Spain
Grandas de Salime

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    • Day 33

      J33 - Au col Alto de Aceibo

      September 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Le chemin continue à monter, et plus on grimpe, plus il y a de brouillard. On entend des éoliennes, mais on les voit peu, cachées par ce smog.

      J'ai retrouvé mes potes allemands Jürgen et Barbara, avec qui je vais marcher une bonne partie de la journée.

      Arrivés au sommet Alto de Aceibo peu après, nous quittons les Asturies pour entrer en Galice. Santiago, me voilà bientôt !! (Environ 160 km 😉)
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    • Day 8

      Grandas de Salime > Fonsagrada

      April 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      Awoke to the glorious chorus of someone's accidental 4:30am alarm which proceeded to blare for 2 long mins before they evidently realised it was theirs. BUT an otherwise fun day reaching Galacia aka km marker province ! Yet to spend more than 10 mins with a layer other than my t-shirt (but progress was made taking my poncho OUT my bag)... beginning to think I have a cold resistent genetic mutation? Then had a surprise reunion with a certain someone for which the bananas, water gun and dropped hummus shenanigans is a big giveaway 🤪Read more

    • Day 33

      J33 - Peñafuente

      September 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Le chemin se poursuit de chapelle et chapelle. Ca commence à grimper peu à peu, d'abord en bordure de route, puis par des petits chemins.

      Juste après Peñafuente, je discute un moment avec Maïda, une slovène.Read more

    • Day 29

      Grandas de Salime

      May 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Day 29
      Started in grey and wet bluster with lots of complaints from the walkers but none of them from my mouth! I love weather. I love the changeability of temperature, atmosphere ... of the feel, the challenge of it all. And it really really helps that I have great kit ... I even sang a little song to my super yellow storm umbrella. You are my sunshine ...

      Stumbled across a friendly Italian gent, Eduardo, while he was sheltering from the rain under the decrepit roof of the porch of a tiny chapel, and we walked most of the way together. He's carrying his tent and everything, impressively for a 73 year old, and - can you imagine - even including 'Prince of Wales' tea, which he then brewed up for me in his billy can at a little lunch stop we made. And he granted me a sliver of his precious parmigiano reggiano, brought with him from Italy and obviously the biggest treat of his hike! All I could offer him was black chocolate.
      Yes, he's smelling the moss (see pic). I like weird.

      A short day, 17km, essentially one huge up and one long down, followed by a little up-down. Now you know. All remote. The reservoir is (or was) the biggest in Europe, Eduardo told me, built in 1948, and villages up and down the valley had to be lost to the water. Isn't it a remarkable decision to do this? A bit like the HS2 project, at least for those who lose their homes, but there's something that feels really ancient and archetypal about this, intriguing, haunting, romantic even.

      Joy (China/ London) shared a room with me at the monastery on Day 12; she just turned up at this hostel. Surprise!
      Everyone else seems to be new. I find that also surprising, almost more so: I might meet no-one all day, or, as today, leapfrog many others (Danish, today, for the first time, and Dutch, Italian, Spanish, Romanian, don't know what else), but there must be a finite number of people on the trail!
      There's just one week left of the usual 'stages', the last 160km or so before Santiago, and I've been planning accommodation a bit more in advance than before. When we join the Camino Frances a few days before Santiago, there could be several hundred pilgrims in any one town, all simultaneously wanting a bed and food! Some of these will have walked a similar distance to me, from St Pied de Port in the French Pyrenees, but others only 100km, the distance that justifies receiving the Compostela certificate from the Cathedral.

      My application for Italian citizenship has at last at last at laaaaaaaaast been accepted, after months of hassle and anxiety about all the hoops to be jumped through. I've had to deal with additional elements of it several times in the last month, for hours in fact, on the road, when I was wishing I could be paying attention to nature and beauty and la-la-la ... (Thank you Luca for all your patient help). One of these days I shall be accepted as an Italian/and therefore also as a European. That day there will be beers all round, whoever I'm with!
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    • Day 6

      6. Tag Berducedo nach Grandas de Salime

      June 28 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      0km und 0 Höhenmeter
      Da mein Zeh nicht gut aussieht und ich nicht in meinen Wanderschuhe laufen kann ohne es zu verschlimmern, habe ich die heutige Etappe ausgesetzt. Also bin ich mit dem Taxi zum nächsten Etappenziel und dort zum Arzt. Jetzt habe ich ein Antibiotikum und desinfizierenden Verband bekommen und halte heute die Füße still. Ich habe gestern Abend einen super lieben Mann getroffen, der Schulbusfahrer ist und mich netterweise für wenig Geld nach Grandas gefahren hat. Unterwegs hat er sogar für Fotos angehalten und ist mit mir auf eine Aussichtsplattform gegangen ☺️
      Hoffentlich sieht die Welt morgen schon anders aus und ich kann einen Versuch wagen weiter zu laufen. Ich brauche ganz viele gedrückte Daumen, dass ich den Weg hier fortsetzen kann. Aufgeben ist für mich eigentlich keine Option. Zum Glück, habe ich etwas Puffer eingebaut 🙏🏼
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    • Day 6

      Day 22 Pola to Grandes de Salime 445km

      October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      So i had to wait until the bar opened at 7 so I could have breakfast. Said goodbye to Avril who was going by bus to Santiago and then fly to Southern Spain for some sun.

