Spanien
Frómista

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    • Dag 17

      Castrojeriz to Fromista

      17. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

      Today, as perhaps the next few days will be, was relatively unremarkable. This area is largely grain and barley farming, so a bit like walking through Saskwatchen (lol). In fact, much of northern Spain so far reminds me a great deal of the Okanagan: fruit, wine, lavender, but no lakes.

      Today was 25km and with the exception of one 1 km hill at a 12% grade and very windy ( Lethbridge windy), it was a good Camino day. Thankfully, my feet are getting better, and healing. They hurt less just generally. Other body parts continue to hold up.

      The windy weather may continue into tomorrow, but there is no forecast for rain, and continued temperatures in the high teens, I think it will be another week before we begin to see weather in the 20’s. But having said that despite the wind and it is a bit cool…the sky is blue and the sun is out, so very pleasant for walking.

      I walked alone much of the day but intermittently met a few friends from Australia. Later today, I met the Canadian father and daughter ( Bob and Kate) whom I see fairly consistently on the trail. I also was introduced to a couple of ladies travelling together from Ontario whom I have not met before today.

      I have attached a picture of my Camino packing system in case you ever wondered how do you pack and unpack for 50 days in a row? First, before I shower, I empty the backpack completely, empty out all the water bottles, I stack clothes into backpack clothes, dirty clothes, clothes I am going to wear after the shower. I lay out medicine, hair shampoo, toothbrush etc in the bathroom. I put all the back pack stuff ready for repacking in the morning, including the first aid kit ( which I use every morning….because every morning my feet require first aid if they are going to see the end of the day.), sun screen. It is a bit of a system, but I find I can relax, have a shower, have a wine or beer and socialize, dinner and be ready for the next day. Luggage always has to be down by 8 am. No dawdling in the morning!

      I attached a picture of the meseta which is sprawling and will continue for the next days to come. I also attached a picture of the cross with shells…it is actually just a bit macabre because in the middle 1400’s if you committed a serious crime, they hung you from it!
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    • Dag 19

      Day 20. Fromista

      18. maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      A 24.9 km day that started with a steep climb up the Alto de Mostelares this morning where we had magnificent views of the valley behind us. We stopped at a tiny auberge in a chapel along the way before connecting with a canal that brought us into the town of Fromista.
      Once again, I started this morning in 5 degree weather, but the shining sun made walking enjoyable, providing I maintained a brisk pace. At the Alto de Mostelares summit, I reconnected with the same three people I was with yesterday. Cat, the physiotherapist from Austin, spent some of her day helping pilgrims with shin splints and foot issues. One thing I learned is that if you massage your feet, you should do it upwards rather than downward. Apparently, it improves the circulation. For shin splints the best thing to do is to rest, but many struggling with this ailment have to slow their pace. Stopping was not an option for them.
      I had a great discussion with Joachim, the Spanish literature teacher who knew more English than I thought. He gave me excellent insights on Don Quixote, arguably the best novel of all time. I learned from him that de Cervantes, the novel’s author, died the same day as William Shakespeare. We then moved on to Shakespeare, comparing Henry V St. Crispin’s day speech to William Wallace’s speech in Braveheart.
      Francisco, the agronomist from Chile, owned a huge raspberry business in Mexico, although he did live in Chile, that employed over 3000 workers. He sold that business, which he says provided France with 50% of their raspberries, for an even larger blackberry business. I suspect he’s very wealthy, but he chooses to stay in auberges, living simply and communally. One thing that left a mark on him was stopping at a small church where a very elderly nun volunteered her time providing pilgrims with small religious medallions tied with a simple string. She did this with such a sense of purpose, feeling it was the most important job in the world, while expecting nothing in return. He, especially, cherished the extra one she gave him for his mother back in Chile. I have included photos of my three friends and the medallion; I had stopped at the same church and was given the same one.
      It was very windy again today and our walk was disrupted when an elderly lady was bowled over by a cyclist right in front of us. She was stunned, incurring extensive cuts, bruises, a swollen nose that bled incessantly and possibly broken. Many people stopped to help, and the cyclist, who had just sped past us, was quite apologetic. This lady’s son was understandably irate, but once her senses were restored, she smiled, forgave the cyclist, and thanked everyone.
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    • Dag 21

