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Vagabonding
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Vagabonding

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  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Santiago de Compostela

    3. november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The cathedral in Santiago de Compostela is the end of the journey for many travelers. Most pilgrims lie down on the ground, tear their shoes off their feet and then lie stretched out for hours on the square in front of the cathedral.
    I don't have this feeling of having completed an episode. But since I'm still on my way that doesn't matter.

    I treat myself to a bed and breakfast and lie down on a feather bed for the first time in weeks.
    The subsequent hot shower reawakens my spirits.    Læs mere

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    Bike logistics

    4. november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I am in Santiago de Compostela.
    The next destination of my journey is supposed to be Madrid, where my cousin lives with her family.
    To get there I would have to drive right into the heart of Spain: over the hilly Sierra de Léon, then hundreds of kilometres through relatively flat, presumably steppe country and finally over the Sierra de Guadarrama, whose mountain peaks are up to 2 430m high.
    Since my further travel plan then takes me from north to south through Portugal, I would have to drive almost the same distance back again after the visit. 😮‍💨
    There are the following alternatives:
    a) Take the bike on the train or bus
    b) Store the bike safely and travel on to Madrid on my own.

    I would prefer to have everything with me., but soon it turns out that this is not easy:
    - Busses only transport bikes with the front wheel removed. 😕
    - Regional trains with bike transport only run from Ourense, about 80km away. ☹️
    - High-speed trains transport bikes packed in a cardboard box but my expedition bike will never ever fit into the allowed shoe boxes. 😖

    So removing the front wheel is the least of the evils. As luck would have it, I also lose my special front wheel dismounting tool on this very day.
    Now I can't remove my front wheel and a flat tire will paralyse my journey until I have organised a replacement for the special tool.
    Bravo, Til! Great job! 👏 🥳

    In the end, all I can hope for is to get to Ourense without a breakdown and to catch a regional train there that will accept my bike - as it is - and take it to Madrid. 🤞
    So off to Ourense!

    Once I am there I find out that bicycles are not transported on trains from here. Except in the direction of Santiago, I could happily go there! 🤪
    I need another solution.

    The easiest thing to do now would be to store my bike safely and continue traveling alone, because right now the bike is just a millstone on my leg. And although it's a bit strange at first to leave my most important item to strangers, that's exactly what I'll do.
    The very first hostel where I present my plan supports me and takes care of the bike for a whole week. After so many difficulties, I hadn't imagined it would be so easy.    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Ourense's hospitality

    6. november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I have found it: the place where I am a friend, not just a traveler.

    So I made a plan to leave my bike in Ourense while I go to Madrid. Now I look for someone to look after the bike and go to the first hostel near the station.
    I tell the man behind the counter my problem and he agrees to look after the bike for a week - without payment - just like that.

    I cycle around the city and then return to the hostel to park the bike and book a room.
    After paying, I take the bags off the bike and put them at the foot of the stairs leading to the rooms - a few metres away from the bike. While I am setting up the pile of bags, the owner indicates to me to quickly get the bike off the street, because here in the lobby he has an overview and it will not be stolen. A waiter is briefly initiated by the owner and then helps me carry the bike into the cellar.

    Later that evening, I have all the bags packed and the most important things organised. At the bar I see the waiter, who greets me with a smile and asks directly what I would like. I order a beer and take it to my room.

    Later still, I come to the bar again. The waiter sees me, pulls an ice-cold beer out from under the counter and looks at me questioningly. I nod and smile, he smiles, we understand each other - everything's perfect. 😁    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Madrid

    7. november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I would never have dreamed that this little break would be so nice. ❤️
    Besides the impressions of the city and the beautiful moments with my cousin Aurelia*, her husband John*, son Jack* and the pet dog Pino*, this short break changed my strategy for the rest of the trip.

    But one thing at a time.

    After the gruelling last few weeks through all the mountains of northern Spain, I rejoice in the banalities of a stationary life: the flowing coffee, the hot shower and the ever-ready bed. 🥰
    I spend a whole eight days here on foot as a tourist and it's wonderful.

