Spain
Arcos, Los

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    • Day 9

      Day 10. Los Arcos

      May 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      A pleasant, short 21 km walk today on natural paths. I had only walked 5 km when I came across a place offering pilgrims as much free wine as they wanted from an outdoor spout. We’re in wine country wine country surrounded by by vineyards and olive groves. It was just 9:00 am , so I only took a sip with a little water - very dry. Shortly after the 5 km point, a fork in the road gave us the option of taking a longer, level route or a shorter, steeper one. We opted for the latter. The two routes came together about 5 kms from Los Arcos, today’s destination. I walked the whole 21 kms accompanied by Thomas, from Germany, who did an excellent job maintaining the conversation in English. He is recently retired, and set a healthy pace. He knew a lot about botany, identifying all the plants and birds as we progressed. The only issue was that he identified the German name for each tree type, so I didn’t learn much. We did spot a few cherry trees along with the sound of a cuckoo bird. I did recognize the many oak and pine trees.
      Thomas and I parted in Los Arcos as he went to a town 5 kms further. I later connected with a group of fellow pilgrims a few hours later in the town square. The first thing I enjoy after a long walking trek is a shower, then the next step is having a beer- just one seems to do the trick. Tonight, I connected with a few Americans, two Danes, an Aussie, and a Kiwi. One American, from Michigan, named Tony, was a real treat. He suddenly decided to do this trip two weeks ago, and when his work refused to give him the time off, he quit, much to his wife’s chagrin, they’re still on speaking terms. According to him , the most important job he does is shop for his wife, and three daughter’s clothes . He had us in stitches with one story after the other. His most endearing quality was his ability to laugh at himself.
      Today was easy, but tomorrow is another story. Many people have foot issues and tomorrow’s distance is 50% longer than today, so I’m hoping for an early start.
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    • Day 35

      Los Arcos

      May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      I left Villamaria at 8.10 a m. And walked through the beautiful fields for the next 13 kms to arrive here in Los Arcos. I tried to get a sense of the very old albergue I stayed in last night with a couple of pics, but they're a bit blurred.
      The rest of the photos today are of the beautiful surroundings as we walked. Jessie I met on the trail, from Colorado, was very kind and shared some time and resources with me. After she walked on she came back to me and put some flowers in my hair, "heart's desire" she said, and she was off again. This is as it happens on the Camino. We are all fleeting companions.
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    • Day 12

      Walking Through the Fields to Los Arcos

      September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      One of our first stops on our drizzly, 14km walk this morning was a little town Villamayor de Monjardin. There was a church with a big steeple bell. It reminded me that we learned from other pilgrims that the bells we are hearing from the churches along the Camino are not real bells. They are recorded bell chimes that are sent out over a loud speaker....kind of disappointing! I didn't want to believe that is was true, but this morning when the bells rang & I watched, there was no movement at all by the bells. Our walk was pretty uneventful, lots of brown pastures. We did see hills that had been burned by the forest fires this summer.

      The highlight of the day was running into Patsy & Kevin. They were the first friends we made on this adventure back when we all were in Paris waiting to board the TGV. It has been 3 days since we have crossed paths with them and we rjust happened to run into each other as they were ending their day in Los Arcos. They are also staying at the same hotel we are tonight.
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    • Day 87

      gut begonnen

      October 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      nach einem ausgiebigen frühstück waren die ersten höhenmeter schon wieder in den beinen. navarra ist ein unglaublicher traum; die weiten mit den bergen, den dörfern könnten nicht schöner gemalt sein. nach etwas über 40 kilometern sind wir in los arcos angekommen, welche eine gotische kathedrale hat. das albergo, welches wir vorreserviert haben und auch das einzige ist, welches hunde erlaubt, ist eine völlige bruchbude. aber da es ja am pilgerweg liegt, kann man auch für das geld verlangen. wir sind dann direkt wieder an die planung der nächsten unterkunft gegangen und haben nach 4 stunden suchen und telefonieren aufgegeben. zuerst einmal etwas warmes essen und dann weiterschauen. wir haben nun 2 optionen, welche aber noch offen sind. morgen werden wir weitersehen. es wird immer wie schwieriger, mit 4 kindern und vor allem mit dem hund etwas zu finden. und auch das wochenende - es gibt sogar wochenend-pilgerer - gibt es vermehrt schwierigkeiten, etwas zu finden. wir sind positiv gestimmt und schauen weiter.Read more

