Spain
El Burgo Ranero

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    • Day 12

      Camino Day 8 - Reliegos

      August 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Short day today with only 14 km's.
      Problem with accommodation has forced us to stop early. The town ahead has two albergues but one is closed today and the other hasn't reopened after COVID. This will also lead us to walk to the next town and then take a bus to Leon.
      Yes, this is not the planned way but no accommodation and injury has forced us to do it. We have now planned a three day stopover in Leon to fully recover before we start the hills of Galacia.
      We are all fine from the knees up but the lower levels have taken a pounding, more than any other walk.
      Lots more pilgrims are now on the trail so it's getting busy at each town.
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    • Day 14

      Camino Day 9 - Leon

      September 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Had a fun night at Bar Elvis with shots all round and 50's music playing loud. An iconic stop on the Camino trail. Even managed to find a spot and Hollie added our names to the endless writing.
      Set off for Leon this morning with a short 6km walk then a bus to finish. That is if I booked the tickets for the right date and not in a month's time. So a taxi to Leon it was as there were no buses running.
      I actually walked into Leon almost the same path I did 6 years ago, straight to the Cathedral.
      We had a walk around, went to the markets, had a beer and some lunch, walked around some more, had another beer, and waited for our apartment guy to turn up.
      Leon is an amazing city and we have 3 nights here to explore and recuperate.
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    • Day 26 - Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero -18k

      September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      I am in a private room in El Burgo Ranero right now. It is not luxury, but again, I can just spread my things all over the place so it works well for me. It also has a nice quiet outdoor space and I sat for a little bit in the sun (though not too long as I get enough sun every day). I will also not have to worry about bothering people with my snoring. I really don’t know how bad it is and if I discovered a better side to sleep on or not. I think I may try to record myself tonight and see.

      Today’s walk was 18kms and manageable. I stopped my usual every 5km or so and as usual, people asked if I was ok. I am kind of used to it now, but when one guy stopped and asked “tu bien”, I said yes, he didn’t believe me and continued to prob. I had my socks off as I like to let my feet breathe and so I guess he was very concerned about this. Then I got a little pissed off. I said “Tres Bien” and gave him a look. I know they think they are being kind, which is why I started to let it slide, but to then go on and on about it, that is just annoying.

      I am two days away from Leon (a big city) and am thinking of the supplies I may need. The one thing I have been debating is new shoes/boots. The ones I have are pretty tight and hot which is why I think I need to stop more than usual and let my feet breathe. Before I had left Canada I had decided at the last minute to take these boots. My ankle was still very weak and I didn’t feel supported in the Hoka’s I had bought. My ankle feels much better now, so I am thinking of possibly getting Altras. I have heard great things about them, especially the wide toe boot. I will probably take a look, but I am scared to give up my boots just yet. There is a couple tough areas coming up, plus the reality of more rain. I will let you know what I decide.

      Today’s walk was uneventful. It was mostly walking on a path beside the road. For a lot of it, I actually walked the road as it wasn’t a busy one (only 1 car passed the whole time). I like road walking as it is predictable. Not likely to have a loose rock in my way causing havoc when I step on it and twist something.

      I think I am going to sit down tonight and do some serious planning on my stops and perhaps reserve a little bit. It is getting really crazy out here and I hear so often people turned away. I have around 325 kms left. We officially passed the half way mark yesterday. This would mean I have roughly 16 days left if I do around 20km a day, not including a rest day. I think I may take a rest day in Leon and then we will see.

      Well, I better sign off now and do some planning and some eating.

      TTYL
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    • Day 22–23

      The truck stop stage

      September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      Not many pics. Roadside walking was more of the same yet still very pleasant since it was low 70s, with a clear blue sky and a light breeze.

      One stop along the way was a very large, clean, friendly albergue, where we saw the ladies from Scotland, a guy who has harnessed a golf bag carrier to his hips in order to transport his pack, and an ambulance take away a pilgrim in some kind of distress.

      If we were homesick for the US, tonight might have cured us. We are staying just outside a small town (El Burgo Ranero) at a motel attached to a truck stop with a 24-hour diner on the first floor. Very American vibe. Nice to be able to order up a hearty burger and chips at 3 pm. The town itself is small and plain, with adobe-style clay and brick homes and buildings.

      Ran into Laguna Beach guy again. His name is John. Biking the Camino for the 4th time but following the same stages as walkers to savor things, and also to keep pace with a friend who is jogging the stages as training for a marathon. I'd say most people we meet are doing the Camino for the combination of physical challenge and communal hospitality. Not as many seeking salvation or indulgences😄, but definitely a few working through some grief.
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    • Day 40

      Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero

      October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

      I didn’t take any photos today, it was wet and cold, and I was just wanting to walk fast to get warm. I am including a couple of photos that Roel took of me that show the wet conditions on the trails.
      We walked from the monastery albergue in Sahagún to a nice little albergue in El Burgo Ranero, just about 18 km. We had to use a hairdryer to try to dry our shoes and socks and other things enough so that maybe they’ll be dry by morning. Oh, and I ate the most delicious vegetarian meal I’ve had so far, check out the picture!
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    • Day 30

      12k to Reliegos

      October 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      Long walk all morning in a light rain, only heavy enough to put on rain coats a couple of times.