    Together with my cousin, I discover the city, we walk through the different districts and I really like it. I criss-cross the city on buses, the metro and local trains and lose myself there for several hours without a specific destination.

    I eat churros for the first time - deep-fried dough sticks that you dip in chocolate - and which are better kept away from open flames because of their energy content 😉 .

    I meet Ruven* and Steven*, two friends from Karlsruhe who have lived here for years and spend a typical Spanish day with me in a market hall. There I can once again watch with amusement the growth of groups in Spain. Everyone brings a few friends and in no time at all the whole bar is occupied. 😆

    The highlight for me is the evening at the houseof John's* parents, where I get an insight into Spanish culture that I hadn't had before. We eat the best tortillas and I see how they are made (and how much effort they take).

    The evening also shows me that I have been missing cultural exchange so far. I have seen the country but only got to know the culture superficially.
    It is questionable whether I will be able to learn much more about countries and its people when I travel, but at least I want to try.

    * names changed    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Final statistics Spain

    16. november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    I was looking forward to cycling again, but today is a merciless day. It rains all day. On top of that, there are four high peaks, so that at the end of the day I have climbed 1 400 metres in altitude (the route over the Pyrenees had 1 530). Driving is no fun today ☹️
    I am a bit frozen through and keep warm during the day with thoughts of a crackling fireplace and a cosy sheepskin blanket, at some point I don't want to anymore and pitch the tent almost right next to the road.
    I crawl into my warm sleeping bag and forget about the rain outside. All is well again. 😄

    In the afternoon I roll out of Spain and into Portugal. Time for a little final statistics:

    Days in Spain: 27
    Distance travelled: 1 109 km
    Elevation gain: 15 580 hm    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Viana do Castelo

    17. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today will be a special day:
    I found José's name in the cyclists' network 'warmshowers' and asked for an overnight stay - he agreed.
    Together with his wife Maria and their dog Nuka, they welcome me like a member of the family: I am invited to dinner and then allowed to spend the night in one of the former children's rooms.
    This is especially nice because the weather outside is changeable in April and I want to get dry again 🙂 .    Læs mere

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    Póvoa de Varzim

    18. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    The quest for the special tool continues. It has already arrived in Madrid and has to be sent on its way to me in Portugal. As I am already ahead of the shipment, I have to wait a few days.
    Meanwhile, the weather is worse than ever. It rains every day for a whole week, alternating between showers, normal and heavy rain. 🌦️
    At first it's still bearable because my clothes dry out in between, but in the meantime, after five days, the sun is too rare and the air is too cold and damp for my clothes to dry well.

    I make an unexpected observation about my waterproof frame bag during the downpours: it lets water in and then doesn't let it out again 😂 I hadn't really imagined it to be waterproof. 🤨 After two small cuts with the knife, the water now runs off again...

    The room I took for the rainy season here has no heating (I don't think it's that common here in Portugal), which is why I lie covered in bed for most of the day. That's an interesting experience and I don't mind since I don't miss anything outside.
    During the breaks in the rain I go for a walk and once I even try jogging.
    Not such a good idea, as I realise after 10 minutes when my right and then my left leg cramp up badly. With a limp I turn back.
    And then the next rain shower comes. 😓 Great.    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Matosinhos

    22. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    I work my way forward. Piece by piece to my package and through the rain.
    The weather forecast predicts that the sky will soon run out of water. 🤞

    As a highlight, I eat in a really good Mexican restaurant. It's easier to get something vegetarian there. 😄Læs mere

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  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    The streets of Porto

    23. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    If you want to get to know a new city, it's best to use its local transport. You get much closer to people that way, you can talk to them or have a discussion. Like the good elderly lady to whom I just offered my seat in the metro and who declined with thanks and then continued talking for another two minutes before I confessed that I hadn't understood a word. She thanks me again, that much I have understood.