    • Day 9

      Etappe 6 - Los Arcos 2

      September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Zu den Sehenswürdigkeiten in Los Arcos gehört die Iglesia de Santa Maria am zentralen Platz gelegen. Hier kann ich nur einige Eindrücke wiedergeben.
      Zum Abschluss des heutigen Tages fand noch eine Messe mit Segnung der Pilger statt. Auch wenn in spanisch gehalten und viele von uns Pilgern kaum oder nichts verstehen war es beeindruckend und ging unter die Haut.Read more

    • Day 10

      Etappe 7 - Logrono 1

      September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

      Sternenhimmel hat heute früh ab kurz vor sechs Uhr meinen Weg begleitet. Er führte erneut durch Weinberge, in welchen bereits bei Dunkelheit Wein mir großen Maschinen geerntet wurde.
      Ca. 36 km zurückgelegt. Damit sind von rund 900 km bereits 211 km bewältigt. Erscheint mir derzeit bei 7 Etappen viel, aber mein Schrittzähler sagt es mir.
      Insgesamt seit 12.09. sind es nun rund 235 km welche die Füße zurücklegen mussten. Fußpflege ist das A und O dieser Pilgerfahrt.
      Anbei auch das Pilgergebet, welches gestern zur Pilgermesse überreicht wurde.
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    • Day 10 - Estella to Los Arcos - 23km

      September 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      My feet are so tired! I am in Los Arcos after almost 24km.

      I started out this morning around 7am and it was still dark. That was ok as we were walking through the city first. It was very hard leaving the albergue in Estella. I kept touching the walls to feel Jörg. I had a very strong urge to hug the building but I didn’t.

      Just outside of Estella is the famous fountain that dispenses wine. Even though it was only 8 in the morning, I still filled up my shell and drank from it. The shell I am carrying this trip is actually Jörg’s shell from 2009.

      The first 10km went pretty quickly. It was variable terrain and lots of shade so it was pretty good. I stopped at Villamayor de Monjardin. It was a place where Jörg and I stayed overnight in 2009. I visited the albergue and stopped and had lunch there.

      After that, the next 12 km was mostly gravel road and very little shade. I decided to put on my headset and listen to some music to get through it. At one point, the song “Country Roads” came on and I started to cry. It was the words “Country roads, take me home, to a place, where I belong ...” that hit me. I was crying because I feel like don’t have a home. Jörg was my home. Jörg was the place where I belonged. There is nowhere for those country roads to take me, but to just wander.

      At about the 16km mark there was a food truck tucked in some trees. They were offering food including Hagen daze ice cream, what a treat. When I approached to order, they asked me if I was Canadian. I said yes, and they gave me a Canadian flag pin. It turns out the owner is a Canadian from the Vancouver Area. Just when I was feeling like I didn’t have a home, and felling a little lost in this foreign country where I don’t speak the language, I was suddenly special because I was Canadian. Perfect timing.

      About 3km from the end, there was some more shade and some benches so I took the opportunity to rest again. My feet are tired and there are some blisters on my toes. The blisters aren’t too bad, just the tired feet.

      I have been reading my old journal from 2009 and it almost always starts with “I am in pain, back, ankle, calf ...”. I am really surprised that I only have tired muscles, no real pain. I was getting a type of burning in my left quad, but one night I did some major rolling on the area and it is no longer bothering me for now. I think the slow start was the best thing for me.

      I am in Los Arcos and the albergue is full. It was full when I arrived, but I had called yesterday to reserve. It really is crazy these days about the reserving. Tomorrow I plan to stop before Logroño, so it may not be so bad, but I have a reservation for Viana anyway. She says it is reserved until 2pm. Often people reserve a couple spots and then just cancel if they get something else, and just take the loss. The problem is, someone else who wanted that spot was told it was full and walked away. There’s got to be a better system.

      I am thinking about food now, but my feet are so tired, and it is about 2 blocks away ... I guess I better go.

      TTYL
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    • Day 9

      Day 9: Los Arcos

      September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

      It was a chilly 49 degrees Fahrenheit when we left Estella this morning, so we were especially appreciative of the coffees and chocolate pastries we had for breakfast in Ayegui soon after we started walking.

      A little while later, Allan picked up on the hum of an ultralight aircraft and snapped a photo of it above the trees.

      About 40 minutes later, we arrived at the Irache wine fountain, where pilgrims were lining up to sample—or more liberally partake—in the free wine that pumps from a spigot in the wall.

      After waiting our turn, I pumped enough for a good luck sip for each of us. At 9 a.m. it was about all we could contend with!

      From Irache the Camino twisted and turned until we ascended to the tiny village of Azqueta.