      Fromista to Carrion de los Condes

      6. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

      Left for Carrion de los Condes at 7:30 AM. Approximately 21 km's. Beautiful morning, very cool, nice countryside to hike through. During the lunch stop in Villacarzar, de sirga ran into several of the corp pilgrims we began the journey with. Great seeing them and catching up. Great day fitness wise, never got tired feet, and ankles held up well. Trekking poles are amazing. After checking g into the municipal alberge, did some hand washing, walked to the supermercado for some Dove soap. Will grap dinner, to sleep early. Thought the nuns at the church were singing tonight , however, they are on a rest day. Buen Camino.Læs mere

    • Dag 28

      Villarmentero de Campos

      15. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      W miarę łagodny dzień, który rozpoczął się w kończącej porannej burzy, następnie w deszczu i na koniec zakończył się wieczorną burzą. Droga była płaska i prowadziła nas do Fromisty, miasteczka z dwoma ciekawawymi kościołami. Biegła wzdłuż kanału melioracyjnego sprzed 200 lat. Wędrowaliśmy z naszymi Caminowymi przyjaciółmi AJ(Miami), Lucas( Niemcy ale mieszka na wyspach Kanaryjskich) and Ben(Węgry).
      Każdy jeden (Lucas i Ben) jest bardzo ciekawą postacią, myślę że z pogranicza autyzmu i bycia geniuszem.
      Kościół Sw. Marcina należy bez dwóch zdań do klasy perełek . Co prawda odbudowany w XVIII wieku po częściowym zburzeniu w czasie wojny, ale pierwotnie zbudowany w 1066 roku, prezentuje się w sposób niesamowicie zharmonizowany architektonicznie i stylistycznie. Detale kolumn i ich wykończenie są po prostu przepiękne i trudno dobrać właściwe słowa, aby je godnie opisać. Co ciekawe każda głowica kolumny jest inna.
      Drugi kościół jest pod wezwaniem St.Pedro, urodzonego we Fromista patrona żeglarzy, również bardzo interesujący z ciekawą rzeźbą Jezusa, którego skóra jest czarna. Znajdują się tam również rzeźby Sw. Łucji i Sw. Agaty pierwsza z wydłubanymi oczami, które trzyma na tacy i druga z obciętymi piersiami również na tacy.
      Zadziwia mnie moc nienawiści i chęci zadawania bólu u tych którzy wykonywali takie tortury..
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    • Dag 28

      Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes

      1. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Today we decided to have breakfast at our hotel at 730 am as we were only walking 19 km but knew it was going to be another very hot day. After a delicious breakfast and the first time I could have cereal ( cornflakes!) we set off again but this time in daylight. The moon was still out and once again a chilly start to the day. The feet were all good and there was much chat as we walked the first 11km but much of it was a tree lined path alongside a river( not like the rivers we know, more a sludgy canal) We did stop in at one beautiful church along the way and even if not religious they are a haven to sit in and get out of the sun.
      Finally we came to a cute little village which is home to the magnificent Templar church of Santa Maria built in the 13 th C. Again a cool haven to sit in with beautiful music playing!
      Over the road at the cafe we enjoyed pizzas and coffee. Interestingly enough our American friend and another pilgrim were complaining about the bees hovering over their food but they were actually wasps. Do they not have wasps in Nth Carolina?
      By now the day was getting hot and we still had 5 km to go with no shade so it was basically, just get on with it. Ear plugs in, audio music and books on we kept walking along side a road but expansive views and big blue skies with the sun beating down.
      I have taken a video a km out . Luckily there was a bit of a breeze so finally about 1 pm we entered Carrion de Los Condes which is a really pretty town and even had a great sports shop. Carrion has quite a mediaeval feel and was the home of 14 pilgrim hospitals. At its height it had a population of 10 thousand but now is only 2000 and declining. It seems most of these towns have declining populations!
      A few items were purchased and we banged into a few of our pilgrim family two being the Australian father and son who are staying in a monastery. The father last time we saw him had terrible blisters and was searching for hikers wool. We did give him some but then he found a paddock of sheep so went in and plucked wool off the fence for his blisters! We couldn't help but mention the rugby but he is only interested in AFL . Jane and I then met up again with a lovely young Mexican who carries an umbrella and a shopping bag as he hikes ( photo enclosed) .
      Finally we arrived at our hotel which is 1 star but very comfortable. Before we do anything we have a cold beer so cold beers it was and even better was a plate of delicious black pudding. There we met up again with a Virginian named Bill who had a lot to chat about having lived in Botswana and Nigeria many years working for the Peace Corps and was married in Botswana ( like the Cockrells)
      Anyway the beer was cold and we enjoyed listening and when Bill told us about meeting his wife across a crowded room, Lee and Brian proceeded to sing him Some enchanted evening from Sth Pacific. Ok boys time for a siesta!
      Tomorrow is going to be a 27 km walk with little or no shade so we will set off early as it's going to be another hot hot day.
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    • Dag 22

