• Michi, der
  • Franze Dude

Let’s bring Sauna into Africa

South Africa to Germany – at least a try. Read more
  • On the road again

    December 19, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Little traffic on my way to Tanga. One short break for 20 little bananas and a child-sized pineapple, another one for pilau (spicy rice) and Stoney Tangawizi (ginger beer). Get stopped twice for "overspeeding": 56 and 63, each at town entrance, "proof-pictured" directly at the respective 50's traffic sign. Both times I am pretty pissed because the whole part of the town I am driving 20-50 km/h and do not see the point of being fined. There are so many other asses driving like shit which is much more dangerous than not having the correct speed directly at point of town entrance. Arguing with the friendly police wins and I don't pay anything today \m/Read more

  • Paperwork done!

    December 20, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Successfully exchanged the old Carnet de Passage on it's last day of validity for the new one! Was not too easy and I again had to argue a lot but the Horohoro/Lunga Lunga border post was deserted, I was the only person, we had some power outages and the customs guy was nice and cooperative. The car looks way too pretty and clean. I'm gonna change that now!Read more

  • Fish Eagle Point

    December 23, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Dear Felix P. Enner,
    you were supposed to having caught up with me here in Tanzania by now. Apparently this is not the case as all my Schnops bottles (colloquial new-huttisch slang for Schnaps) are still well-sealed. I will never be able to enter the Arabic hemisphere under such circumstances, you know? My neighbouring seat is still unoccupied. While I wade the wild waters of the western Indian Ocean, my hammock dangles emptily between the mangroves. It could have hosted you but it seems that now is not the time. And what about this Christmas we wanted to spend together in the mountains? Remember? I planned to show you all 24 bit shades of colour a chameleon can adopt. Oh my dear friend, I write this letter to you in order to animally go you on your nuts (förmlich-deutsch: jmdm. tierisch auf die Nüsse gehen) or, more scholzishly phrased: in order to well and truly bring you up the palm tree (jmdn. gehörig auf die Palme bringen/aufpalmieren).

    Here at Fish Eagle Point I discovered a remote, calm spot to lick my wounds and in addition to that I also found ... yet another crazy Norwegian who just finished 6000 km within three weeks across Tanzania in his Land Rover. For birdwatching. And he also got stuck like the other one we met together in Botswana. This place is run by Zimbabweans and I already feel integrated into their family. One night simply turned into three. Now, around mid December is supposed to be the worst season for a visit but - as I cannot tell the difference - for me this place truly is a hidden gem of Tanzania! The whole place consists of a labyrinth of narrow paths washed/built into ancient coral limestone. Fossils everywhere! Beware of the sharp edges! Some rocks are easily mistaken for volcanic tuff stone or similar. Obviously the sea level was much higher some many many years ago. So, let me tell you that you can safely stop worrying about climate change. Hidden in dense bush there are scattered guest houses - some of them coming with a private lagoon - and a separated campsite where I sneaked under a tree-bush-thingy with my car. At night you have to watch out for tiny little crabs on the path who live in recycled snail shells and think that they are way stronger than you. People say that in times of scarcity of shells these crabs build houses in plastic debris. So, we should keep on using plastic - especially bottles - and throw it into the ocean from time to time in order to save the crab population. I regularly get visited by super-huge rats with longer tails than yours. They are very clever and not afraid of me camping here. In Morogoro they are trained to scent out land mines and Tuberculosis. Crazy, isn't it? The bush babies make fun of shouting at me in a high-pitched scream while I stroll around at night. Once a small monkey was sitting on my roof rack. There are no mosquitos or nasty other parasites, not at night nor during the day. What a paradise! The bush neatly blends into mangroves. We have strong, warm winds from the sea which throw sea weed and mangrove leaves back on the beach. The tidal variations are immense! Within three hours the water retracts so far that it is barely to be seen. You just hear a faint swooshing of distant waves and can walk around on what has been the bottom of the reef minutes ago. No need for snorkeling, just sit down and say hello to Mr. starfish. You would have had to bring your own drinking water because the water from the well is slightly salty. Even though it's clean and pure the water from the big rain catchment tanks I only recommend for cooking/washing. In the night, when your gaze wanders over the ocean straight to the East, you wonder if it is distant land that you see because of the many lights far away. It's not Pemba Island, it's fishermen! Oh, fish! Did I already tell you about the food?! Holy banana! Yeah, I probably have so I won't go into details here.

