Spain
Gaunas Park

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    • Day 10

      Day 7 Sansol to Logrono

      April 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

      Sansol to Torres del Rio to Vianna to Logroño. 14 miles today in about 5 hours. 35,401 steps, including a bit around Logrono for groceries and dinner (and finding my hostel, which was right in front of me the whole time). But the road around 7:15 today and walked a whole 1 km to the next town for breakfast. My usual Neapolitan pastry with cafe con leche. Two ~11 km (6.2 mile) stretches between towns today. Did the first one at a slower pace than normal to allow a friend who stayed 4 miles before Sansol to catch up at the next town. A pretty little stretch with lots of rolling hills. They call this segment the Knee Wrecker, which I thought odd since it is mild compared to the first 4 days. But my knees were pretty sore still, so maybe it’s the accumulation? Vianna was a nice town, and as the only rest/food pace today, pretty busy with pilgrims. It amazes me how these small towns can have such grand churches - 11 big alters in their main one and it was “just” an iglesia, not a catedral. There was also a ruin of a 15th century church that was really pretty, and still had some of its original murals despite being exposed to the elements. They sure knew how to build things. Pretty flat and not very exciting stretch into Logrono- pretty vineyards and grass fields leading into 2.5 miles of industrial park heading into Logrono. And one last big hill because why not?

      Right as we entered, a big group of kids - guessing 13 or 14 years old - mobbed us. At first I thought it was a pickpocket situation, but then a women came up to calm them and explained she was their English teacher taking them in a field trip along part of the Camino to experience it and practice their English. They were really fun and full of questions about America and the Camino (although one girl was clearly hoping I was British). One boy asked if I knew Colin from Michigan. Sadly I do not. They followed us into the city, mimicking our walk and pretending to have backpacks and poles. We felt like quite the celebrities! My hostel room is simple but nice with a wonderful 5 head shower that took me a bit to figure out. And it’s smack in the middle of Casco Antigua (the old medieval town). No sight-seeing today - just took a long shower, rested, ran a few errands and caught up with people back home. Met my friend for grocery shopping and dinner. Finally had some vegetables for dinner - a nice salmon, prawn and anchovy salad. It’s very carb heavy in the smaller towns, which is good for walking, cheap and yummy, but I was craving vegetables and protein.
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    • Day 11

      Bells

      June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      We have heard a lot of bells on our Camino.

      First it was mostly on animals: cows, sheep, and even some horses.

      Then it seemed like we always passed through a small village at the top of the hour and it was church bells.

      And lastly, Sean wears his two metal water bottles tied to a scarf so they hang down from his neck, and when they clang together they sound like the cow bells! (I’m certain there’s a great joke there, but I’m too tired to see it.)

      Looking forward to a few days in one place, dialysis a couple of times, and enjoying a hotel room with a great shower, a phone, and even a TV.

      p.s. Nancy, remember how surprised we were to discover that the first floor is “zero” and that the next floor up is “one”?!
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    • Day 13

      Dizzy as a Loon

      June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      Dialysis went well yesterday, particularly considering the language barrier. Everyone was very kind—doctor, nurses, technicians, and even patients. The other patients were very interested in where I was from and I was somewhat of a celebrity.

      Needless to say, I didn’t “fit right in” as you can see from the picture! Back home they put a stool out in front of my chair so that my feet can rest on it, rather than hanging for four hours. But here there is a foot stop, so my knees were bent for that time. I don’t think they get many patients this tall!

      Some medication they gave me caused me to be as dizzy as I’ve ever been, and for over 12 hours after. We won’t do that again on Friday!

      My weight gain was NOT bad considering that I hadn’t had dialysis in over a week—in fact, I’ve sometimes had more weight gain during my 3-day weekends at home.

      All is good. Sean and I are spoiled, but it will be good to be back on the Camino at the end of the week.
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    • Day 11

      Respect

      June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      I have sometimes felt embarrassed and disappointed in myself on this Camino.

      Taking a cab to finish the climb over the Pyrenees on our first day. Taking a cab to get from one side of Pamplona to the hospital on the other side. Taking both a taxi and a bus today.

      However, while walking today (deliberately in the wrong direction) we passed our good friends Carlo and Luigi! We explained our situation and in very halting and careful English, Luigi explained how much respect he had for us doing what we are doing.

      Very kind.

      And Luigi has military background (something that he and Sean have discussed at some length), so his salute to me was especially meaningful.

      Very gracious.
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    • Day 12

      Somewhere in between…

      June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      According to the stages that we have completed on the Camino, solely walking, we have walked 46.4 miles so far, plus a bit more for partial stages.

      According to my FitBit we have walked 81.93 miles so far.

      The truth lies somewhere in between.

      I have realized that the FitBit doesn’t really count distance—it counts steps and converts every 2,000 steps into 1 mile. The “miscalculation” becomes the much smaller steps that I am often taking: uphill, downhill on unsure footing, and even flat terrain when I am tired.

      It will be interesting to see what difference these upcoming dialysis sessions will make and how much further we will be able to go.
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    • Day 14

      Food

      June 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      Cousin Russ wrote that he thought he was gaining weight reading about our food experiences. Well, it’s a good thing we’re walking so much!

      What I’d read: meager breakfast, big meal at noon, pilgrim dinner (lower quality, lesser choices).

      Our experience: fresh-squeezed orange juice along with a fresh-baked, French-quality croissant, often with Spanish ham and cheese. Meager? Yeah, right! We’ll often grab a sandwich for lunch since we’re still walking and don’t want to fill up, but even then it’s Spanish ham and cheese on a French baguette. Ooh la la! And dinners! Three courses and the first course (often a salad for me) is usually as much as I would eat for an entire dinner at home. I feel bad leaving half of a course, but I simply can’t eat all of it!

      Again, it’s a good thing we’re walking!
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    • Day 11

      Thunder or Door?

      June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      Some of the doors here at Hotel Logrono close with such difficulty that they are hard to distinguish from the thunder outside. Hint: the doors make a louder, shorter sound, while the thunder makes a softer, longer rumbling sound.

      We have seen and heard many thunderstorms, but not been caught unprotected in any. A few raindrops here and there but usually gone by the time I can get my raincoat on and my rain cover over my backpack.

      Last night I was having difficulty getting to sleep. Very hot and humid. Then God sent a thunderstorm and it got considerably cooler and less humid. Thank you God!
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