Spain
Alcaracejos

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    • Day 46

      Day 33: Villaharta to Mina Guillermin

      June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

      Day 33, Villaharta to Mina Guillermin, 16.5km.
      It rained for most of the day, which was good for the countryside around us.
      Leaving Villaharta, we followed the road towards Pozoblanco, then after 2.5km the wet bitumen gave way to wet dirt roads.
      When we came to a fork in the road, the arrows told us to take a path that strangely enough, led us to a makeshift gate, which made us doubt. We carried on anyway, and we were happy to do so. The path, which follows a via pecuaria, even if in places it looked like a rivulet, was magnificent!
      It took us to the ford over the Río Guadalbarbo. The ford was made so that we could cross it even if the water covered the path.
      Our beautiful path led us to an unsealed road. We had to be careful here, as it was a bit slippery. Not slippery for the few ewes that seemed to have escaped from a nearby pen.
      Another fork in the road, and we were on the last three kilometres to our destination. There was no let-up in the rain, and the paths were like streams. A mojón caught in the current didn't budge.
      We finally arrived, soaking wet, at the accommodation offered by Rosa at the Mina Guillermin. In 2021, a forest fire destroyed everything except the house. Rosa and her partner Javier are working to rebuild everything. They are building two wooden cottages that will serve as albergues for pilgrims. For today, they are making one of their rooms available to us, and preparing meals for us. I don't know of any other accommodation for pilgrims where you can dry your clothes and warm up in front of a nice fire!
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    • Day 26

      Mina to Alcaracejos

      February 28 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      We were excited last night to hear that today is a holiday in Andalucia and expected festivities in the town. Unfortunately the celebrations are happening at a place we passed 7km out of town, and we are not going back there!

      Today’s walk was mainly through a pleasant natural area. There were someuneve. Rocky portions which tired our feet. We also needed to cross a wide stream in our sandals. Cold water but quite doable.

      The last 5 km were a bit of a drag along a dirt road with strong headwinds. When we reached town we stopped at a bar for a beer, and to our surprise the Albergue contact showed up and drove us the short distance back to the Albergue, thanks to a phone call from his pal, the bar owner,

      It is a small pleasant Albergue with a sink and microwave but no other cooking facilities. Fortunately there is a restaurant open after 8, and El Contact bar open in the meantime.

      There has been a bottled water advisory in this area since last April, so good that we can buy water at the bar. In Spain, Everything happens at the bar. Of course.

      G: vandaag een korte en makkelijke wandeling, hoewel we grote plassen tegen kwamen waar we ons omheen konden werken. En een rivier waarvoor we onze schoenen moesten uitdoen want de oversteek zonder natte voeten was geen optie. Vandaag is het feest in Andalucia om te vieren dat ze 50? Jaar geleden autonoom waren geworden in Spanje. We verwachtten een dorp vol met festiviteiten. De waarheid was anders, 7 km voor het dorp zagen we allemaal families in een park barbecueën en spelletjes doen. In het dorp zelf was niets te doen, sterker nog, alles was dicht want iedereen was op de party…
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    • Day 47

      Day 34: Mina Guillermin to Alcaracejos

      June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Day 34, from Mina Guillermin to Alcaracejos, 22.9km.
      This stage should have been a little shorter. As we left Mina Guillermin, a bit of blue sky perhaps presaged a fine day ahead. But no, we had showers this morning. All this water, which is good for the farmers, the orchards and the fiels, left large puddles and streams on the paths.
      The San Juan fountain, in the middle of the Villaharta to Alcaracejos stage, is the only drinking water point for those setting off on this long stage.
      The arroyos follow one another, as do the undulations of the road.
      We were warned that there would be a ford, with steppingstones. But with all the water of the last three days, the Río Cuzna has swollen so much that the stones are no longer visible. The water is opaque and full of silt. I try to get through by feeling the stones with my feet, but it's not easy. All it would take is one false step and it would be a disaster. So we decide to turn back and go over the road, where there's a bridge. This diversions will add 4km to the day.
      This gave us the opportunity to pass a few cows, which don't often see pilgrims.
      When we get back on the Camino, it's a path and country roads that take us to Alcaracejos.
      This evening, we spend the night at the Hostal Las Tres Jotas.
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    • Day 21

      When 38 is only 36

      April 28, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      The guides all say that this stage is 38 km. Well, when you are prepared for 38 and the town magically appears a few kms before it’s supposed to, it is a cause for rejoicing!

      Today’s walk was wonderful. Far from cars, through scrub oaks and Jara plants. Once again it looked to me like rain for the first few hours, but none fell. A few water amenities, but I only had to take my boots off once. Late morning, the sun came out, but with a gorgeous cool breeze. To give you an idea of the beautiful temps— my water at 10 am was much colder than when I left the albergue. And even around 1 pm it was still cool!

      There’s a little fiesta in the pueblo. It’s called cruzes de mayo, in which many towns in Andalucia put up a colorful cross in the square, with some decorations all around. Seems like a good opportunity for gathering in the square and drinking more than anything else.

      We are definitely leaving Andalucía behind. More animals (pigs, sheep, cows), more scrub oak. I walked down paths lined on both sides with Jara bushes. In s few days it will be endless explosions of white flowers. Today just some early bloomers were there to welcome me.

      I’ve enjoyed lunch with two Spaniards and one Italian. It’s fun to be back in pilgrim-landia.

      Tomorrow the choices are 20 km or 53 km so I will have a short day. I may be crazy, but I will not try 50+ km!
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    Alcaracejos

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