    I hope that by now your heart hurts as much as mine =)
    Merry Christmas!
    Michi, der
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  • Serious sewing

    December 29, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I'm still hanging out in Mambo. Why? Don't know. Around Christmas we had wonderful guests here! In general it is quite difficult to leave because permanently nice people are leaving and new awesome ones are arriving. So, how to break free from this evil circle?

    The past two days I spent with two sewing projects. In Mambo downtown I found incredibly patterned Tanzanian cotton fabric, bought it and tried to turn it into new bed sheets. My initial Spannbettlaken torpedoed the whole concept of easily accessible stowage and fridge underneath the mattress which consists of single pieces designed for this very purpose. Thus I wanted to get rid of it and to use individual sheets instead which additionally fit tighter than the wishy-washy Spannbettlaken. The new pattern turns everyone’s brain into chutney for sure. Mission accomplished. After I built improved mosquito nets for my side windows in Dar already, the second sewing project on my list was a big net covering the whole rear door opening. Especially down in the hot and humid valleys and at the coast this will bring valuable, bug-free sleeping air into the car at night. Yippie-ya-yeah, Schweinemücken! The German Tüll was not enough but has been successfully fused with a piece of Janni-Banni’s white mosquito net from Ecuador. An elastic, circumferential rubber band helps applying the final construct by simply sliding if over the thick back door seal when the door is open. Thanks for the somewhat 10 old Singer and high quality Chinese sewing machines here at Mambo View Point I can also report this mission as completed.
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  • Route planning

    December 30, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Nobody wants to join my trip and I am lazy arranging a new Covid test for Kenya. PCR stupidity at its best: Kenya likes to refuse Tanzanian test results because they don’t trust their labs. Wonderful. Let’s see how I manage this challenge without loosing too much valuable time. I am already very, very grumpy because today’s whole daylight is wasted for Kenya’s e-visa application procedure. What a cumbersome system, far from what our beloved bullshit buzzword “digitalisation” might have ever promised. Allegedly, starting from 1st January there are no on-arrival visas issued at the borders any more. It is going to be the end of the world if all visitors have now to solely use this immature online thing :pRead more

  • Pare mountains

    January 1, 2021 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    For so many months I have looked over to South Pare Mountains from the Usambars. They were part of every sundowner and now I finally manage to enter them while taking some back roads towards Kenya. My visa has already been issued on the same day of application (30th). That was fast!
    They are just around the corner but Pare feel very differently than Usambaras. I climb up to Bombo and drop William - a local hitch hiker - there. The view back on Usambaras is spectacular with a severe thunderstorm approaching from the West. The path upwards is extraordinarily fulfilling: steep, narrow, muddy, rocky with low range gears required. I am just about to think "Man, how tricky!" when I see a huge bus in front of me managing this same "heavy shit" with solely rear axle drive. The people up here look differntly and speak some other slang. That's very funny! Also fewer Islamic influence up here. I don't spot any single mosque but some Catholic parishes. Bombo seems to be some kind of boys' heaven having a damn lot of pretty women walking around. I don't know how many times I am about to say "hello" to the ditch ... :-D
    I take my time enjoying the view. There are no suitable camping spots discoverable and I ask in a church for a small lawn to park the car. They give me a ginger beer and send me further down the road to the church in Mpepera which would have even offered a great view into the western valley, was it not that I arrive just after sunset.
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  • Yefuka farm

    January 2, 2021 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Lunch break at the Yefuka farm with Yefuka falls for a bath. Very lovely, shaded campsite. The local owner is a natural doctor and explains a lot about the surroundings. Every plant has its designated purpose here and the family grows very tasty bananas! Yum, yum, weiter geht's.Read more

