Spanien
Cervatos de la Cueza

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    • Dag 19

      Calzadilla de la Cueza

      7. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      What can I say about today? God’s lap can get Really Warm! Today was simple, just about the walking. After two stops, a small village where coffee was had, and a large town where I happily loaded up on sandwich makings and dried fruit and nuts (ok, and also some pink and white marshmallows which for some reason I could not resist), it was time to launch into a 17 Km stretch with no villages or fountains whatsoever. One just walks. Morgan and I made lunch in a rare shaded rest stop and then - walked a lot more. It was great, lots of time to just reflect, but not much for photo ops. I took a pair of pictures below, one facing forward and the other looking back. Ha! Admittedly, the last eight kilometers were kind of grueling, but not in a miserable way.
      The albergue we found beds in is great! Each is always so unique. This one has a pool, and nice shaded sitting areas. The owner is very sociable and also walked the Camino and felt very affected ny it. After the heat the pool, shade and beers were great. The paella purchased next door was spectacularly bad. The conversation more than made up for it though. Me being me, I had no idea what a huge part other people would play in my experience of the Camino. Another really good day!
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    • Dag 30

      Calzadila de la Cueza

      17. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

      No i udało się bez deszczu. Dzień można powiedzieć pochmurny z przebłyskami słońca, no i na koniec z dużym wiatrem. Mieliśmy długi 17 km odcinek przez mesete gdzie oprócz przestrzeni nic nie ma, no może poza małym barem z ulubionymi napojami w połowie drogi. No bar to może za duże słowo, ale bar mobilno - lotny może bardziej pasuje. Droga dzisiejsza jest pozostałością antycznej drogi rzymskiej, którą transportowano metale szlachetne z Hiszpanii do Rzymu.
      Rano ruszyliśmy najpierw na mszę niedzielną, która odbywała się w malutkim kościółku przy zamkniętym zakonie sióstr Karmelitanek. Uczestniczylismy razem z nimi we mszy świętej, co prawda one nie były widoczne i były oddzielone od wszystkich kratami. Tylko do komunii otworzyło się małe okienko w kratach i było widać ich ręce. Kasia naliczyła 11 dłoni po kolei wyciągniętych by otrzymać Komunię. Dodatkowo Siostry uświetniały śpiewem i organową muzyką poranną mszę. Głębokie przeżycie dla nas...
      Mamy nocleg w bardzo malym miasteczku może parę domów i to wszystko. Wciąż dmucha wiatrzysko i sprawia wrażenie , że jest zimno. Jutro w prognozie deszcz no ale zobaczymy jak to się rozłoży. Na razie odpoczynek wspólny obiad z pielgrzymami, którzy jak my zatrzymali się w tej malutkiej osadzie na mesecie...
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    • Dag 26

      At Calzadilla de la Cueza, a tiny town

      5. maj, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

      We left our beautiful San Zoilo hotel a little after 9 this morning. Breakfast was at 8, but we knew the weather was unreliable and could get bad later, and it was only about 16 kms. And we knew that tonight would not be as fancy as last night. And I must mention dinner last night, fashionably at 8.30, even the half pension menu was great and it was rather fine dining. Amr, Rachel and I had grilled vegetables for our entrée, and it was a beautifully arranged plate of so many veges - artichoke, peas, beans, eggplant, leek, carrot, pumpkin, zucchini, asparagus, cauliflower, broccoli, tomatoes, Brussels sprouts and even bok choy! served with a romesco type sauce, just delicious and a full meal in itself as is often the case in Spain, pilgrim menus anyway….then you have some form of meat and potatoes…

      So today’s walk was maybe the least spectacular of the meseta, and if walked not in spring, or in bad weather, may cause people to blacklist this section, as it was basically flat and straight, with just a little undulation at the end when you thankfully come across this village hiding just under the horizon. But we had a good walk, and of course it is now green and beautiful, with quite a lot of yellow fields of rapeseed or some mustard crop, and ploughed fields waiting for what I think will be sunflowers, as we saw them before here. There were many moments of beauty.

