Drago D28 The big push

As we were such a small group compared to the usual Dragoman groups of 20 we had been doing good time. So the plan for today changed from a 12km trek to a 16km trek, including a second pass meaning aLue lisää
As we were such a small group compared to the usual Dragoman groups of 20 we had been doing good time. So the plan for today changed from a 12km trek to a 16km trek, including a second pass meaning a warmer campsite for our second night, less walking the 3rd day and possible access to beer. Olly was sold at once.
We were woken up at 05:30 by "tent service" a warm drink to enjoy in the tent as we got ourselves ready. Breakfast was pancakes with a smilely face written in caramel! We firmally met our camping crew, the two mule drivers are Nelson and Walter the latter being Mr Wari's son. Mist decended as we had breakfast and the trek continued through it and we couldn't see much at our first pass. A steep downhill bought us into a local community where our Mule drivers came from. The locals were busy in their potato fields as it was harvest season. A uphill before lunch nearly finished us off as our reserves ran out.
Going up and around a few mountains we continued to the second pass, racing the rain we could see behind us. The view of snowy mountain tops and glaciers around sacred valley were breathtaking. The pisco came out again and we thanked Pacchamama before continuing to run from the rain down the valley. We started to hear loud music and cheering. In the village below we could see hundreds of people dancing, racing horses and playing football. It was the festival of the cross and day 2 of their celebrations! We reached camp just before the rain!
All washed up Mr Wari went on a beer run so we enjoyed beers and cards after supper. Exhausted we headed for bed just as the camp staff headed to the party!Lue lisää
Our big push yesterday was rewarded with a lie in today of 06:30. Rearing to go after breakfast we only had 3 hours of hiking to do! Saying goodbye to the camp staff they looked a little sheepish and appologised for getting in late from the party. None of us had heard them so we reassured them and thanked then profusely for the amazing service they provide. They deserved a party.
Starting down through the village a handful of people were still partying and dancing outside a hosue higher in the valley. Evidence of heavy partying could be found in the poor sheep still stuck in their corals their owners fast asleep, and one poor man had fallen asleep in a field with his mule looking on. Even Mr Wari had a slower pace today.
We rounded the corner and could see our aim of the morning an Incan pit stop used to house the runners that would take messages to and from Cusco. A pretty place it had a temple and storage houses restored by the government. Beneath it was a beautiful waterfall with cooling mists. As we neared the end we passed our first lot of tourists for the whole time. They had a lot of going up ahead of them and Olly gleefully wished them luck. We reached our end destination Soricha, and celebrated with a big beer.
A bus picked us up to bring us to Ollyatambo. Here my adventures of the day came to an end as I became very very very very sick. I'm not kidding. Thank god it happened in the hotel is all I can say.Lue lisää
A knock at 06:30 was my deadline; did I feel well enough to go to Macchu Piccu, or did I take the taxi booked back to Cusco later in the morning. Things seemed to have settled, so even though I felt weak as a kitten I opted to get on the train, and the taxi was canceled.
The scenery from the train was enough to distract me as we passed into a tropical area and the snowy mountains lay high above (the train had windows in its roof!). We passed the start of the classical inca trek (good luck with the steps) and pulled into Agua Caliantes about two hours later. Here we jumped into a bus which ferried us high up into the hills. Pulling round a corner we had our first sight of Macchu Piccu!
After a small queue we were in and we climbed to the top for the picture postcard view. I started to feel weak but pushed it out of my mind as I took in the incredible sight. A whole incan city preserved, it streched out away from me towards the next mountain. Among the terraces you could already see the llamas posing for pictures!
Pierro started his tour and my symptoms got worse. I excused myself as the rest continued on. Wandering through the city towards the exit I tried to take it all in before I left it behind. They charge 1 sol per entry to the toilet in Macchu Picchu by the way. No return rates. They made some money from me that day.
Taking pity on me after the tour, Pierro took me back down to Agua Calientes where his favourite haunt had sofa like chairs that I could lie down on, and a toilet within distance. A few naps later (and more than a few beers for Pierro) the rest arrived back and we headed back towards Cusco. I've never been so happy to be in bed.
Next morning I felt better and it was time to say goodbye to Lou, Olly and Karen as they all had flights to catch. We walked around the catherdral (full of incan gold) and an Incan museum. Checking into a hostel by ourselves for the first time in a month felt odd. Luckily it was a lively place with good cheap food so we grabbed something to eat before meeting David for a last drink. Just before we headed out I spotted a familiar face. Iwan was a Cardiff medic in the same year as me travelling with his boyfriend! Small world!
Meeting David in the main square we hiked up to Cusco view point a lovely bar that overlooks the whole of Cusco and enjoyed a few mojitos and pisco sours. It was a sad goodbye as we had our final hugs. Dragoman had been a lot of fun with some amazing people!Lue lisää
Lowri JonesO Sara! Neshi'm dalld bo chdi cweit mor ryff ar skype. Am niwsans! Dwi'n dal i fyny efo'ch hanas chi'n ara deg! Xx
Out last day in Cusco was spent relaxing in the hostel trying to ignore my ongoing feelings of sickness. We were down to three as we were joining Izzy as she made her way down to Arequipa and her work abroad scheme. We caught a extremely bumpy night bus and arrived in Arequipa at dawn.
