Rediscovering Tanganyika

We start early and rush through Dar es Salaam to Mikumi National Park. The traffic could have been worse and we are optimistic to arrive in time for a sunset game drive. It’s the perfect ride to listen to Jonas Jonasson’s audiobook “Der Massai, der in Schweden noch eine Rechnung offen hatte”. Bam! Something big hits the car’s windscreen on Sanda’s side. Arrrr! What the hell was that? No car passed us so it must have flown off from the truck in front of us. Shit. The first huge crack in my windscreen. What a nice start of our adventure 🤪

We manage to enter the park late in the afternoon. Gathering around the huge map at the gate we get the recommendation of a route for our sunset drive from a friendly ranger. I ask about the road conditions and about potentially muddy sections but do not get a clear statement apart from a confirmation that the way back to the campsite should be drivable.

Together with the hazy air, the low sun transforms the landscape into a mystic scenery with vaguely distinguishable hills in the distance. We drive around north-easterly with lowered windows and enjoy the fresh air. What a contrast to the coastal climate! And we made it here within one day! With approaching dusk, we turn back and take the first possible track to the campsite. It turns out to be a bad choice because of muddy stretches, getting deeper and longer the further we go in. We reverse and take the second option further south. Ups, the same situation and it starts to get dark. Not a good idea to continue. Hmm, so, those were meant to be the “drivable routes” which I asked for? Thank you for the advice! We return – nearly back to the gate – and go for the third option which is roughly the direct route to the camp. Bad road as well! I manage to cross the short section of an unfinished drainage channel (with just softly hitting the ground) but directly afterwards the car slides leftwards into deep tire holes from “someone’s previous attempt”. Bam! The car rests on a ridge with its full length from engine to rear axle and all 4 wheels are spinning freely. And it is dark. And we are in the national park. And there are all kinds of “things” around us. This must be living the overlander’s dream!

What next? Sanda wants to mobile-call for the ranger but I want to get dirty first. Haha! Yes, digging with a shovel quickly reveals to become a project for the whole night. The infamous black cotton soil is greasy like soap where it is wet but hard like cement where it is dry. And it is rather dry everywhere around the muddy tire holes. And, when working with a headlamp in swampy surroundings, sufficient protein intake from flying biomass is guaranteed. I give in and we call for the ranger who appears in a Series 70 Land Cruiser with two scouts. Their first idea is to pull me out backwards with a chain. I protest but they seem to be very dedicated in pursuing their plan. To no success. This is definitely not material-friendly, they nearly ripped off my rear towing eye! I convince them to drive around and to retry in the front with my bungee rope instead. Bingo! After two attempts and without further damage they guide us through further deep mud and drop us at the campsite somewhere around midnight. It’s Sanda’s first time on an unfenced campsite in the middle of a national park, surrounded by all evil of her dreams, without any sight of life nor of light. Good night.Læs mere