Spain
Celeiró

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    • Day 23

      Linares

      May 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Was für ein Tag 😳😍🤯🥶🌧️🌩️👣

      In der Nacht gab es ein herliches heftiges Gewitter und unter dem Dach in der Rumpelkammer bei Blitz 🌩 und Donner und Regengeprassel im kuscheligen Schlafsack und im Trockenem. Aber ein Gespenst 👻 gab's nicht 😂

      Um halb sieben gings los und nach ca 150 Metern gab es gleich schon die erste Pause 🤭🤭 juhuuuuuuuuu Kaffee und Frühstück und nen gepressten Orangensaft und die ersten zwei offiziellen 🏳️‍🌈 am Rucksack zu erkennen 😂😂😂

      Um kurz nach sieben bin ich dann aber wirklich endlich los und es ging im Tal hauptsächlich an der Straße entlang aber um einen nur Berge. Bin mal wieder einfach planlos losgestöckelt und kam gegen Mittag schon bei der empfohlenen Tagesetappe nach 22,9 km an. Da noch ein Eis gekauft und unwissend weiter.

      Tja und dann ging es bergauf und bergauf und steil bergauf und voller Motivation als es dann mal gerade vorwärts ging, war ich gefühlt der Held den Berg geschafft zu haben.

      Und dann gings richtig hoch und höher und 16kg aufm Rücken und höher und es hörte gar nicht mehr auf. 🥵 Es ging von 900 Höhenmeter auf 1300.😱😱😱. 8,3 km

      Der einzige Vorteil war dass es durch den Wald ging und ich weichen Boden wenigstens hatte, endlich kaum mal Steine. Aber heute war echt anstrengend und dann mal Sonne, Regenkleidung aus, dann Regen, Regenkleidung an und dann wurde es immer kälter und windiger. Zwei Shirts völlig verschwitzt und brrrrr 🥶🥶🥶.

      Und dennoch war es schön es geschafft zu haben und vor allem die Eindrücke der Landschaft. Waaaaaahnsinn!!!! 😍😍😍

      Ich hab dann sehnsüchtig aufs nächste Dorf gehofft und vor allem mit Herberge. Und tatsächlich in nem Dorf mit 5 Häusern war eins ne Herberge 🥳🥳🥳 und nem Bett. 🥳🥳🥳

      Und ner Waschmaschine

      Restaurant gibt's nicht aber ich habe zum Glück noch was zum mampfen im Rucksack.

      Ansonsten muss es morgen wohl mal zur Abwechslung wieder etwas bergab gehen 🤔

      Dürfte jetzt so ca noch 160 km bis Santiago haben + nach Finesterre und dann kommt wohl bald die Realität zurück 🤢🤢🤢

      Vielleicht bleib ich einfach hier 🤔 oder ich fahr nochmal nach Saint Jean Pied de Port zurück und lauf noch 😂😂😂😂

      Das Leben könnte so schön sein...... Deswegen muss sich jetzt mal was verändern. 😉
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    • Day 30

      Dinner

      June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Ok laugh all you want....
      So this Linares where we are is a SERIOUS hole in the wall
      There is no restaurant here...but we can still drink beer...
      And there is a grocery store...so...got what we can
      And there you have it
      The finest food that Spain can offer 😋
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    • Day 35

      Liñares

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      Today was supposed to be a very challenging 2500+ foot climb which was going to be a challenge, but it turns out the hill wasn’t the big challenge of the day. We started out about 7am which would mean hiking in the dark for an hour and a half as the day awoke. All good so far…

      The first section was full headlights along a very quiet mountain road with only a couple of cars. The locals are pretty used to this but likely think we are crazy. As the sky started to lighten, we realized we were in a magical green countryside with cows eating in quiet fields and super quaint villages. We grabbed our classic Spanish breakfast at a stone albergue and then started the climb. Yes, it was steep but it was a walk through a wonderland of deep green forests with moss and fern laden stone walls lining the way. The path continued to a ridge with a small church at the top. It was absolutely one of the best days of hiking in my life.

      From here, there was a few miles to the summit and the village of O’Cebreiro with nine remaining pallozas, or round houses. They are thought to be over 1000 years old. A very special place.