      We were pleasantly surprised to have a small patch of trees to walk through, on either side of a small stream.

      The local government was kind enough to post instructions on "how to poop in the woods"!

      Other than that it was the usual Meseta walk on long straight and flat next to a lightly travelled road.
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    • Day 29

      El Burgo Ranero from Sahagún

      June 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

      Keeping it easy today.

      I think I'd have enjoyed another five km but the next town is nearly 13km away and temps are ramping up quickly. Better to be gentle than overdo it after a sick day.

      The Meseta continues to be .... Bland.
      The landscape was dominated by cornfields today.

      I had high hopes for finding a pool but it seems I misread the icons on the app.... Plenty of warm adobe but no splish-splash, alas.

      My feet and belly are feeling a million times better, and that's good enough.

      We didn't really plan to splurge but Bruce and I got a double room at a hotel instead of paying only slightly less for dormitory space at the albergue. I'm going to get spoiled if I keep doing this. I find it challenging to not 'splurge' less than the cost of a pint of beer at home to have a better sleep. Maybe I'm getting soft.
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    • Day 31

      Camino Day 21: Sahagún to Burgo Ranero

      September 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Total Distance: 18km
      Step Count: 30.1k
      Blisters to date: 2
      Tortillas to date: 19
      Injuries: shin splints

      Today, I walked with Tommaso as Lukas started super early to try and make his way to Leon where we’d meet again in 2 days.

      It was a very chill walk talking about love, faith and life. I love having conversations with people who think deeply and can appreciate and accept different perspectives on different topics. It was a lovely bonding time on the trail. I also got a tarot reading at our breakfast stop which was very interesting and entertaining 🃏

      Our destination was El Burgo Ranero where according to Jorge, we might experience the most beautiful sunset on the whole camino! The town was quite cute with not much happening but the Albergue we stayed at was so serene in ways we couldn’t describe! I journaled for hours and had lovely chats with the volunteers.

      In the evening, we went to find the bench we were meant to watch the sunset from but the weather wasn’t great so not much to be seen but you could see how on a good day, the spot had so much potential!

      I also met a lovely group of Spanish women who were really worried about my leg which wasn’t hurting anymore but was swelling inexplicably 🤷🏻‍♀️

      I was contemplating a 37km day to Leon the next day to go to a health centre and get my leg checked but the Camino always provides and had better plans for me! ✨
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    • Day 23

      Mira

      August 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Da gibt es eine Gruppe von Menschen, die sich seit über 30 Jahren alle zwei…drei Monate treffen. Ich gehöre seid 29 Jahren dazu. Wir sind 6 Menschen, mittlerweile in die - guten - Jahre gekommen.
      •••••
      Eine von uns ist im letzten Jahr von uns gegangen - Mira -, das war ihr verborgener Name: Mira, das Wunder. Sie ist immer noch da und begleitet mich oft auf meinem Weg hier, wenn sie mir eines der von ihr so geliebten Rilke-Gedicht zuraunt:

      Der Engel
      Mit einem Neigen seiner Stirne weist
      er weit von sich was einschränkt und verpflichtet;
      denn durch sein Herz geht riesig aufgerichtet
      das ewig Kommende das kreist.

      Die tiefen Himmel stehn ihm voll Gestalten,
      und jede kann ihm rufen: komm, erkenn -.
      Gieb seinen leichten Händen nichts zu halten
      aus deinem Lastenden. Sie kämen denn

      bei Nacht zu dir, dich ringender zu prüfen,
      und gingen wie Erzürnte durch das Haus
      und griffen dich als ob sie dich erschüfen
      und brächen dich aus deiner Form heraus.

      Dann höre ich ihr spitzbübisches Lachen. Mira.
      •••••
      Wenn wir zusammenkommen, dann berichten wir uns, was wir erlebt haben, was wir empfinden, wo wir stehen und versuchen, in den kleinen Begebenheiten dem großen Bogen unserer Biographie näher zu kommen. Dabei lauschen wir einander und an den offenen Ohren wachsen wir in unser Dasein.
      •••••
      Heute ist wieder so ein Treffen in Frutigen hinterm Thunersee - und ich kann nicht dabei sein. Ich bin gerade in einem kleinen Dorf bei den Weißen Steinen. Heute geht es weiter zu den Sanftmütigen Maultieren.
      Nehmt mich mit, ihr Lieben, und habt eine gute Zeit und danke für euer bei mir sein. Das tut ja so gut.
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    • Day 17

      El Burgo Ranero

      May 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      A 29kms walk along the main roads, but still enjoyable to just listen to the crunch of stoney path under your feet and look around. We passed the geographical halfway mark to Santiago de Compostella (even though we covered more than 450kms so far, so waaaaay passed the half). Yippeee!!!Read more

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    El Burgo Ranero, 24343

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