• Nipawin
Oct – Nov 2023

Primitivo

A 31-day adventure by Nipawin Read more
  • Trip start
    October 9, 2023
    Cathedral in Oviedo
    Missing clasp from chest strapLeaving Comillas by taxi to train stationWaiting for trainLoads of people out on a SundayInteresting statueView from my roomView other way

    Day 16 Train from Comilles to Oviedo

    October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Woke up early and had breakfast with other Pilgrims.

    Lots of Pilgrims with sore knees and heels etc some are taking rest days or going home or shortening their daily mileage
    It continues to be scorching hot.
    That is a very serious issue for walking.

    I also noticed I am missing the clasp on my chest strap for my pack......any suggestions?

    It was 30 C in Oviedo this afternoon.

    While I waited for the train
    a cab pulled up at the station and this little woman got out. It was Hiker the lady from Germany who had lent me her phone in order to get into my Albergue when mine died!!!
    She was starting her walk from there. We hugged and laughed and then she was on her way. She said she was so happy to see me again. A gift from above she said💖

    The train ride was 3 hours. Saw some beautiful sites.

    After I arrived in Olveido , II walked 1 1/2 km to my place. Then off to see the Cathedral. It was closed unfortunately. How could it be closed on a Sunday??

    There were so many people out and about because it was Sunday.

    I have 25 km tomorrow and am really looking forward to it.

    It will be nice to return to trees and mountains.
    Not too many pics today.
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  • Day 17 Oviedo to Grado 353.8 km

    October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Left at 7 am after a great sleep.

    It was quite challenging getting out of the city. I think it took around 45 minutes .

    I finally saw 2 pilgrims who breezed by me walking very quickly.

    The trail is marked with bronze shells embedded in the sidewalk.
    After that there were sign posts. So already it is fairly easy to follow the way.

    It was quite chilly this morning. I was wearing my T-shirt. Maybe I will be using my merino wool after all.🤔

    The air smelled great. I was so happy to be on dirt paths and in the trees. The countryside is lovely.

    I kept seeing more pilgrims throughout the day.....probably 20 or more. Most are Spanish I would say.

    There is also a big French group. So it definitely is busier here than the Norte.

    I am also discouraged at the problem of not having enough. accommodation as well. I remember the same problem on the Camino Frances. last year but I thought it wouldn't extend to this Camino as well.

    It has prevented me from tackling a route I really wanted to do. But so it is. I am trying not to let it get to me.

    Very hot at the end of the day 30 C I believe. I have a sun protection T-shirt that I wear but the rays just penetrate right through you.

    Ready for a good night's sleep🤗
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  • 267 seems OK
    On the roadBeautiful sightsSo the red line through the name means you are leaving the town 😉No burros just cows todayBridge over a river coming into townMy breakfastChurch being restoredNote all the concrete on the sides of the hillCool bridge...not a great pictureSalas Market

    Day 18 Grado to Salas 377km

    October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Slept well. Up at 530. It was a cute place with a clothes line out the window very convenient.

    Off in the dark and had someone redirect me. Nope I still suck at navigation🙄

    The stars were out and I saw all of my favs. It was straight up a mountain.

    Now I am enjoying other Pilgrims as they can help me with my navigation. 👍 I am going through withdrawal from the constant fear of being off course on the Norte🧐 I am slowly trusting the posts....it's a process.😉😂

    Really loved the variety of the day. I had a tortilla bocadillio.
    Delicious.

    I have a picture of how they have protected the landscape by using cement . Quite something to see.

    I saw my black cat today.

    I spoke to a really nice girl from. The Czech Republic.

    Most pilgrims passing me were speaking Spanish.

    Huge problem with booking rooms due to the Spanish Holiday on the 12 the. Some Albergues are closed for it,!!
    I contacted over 5 different places and they had no availability.

    I am forced to take a rest day. Which is not a bad thing at all😉
    But it's all part of this experience

    It was very hazy today. I thought it might be smoke,?
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  • Day 19 Salas to Tineo 398 km

    October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    So I learned that one must ensure that your Camelback drinking valve is closed before one goes to bed 😱
    What a mess!!? I began the day trying to dry my pack and contents.

    After that it was great. Beautiful starry sky. The trail was very steep and rocky.

    I walked with A vril who has a Texas address but has been in Europe for the past 9 months. She was so interesting.

    The scenery continues to be stunning I saw the 2 guys running the Camino again!!I I seealso saw 3 guys on bikes.

    I got in at 130 which was great.
    Very crowded tonight no available beds.

    Saw my black cat and got a great picture.
    A very hot day up to 30 C
    It should be cooler tomorrow and rain forecasted for Friday.

    Claudia from the Czech Republic is staying here. She took a picture of a Linden tree. Apparently the leaves are in the shape of a heart💖
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  • Day 20 Tineo to Pola 426.6km

    October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Packed Albergue last night Very loud and inconsiderate people.... I won't get into details but I would not stay there again.