    Then I'm in Porto and wander aimlessly through the neighbourhoods. It's hilly - that should make for some nice views, I think to myself (I have no idea yet how nice the views will be!).
    The neighbourhoods are to my taste: there are many crooked streets: you don't see everything immediately, but you will be surprised around every corner.
    Many houses are tiled on the outside and thus probably well protected from the weather, and overall in good condition.
    I notice that many artists play music here (today) and I notice how positively that influences the atmosphere.
    Almost at the highest point of the city, the bridge of Luiz I spans 400 metres over the Douro river and offers me a beautiful view of both banks. On both sides the waterfront promenade stretches with shops and more artists (you can even hear the music up here! 🥰).

    The promenade is also worth a visit. Among the many market stalls selling cork handicrafts is the largest collection of tin cans I know of (see gallery).    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Francisco, the hiker

    25. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I'm lucky with the weather again. The sun is shining and life is good. ☺️
    But the real highlight today is Francisco, who is cycling around the Iberian Peninsula. When we meet, he already has more than 3500 km of the total 5000 km under his belt. He has been on the road for a year.

    If you want to follow him: he's on Instagram: @frabano    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    The big waves of Nazaré

    29. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Nazaré is said to have the biggest surfable waves. The current world record was set in 2013 on a wave over 23 metres high by Garrett McNamara 😳 (the video is on the internet and is mega impressive. A photo of little Garrett is in the gallery).

    During my stay there is no surfing and the waves are unfortunately (or fortunately?) not that huge but it is great fun just to watch them land. How they pile up, get steeper and bigger, the top edge gets caught by the wind and turns them into fine mist and finally they break and fall into chaos.    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Wave physics

    29. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Check out this cool coastline! Here, access to the ocean is only in a narrow spot between two cliffs, behind which is the semi-circular beach. The waves reach the beach at virtually the same time at every point. And they are so tiny 🙂 .
    It brings back memories of physics class....    Læs mere

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    Obridos

    30. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    They have their castle gift wrapped!!! How cool is that!
    I would love to be here at Christmas time, it must be really nice when a child gets to open the huge bow of the present.

    Just past the village I pass a brick factory. Everything is terracotta-coloured. 😄Læs mere

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  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    I hate this rain ❤️

    30. november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    In the preliminary talks for my trip, I was asked again and again what I would do in certain situations:
    What would happen if I encountered wild boars?
    What would happen if I didn't get any money from the ATMs?
    What would I do if I had to fight a pack of snarling street dogs uphill with a flat tyre?

    Today's question is much more banal and is:
    How do I behave when it is raining and I have just broken the zipper of my rain jacket?

    My first idea, to tie the jacket with a piece of rope, lasts about 5 minutes, then the rope is so loose again that I might as well leave it alone...

    I envy the drivers who come towards me in their warm and protected cocoons.

    The second half of the day is much more pleasant because I have a great restaurant dinner (with dessert!) and move into a surfer's hostel in the evening. It's raining buckets outside, but I don't care. A little rain 🌊🌊🌊 is also good for nature. 🤪

    The wet memories of the rain will eventually fade, while the memories of the conversations in the hostel and my new resolution will remain:
    I will learn to surf. 🏄‍♂️    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Western point of continental Europe

    1. december 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The way here is an adventure again: up and down hills, off-road through the mud and then I am rewarded with this spectacular view.

    At a petrol station I make a routine pump-up stop and notice the loose spokes on my rear wheel.
    I've always been suspicious of bicycle spokes, some people think lacing is a mystical process, others always lace everything by hand. I, who have no idea, cheerfully tighten the loose spokes one by one. (Author's note in retrospect: here I should have paused again and reminded myself of the mechanics).
    After 60 minutes I have tightened some of the spokes, but there are still some loose ones and I notice that the wheel is now wobbly. Yay! I've fixed it broken! 😅
    But as long as it's still rolling, it has to carry me.
    Lisbon is not far away, I'm sure I can get some help there.    Læs mere

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  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Lisbon

    2. december 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    I have arrived in Lisbon. My overnight spot near the lighthouse is close to the cliff and I watch the powerful surf for some time.