  • "Pole pole"

    January 2, 2021 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    Hmmpf. There was too much optimism involved after the great pause at Yefuka farm. At around 1430 I have to stop for some roadworks on a new bridge. In march this part of the road has still been in good shape. The temporary detour dam is not usable because after heavy rains it is partly washed away. They have just put new soil on top of the dam and I have to wait "20 minutes" until the caterpillar flattens the ground. After an hour the caterpillar begins its artistic maneuvers and in the middle of the dam one of its hydraulic pipes explodes. Bang!!! Ende Gelände! It blocks the whole path and only motorbikes as well as pedestrians are able to go around. A long waiting begins and after a while the construction site manager asks me if I have some 17, 18 and 19 mm wranches and nuts. They want to swap parts with a second caterpillar. I give them what they desire and watch the other guys preparing the new bridge's base. At 1600 I boil some water for coffee. At 1700 I pitch my camping chair. By now many people arrived on both sides of the river. We wait. I would have driven back the whole road if I hadn't given the construction guys half of my toolbox (actually it's Mario's) and if I had known what 20 African minutes mean in reality. Bsssssss. At 1900 the caterpillar moves again, fixes what had to be fixed and I can cross the river. The guys are pretty grateful for helping them out. I think they did a good job improvising on this issue! Night falls in and just about 1.5 km west of this bloody bridge I drive into the bush. Kenya has to be patient for just another day.Read more

  • Holy Holili

    January 3, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Only customs pending! They accepted my German Covid test certificate and I got the East African Visa (valid also for Uganda). For tourists arriving by plane the Covid test must not be older than 96 hours. But for land border crossers it is valid 14 days. I didn't know that really in advance, just got the hint two days ago and hoped that I can successfully argue my way through even though I outstayed by "a few days". Wanted to be here yesterday but this obviously didn't work out due to the broken bridge. What do we learn again? One, two or three days don't make any difference and calmness always wins. Just play with the people and float with the tide. Mission accomplished.
    This is a wonderful "one stop" border post even though you have two stops. Around holidays and Covid prime time there is nothing going on here. Super easy! I even got assigned my personal clearing agent Anne, a sweet little Kenyan girl. She currently organises insurance, road tax and the carnet papers for me. I should invite her for lunch =)
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  • Chala

    January 3, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    This pending customs thing at the border actually turned out to ruin my day. Somewhat. Apparently the road authority’s computer system was down this Sunday and they tried for around 4 hours to book my foreign vehicle fee into the system, without success. In the end the customs boss let me pass with a handwritten letter which should save my car from being taken by the police at the next road checkpoint. Under one condition: I would have to report to the customs headquarter in Nairobi until the end of the following day. Wtf? I got pretty mad because not that I did not plan to go to Nairobi during Covid prime time at all, I would certainly not want to rush there within one day! Obviously the people here have no understanding for my travelling mode. The customs officer thought she had done me a favour which I did not appreciate and so she got mad as well. Hmmpf. In the end I let her win because the alternative would have been to reverse the whole border procedure and stamp back into Tanzania again. With bad mood I at least went for lunch with my personal clearing agent and earned compliments for being so damn calm and patient. At least! At around 4 pm I left for Lake Chala just around the corner.

    And this is where I’m sitting now being totally flabbergasted! On the map it just looks like some kind of pond but it is spectacular and for sure well underestimated by all travel guide books (I don’t use any). Without googling you see that Chala is a crater lake. You can drive up on top of the rim on Kenyan side and there is barely any touristic infrastructure. At a small wire gate I pay some shillings to the local community and am free to pass. On top of this rim there was a pretty hotel once - until around year 2000 - which is totally taken back by nature now. They say it got abandoned after the owner committed suicide. But you can walk around everywhere and enjoy the astonishing view from endless Tsavo National Park plains over this turquoise-coloured, crystal-clear fresh water reservoir on beautiful Kilimanjaro. The community chief agreed to let me stay over night because continuing now into the night is ridiculous. Especially where this road from Taveta to Oloitokitok is probably the worst in whole Kenya! I search for a suitable flat campsite on the volcanic rim and get three guards which I do not need. But they are nice and build a fire. Dinner: 2 huge bananas and a big mango. In the end I’m very happy having been held back by the customs the whole day. Otherwise, with still a full travel day ahead, I probably would have not stayed here but continued somewhere north. So, let’s prepare for sunrise and a day’s rush to Nairobi!
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  • Things change