      The forecast is for rain the next week or so.
      Anyway, I headed out in the dark and rain.....
      I noticed 2 torchlights behind me. It was a couple the woman was from Hungary and the guy from Wales.

      I ended up walking with them the whole way up the mountain and down to the end.

      The fellow was like a mountaingoat. He said he goes on hikes at least once per week.

      So very steady climb....up and up and up. Honestly it was like hiking at the Roger's Pass except no coniferous trees.

      There were beautiful wild Heather and other flowers. Unfortunately you could not see very far because of the low clouds but it was beautiful.

      Apparently, this section is the most difficult on the whole Primitivo.😱

      All of my pictures are on my other phone that refuses to charge🙄 I am not happy about that at all !!!!😞

      I am hoping that it is just due to moisture because of all the rain but I did have it in a plastic bag so I don't know.....
      It was a spectacular mountain hiking day through beautiful forests.....
      And..... I didn't fall !!! ( which was a miracle)

      I will upload the pics if and when I can🤞☘️
      Very happy with my training zones. My pace reflects the difficulty.

      Good news here are the pics😍🥰👍
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    • Day 28

      La Mesa

      May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Day 28
      I actually overslept this morning, unbelievable, right, in a dorm, but felt so good when I woke up! The terrain was the hardest yet, with a huge ascent for the first half day, and a rain-wind storm at the top; tough going. But it was familiar mountainous walking, like the Alps perhaps, and I was alone ALL day ... apart from the moment I missed a turning, walked way down a forest path, and heard a voice shouting all sorts of things of which the only thing I understood was 'chica'! It was the forest ranger who had watched me wander off, came after me in his vehicle and gave me a lift back to the road. Rescued! Then I walked with an elderly Australian man for several miles until he stopped off at his accommodation; I sang my way downhill to my hostel. The cows are always intrigued when I sing.

      I was loving the patterns, tones and textures today. Fewer flowers but more lichen, moss and ferns. Loving the cloud, the sudden low visibility, the spit and blast of the changeable weather, the subdued light into the distant hills, the loneliness. Loved the ‘taixu’ tree. 1000 years old. Warm, there, safe.

      Just before bed I experienced a hostel classic. Three friends at one end of the 24 bed dorm opened the window, creating a draught; the two ladies beyond me but 4 beds away from the window area went to close it. Twice, both. Or was it three times. The 'Openers' objected, loudly, in bad English, the 'Closers' responded in similarly bad English, neither listening to the other of course, and no 'please can we... because..'. To and fro, voices raised, shouting, foreign incomprehensible aggression flying over my bed as each expressed their anger; the Closers went to get the Host who marched in and clapped it shut, muttering and tutting. The window-hoggers whose German I understood then worked out that if they lowered the external shutters the draught would be less noticeable, so plotted to open up again later ... which they did, I'm glad to say. Hostel muff is awful.

      It was a cartoon, would have been funny if it were not a really uncomfortable caricature of people's inability to treat each other as humans sharing the planet. Isn't it just like life? Sigh...
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    • Day 69

      Berducedo to Lugo

      July 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Down from the high plains to Bertucedo, followed by some big but beautiful days walking through Grandas de Salime, A Mesa, Fonsegrada, O Cadavo and A Lastra during which we left the principality of Asturias and entered Galicia.Read more

    • Day 5

      Day 5

      June 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      It's great to have a short hike, at the albergue by 2:30. I'm still high in the mountains, spent much of the morning walking through cloud, couldn't see more than 30 yards for the first couple of hrs. But once I got through the clouds it was class. The albergue is so cool, it's the old brick building, maybe the last photo.Read more

    • Day 7

      On the camino, down

      September 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Down, down always down; 800m descending in 7km. The weather is damp and the mist is thick and we are walking down hill on scree paths and wet natural slabs of slate. The consequence was inevitable and I lost my dignity once. In some treacherous areas there were regular shouts from lines of horizontal pilgrims all soaking up the mud. We dragged one lady up out of the vegetation by passing her our poles to grab onto. She had slipped and fallen and her very large rucksack, with the help of gravity, had deposited her downhill into the wet scrub where she flailed about like an up-ended tortoise. The profanities emanating from the scrub appeared to sound Eastern European and the fact we got no thanks or signs of gratitude for dragging her back onto the path sort of confirms my prejudice.Read more

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