    In town I meet my uncle, aunt and cousin who live in Portugal. My sister joins me from Germany and we explore the town together.
    I have only seen a part of it - a part that I like very much. The city is very mountainous and the streets wind along the mountain slopes, which makes orientation difficult. =)
    There is a lot to discover...    Læs mere

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    Gert

    11. december 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    On the ferry to Tróia I meet Gert, who is also heading south. He rides a Gazelle road bike, which bends quite a bit under the weight of his luggage but holds up bravely. Unlike me, he has managed to keep up his hobbies - accordion and knitting are stowed in his bags.
    We ride together for a while and exchange stories over coffee before parting ways again.
    You always meet twice in life. 😊    Læs mere

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    Crazy Weather

    12. december 2022, Portugal

    The wind is merciless and hits my bike here directly on the coast almost unhindered and pushes it backwards. Too bad I want to go this way and there's a strong wind for the next few days. 😊
    The only thing that helps is to downshift. Music lifts my mood and makes me feel like I'm doing a power exercise.

    The weather forecast is not a reliable aid to decision-making at the moment. Normally you can predict rain and showers a few hours in advance. At least the weather radar has always been reliable here in the past.
    With this in mind, I try to plan the next two days and create an hour-based timetable between the wet phases. My three meteorological sources give me three different answers. All forecast a mix of rain, thunderstorms and drizzle. 😂
    The Portuguese civil defence sends me a short message warning of storm surges in my region. 😬

    In the end, I just set off - with the chair-dancing strategy: make fast progress between the villages and check each time in the villages how the weather will develop.
    The gloomy forecasts do not match my own observations, because the sky is overcast but so thin that I can see the sun shining through now and then.

    Sure, it drizzles from time to time, but it's not as bad as forecast.
    However, I can rely on the headwind 😉 .    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    São Bartolomeu de Messines

    14. december 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    I arrived at my uncle, aunt and cousin's house. They live amidst the orange and nectarine fields.

    I came to rest, I left beyond with deepened family ties and a wealth of memories. I got to know my cousin, my uncle and my aunt, who have been living outside Germany for two years, from a closer perspective.
    I had my first experience of camper life and thought about possible future accommodation. I will try out what life in a Tinyhouse feels like in the future. Maybe I will build out a camper myself?

    Through a telescope I saw the moon and its craters in greater focus and detail than ever before, and got to thinking about the importance of our place in the universe.
    I saw Mars, Jupiter and its moons and some distant star(s).

    We solved puzzles together in an abandoned hut and a maze.

    I tried my hand as a substitute DJ during a party and quickly took a liking to it. I always wondered what they were doing so concentrated at their mixing desks while everyone else was having a good time. Now I can say that it is quite a piece of work to mix the right songs and effects together and create a live composition.    Læs mere

  • TakeMeFurtherVagabondingRejsende

    Broken spokes in Olhão

    16. januar 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    The journey continues. It wasn't easy to say goodbye, but at the same time I was drawn back out onto the road.
    The cycle paths are super easy to ride and the weather is fantastic.
    On the way, I try a prickly pear, which grows by the roadside here. It reminds me of a kiwi. Tastes great! 👍

    Shortly before Olhão I notice broken spokes, which I have professionally repaired.
    At the hostel I meet a few other tourists with whom I have a nice evening. It's great fun and I learn that there are wild chameleons in the Algarve. I really want to find them!    Læs mere

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    The search for chamaeleo chamaeleon

    18. januar 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Damn, the animals are well hidden. I don't find any chameleons here, but I do find representatives of other species.

    In the evening I lie in the forest and look up at the starry sky. Orion is above me, moving further west with each passing second. I feel the warmth of the ground against my back and am amazed at the endless expanse above me.
    I listen to the favourite music of my youth and feel more self-centered than I have in a long time. ☺️    Læs mere

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    Niebla and Río Tinto

    21. januar 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Back on Spanish soil!
    In contrast to the north, it is much better to drive here: for one thing, the landscape is so beautifully flat and for another, the main roads are not so busy.

    I pass feeding flamingos (my first sighting in the wild!) and arrive in the town of Niebla.
    The town of just under 4 000 inhabitants has an impressive fortress and the question arises as to what is being guarded or protected there 🤨.
    The Río Tinto, the 'red river', flows through the town and plays an interesting colourful game with the blue sky...    Læs mere

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