A very pretty city surrounded by three volcanoes we collapsed into bright orange sofas adorning the hostels rooftop terrace until the coffee shops opened. Taking it easy with food I ordered a light breakfast forgetting the gargantuon size of any South American meal.
Izzy had enough energy for a walking tour, James and I did not. A very hot shower and a nap later I felt human again for the first time in days. With Izzy back she became our tour guide with her new knowledge of the city. The market had fruit stalls piled high and we chanced on their empanadas, cooked for extra long by request which earnt us an eye roll.
We continued through the prettiest main square with palm trees, on one side lies the cathedral with volcano misti behind. We continued past to see the convent. A city within a city this complex was full of cloisters, narrow streets and small squares. Initally for wealthy nuns they all had a house each with a servant until reformation forced them together.
Returning to the hostel we enjoyed some beers on the patio until sunset. Listening to the garbage truck bekow which for some reason blasted out Little Mermaid on steel drums. Supper was at a place I spotted on tripadvisor. Simple and cheap food, you had 6 different variaties of potato at the bottom and could choose any topping you liked on top - for me chorizo! On arrival they ask where you're from so we ended up with a Welsh flag proudly adorning our table. Izzy has become honorary welsh.
The next day we relaxed most of the day waiting for the last marathon bus to take us to Lima. Scoffing pizza before we said our goodbyes to Izzy we set off for our last city in South America.Lue lisää
A looooong bus ride later and we ended up in Miraflores Lima. Staying in a bohemian hostel called the Healing dog it has a naked hairless mascot called Pisco who became pissed off that I'd taken his favourite seat, the sofa.
A brief walk down to the seafront in blazing heat showed pretty gardens including the garden of the lovers, which included a statue of a couple snogging- the japanese went wild. We enjoyed crepes whilst watching the surfers below. Retreating from the blazing heat we sorted ourselves out packingwise before venturing out for supper.
Miraflores reminds me of Miami Florida with art deco type buildings dotting the avenues in pastel colours. Supper was had in what was a beer/ football/ going out venue but they did a surprisingly good Schnitzel!! Back to the hostel we finally opened our expensive Mendoza wine (sooo good) and cheered a farwell to South America.
Lessons learnt in South America
1. You need more Spanish than what we had, or a lovely half Spanish girl called Izzy who will take pity and translate. Many thanks Izzy!!
2. TMI but your first normal bowel motion after an illness is to be seriously celebrated.
3. Don't take photos of Bolivians, they.do.not.like.it!
4. Rio might be batshit crazy and a bit scary but the spectacle of the city is worth it.
5. People will say every city in South America is dangerous, be sensible and confident and you will have no problems. Don't be that nervous traveller, go explore.
6. Book Cama in the night buses and the better companies. The extra money WILL buy you extra sleep
7. Booking a Dragoman tour was the best decision. We saw so much more than we could ever have tried in that time in great company, young and old.
8. Go see your bucket list even if you risk throwing up all over it "I went to Per-ah and chundered everywhere" comes to mind 🙈
9. The wine is amazing
10. The steak even better
Hasta luega Sud America, it was a travel experiecce of a life time.
Here comes the US of A......Lue lisää
South America left behind, 5 films and three glasses of wine later, we landed in LAX. Having had grumpy Americans at security and customs in previous visits to the US, we were pleasnantly supprised as we went through in half an hour.
A jump in a expensive taxi and we were in Santa Monica, just above LA. Dumping our stuff in the very expensive hostel room, we walked out into the night to explore. We walked down to the pier, full of colour and noise of the fun fair. People sold crafts, sang and even played the sitar to passers by.
Climbing back up past muscle beach we walked along 3rd street full of the popular american brand names. We were starving so after months of avoiding as much as we could "American" food we went to town. Steak 'n' shake had mouthwatering steak burgers with gorgeous salty fries and that wonderfull soda machine with 50 different flavours of pop. After 3 months of luminous orange fanta drinking other flavours was wonderful. I am going to gorge myself on American food!! The weight I lost from food poisioning will soon be replaced.
Tomorrow road trip USA starts!Lue lisää
We picked up our Chevy Impala and made our way out of Santa Monica. The morning was spent working our way up the coast past gorgeous sea front properties on the pacific coast highway. We pulled into Santa Barbara a picture perfect town with colonial style buildings lining its mains street. First stop was an apple store for an aux cable for the car. The Californian radio stations are either spanish, good fearing or play a LOT of Adele.
Lunch was had in a little pizza chain with wood fired pizza. Yum!! A pit stop into H&M and we found cheap clothes to update our wardrobe, having found that no one in their right mind can afford Abercrombie and Fitch. $60 for a skirt or $75 for a jumper!