      I was amazed at the ease of our climb today. Either over a month of hiking has conditioned us, or the fact that we found our first switchbacks in Spain made the climb seem easier than anticipated. I just imagine some young whipper snapper Galician engineer, trying to prove himself, say “why go straight up the hill? Some switchbacks could save energy!” That’s my thought anyway 😂.

      And now for the true challenge of the day. We are staying in the village of Liñares where we booked an albergue a week ago. Turns out there are two Liñares in Spain and our booking was in the Linares hundreds of miles away. So no room for the night and some of our luggage was set to go to a place that isn’t even on the Camino 😢. Well, they say the Camino provides and it does. The Camino Liñares only has one place to stay and they had just two beds left! AND they got on the phone and found our bag. To make it all better, the two people in the beds across from us are our new super friends Sara and Andrew. The Camino continues to provide and amaze.
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    • Day 30

      Day 30: Sarria

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      This morning we leapfrogged by taxi once more, driving an hour from Camponaraya to Sarria. We paralleled the Camino much of the way, deferring the steep hike up to O Cebreiro for our next Camino, whenever that may be.

      Teo, our driver, pointed out apple and pear orchards along the route, and told us slate is mined and exported to England and other northern European countries as a roofing material.

      We snapped photos as we drove past a large Benedectine structure, el Monasterio de San Julián de Samos, and arrived in Sarria a short while after.

      We’re staying in a small three room hostal here, right along El Camino.

      Tomorrow’s plan is for me to walk 17 kilometers to Mercadoiro, while Allan covers that distance by taxi with our backpacks. Many pilgrims start their Camino here in Sarria, so I expect the route will be far from deserted.
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    • Day 30

      Albergue

      June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      Peter,Philip and I made it here in a pretty good time were able to get our beds and relax

      Nice albergue but it is literally the second building in a whole place
      we thought it was a truck stop but it would be too good of a comparison because there is absolutely nothing else here...Read more

    • Day 30

      The Day Thou Gavest Lord Hath Ended

      June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

      We started in Vega de Valcarce and climbed to El (O) Cebreiro. Sometimes it was a bit rough going but we perceivered..
      Overall it was steeper (or at least IMHO) than ascent going to Zubiri on Day 3but the trail wasn't nearly as bad... so ALLES GUT

      Temps reached 105 today but we were long at albergue by then, clocking at 21km.
      Although not on the map Linares is more or less in that dip between O and S in "hospital"

      it just started to thunderstorm and we hope for the repeat of the day passed: rain through the night, cool everything down, nice morning to start the day... because (surPRISE, surPRISE!!!)
      tomorrow we have to descend all we assented today...and perhaps even some more...

      Thankfully this shall be the last high Ridge we deal with, any elevation changes after are more like small rolling hills...

      Climb every mountain (incl. Mount Niitaka)
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    • Day 35

      To Liñares

      October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      October 4

      Today was a perfect day to climb high up to O’Cebreiro. The air was cool as we left in the dark and never got uncomfortable. We walked along a stream, by many cows and through the trees until we were out in the open with a view down the valley where we had come. This type of a blue sky day makes hiking seem easier.

      When we stopped for a quick break, we ran into Nika again! We love the ebb and flow of the Camino. You never know who will turn up.

      Once we were to O’Cebreiro, there was a collection of Camino friends having drinks/snacks - Don and Maryann, Judy, the Switzerland women, Karen, Pam, Hanz and Trudy, with these last four drinking a bottle of wine and some beer before heading back out to hike some more. 😂🍷🍺
      Don shared his Cebreiro cheese and honey with Alan which was the cheese he was SO looking forward to trying. We then had to hike our last 3.5 kilometers to Liñares, where we are staying.

      Both Alan and I have bottom bunks tonight in the albergue. At first, I thought I would have to do the top, but the hospitalero let me have a bottom-WOoHOO!

