Spain
Estella-Lizarra

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    • Day 9

      Day 7 - To Estella

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Day 7 - To Estella
      22 km; 25°C
      My guidebook offers a difficulty rating for each stretch of the path. Today was rated at 2/3.
      Puente La Reina was a beautiful quaint little town, a typical European village. I love the old buildings!
      Along the way to Estella I came upon this restful place of tranquility, in the middle of nowhere. Free snacks and refreshments (hopefully a donation offered). A place to exchange things no longer needed…..clothing, books, etc. A sign with a sobering thought as I left. Still 676 km to go!
      I happened upon a
      “Trail Angel” providing water, wine and snacks at no change. Bless the angels! Then finally arrived in Estella!
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    • Day 8

      Etappe 5 - Estella 3

      September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Trotz der Anstrengungen der Tagesetappe war es noch ein ausgiebiger Stadtrundgang.
      Super Altstadt mit vielen sehenswerten Kirchen als auch Stadthäusern. Leider stehen in Estella viele Geschäfte und Gaststätten leer, ähnlich wie bei uns.
      Zum Pilgermenü haben wir uns noch einmal mit den Pilgerfreunden Bettina, Denis und Marise getroffen. Denis wohnt mit in unserer Pilgeherberge und begleitet unseren Weg noch bis Burgos. Bettina und Marise legen morgen erst einmal einen Ruhetag ein.
      Fazit des Tages: Politiker sollten den Pilgerweg gehen und die Kameradschaft und Freundschaft der Pilger aus aller Welt aufnehmen, verinnerlichen und leben.Vieles auf der Welt würde sich ändern lassen.
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    • Day 9

      Etappe 6 - Los Arcos 1

      September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

      Heute Nacht konnten einem fast Mordgedanken kommen. Wir hatten einen Mitschläfer im Zimmer der fast sieben Stunden geschnarcht hat und noch andere Laute von sich gab. Habe fast nicht geschlafen.
      Trotzdem ging es heute 6.30 Uhr auf die nächste Etappe. Kurzes Frühstück unterwegs und dann kam schon das Kloster Irache. Am Weinbrunnen kurze Rast mit einem Becher Wein (lecker) und der Tag ist nochmal so schön.
      Weiter ging es durch kleine, idyllische Bergdörfer, abgeerntete Felder, vorbei an Weinbergen und durch Olivenhaine.
      Das Wetter ist traumhaft: Sonnenschein, blauer Himmel und leichter Wind. Richtiges Pilgerwetter.
      Jetzt kurze Rast an einem Food Truck- und weiter geht's Richtung Los Arcos.
      Sind gegen 12 Uhr gut angekommen. Stehen nun in der Schlange der Pilger, welche alle gern ein Bett in der Pilgerherberge haben möchten.
      Bett ergattert! Schlafsaal mit 34 Personen, drei Duschen, drei Toiletten. Mal sehen wie diese Nacht verläuft.
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    • Day 13

      The Road from Zirauki

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      The road leaving Cirauqui (known as Zirauki in Basque) was a Roman Road, at least that's what the stories say. But I digress.

      Last night I swallowed a little blue pill given to me by a stranger. What happens on the Camino stays on the Camino!!! Don't try this at home. This was after I started a trend where everyone in the hostel room lay on the floor and stretched their feet up the walls in solidarity with my tired feet, and because they agreed that it was a bloody good idea. Anyway as a result of this, and possibly the power of smothering Betadine on your feet, which makes your blisters look much worse, I was offered numerous blister remedies and one little blue anti inflammatory that Jill from Florida swears by for her arthritis.

      Feeling quite spritely this morning I bounded off down the Roman road in search of adventure. For a while I managed to pass an 80 year old carrying a full pack while going up a hill but he got me again on the straight. I did actually walk at the same pace as another group for a couple of kilometres which was a first.

      Unfortunately my feet were back to needing bionic replacement by the 10km mark and the last two kilometers took me the rest of the afternoon. At some point I passed Villatuerte, known and much easier to pronounce in Basque as Bilatorta. Must be that 0.1 % of Basque DNA I have that results in Basque language making more sense than Spanish. There may have been lunch in there as well with an 70ish Italian guy who needed someone to help him finish his bottle of red.

      I'm in ancient territory again tonight with the old city of Estella, founded in 1090 by the then King of Navarre. The buildings date back to the 1200's. Estella was purposely built on the Way of St James to service the pilgrims and honour the Christian god. Spain is a deeply Catholic Christian country and all the many churches I pass still hold several masses each day and everything remains shut on Sundays.

      My photos show a few other Camino wonders, a rest spot in the olive groves built for pilgrims, a table with free or 'donotivo' food left out for pilgrims and my new clam shell. These shells are a symbol of the pilgrimage but I hadn't acquired a commercial one yet to hang on my pack. But my little blue pill supplier also deals in clam shells and now I have a personally collected shell from Mexico. I also have another little blue pill for tonight. After that, I might have to practice my Spanish on the next lucky pharmacist I come across. Spanish for over the counter anti-inflammatory anyone?
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    • Day 22

      Estella - another beautiful day!

