Spain
Arcos, Los

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    • Day 10

      Los Arcos to Logrono

      August 31 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      Well that was a long one. The walk and this post!!!! Options were 12 miles or 18 plus. No surprise but Connor wanted to push to Logrono, the 18 mile option. Longest walk yet! Literally dragged myself in the night before on our 15 miler to Los Arcos so i was skeptical about 18. A couple of us sent our packs ahead to lighten the load with the extra distance and some climbs at the end. Definitely helped.

      I headed out early. I knew the day was going to be a push for me especially after every other hard day. Connor and i are butting heads only a little but he does not say much to me. I do love seeing him sharing himself with our Camino family but he just has nothing left when we are one on one, go to sleep or wake up. Sometimes i feel very alone. Leaving that particular morning i felt off and very isolated. I was in the middle of nowhere with the clothes on my back, a small fanny pack, a bottle of water and a phone. I think leaving my backpack behind to be sent forward stripped away that last connection to life outside the walk. Got a bit lost, literally and emotionally. Tears for no reason. Finally found the road out of town on the way to Logrono. Put it into high gear. I could make it by 3 if i kept a good pace. Minimal breaks and minimal brakes with no distractions.

      After i had already forward my backpack which commits you to a particular town with all my possessions, Connor started the day with foot pain and was limping badly. I found him on a bench along the way likely questioning his life choices. He said go on he would catch up. I tried to keep walking ahead but it is hard to go ahead when i know he was struggling and i worried. He did not want mom hovering over him. But i slowed way down too. Begged for ibuprofin from an unknown pilgrim for Connor and waked back to push him to take it. Lost the early cool hours and had more distance left in the afternoon heat. Ugh. Connor rallied as i knew he would and blew past the old lady. I did enjoy walking with him a bit and having first breakfast along the way together.

      Sometimes this experience feels so disconnected from my life. This day to Lograno ran the full spectrum. Alone and adrift, back to the reality of parenting someone who is no longer a child but not yet a fully functional independent adult and loving someone so much that it breaks you to see them hurting physically and struggling emotionally. I can’t fix everything anymore but it is important to me that he knows i wish i could and that i will try my best. I think it is important to him for me to know he can take care of himself and these 2 desires exist together somewhat tumultuously.

      The mornings are nice especially if you get an early start and get the miles under your belt before the worst of the heat. I hold up pretty well but dehydration becomes such a factor on shadeless high heat sections. The last 6 miles were full sun, minimal to no shade, hot and hot with no bars or cafes to rest up. It was a push. Reached our beds and crashed. Met friends for snacks and gelato. Lovely Sunday night. The streets in old town were flooded with families, people and kids playing. It was lovey but we only lasted a short time as we both had to lay down.

      Taking a rest day. Need to do laundry. Process my existence. Update this app before i forget everything.
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    • Day 23

      A calm walk to Los Arcos

      April 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Yet another beautiful day…and this time not many ups and downs, just one out of Estella, and one up to Villamayor de Monjardín, otherwise just even walks through these never ending green fields that we have been so wanting to see! Again it was cold, about 6° when we left, and took longer to shed another layer as there were many shaded areas, and also a lovely breeze. But it did get hot by the end, and I realise I have totally misjudged the strength of the sun…I had thought it is early spring, and it is even snowing a bit…but of course the longest day is June, and I have got sunburnt hands and legs, and even lips…I keep using lip balm but it doesn’t have sunscreen in it…I will have a visit to a Farmacia in Logroño and get some strong (and up to date!) sunscreen…

      So today was 22 kms according to Amr’s watch…mine was a bit less (21)…but less demanding, and through such gorgeous countryside…it is the day when leaving Estella we pass the Fuente del Vino where you can get vino (and agua) from the fountain at a monastery winery…not maybe the thing at 8.30am, but you have a sip to set you on your way! Even taking it fairly leisurely we arrived at Los Arcos at about 3 o’clock…so much quicker without hills. Found our hotel (we stayed here last time) and the bags were even in our room! Luxury! Then went to the plaza to have a beer, and found many others there and had a lovely unwind.