Continuing up the road, sadly the pacific coast highway is closed due to landslides, so we headed inland, powered by Starbucks and frozen yoghurt. We passed through grassy hills, that turned into vineyards. No time to stop more wine tasting will have to wait for NZ.
We arrived into Monterey just before sunset into a friendly HI hostel. Walking down to Fisherman's warf we could hear but not seen the sea lions of the cove. Called in to one of the restaraunts by promise of good chowder we were sat by the window watching the boats bob on the sea. We shared some perfectly cooked calamari and I had some New England Chowder in a bread bowl. It was creamy and filling, and went down well with the local red wine.Lue lisää
Ian MurrayNice looking model in front of a beautiful jacaranda tree in full flower. Dx👕👞?
After some pancakes we drove across California to reach Yosemite national park. We hit the park's rush hour at lunch time so it took an hour to gain entry. Luckily a pit stop at a humongus Walmart ment we were well stocked, and a roadtrip playlist kept us happy. When we finally reached the enterance, the ranger gleefully snatched the dollars out of my hand and ushered us in.
Our first stop was the furthest viewpoint of the day, Glacier point. It had only opened two days prior due to the snow still encrusting the top of the peaks. On the way up the park truly put on a show. As the snow is melting, waterfalls adorn the granite surfaces dropping hundreds of meters to the valley floor.
Glacier point did not disappoint with a panoramic view of half dome with the valleys either side. Working our way back down, a stop at Tunnel view gave a vista of El Capitan (the background of your iMac) and a beautiful waterfall. Taking our chance to see the waterfall closer we got soaked in its mist. Well worth it to capture its eternal rainbow at the bottom!
A cruise through yosemite valley as the sun set completed our tour for the day. As night approached we left the park to our accomadation for the next day, Yosemite bug resort. Tucked away up a hill we gratefully went off to sleep.
Next day our plans varied greatly. James hiked a round journey of 20 miles to the top of clouds rest, a challenge he set himself, getting up before the dawn. I would bum around the rustic resort having blueberry pancakes, catching up with friends and having a spa day with massage. Travelling for months takes it toll especially at the breakneck pace we did South America. You sometimes miss those lazy days on the sofa watching netflix or reading a book.Lue lisää
We arrived into San Fransisco just after lunch, driving across Bay bridge we could see golden gate in the distance and the city an ecclectic mix of 20th century buildings and sky scrappers. The air stank of weed having just been legalised in November, and more than a few eccentric homless wandered the streets.
First thing first was to grab a new phone for James and I bought a pair of jeans to fit in with the locals. As it fell dark we explored china town to find its streets empty apart from the lanterns criss crossing the streets. Stopping to eat at a tripadvisor find we had yummy burgers.
Next day we hopped onto a cable car (a tram) at its table turn in Powell Street. Vintage looking with staff with colourfull and loud personalities we had fun running up and down the steep San Fransiscan hills down to Fisherman's warf.
Exploring the wharf area we had a quick look at pier 39 (very touristy) before Brunch in a cafe James loved from a previous visit! Eating quickly we then made our way to pier 33 for a cruise to Alcatraz. A grey misty day the island looked forbidding in the bay.
Our first place to visit wad the industries building which had a photo exihbition about the last day of the prison. Outside stood a park ranger who gave a hilarious talk about the known escape attempts from the prison. Up the hill a audio tour took you around the prison buildings, past the isolation block, through the "gen pop" blocks to the officer rooms.
By some miracle we were let off the island and continued to explore the cheap eats around the hostel, this time a slice of pizza which when it came was as big as my head. Supersize US!Lue lisää
After a doomed trip to see if we could ship things back home to lighten the souvineir load (big fat no at $200 for a package 😨), we ditched the not so free walking tours for the good old hop on hop off bus.
First stop city hall, a beautiful white building with a gold leaf dome. Inside continued with intricate mouldings, and a fair few brides and their parties were mulling around inside. One of the wedding photographers ushered us downstairs to see a exhibition on the summer of love.
Jumping back on the bus we stopped to see the painted ladies, before continuing on to the golden gate park (which isn't close to the bridge). Unfortunately the science museum was out of budget so we walked around and had a great hot dog in the sun.
Highlight of the day came next as we were dropped off on the far end of the bridge. It was a cloudless sunny day so the next hour of walking was spent taking hundreds of photos of this iconic bridge. The aim of staying alive at the end, as the walkway was shared with bicycle traffic from both ways. A tourist on a bike taking a photo is a dangerous thing! Just as we left the boat we saw two couples transfixed by something in the water. A whale had come up for air and was sending spurts of water into the air!
We walked until the palace of fine arts which had gorgeous lake in front, full of turtles. The tour ended as we whizzed towards the pyramid building before ending at the ferry building. San Fran did not disappoint!Lue lisää
Ian MurrayThink I would have ridden the ambulance horse 😄Dx