Spain
Campo de San Francisco

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    • Day 21–25

      Oviedo, Asturias, Spain

      November 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      It's rainy and a bit dreary now that we moved east to Asturias, but I don't mind. It's in the low to mid 50's F and we scored a huge apartment not far from the bus and train stations. Alfonso, our host, even picked us up at the front! Now that's service. After our tiny apartmtent in Santiago, we're ecstatic about the space and it cost a mind-boggling $60 or so per night.

      Our bus here took 4 1/2 hours and was one of the nicest buses I've been on. It was a "Supra" bus on Alsa lines. It didn't seem to cost much more than the others, but it had 3 leather seats across and was more like a first class plane experience, with lots of movies to choose from on the way. There was even a screen showing the speed of the bus, the location on the map, and the ETA, just like on a plane.

      We arrived at night, but set out right away to get some provisions and even made it to a local Vermouth tapas bar down the street. Americans usually only use vermouth in dry martinis, but we discovered the joy of Spanish Vermouth in Madrid and Malaga a few years ago. It's sweeter and served from barrels and with ice. We opted for glasses of Rioja and Alberinho wines this time with a light dinner of garlic Langostinos in olive oil. I was still pretty full from our last meal in Santiago. They're known for their meats and for the first time on the trip, we didn't have any seafood. We ordered a recommended meat plate for two to split. Even then, it was too much but it was a churrasco of various pork cuts. Six hours later, a couple of delicious shrimpys was all I needed.

      There's not a lot of tourism here, especially in November, and that might be why I like it. It's just locals going about their day. I think Oviedo is about the same size as Madison, but there are hundreds of 6-12 story buildings everywhere. Deanne's fighting a cold, so I walked out today solo and hit the Fine Arts museum. There's a great collection of Spanish work, and I especially loved the 2 rooms of Sorolla's. There's a new wing built on to two connected palaces. It was easy and fun to get lost in there.

      Outside, I saw that they're putting the finishing touches on their Christmas market in two locations. And I got a haircut. There's no shortages of barbers and hair stylists here. I walked by about 8 on the way to the barber I found online and then saw at least 5 more walking later. And I'm just in the center, not far from the old town. I like how the city is laid out. It's mostly modern with wide streets and boulevards. That's totally different from what we've seen on this trip so far.

      Deanne felt better by the next day, so we did the day trip to Gijon. Today is now our last full day here and we spent it just walking around in a light rain and enjoying the sights, which is pedestrian shopping streets, a beautiful central park, lots of statues including a Botero, and lots of amazing architecture. I took Deanne back to the museum and enjoyed it just as much the 2nd time. We found a nice local restaurant and ordered the set menus for $13 Euros. It was four courses and one included the Fabada, the amazing bean and sausage dish I had yesterday in Gijon. It was even better today! Once again, we're so full from these set late lunches that we just snack at home for dinner. We have not adjusted to going out to dinner at or after 9 pm. We're not even hungry by then.

      It's been a great town to just chill out in. We love it. But tomorrow we take an express bus to Bilbao after passing right through Cantabria. Bilbao is in Basque Country and we plan on going to the famous Guggenheim museum there and enjoying the sights in the Casco Viejo, or old town.

      More photos and videos are here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/XPMBrjztokMoUN8y8
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    • Day 7

      Oviedo

      July 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Quando chegámos a Oviedo estacionámos o carro no hotel e fomos passear.

      Fomos ver a zona velha, onde havia também uma Catedral, entrámos no museu arqueológico que é num antigo convento, comprámos muitos enchidos e queijos e passeámos um pouco!

      Para jantar comemos um _____ e bebemos sidra das Astúrias, que sabe muito mal 😬😬

      À noite voltámos para o hotel e fomos dormir.

      O pequeno almoço tinha favos de mel para as pessoas tiraram!
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    • Day 77

      Oviedo

      June 16, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Oviedo präsentiert sich uns in stralendem Sonnenschein. Nach dem ersten Kaffe mitten in der Altstadt geht Frau Bünzli auf Bikinijagt.
      Zu wenig Stoff, zu bunt, falscher Schnitt,...
      Dabei kann man ja mal das Wetter aus den Augen verlieren.
      Mit dem passenden Bikini in der Tasche flüchten wir ins nächste Restaurant. Das Gewitter ist wohl auch für Spanier nicht alltäglich und lässt die Strassen unter einer weissen Decke verschwinden.
      Zum Glück ist Peti nicht Wasserscheu. Trocken bringt er uns am Abend bis vor die Tore von Gijon, wo wir die tolle Aussicht auf die Stadt geniessen.
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    • Day 507

      Oviedo

      October 25, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      After several days of experiencing Spanish safaris and mountains, we felt it was time for some city life, so we set off for Oviedo, the capital of the Asturias region.