      Back to the hotel for downtime before dinner. Our hotel’s restaurant is closed at the moment, and he had directed us to a restaurant across the road. When we investigated at 3.30 it was all very quiet, except the bar, and I wondered if people would be out for dinner, as in the plaza everyone was snacking…so when we wandered over to the restaurant at 7.15 I wondered if we would be dining there alone…well we got there and it was full! We were told to wait, but a lone American saw our predicament and invited us to his table, so we got in…so much for dining alone!! The American was Eddie from San Francisco and was good company…he was the person who took our photo together at the Fuente de Vino in the morning, and we had a good dinner together. (Again €14 for 3 courses, wine and bread). I wanted to have the rabbit, but it had finished sadly…but had a delicious veal stew, starting with the bean soup…Amr had a trout. And we both ended with arroz con leche …yum…

      It is very good..the camaraderie is still there…we are getting to know people, and we all greet each other very comfortably..from many countries. We will lose Eddie probably as he is going straight on from Logroño where we arrive on Friday. There is an Austrian who we meet and greet..he always knows us and calls us Australia and Egypt, and we call him Austria…one day we will find out his name! I am glad the Camino warmth and support continues.
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    • Day 9

      Day 10. Los Arcos

      May 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      A pleasant, short 21 km walk today on natural paths. I had only walked 5 km when I came across a place offering pilgrims as much free wine as they wanted from an outdoor spout. We’re in wine country wine country surrounded by by vineyards and olive groves. It was just 9:00 am , so I only took a sip with a little water - very dry. Shortly after the 5 km point, a fork in the road gave us the option of taking a longer, level route or a shorter, steeper one. We opted for the latter. The two routes came together about 5 kms from Los Arcos, today’s destination. I walked the whole 21 kms accompanied by Thomas, from Germany, who did an excellent job maintaining the conversation in English. He is recently retired, and set a healthy pace. He knew a lot about botany, identifying all the plants and birds as we progressed. The only issue was that he identified the German name for each tree type, so I didn’t learn much. We did spot a few cherry trees along with the sound of a cuckoo bird. I did recognize the many oak and pine trees.
      Thomas and I parted in Los Arcos as he went to a town 5 kms further. I later connected with a group of fellow pilgrims a few hours later in the town square. The first thing I enjoy after a long walking trek is a shower, then the next step is having a beer- just one seems to do the trick. Tonight, I connected with a few Americans, two Danes, an Aussie, and a Kiwi. One American, from Michigan, named Tony, was a real treat. He suddenly decided to do this trip two weeks ago, and when his work refused to give him the time off, he quit, much to his wife’s chagrin, they’re still on speaking terms. According to him , the most important job he does is shop for his wife, and three daughter’s clothes . He had us in stitches with one story after the other. His most endearing quality was his ability to laugh at himself.
      Today was easy, but tomorrow is another story. Many people have foot issues and tomorrow’s distance is 50% longer than today, so I’m hoping for an early start.
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    • Day 35

      Los Arcos

      May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      I left Villamaria at 8.10 a m. And walked through the beautiful fields for the next 13 kms to arrive here in Los Arcos. I tried to get a sense of the very old albergue I stayed in last night with a couple of pics, but they're a bit blurred.
      The rest of the photos today are of the beautiful surroundings as we walked. Jessie I met on the trail, from Colorado, was very kind and shared some time and resources with me. After she walked on she came back to me and put some flowers in my hair, "heart's desire" she said, and she was off again. This is as it happens on the Camino. We are all fleeting companions.
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    • Day 87