      April 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      We have walked another 23 kms! We have it down to a fine art, and stop and have breaks, smell the roses, and arrive not too worn out. It was quite a hard walk - I sort of remembered from before, but every 5 years it seems to get even harder! There was a lot of up and down - up to the hilltop towns, then down to the rivers…and walking in to Estella is a long slow process - you know it’s only about 2 kms, but there is no sight of civilisation - it only appears at the last minute, tucked in the valley. A lovely little town, but the camino really just passes one end. Our hotel, where we have now stayed 3 times, is at the other end, about a km off the camino, so we get to see inside and enjoy it. We had a beer in the main square on our way in, as once at the hotel we knew we wouldn’t be leaving. It’s a great hotel, in a not great part of town opposite a brickworks, though from our room we have a lovely view of the surrounding mountains. And it has a coin operated laundry so Amr is officiating and has put a load on!

      So our walk today was again through beautiful countryside - more and more of the grain crops (I asked some Spanish walkers what it was and they just said “cereal” and when I said wheat they said yes, but I am not sure). But there are still the very decorative rapeseed fields, and lots of broad beans! Amr has an app which tries to identify flora, and I was so happy to have it confirmed that they were indeed fava bean plants which I remember from my childhood!

      We left Puente la Reina this morning over the famous puente, and it was quite cold - about 6° - but we didn’t take fleeces, and were soon taking off another layer…it gets quite hot, especially when walking, but deliciously gets cool again as the sun goes down. Looking at the forecast it will be hotter in the next few days, even in upper 20s…hope we’ve moved past that by then! Maybe our fleeces will be packed away for the rest of the trip?
      Now back from dinner..pilgrim menu, cheap (€14.50 including wine) and delicious - Amr had highlight, pork knuckle…and I wore my tevas without socks!!
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    • Day 3

      3. DAY | 25 km

      May 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Bergauf Bergauf Bergauf...

      Und wenn ich dachte, dass ich stark bin dann wusste ich wohl nicht wieviel stärker ich sein kann. Während im normalen Leben die Tiefs eher anstrengend sind ist es hier genau umgekehrt die Höhen sind anspruchsvoller. Eine erste Spende aus meinem Rucksack wird morgen für die Caritas übergeben 10 Kilo für 53 Kilometer waren etwas zuviel und ich bevorzuge nicht das tägliche verfrachten von meinem Rucksack auch wenn das die meisten Pilger hier tun. Gott schickt dir auf den Camino dass was du brauchst und heute wäre die Strecke ohne Leonardo und Massimo definitiv anders gewesen. Nicht nur die Sprachen sorgen für eine Abwechslungsreiche Wanderung zwischen italienisch, deutsch, englisch und spanisch auch die Gefühle sind hier ein ständiges up and down. Es bleibt spannend und ich lasse das Ende offen sorgt definitiv unterbewusst für weniger Druck.

      Elli

      In salita in salita in salita...

      E se pensavo di essere forte allora non immaginavo di quanto piu forte posso essere. Mentre nella vita normale i bassi sono piu difficili, qui sono proprio gli alti difficili. Domani consegnero un paio di cose dello zaino alla Caritas, 10 chili per 53 chilometri erano un po' troppi e non preferisco far transportare lo zaino tutti i giorni, anche se la maggior parte dei pellegrini qui lo fanno. Dio verso il Camino ti manda ciò di cui hai bisogno e oggi il percorso non sarebbe stato lo stesso senza Leonardo e Massimo. Non solo le lingue tra italiano, tedesco, inglese e spagnolo sono un mix. Anche le sensazioni sono costantemente un su e giù, rimane eccitante e lascio la fine aperta, il che inconsciamente riduce decisamente la pressione.

      Elli
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    • Day 6

      Puente la Reina to Estella

      May 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      A most exciting that happened first thing this morning while I was wandering about, I saw a Spanish snake! I nearly stepped on in and I don't know who was more startled...me or the snake. He was a gold and black, skinny about 18 inches long. He had a pointy head and his tongue was certainly showing off his muscles!

      Todays' walk was really quite lovely. We are now entering wine country! I actually walked past a vineyard and tasting room. I didn't go in for a tasting. I didn't buy any wine...but I was tempted... It was not too far about 24 km today, and still no shortage of hills as we went through about 5 towns and to and from each town is a climb and a descent.

      For a few people, I know they struggled today getting a taxi. People are starting to feel the miles in their feet and legs, and so a new conversations have started...how to get a bus or a taxi. By now most people have figured out their hotel rooms, and have either decided to live with the "bed rush", or they are booking the rest of the days, or at least booking a few days in advance. Feet and legs are becoming a more frequent conversation as well...I am hoping that after 5 full days of walking that I am getting the most obvious of ailments out and out of the way...I hope that is true.

      At Lorca, which would be about 1/2 way to Estella, I planned on stopping for lunch and was pleasantly surprised by a concert in the town square, so enjoyed a few minutes of the concert with my lunch.