      Our base for a few days was in an aire in a residential area, a 15 minute bus ride from the city. Whilst not the most picturesque place, it was safe, allowed us to 'flush & fill', had a supermarket and other shops opposite for reprovisioning and a laundry close by too.

      Our time in Oviedo was spent walking around the pretty old town, visiting the market and finding out about the local specialities of fabada (a white bean, black sausage and chorizo stew), Cabrales, a strong, creamy blue cheese and cider and we enjoyed the free admission to the excellent Museum of Fine Art to check out some paintings by Picasso and Dali, as well as the Archaeological Museum to learn about the history of the region.
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    • Sidra... and horreos

      June 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      We’re in Asturias province, where the specialty drink is sidra, a cider made from crabapples. We’ve seen a lot of restaurants that advertise sidra and the foods that go with it. It’s about 6% alcohol, and the label on the bottle carries information on where it comes from and when it was bottled, just like a bottle of wine.

      What’s most unique about it is the presentation. It’s supposed to be poured from over your head, and you hold the glass down low to catch the stream from the bottle... oh well, just see the video below!

      In Asturias and Galicia, you see hórreos everywhere. They’re above-ground graneries of wood or stone, set on pillars. Many of them are in bad shape, but more are still being used for corn, grain or other storage. Here are a few pics.
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    • Day 10

      Oviedo

      August 4, 2020 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Cumpleaños de Olatz! La más bonita de este mundo cumple 29! Despertamos en la ciudad asturiana con el único fin de tomar un buen desayuno, para ello, nos acercamos hasta el mercado El Fontán, centro de la ciudad, y frente a el encontramos nuestro destino, "La Valentina". Bizcochos, tostadas, cruasanes, pintxos... ¡todo estaba muy rico!. Después de coger fuerzas damos un paseo por la ciudad y compramos 4 libros jejejeRead more

    • Day 23

      Oviedo

      14 minutes ago in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Day 23 Oviedo
      I've been humming and hahing about tomorrow's decision, a silly amount of energy spent on a simple -doesn't-even-really-matter question, namely whether to continue on the Norte route (which I declared my intention to do a couple of days ago) or to start the Primitivo. Most of the issue was to do with how to best use the week that Luca will be here at the end of the month. Inspired by Petra, (German, sharing a twin room tonight) I have chosen to do the 'O Camiño dos Faros' with him, which takes 8 days and follows the north west coast of Galicia, past its many lighthouses as the name suggests. A perfect path to do in the time we will have together. https://www.caminodosfaros.com/

      So, with so much coastline ahead with Luca, I have now decided-decided to walk the most mountainous, most remote, most natural (fewest made up paths) and arguably most challenging Camino. Starting tomorrow. Take a look at the map: I've followed the green route so far, to the tip of the triangle where it meets a yellow and a pink line. The Norte continues northwards (duh) with quite a lot more coast before turning down towards Santiago; the Primitivo, in yellow, goes directly through the hills and joins with the 'Frances' (pink) for a couple of days before Santiago.

      Oviedo is a super city, grand, smart, beautifully laid out, although it was a very long hot horrid noisy trafficky road into the centre. The city festival this weekend made exploring the streets all the more interesting, especially the many stalls with artisan foods and crafts, and local music performances. Lots of free cheese and meat samples!
      I didn't pay to enter the cathedral, but the Iglesia de San Isidoro El Real provided enough overblown decorative intricacy, glorified Madonna statuary and dead Jesuses to satisfy me for another long while. Isn't the icon with the three hands sweet though?

      I wondered today about how I usually make decisions, and how some things are perhaps best left to routine ... the simplicity of the daily process here is a relief: every day all I have to do is get up and go out, making sure I have enough food and water to keep me healthy. Arrive, wash, eat, sleep, repeat.
      I'm not as routinised usually, especially when there is no appointment to get up early for. I like spontaneity and flexibility, very much. But it can become lazy, so that I end up with a slowest, easiest, less challenging, more indulgent outcome. Mightn't it help me to be regular, a bit more consistent? To not have to make a decision about the ordinary things again and again, but let a daily rhythm carry me? Living alone for a lot of the last 3 years has really shown up my inertia, and my previous reliance on the comfortable assumptions that develop in shared living. Do you know what I'm on about? I don't have answers. Just a wish to be simpler, to be content, to be free.
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