      gut begonnen

      October 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      nach einem ausgiebigen frühstück waren die ersten höhenmeter schon wieder in den beinen. navarra ist ein unglaublicher traum; die weiten mit den bergen, den dörfern könnten nicht schöner gemalt sein. nach etwas über 40 kilometern sind wir in los arcos angekommen, welche eine gotische kathedrale hat. das albergo, welches wir vorreserviert haben und auch das einzige ist, welches hunde erlaubt, ist eine völlige bruchbude. aber da es ja am pilgerweg liegt, kann man auch für das geld verlangen. wir sind dann direkt wieder an die planung der nächsten unterkunft gegangen und haben nach 4 stunden suchen und telefonieren aufgegeben. zuerst einmal etwas warmes essen und dann weiterschauen. wir haben nun 2 optionen, welche aber noch offen sind. morgen werden wir weitersehen. es wird immer wie schwieriger, mit 4 kindern und vor allem mit dem hund etwas zu finden. und auch das wochenende - es gibt sogar wochenend-pilgerer - gibt es vermehrt schwierigkeiten, etwas zu finden. wir sind positiv gestimmt und schauen weiter.Read more

    • Day 10 - Estella to Los Arcos - 23km

      September 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      My feet are so tired! I am in Los Arcos after almost 24km.

      I started out this morning around 7am and it was still dark. That was ok as we were walking through the city first. It was very hard leaving the albergue in Estella. I kept touching the walls to feel Jörg. I had a very strong urge to hug the building but I didn’t.

      Just outside of Estella is the famous fountain that dispenses wine. Even though it was only 8 in the morning, I still filled up my shell and drank from it. The shell I am carrying this trip is actually Jörg’s shell from 2009.

      The first 10km went pretty quickly. It was variable terrain and lots of shade so it was pretty good. I stopped at Villamayor de Monjardin. It was a place where Jörg and I stayed overnight in 2009. I visited the albergue and stopped and had lunch there.

      After that, the next 12 km was mostly gravel road and very little shade. I decided to put on my headset and listen to some music to get through it. At one point, the song “Country Roads” came on and I started to cry. It was the words “Country roads, take me home, to a place, where I belong ...” that hit me. I was crying because I feel like don’t have a home. Jörg was my home. Jörg was the place where I belonged. There is nowhere for those country roads to take me, but to just wander.

      At about the 16km mark there was a food truck tucked in some trees. They were offering food including Hagen daze ice cream, what a treat. When I approached to order, they asked me if I was Canadian. I said yes, and they gave me a Canadian flag pin. It turns out the owner is a Canadian from the Vancouver Area. Just when I was feeling like I didn’t have a home, and felling a little lost in this foreign country where I don’t speak the language, I was suddenly special because I was Canadian. Perfect timing.

      About 3km from the end, there was some more shade and some benches so I took the opportunity to rest again. My feet are tired and there are some blisters on my toes. The blisters aren’t too bad, just the tired feet.

      I have been reading my old journal from 2009 and it almost always starts with “I am in pain, back, ankle, calf ...”. I am really surprised that I only have tired muscles, no real pain. I was getting a type of burning in my left quad, but one night I did some major rolling on the area and it is no longer bothering me for now. I think the slow start was the best thing for me.

      I am in Los Arcos and the albergue is full. It was full when I arrived, but I had called yesterday to reserve. It really is crazy these days about the reserving. Tomorrow I plan to stop before Logroño, so it may not be so bad, but I have a reservation for Viana anyway. She says it is reserved until 2pm. Often people reserve a couple spots and then just cancel if they get something else, and just take the loss. The problem is, someone else who wanted that spot was told it was full and walked away. There’s got to be a better system.

      I am thinking about food now, but my feet are so tired, and it is about 2 blocks away ... I guess I better go.