    January 4, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I survive the bad road and arrive in Oloitokitok with superb view on the north face of both Kili peaks. After buying a SIM card it is 0930 already. Rushing now to Nairobi on the main roads? Hmm. This is really not what I want! In hope of a better-mooded customs officer today I call her and indeed find a calm, friendly lady on the other side of the line. I politely explain my situation and she understands that re-trying the registration procedure here at the border in Oloitokitok on a Monday could be an option. Yesterday she insisted sending me to Nairobi because she had already talked to the responsible person there and had announced my visit. I drive to the border post, manage to find a friendly customs officer, call the lady again, give the phone to this officer, they clarify everything, I get my pay bill, I am registered in “the system”. Problem solved, Nairobi cancelled, mission accomplished. On leaving Oloitokitok I pass a police control post. They say “Please proceed.” and I say “No! I want to have lunch with you!” They are nice guys, I am hungry and on the opposite building there is written “Police Canteen”. In the backyard two ladies prepare awesome fish with ugali for all police officers ... and for me =)Read more

  • Entering Chyulu

    January 4, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Nairobi cancelled so what now? I could go into Amboseli National Park but as it is labelled “premium park” I somehow loose interest. I would probably see a bunch of animals and the Kili but both I have already enjoyed a lot so far. But what’s this small mountain ridge to the east? Chyulu Hills? Looks interesting, let’s go there! I spend quite a lot of time figuring out how to get into Chyulu Hills National Park from the West. My road maps are not really clear on that and are out of date apparently. I pass some wildlife corridors along the main road from Oloitokitok northwards and ask my way through at Kimana Sanctuary and finally at a police control post in Mbirikani. From here they guide me to take a road which leads directly into the hills and this also complies with my maps but it’s further north then I wanted to go. Coincidence and destiny kick into action and while stopping at a market I get approached by a Maasai who asks for a lift in direction to Chyulu Hills to his village. A beautiful road this is! Through green plains with scarce trees with impalas, hartebeests, wildebeests, thommys and with a view on the now approaching smooth hills. We get stopped by a giraffe road checkpoint. They do not let us pass until having finished drinking from a puddle. Lovely! It turns out that this Maasai works for Big Life Foundation – a non-profit conservancy organisation – and after telling him my plans he guides me directly to the local headquarters into the arms of Richard Bonham, one of the organisation's founders and famous conservationist! He gives me the permission to enter the national park because the main entrance gate is located on the other side in Kibwezi. He also explains very precisely how to get to a superbly located campsite with gorgeous views. I have to hurry in order to reach it before sunset. The road into the hills is wild, bumpy, totally overgrown with high grass, thorny bushes and adventurous! Paradise.Read more

