).
After lunch, it was off to confirm my stargazing tour for the night. Now this, I had already reserved online as it's not only super popular, but I believe it may also be the only tour that allows you to use telescopes on site to gaze deep into the Milky Way. Run by astronomers, this night tour could be considered the highlight of my time here. It runs late at night of course, and is subject to weather. I heard tours the night before were cancelled. Also, this tour has an all English option. (http://www.spaceobs.com/en)
Unfortunately, our confirmation time would get pushed, so I was back at 9pm again, anxiously waiting with many others to see if we might be lucky. The minutes ticked by as the crowd gathered. The poor lady working there was on her own, fielding inquiries while waiting for news on her mobile. Finally, we would have our answer and it was a good one (especially since I'm quite sure tours were also cancelled the Friday and Saturday following next).
My English tour would be at 11pm, so I hurried back to the hostal to drop off dinner leftovers and change into something warm. The drive was quiet but filled with excitement. Overhead, the skies were incredibly clear and our amazingly knowledgeable guide would fill our minds with stories, pointers on finding certain stars and constellations.
Part 2 of the tour allowed us to take turns at the various telescopes set to various points in the night sky and also take photos. A few people had brought tripods, but I'd decided against one given I didn't want to lug it around. Instead I parked myself on the ground and made a makeshift stand which worked well enough.
One of the volunteers noticed though and kindly lent me his tripod. Turns out this volunteer was a fellow backpacker (kudos to him for packing a tripod) and an astrophysicist. He was super helpful in checking my camera settings, which were in the right neighbourhood (thank you Google) and I was able to take a few really cool pictures.Read more
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- Day 3
- Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:11 PM
- 🌧 19 °C
- Altitude: 2,436 m
ChileSan Pedro de Atacama22°54’31” S 68°11’59” W
A Launchpad for Scenic Adventures

After I decided that I'd be going to Patagonia, I knew I could not miss including the Atacama Desert in the itinerary. Being a solo traveler and a very infrequent driver, finding a good deal was admittedly a challenge. But in the end, I was able to cobble something budget friendly together and have an amazing several days.
How did I get there? It all started with a 3am wakeup call to go to the airport - and as much as we try to avoid these hours, sometimes it's the best start to a day. Aside from driving or taking the bus to the Atacama from Santiago, one can fly inexpensively from Santiago to Calama, a nearby town. From there, you can rent or a car, take a bus - though albeit only a 2 hr ride, or take a transfer with Transvip when you land. For about $20 CAD, they'll drop you right at your hotel. You can also book a transfer back, though I opted for the bus but more on that later.
After a scenic drive, they dropped me off at the hostal. You can easily search hotels.com or bookings.com, any one of those sites. Me, I like staying right in the middle of the town. Even though there are nicer hotels about 10 minutes walking, those 10 minutes can seem far in the night, and you might find yourself out at those late hours. My room wasn't quite ready yet, which was fine. Right after I dropped my bag off, I headed off to the agencies to book myself my tours.
Prior to leaving, I'd only booked the Moon Valley tour through keteka.com . There didn't seem to be much online except through Viator and I'd heard from a friend I can easily book once I arrive. A lot of agencies only take cash though, so bring extra or be prepared to exchange money or use an ATM. It's almost overwhelming trying to pick an agency. You want a good tour and for a fair price, and it can be hard to pick. Through the grapevine, I'd later find out that there are only 3 companies who, if you book with them, guarantee that tour is actually run by them (Viva Atacama, Terre Extreme and Flamingo). Most, if not all the guides, are actually contractors too that work with varying companies. I spent a good part of the morning and early afternoon sorting out my next 3 days in the Atacama, and ended up booking 3 tours with Terre Extreme (Lagunas Altiplanica, Salar de Tara and the Rainbow Valley).
When the mid-afternoon rolled around, I was all set and ready to go on the Moon Valley tour through Keteka's local operator (White & Green). Be aware that nearly every tour you take will be bilingual (Spanish and English). Most tours follow similar itineraries but not won't be identical. Ours would turn out to be a really fun one as we made the short 10km drive out from town.
Our first stop would be the Three Marias, which also became the setting for a brief rainstorm in the driest desert in the area. Picture the surprise on our face as the raindrops started falling fast and furious before we ran back to the van for cover. Fortunately, the rain didn't last long, and soon enough we were back to climbing dunes, going higher and higher to take in the unusual lunar landscape. Later, we would also visit some salt caves (not everyone goes!) near the entrance. Remember to bring a headlamp and be a little careful with some tight spaces.
Finally, it was off to a viewpoint for sunset. Our tour had advertised sunset atop the Big Dune, but the way we spent our hours was perfect. I want to say we went to the Mirador de Kari, but writing this a few weeks later, I really can't be sure anymore.Read more
TravelerGreat photos, Rita! Who is the person drawn on the building? Eva Peron?
Rita YeeGood eye! Yes, it's Eva Peron. There's a different drawing of her on the other side of the building, but I always seem to see this one as I rarely went past there
TravelerRita, love your photos, especially your street photos! You really have an eye for an excellent angle and scene! Keep up the great work! :-)