      TTYL
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    • Day 9

      7. Etappe nach Los Arcos

      March 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Die zweite Hälfte von Lequín nach Los Arcos verging wie im Fluge. Die Strecke ist aber auch gut zu gehen und immer dieser Fernblick. Wenn dann noch die Sonne rauskommt... was kann ich mir mehr wünschen. Es war nichtmal 13 Uhr und ich war die erste in der Herberge 😅

      Hatte auch kurz überlegt weiter zu gehen. Aber zum einen wollte ich meine neugewonnene Energie vom Pausentag nicht gleich am ersten Tag gleich aufbrauchen. Zum anderen habe ich meine Periode vorletzte Nacht bekommen und habe noch leichte Unterleibschmerzen. Also 19km heute und ein freier Nachmittag. Morgen geht's weiter 😇🥰
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    • Day 36

      Los Arcos to Vienna to Logrona

      September 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      I cut a long walking day into 2 short ones in hopes of saving my feet, but that was all in vain as I hobbled into the large city of Logrona on blistered and bloodied feet. I checked into the first hotel with a bathtub and gave them a good soaking (along with all my clothes!) I'll be here 2 days as they heal...giving them lots of TLC!Read more

    • Day 14

      Day 10: Los Arcos to Viana

      May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

      Mileage: 13 miles? Guidebook says about 12, Garmin says 14
      Elevation gain: 1,401
      Elevation loss: 1,230
      Total mileage: 96.5

      I wasn’t sure that my feet would ever function again at the end of yesterday’s walk, but somehow they felt pretty good this morning. A beautiful sunny, cool morning turned into a warm sunny afternoon as we continued to walk up and down the hills. The scenery continues to amaze. We’re starting to recognize quite a few fellow pilgrims who seem to be on the same schedule as us. Tonight we’re in an albergue (hostel) with many people. I think the earplugs will come in handy again!

      1. Iglesia de Santa Maria in Los Arcos
      2. Yes, more
      3. Lots of impressive mountains in the distance.
      4. The village of Torres del Rio
      5. Many of the steeper slopes, especially near towns, are paved like this. You see the paving stones and know it’s about to get steep!
      6. I like the post horn symbol the national mail service uses
      7. Lots of vineyards today. This one reminded me of a Van Gogh painting with all of the crooked trunks. (Vines? Roots?)
      8. We passed several wild cherry trees with ripe fruit today. My family knows how very happy this made me!
      9. The weather was nice but there were So! Many! Gnats! today. They really loved Angela!
      10. Ruins of la Iglesia de San Pedro in Viana. We had cheap but delicious beers and snacks at a table quite near here in perfect weather. Great ending to the day.
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    • Day 10

      Stage 6: to Los Arcos

      September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      We had a bit of a head start today because our hotel was on the way out of Estella. We walked with our two new friends, Gail and David, whom you'll see in the photos but probably wouldn't guess is 75 and has walked about a dozen Camino routes.

      The first notable landmark of today's stage is the Fuente del Vino, where the Bodega Irache offers pilgrims a free shell-full of wine for the route ahead. Alas, the tap didn't open till 8 a.m. so we settled for our water.

      We then opted for the less traveled route today, which went through woods and fields and had more modest climbs. We caught breakfast (either the usual potato and egg tortilla or an omelette on a slice of grainy bread) in Luquin at 10 am-ish, where we noted that the trio of Spaniards who always seem to pass us, whistling and humming as they speed past, had fortified themselves with beer and wine. So now we know their secret! Other encounters today included an Australian couple with a 10-month old. The baby either rides on his dad's back or in a sack on mom as she breastfeeds, which she's had to do hourly!

      We arrived in Los Arcos at lunchtime and appreciated the receiving line of goats, chickens and geese that greeted us. Lots of pilgrims gathered at Plaza Santa Maria, just outside the incredibly ornate 12th century church that anchors the town. Our crew enjoyed a *Radler*, which is a refreshing combo of beer and lemonade, and traded contact info as we parted ways. Strange to feel sad saying goodbye to people you have only known 24 hours but you get to know them well in such a short, quality period of time.

      Our hotel is another beautiful rustic house and we have enjoyed just resting in our room while waiting for dinner at 7. It's far enough from the Camino that the owner had to pick us up by the plaza and will deliver us back tomorrow after breakfast. Tomorrow will be a long 17-mile day to Logrono (another reason we said goodbye to Gail and David, both of whom are stopping short of there for their next stays). But the time passes quickly as we meet and talk to so many great people.
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