      Not long after, we could see the church spire in Villamayor de Monjardín and the ruins of a medieval castle on the steep peak above it.

      After Villamayor de Monjardín, verdant fields of grape laden vines broke up the yellow slopes. We sat on a rocky ledge near one to eat a light lunch of paté and bread that we’d bought at a grocery store across from our hostal last night.

      After lunch, we had about another 10 kilometers to go to reach Los Arcos. The vistas were expansive, with little shade along the way. We noticed huge stacks of baled hay in more than one field.

      When we reached Los Arcos around 2 p.m. we could hear some geese honking along the road.

      Another 8 minutes or so of walking the narrow streets and we reached tonight’s lodging: El Albergue Municipal Isaac Santiago. At 8 euros per bed, this is our most inexpensive and basic lodging so far.

      We checked in before most bunks were filled, and seized the opportunity to take hot showers and get our dirty clothes washed and dried.

      I put my name on a sheet for a full body massage (30 euros), and was told the masseuse comes around 5-ish, so I’ll be heading downstairs for that soon. After that, hopefully we can find something to eat in town.

      Today we walked about 21 1/2 kilometers. Tomorrow we’ll walk 27 kilometers to Logroño, our longest walk so far.
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    • Day 14

      Day 10: Los Arcos to Viana

      May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

      Mileage: 13 miles? Guidebook says about 12, Garmin says 14
      Elevation gain: 1,401
      Elevation loss: 1,230
      Total mileage: 96.5

      I wasn’t sure that my feet would ever function again at the end of yesterday’s walk, but somehow they felt pretty good this morning. A beautiful sunny, cool morning turned into a warm sunny afternoon as we continued to walk up and down the hills. The scenery continues to amaze. We’re starting to recognize quite a few fellow pilgrims who seem to be on the same schedule as us. Tonight we’re in an albergue (hostel) with many people. I think the earplugs will come in handy again!

      1. Iglesia de Santa Maria in Los Arcos
      2. Yes, more
      3. Lots of impressive mountains in the distance.
      4. The village of Torres del Rio
      5. Many of the steeper slopes, especially near towns, are paved like this. You see the paving stones and know it’s about to get steep!
      6. I like the post horn symbol the national mail service uses
      7. Lots of vineyards today. This one reminded me of a Van Gogh painting with all of the crooked trunks. (Vines? Roots?)
      8. We passed several wild cherry trees with ripe fruit today. My family knows how very happy this made me!
      9. The weather was nice but there were So! Many! Gnats! today. They really loved Angela!
      10. Ruins of la Iglesia de San Pedro in Viana. We had cheap but delicious beers and snacks at a table quite near here in perfect weather. Great ending to the day.
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    • Day 10

      Stage 6: to Los Arcos

      September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      We had a bit of a head start today because our hotel was on the way out of Estella. We walked with our two new friends, Gail and David, whom you'll see in the photos but probably wouldn't guess is 75 and has walked about a dozen Camino routes.

      The first notable landmark of today's stage is the Fuente del Vino, where the Bodega Irache offers pilgrims a free shell-full of wine for the route ahead. Alas, the tap didn't open till 8 a.m. so we settled for our water.

      We then opted for the less traveled route today, which went through woods and fields and had more modest climbs. We caught breakfast (either the usual potato and egg tortilla or an omelette on a slice of grainy bread) in Luquin at 10 am-ish, where we noted that the trio of Spaniards who always seem to pass us, whistling and humming as they speed past, had fortified themselves with beer and wine. So now we know their secret! Other encounters today included an Australian couple with a 10-month old. The baby either rides on his dad's back or in a sack on mom as she breastfeeds, which she's had to do hourly!

      We arrived in Los Arcos at lunchtime and appreciated the receiving line of goats, chickens and geese that greeted us. Lots of pilgrims gathered at Plaza Santa Maria, just outside the incredibly ornate 12th century church that anchors the town. Our crew enjoyed a *Radler*, which is a refreshing combo of beer and lemonade, and traded contact info as we parted ways. Strange to feel sad saying goodbye to people you have only known 24 hours but you get to know them well in such a short, quality period of time.

      Our hotel is another beautiful rustic house and we have enjoyed just resting in our room while waiting for dinner at 7. It's far enough from the Camino that the owner had to pick us up by the plaza and will deliver us back tomorrow after breakfast. Tomorrow will be a long 17-mile day to Logrono (another reason we said goodbye to Gail and David, both of whom are stopping short of there for their next stays). But the time passes quickly as we meet and talk to so many great people.
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    Arcos, Los

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