      I am starting to meet the same people again and again through the day. We stop and start at our own schedules but somehow seem to meet up again. I walked a few miles with Kelly today, and another friend Diane. In fact I bumped into Diane and her friend Julie at a cafe in our desperate search for food in Estella which in the end turned out to be another piece of egg and potato pie, and a couple glasses of wine. Between the holidays, soccer games, siestas and possibly the fact that it is Saturday made for definite food challenges which are not going to improve tomorrow since the hike tomorrow has the first 10 km without any food or water service, and it is quite exposed. It will be cooler tomorrow only about 23 degrees so that does make a difference.

      On the whole my body is holding up. I mentioned to some people that I burnt my hand on one of the first days I was in France with boiling water...it is healing, but I am having to bandage it up with my modest first aid kit because my burn is getting burned!

      My feet are ok. I switched out shoes today...but they left small blisters where I remember they do (ugh), so tomorrow it is back to the mountain shoes I think, and continue to manage the blisters as best I can. With all the shops closed today, I was lucky to happen upon a grocery store and got a few things there and also some food for the trip tomorrow as well. What I really need is a fork!
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    • Day 19

      Pas par pas, droit devant

      May 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Chemin de Compostelle 13/40
      Étape #6 Camino francés" de Estella à Torres del Rio. Kilomètres parcourus: 32 km. Cumulatif : 365,7 km, 25,6 km de moyenne par jour.

      La journée a débuté tôt (6h) car on avait une grosse journée. Ce fut une très belle rando cette 13e. Des plaines et des chemins à perte de vue. On a fait plusieurs pauses pour reposer nos pieds, manger un peu et bien s’hydrater. Une journée parfaite pour la marche, soleil et nuages, un peu de vent et 21c comme maximum. Bref, vraiment une météo favorable pour nous.
      Côté condition physique, on a travaillé sur l’endurance pendant l’étape des Pyrénées et aujourd’hui on voit une différence marquée pendant les montées.
      Conclusion : Nous sommes toujours en mode préparation pour « La Meseta »
      Buen Camino!
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    • Day 31

      Ayegui

      May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Resting for a few days to get over a cold...I arrived here by bus to Estella and then taxi to this albergue in Ayegui where I could stay for three nights. Not a lot of the albergues allow more than one night hence coming here.

      As I was waiting for the bus I took a couple of photos of the square where I sat, watching the tenants come and go, so different in a small village where everyone knows each other...some are happy to see you others grumpy if you say hola.. but it's the general thing to do, and if one adds "quetal", the face lights up " muy Bien" e tu"…mucho Bien gracias...sets us up for a good conversation.

      Another thing I've noticed is that people have firm boundaries in that they focus on one thing at a time and you wait for service people to finish what they are doing before asking for anything else,.. otherwise they get grumpy. I'm not explaining that very well

      On the way I got to take a photo of one of the wee towns I missed Ceraque, again I think my spelling is wrong...just an amazing town on top of a hill... Famous for many things but one pilgrims love is the free wine that pours out of a fountain...hehe! The other night time photo is the view from my room at this albergue...a bit hazy but an idea of Estella from above.
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    • Day 8

      Reconsidering options

      August 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Perhaps not surprisingly, this is turning out to be a harder thing to do than I anticipated. I planned and prepared as much as I could, but it’s different being here and navigating the unexpected challenges each day. I forwarded my heavier pack today using a transport service and just carried a small packable daypack with water and essentials. I was able to keep up a faster walking pace without my full pack and my knee didn’t feel as strained. Walking 13ish miles still takes time, though.

      Unfortunately, I ended up with new blisters and they’re becoming increasingly uncomfortable as they build in the same area on the ball of my foot. The next few days are going to be extremely hot - close to 100 degrees. I was planning to leave in the early morning tomorrow to try to beat the heat by midday, but that doesn’t seem like it will be possible. I tried walking into town to get food for tomorrow at a grocery store but all the shops seem to be closed for a town festival they’re holding tonight. Apparently every town in Spain has a weekend when they hold a festival celebrating the town. They had one in Zubiri and none of the pilgrims slept as they played loud music from the plaza until 5am.

      I’m doing everything I can to adjust and figure out how to keep walking without injuring myself or being too miserable. I’m going to have to seriously reconsider the timeline I have to work with and whether this pilgrimage really feels like a good fit for me and what I was hoping for from the experience. I can’t keep up with the timeline suggested in the guidebooks that I used to set my itinerary (I have some 17 mile days coming up, which feels impossible in 100 degree heat). I’m considering my options and allowing myself to accept that maybe I don’t want to do this after all. We’ll see how I feel tomorrow. I’m considering finding my way to Sarria, doing the last 100k at a leisurely pace, getting my certificate and using the rest of my vacation time however I please.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Estella-Lizarra, Естела, Lizarra, Estella, エステーリャ, Stella, Estela, 31200, Эстелья, Естелья, Estella - Lizarra, 埃斯特利亚

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