      Going to Carrión de los Condes

      9. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

      Today we walked 19 km alongside the highway to get to Carrión de los Condes. It was relatively flat and mostly not too hot.

      We passed a shepherd on the way. His herding dog was a goofy German Shepherd puppy, maybe 4-5 months old. Needless to say the pup wasn’t much help! The sheep spilled out of their enclosure, onto the Camino, and onto the highway where they stopped all traffic!

      We have been wondering for days how the sunflowers here are harvested. Today we saw two fields of flowers being harvested. We still don’t know how the oil is extracted but at least we saw the lawnmower-like machines cutting down the spent plants.

      David started out pretty well and didn’t carry a pack today due to his messed up back and “tilt.” But as the day wore on he started moving slower and tilting more. When we got to our hotel I spent a couple hours trying to figure out how to get him a massage. Out here in the countryside it is not easy! But tomorrow we’re walking slowly to Ledigos. David’s not carrying a pack and will use poles. Then we’ll take a taxi from our albergue (hostel) to the next town where he has an appointment for a massage. Here’s to hoping it does the trick!
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    • Dag 17

      Boadilla > Carrión

      17. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Somehow all managed to take different routes to this place but all got there in one piece!! Albeit a dead one piece for me - paid the price being too lazy to get out snax from bag for the final 5K LOL. In the eve sang w some nuns and I think Captain Stu needs to take over my captioning duties cos he said they should have been on the cross factor not X factorLæs mere

    • Dag 76

      66. Wandertag

      3. juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Vor dem Start am Morgen etwas Gymnastik. Der Sonnenaufgang und der Weg fantastisch. Immer wieder Storchennester und heute habe ich wieder einmal eine Lerche singen gehört. Immer wieder gerne gesehen die Cafés am Wegrand, hier gibt es feinen Milchkaffee, Tortillias und sonstige kleinen Tapas. Dann die alten Schleusen von Fromista und die obligaten Wegweiser. Das letzte Foto zeigt die Vielfältigkeit der Nationen. Hier zwei Deutsche, ein Italiener und ich. Heute beim Essen waren wir ein Italiener, ein Franzose, eine Belgierin, Südkoreaner, eine Frau aus Hongkong, ein Mann aus Taiwan und ich aus der Schweiz. Es war lustig und interessant.
      Vor dem Einkaufsladen habe ich einen etwas korpulenten Mann getroffen, er war dabei seinen Hosengurt anzuziehen, dabei hat er mir erklärt, dass er in den letzten zwei Monaten auf dem Weg 10 Kilogramm abgenommen habe. Unmittelbar daneben stand ein anderer schlanker Mann, trocken erklärte er, dass wenn er 10 Kg abnehmen sollte, man ihm einen Knochen herausnehmen müsste. Alle drei haben wir herzlich gelacht.
      Bin mal gespannt wie schwer ich bin, wenn ich wieder zuhause bin.
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    • Dag 22

      Plan B1

      8. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

      Admittedly bit a little bit more than I can chew by aggressively planning couple of upcoming days at 30-plus km which I now realize I cannot possibly do
      I now know that it would be very hard to do even without any blisters which unfortunately I still have
      so taking another "rest" day somewhat earlier than planned but completely taking it easy and grabbing a train to León which will then shorten the overall walk and allow me to plan for shorter daily stages
      Meanwhile lazily woke up at a considerably later hour and fueled myself with a quite full breakfast
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    • Dag 22

      Lazy morning in Fromista

      8. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

      Couple of more shots (ahem) downtown

      Waiting at the train station
      I think the doggies belong to the station master.

      Billy from Scotland and Chacho from Spain...
      Herve from France.
      Their Caminos are (sadly) finished... but there's always another time

      Tried to get pictures of Guarda Civilia but somehow chopped their heads off
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    Frómista, Fromista, 34440

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