  • Call of Chyulu

    January 6, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I spend two nights and two days in deep green. The main campsite is already occupied by 6 holidayers from England and Sweden in two cars which I did not expect because these hills are supposed to be empty of humans but full of birds, generally smalller animals and some East African cats instead.
    The first day I go for an extensive hike to climb three surrounding summits. I am longing for a western view on Kilimanjaro and indeed find it's snow-covered tip glimpsing through the clouds for a few moments but the rest is just hazy air. The juicily green hills are wonderful! The soil is basically brownish-greyish-black volcanic ash. A variety of grass grows here, especially because it must have burned not too long ago. Half of the day's hike the grass nipple-high and I wonder if I might stumble across hiding predatory animals waiting to rip me apart. So far I have just been warned to stay away from the patches of pristine forest because buffaloes like to hide in there. I encounter just one tiny snake, baboons and an orange-backed monkey and a lonely hartebeest on the opposite hill. Bigger animals are scrace or stay just for a short time because there seems to be no water at all up here. There are many herby bushes around. Just roll a leaf between your fingertips, smell it and drift into tasty dreams! A pollen-saturated bee visits me and licks my sweat frantically. After having been invited for late lunch by the englishified Swedes on my way back we spend the evening together and have a lot of fun!
    The next sunrise is powered by distant growling of a lion coming from the valley north of the campsite. Holy banana! I thought that there are no big cats around here! After breakfast three rangers from Big Life Foundation appear to warn us about apparently two lions not far away. They offer us to walk there and to scare them away. Their most sophisticated equipment consists of GPS devices and short sticks. Very trustworthy :-D Unfortunately the lions seem to have already left the last spot where they have been seen. The others return to Nairobi and I start my 4-wheeled adventure to examine the tracks further south which appear on OpenStreetMap. A wild, bushy "road", difficult to followup because it just consists of vague tracks in high grass and suddenly ends being totally overgrown. Only a foot path continues which is used by Maasai and their cattle. I have to turn back. Hmmpf, ok. Later the rangers tell me that this road has not been used for almost three years. To satisfy my curiosity I then try to find another access road down to the western side of the hills through which I was unsuccessfully trying to get into the hills two days ago. I am indeed successful and arrive in a huge Maasai community down there. Now I can finally update the map! :-) It is just early afternoon and I spontaneously decide to go all the way back up and through the hills to Kibwezi because it is just pure offroad fun driving up there!! The car is incredibly eating every track I'm throwing at it. Low range 2nd gear and you have a rocket on 4 wheels! But a very comfy rocket, so rather a rocket sofa on 4 wheels.
    After passing the Kisula Caves I check out of the park in the East but spend the last night on the headquarters' campsite. So, I entered from the West without a gate and found a different way out to the West without a gate. In the end I could have ended the trip without paying anything but I think it is just fair to support the official conservancy work and all the park infrastructure. Looking back on all the fun I had during these few days it is the least that I can do!
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  • Approaching Yatta Plateau

    January 7, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Supposedly world's longest lava flow originating from Ol Doinyo Sabuk mountain/volcano.

    Actually, you should take a look on a topographic map of Kenya and follow my route there. I already opened a feature request to the FindPenguins guys to at least activate the Google Relief map layer additionally ;-)Read more

  • Athi River

    January 8, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Night falls in and I have to find a campsite. There is no touristic infrastructure around and on the top of the Yatta Plateau every bush is either surrounded by mais fields or cattle and totally stuffed with people. "Spring' über deinen Schatten" tactics have to be activated and instead of searching for a hidden spot I search on the map for at least an environmentally appealing spot, the river side. By incidence I get the look on some wide waterfalls of Athi River while searching for a nice sunset picture. That must be my destination for today! One hour left until it's dark. I drive down into a village, ask for the way. OpenStreetMap contains all bloody paths here but you never know if you can actually drive there. The people around the market are so very friendly and welcoming and recommend a nice place to park the car on an elevated river terrace with great view and incredible night sky. I hear hippo grunts close by at dinner preparation time. Hell yeah!

    The next morning I am invited for a cup of tea at the neighbouring farmer's home. Moses is a lovely person, with 8 kids, all at shool. Together with his wife and two other youngsters - Silver and Eric - we study my big paper map. Afterwards the three guys show me around at the river and waterfalls, explain their irrigation and pipeline constructions and tell me a lot of what is going on here in the villages. Silver has some good knowledge of geography and also studies photography. He is fond of my camera and so I make him responsible for the pictures. At night they have to guard their fields against the scavenging hippos, but the crocs are on the other side of the river. Yes, I also hoped so while I was taking a bath this morning ...
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  • Southern Aberdare Range