      One excitement for me was that I discovered my new phone, which I use as a camera and on wifi but has no SIM, can use the app I had downloaded for identifying plants…I had assumed it needed some internet connection, but just decided to try instead of asking Amr or Rachel, and it worked…it is all downloaded!! This was such fun for me, and I trailed along testing plants and flowers. There are so many wild flowers along all the edges - came across some poison hemlock which was the most interesting find of the day.

      Another funny thing happened when we were having a break at one point - there are benches and picnic tables dotted around here and there, and even once a coffee truck sort of set up - there was a woman with a hat like Amr’s!! She said she’d bought it in Australia, but admitted she didn’t know where it was made..! So it’s not as unique as we thought, even though we bought it in a small French village and it is made in Nepal. But Amr wearing it is unique!

      We arrived here at 2 pm and were happy that we had beaten any really bad weather. It was cool but not freezing, though it was very windy which was hard to walk through. But maybe the wind helped keep the rain at bay because we had odd spots of raindrops occasionally, but nothing that required ponchos (though some pessimists put them on and had them flapping madly in the wind). Checked into our basic but more than adequate rooms, had a drink, and people were arriving wind blown and drenched poor things….we were so happy to be warm and cosy by then. They had walked further, from the town where yesterday’s lovely church was. Dinner here at 7.30, all good.
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    • Dag 10

      Camino Day 6 - Sahagun

      29. august 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Another 23kms today which brings our total to 135kms. A great walk today with towns almost every 3-4 km's which really broke up the day nicely.
      Stopped in one for 2nd breakfast, another for a juice, another for lunch.
      The scenery is still magical with open plains as far as you can see. The temperature was ok with mid 20's.
      Our bed for the night is in a monestary run by VERY religious Marist brothers who seperate men from women sleeping in the same room. But a lovely place and the best shower yet on the Camino.
      Feet are still sore. Tried to wear my shoes for about 5k's today but that was not a good idea. Back into my Teva's with toe socks. Stunning look.
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    • Dag 27

      It's a Long Way to Calzadilla de la Cuez

      14. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      The most boring 17K walk I'll ever do! No shade, mostly flat, I was having hallucinations by the end.😅 Thank God there was a breeze, and it was not the height of the summer!

      2 things that broke up the 4 hour monotony-- a Pilgrim traveling by
      skateboard, and a food truck that served cold, fresh squeezed orange juice.

      Happy to be in Calzadilla de la Cueza for the night. Atleast we know there is food & drink here, unlike last night when we weren't sure...learning to take nothing for granted.
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    • Dag 21

      Day 22. Calzadilla de la Cueza

      20. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Knowing that today‘a destination was only 18.8 kms allowed for a later start, so I got on the trail by 8:45. Not any hills on this flat and somewhat featureless landscape. There were no facilities - and no water - until we reached our destination, Calzadilla de la Cueza, a very small village that likely would not exist if were not for the Camino. I had a good breakfast before departing.
      Since I left so late, I didn’t encounter many people I met before. I did connect with Jeff, from Florida, who was an expert on how to retire in Europe. He says the only requirement for getting a residency visa in Portugal is showing that you have $13 000 in a Portuguese bank account, or proof that you have equity that adds up to that much. If you do that, you cannot work there but you do get access to their healthcare.You can top off healthcare for $280/month. These are US dollars. He doesn’t appear to be more than 50 years old living off the passive income of his real estate holdings in Florida. He doesn’t have any kids, but does have a girlfriend who booted him out of her house. That’s why he’s on the Camino.
      I then moved on to two people from Minnesota: Susan, a retired librarian from the University of Minnesota, and Susan, a retired nurse. We spent almost two hours discussing our favourite books and writers. Susan was passionate about Alice Munro, a Canadian writer, also one of my favourite, so we discussed many of her short stories, many set in rural Ontario.
      I reached the hotel by 1:00 pm, when I reconnected with people I had met before, and Jeff joined us too. By mid-afternoon, after showering and doing our wash - and comparing our washed underwear hanging from our windows - we congregated on the hotel’s terrace. We were three Canadians , three Americans, two Australians, and two Brits, later joined by a German lady and another Brit. Much of the discussion revolved Jeff’s retirement possibilities and two female farmers, a cattle farmer from Australia and a sheep farmer from England. This is a great way to meet people from different countries, in interesting professions done in a family atmosphere.
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    • Dag 20