      Tomorrow, we walk to Triacastela. 93 miles left to go. 🙂
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    • Day 44

      To Linares

      May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Good sleep marred by selfish people having noisy conversations and packing noisily at 6am. Sadly confirmed the stereotypes associated with their nationality. I got up and went to the kitchen, when I got back sometime head turned on the light - despite Sal still being asleep. They said they didn't notice her - in other words they didn't look - but did not apologise.
      Lovely walk up the valley alongside a busy stream and lush green meadows bordered by mature trees then up through the mountains through forest and well made though sometimes steep tracks. Stops in various places for coffee/ food - croissants, choc croissants, empanadas. At one stop - Las Herrerias - as we walked in we met two seemingly stray white horses grazing by the roadside. As we approached they suddenly took off , trotting away down the end of the village. Once we got there - after coffee - we found them being saddled up , ready to carry pilgrims up the hill to O Cebreiro. The horseman whistled to get other horses to come to get saddled.
      On the way up we met Heidi, a professor of biology and Joe, a pastor or priest can't remember which, from North Dakota and Montana respectively. Another coffee stop, at La Faba, because the place and the view were so pretty, and we didn't want to waste ay pretty: no pretty left behind.
      In O Cebreiro we met up with Heidi and Joe again, the two Kiwi women we had met previously in Calzadilla de la Cueza (I think) and Rebecca from Chicago. Good to catch up with all and shared a yummy lunch of octopus (pulpo gallego) and chorizo bocadillo.
      Easy walk a few k's down to our auberge in Linares.
      In the 'couples' bunk room with Thomas and Anneka from Sweden. Thomas was brought to Sweden as a child, in the seventies, by his parents fleeing the military coup in Chile.
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    • Day 30

      Etappe 28 O Cebreiro-Triacastela

      October 12, 2021 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

      Nach einem kleinen Frühstück, ein Marmeladenbrot und einen Kaffee verliessen wir heute morgen das kleine Bergdorf gegen 8.00 Uhr !
      Die Nacht war furchtbar , ich habe bis 4.00 geschlafen , ich spürte die Erkältung in mir und mir war eiskalt in dem Zimmer .

      Heute war ein traumhaft schöner Tag! Das Wetter war super, und die Strecke war ein absoluter Traum .
      Immer mal wieder Wechsel zwischen auf und ab, genau so wie wir es mögen !
      Es ging durch zahlreiche alte Dörfer, immer wieder kamen uns ganze Kuhherden entgegen, so dass wir uns an die Hauswand lehnen mussten um sie vorbei zu lassen, schon ein beängstigendes Gefühl eine Kuh so nah an dir dran!

      Unterwegs trafen wir immer wieder alte Gesichter und plauderten ein wenig!
      Die Strecke kam mir heut endlos vor , ich war heut auch nicht so fit wie sonst!

      Endlich im Hostel angekommen, hoffte ich im Dorf eine Apotheke zu finden !Leider vergebens heut ist Feiertag in Spanien ! So aß ich noch eine heisse Nudelsuppe und trank noch 2 Tee, und zog mich aufs Zimmer zurück und bettete das es mir morgen besser geht!
      Janine ging nochmal ins Dorf und traf sich mit der ein oder anderen lieb gewonnene Bekanntschaft!

      Bilanz
      -21,59 km
      -344 Höhenmeter
      -666,77 km Gesamtstrecke
      Heute hat’s mich doch tatsächlich erwischt, ich habe eine fette Grippe.
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    • Day 25

      O'Cebreiro: Reaching Galicia

      June 1, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Today was my penultimate day on the Camino, starting out at 7am to beat the heat, I walked two hours before reaching the base of the mountain then climbed without stopping for two and a half hours, steadily and slowly, til I reached the ancient 1st century village O’Cebreiro at the top. It was a glorious and beautiful walk in spite of the heat and the horse pies all the way up.

      In the village I went straight to the church which has been set up partially as a shrine to Father Sampedro, the priest responsible for revitalizing the Camino in late 1980’s by painting the ubiquitous yellow arrows the whole distance of the French Way, making it more user friendly for pilgrims and contributing hugely to its current popularity.

      The church is filled with votive candles lit by pilgrims, so I spent some time there with my prayer list and lit many candles.
      I gave thanks to Father Sampedro for his devotion to this place and this passage; he has helped us modern pilgrims find a link to the ancient ritual of walking a pilgrimage—an offering of ourselves to God and a gift to our own souls.

      A perfect place to end my pilgrimage.

      Tomorrow, I walk my last 20 kms to get to Triacastela and from there make my way home via Sarria and Madrid.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Celeiró, Celeiro, ESCEL

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