    January 8, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Look on a topo map and you will see super interesting, banded hill formations. Crazy! And I drive on one of these ridges right now. The surroundings are densly populated and completely transformed into agricultural land with a lot of coffee and tee. Still very beautiful.Read more

  • Gatamaiyo Forest Nature Reserve

    January 9, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I spend a spontaneous night at the little frequented Theta dam in the middle of the Gatamaiyo Forest Nature Reserve. Beautiful, lonely spot with wonderful ambient noise at night and day. Signs at the reserve's gate state that entering is not allowed but the guards/rangers/soldiers at the gate tell that it is indeed possible to take the road and they even recommend to stay overnight at this dam. Strange place, surrounded by pristine forest but showing this massive human footprint. Also illegal logging is going on as I found many evidence just when entering the forest. While writing this after breakfast I hear at least two big trees falling in the distance. But it turns out that previously this has been partly used as industrial forest. Further up you find Eucalyptus plantations. It is a nature reserve for just around 20 years the locals tell me.Read more

  • Mud maniacs

    January 9, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Another one of these days where plans don't work out as expected. Who the fuck invented plans at all? I have the impression that they actually never work out. Why do we stress ourselves with meaningless plans? Just stop making plans, for Beelzebub's sake.
    Shortly after departure from the dam I meet people in a crappy front-wheel-drive Toyota who got stuck in an impressive mud bath. While I turn my car and pull them out ... there arrives the same model of crappy car from the other side and ... gets stuck as well. Am I stupid? Why do they go here with these shitty cars? Don't they see the mud? What is there to be overseen? Unfortunately the first car's motor died and we could not get it back to life. I am the only one with a recovery rope so I agree to pull them back 10 km out of the forest onto the tarmac road where they can find a mechanic to fix this pile of crap. Oh boy, just don't look into the engine bays of these cars. Everything is improvised. It's a miracle that they manage to run at all.
    After that I drive back into the forest, fly over this mud and continue in direction of the great rift.
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  • Lake Naivasha

    January 11, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I spend two nights at lake Naivasha to recuperate from driving around. Together with lake Baringo, lake Naivasha is the only fresh water lake in the eastern Great Rift Valley in Kenya. The others are shallow alkaline lakes and are listed as World Heritage. The Fisherman's Camp has a designated campsite which is surrounded by a low electric fence in order to keep the hippos outside at night. But I decide to stay on "the wild" side with the hippos. It's nicer there, quieter and hippos are your best friends, of course. On the first night I get very angry because one local visitor scares two hippos with his car, literally pushing them with the car back into the water while using his horn additionally. But without any reason! He just says "You know, they are dangerous!" but they were just grazing at safe distance. Disrespectful idiot.
    One morning I visit Elsamere just around the corner. It was the former house of George and Joy Adamson - protagonists of diverse novels like "Born Free" and famous conservationists. Now it is a lodge and a tiny museum. Everything is kept in lovely original condition and I learn a lot more especially about Joy. Did not know how awesomely she painted flora and Kenya's indigenous tribesmen! A lot of her work is exhibited in Kenya's National Museum. This woman must have been a machine!
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  • Lake Bogoria

    January 12, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    One of the alkaline, shallow lakes in the "Kenya Lake System in the Great Rift Valley". It is supposed to be connected with lakes Nakuru and Elmenteita and is just around 10 metres deep. A few days ago most of the lesser flamingos migrated here from lake Nakuru. What all these lakes - and also the fresh water lakes like Naivasha - have in common is that recently their water levels rose with uncommon rapidity. Many old trees on the shores died and also some of the hot springs at Bogoria are supposed to be flooded by now. Lakeside campsites are just gone! The people think that it might be due to tectonic activity and also due to massive forest disappearance in the catchment areas. But as far as I understood the non-fresh-water lakes are pretty little influenced by "exterior water coming in". Still, deforestation is a big issue and already being tackled by the government by extensive reforestation activities. They should educate people too but the population pressure is so high, the whole landscape is already so damn eroded and overgrazed that I have problems to see any golden future here :-/Read more