      Day 20

      12. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Monday again… breakfast obviously started earlier today, as I could hear lots of banging of doors and smell bacon from about 6am.. I still didn’t go down until my usual time as there was no point, I didn’t need to leave until 8.
      The forecast had changed slightly and the rain wasn’t due until this afternoon!! Result!!
      Although a bit cloudy to start today, it was actually really really warm.. it was a bit more of the same today, except it wasn’t long straight tracks and it passed through a few small villages .. amazing the difference it made.
      Just on the outskirts of Sahagún, I met a group of walker’s laughing as they wandered along, as I passed them they were all drinking from a bottle of red wine!! .. they even offered me a swig!! I politely declined, but definitely decided it was ok for me to have a beer when i got there!!
      Having had my beer ( not my first 😬 ) and my first paella snack since arriving in Spain ( I was expecting it to be every other meal!! ) I set off to find my accommodation..
      My room is lovely, super clean and bright after yesterday’s dark and gloomy one.. I put my bag down, lay down for a minute ( today was the first time my legs felt really tired ) .. and woke up 2 hours later!!!!
      Showered and sorted, I decided to go in search of a cash machine.. I got as far as the door, it was absolutely hammering down, so I joined Hazel and Yvonne for a beer.. would have been rude not to do so I thought.. it was a lovely hour talking about how we were feeling, finding it, and how quickly you loose your pride about wearing the same few outfits, hanging socks that haven’t dried on your rucksack and the joy of doing your laundry!!
      Then… In walks Rocky!! Real big trucker guy from Wisconsin, really outgoing and friendly … he’d arrived here yesterday, got a halfway certificate, then felt so guilty because he’d actually got a taxi for that stage due to blisters or something, that he’d got a taxi back this morning and hiked it today!!
      For a change ( not! ) I’m really hungry again and counting down till it’s time to eat.. 7 minutes!! I hope it’s not a disappointment 😂😂…
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    • Dag 22

      Stage 20: Carrion-Calzadilla de la Cueza

      4. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      17 km/10 miles, 46°-74°, about 5.5 hours. Left Carrion a little later than planned as I found it hard to get up before 0700. Left my phone charger in the room which I was sure I was never going to do. So I may be offline until I can find another one. My next stop, Sahagún, is big enough I should be able to find one there. Was rather slow going as right lower leg was quite unhappy, on the top of the foot going up into the front of my lower leg. The muscles used to dorsiflex, or pull the toes up, are painful and the area was red and swollen when I got here. The kind bar man gave me a bag of ice, that and some naproxen are helping considerably. The hostal I'm staying in has a restaurant and serves dinner at 6:30! So I don't have to walk far to find food. It's 13.9, let's just call it 14, miles to Sahagún tomorrow, if this isn't feeling better I may take a taxi. I'm almost at the halfway point, feet don't fail me now! The expansive flat landscape of the meseta reminds me of Nebraska or Iowa, thank goodness I'm walking it in October in the 60s and 70s, it would have been unbearable in the summer.
      And now, a siesta before dinner.
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    • Dag 17

      17 km without a single house

      16. august 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      The stage of today is very much feared by many people as the first 17 Km there is no house! I got up at 5, started at 5.30 without breakfast and arrived before 9! It’s chilly (13C) and a bit windy so perfect walking weather! I met people and did a lecture in Schleswig’s history (from the ancient Hügelgräber to the vikings and king Abel till the Battle of Hemmingstedt). That way it was easier! Maybe I can do all the way to Sahagun, wich is another 22 KMs! May feets are aching - but I might do proper breaks! No I enjoy my well deserved breakfast with Tortilla, Cafe con leche grande and zumo de naranja! Guten Morgen!Læs mere

    • Carrion de los Condes to Ledigios

      17. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      Both Cristina and I felt our feet have taken quite a beating today. Some evenings you go to sleep thinking, “How am I going to be able to walk tomorrow?” Then you walk 23k. The pack seems lighter as we’ve become accustomed to carrying it. That’s what 17 days of hoofing it gets you… sore feet and a lighter pack.

      An easier day tomorrow, and the a long day the day after.
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