    I saw the biggest spider at breakfast😱

    Beautiful clear morning to walk. Again straight up the mountain. Took some great photos.

    Could hear the windmills whoosh as they turned.

    Lots of cows all wearing bells. No burros yet. Lots of sheep and goats.

    As you can see with my Garmin up and down all day. Love the countryside🤗.

    I did fall due to stupid gravel 😳But, I had on my knee support so it actually helped not to scrape it as badly. Darn! But in all honesty it is very rocky and tricky terrain due to the steep inclines and declines. It could have been a lot worse for sure.

    Pola is a very cute town. I have a rest day tomorrow so I am very happy to take it easy after a long day today. Also to rest my knee🍀🙏
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  • View of stream that runs through town
    Little white van that delivers bread to patronsPote Asturia soupChurch in town

    Day 21 Rest Day Pola

    October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Lovely peaceful sleep.
    Woke up at usual 530 but went back to sleep until 7am

    Came downstairs for cafe con leche and toast

    Spent the rest of the day journaling and catching up on correspondence.

    I can't believe how tired I feel.

    I treated myself to a wonderful cabbage/ potato soup for lunch with Chorizo called Pote Asturiana. Wonderful.

    Met Avril she is heading down to Valencia due to rain forecast for the next week or so

    It was great catching up with her. She actually saw a snake today,! Also she was caught in a group of anxious cattle that had escaped out of their field. She got a great video😉

    So tomorrow is a huge day with the elevation climb over 1100 meters. Rain and wind are forecasted.....TBC
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  • Alex from HungaryRocky trailMisty mountain. Similar to climbing Mt. RevyHorse tracks up hereCool mushroomAgain must and fogHorse tracksVery tough going down thisSilly me with my rain coat around my waistHeather and other alpine flowersChurch at the summitNo view todayBack to the forest

    Day 22 Pola to Grandes de Salime 445km

    October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    So i had to wait until the bar opened at 7 so I could have breakfast. Said goodbye to Avril who was going by bus to Santiago and then fly to Southern Spain for some sun.

    The forecast is for rain the next week or so.
    Anyway, I headed out in the dark and rain.....
    I noticed 2 torchlights behind me. It was a couple the woman was from Hungary and the guy from Wales.

    I ended up walking with them the whole way up the mountain and down to the end.

    The fellow was like a mountaingoat. He said he goes on hikes at least once per week.

    So very steady climb....up and up and up. Honestly it was like hiking at the Roger's Pass except no coniferous trees.

    There were beautiful wild Heather and other flowers. Unfortunately you could not see very far because of the low clouds but it was beautiful.

    Apparently, this section is the most difficult on the whole Primitivo.😱

    All of my pictures are on my other phone that refuses to charge🙄 I am not happy about that at all !!!!😞

    I am hoping that it is just due to moisture because of all the rain but I did have it in a plastic bag so I don't know.....
    It was a spectacular mountain hiking day through beautiful forests.....
    And..... I didn't fall !!! ( which was a miracle)

    I will upload the pics if and when I can🤞☘️
    Very happy with my training zones. My pace reflects the difficulty.

    Good news here are the pics😍🥰👍
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  • Day 23 Grandes to Fonsagrada 472 km

    October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    It was a very strange place I stayed at the Occidente Albergue. I did not see any other Pilgrims at all. The whole place smelled of fried fish!
    Everything was closed because it was a Sunday excluding 2 bars.

    Anyway I left at 730. Extremely misty! So much so that I couldn't see anything with my headlamp. Just like poor visibility with fog and snow.

    It finally lightened up and surprise a tiny little casa came into sight and I had cafe con leche🥰

    Very beautiful countryside as you can see from my pictures.

    I must add that there was a steep climb of at least 1 km up into the town. It is built up on a hill. Not a very attractive place at all.
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  • Day 24 Fonsagrada to O Cadavo 497.7km

    October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Left after breakfast of Japanese noodles. Very easy to find the way except at one point when a man walking his two retrievers stopped to direct me.

    Beautiful sunrise. It threatened rain but only sprinkled.

    Basically the Primitivo is climbing up a mountain and then back down over and over again😉

    Feeling a bit tired. "Delayed Onset Fatigue" for sure.
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  • Day 25 O Cadavo to Lugo 529.7 km

    October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    This was a very long stage but very scenic.

    There was only one bar to get food and drinks so it was a challenge mentally as well as physically.

    The weather was pretty good. It did not rain. It was 17 C so very warm. There were huge wind gusts that came out of nowhere it seems.

    Lugo is the Capital and very beautiful. The Cathedral is magnificent. But I only took a picture as it was pouring rain. There is a medieval wall built around a section of the city centre.
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  • Day 26 Lugo to Ferreira 556km

    October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I had a good sleep. We were in a room of 12 beds all used.

    Said "Goodbye" to many of my friends as they decided to go further today than I.
    Roberto from Italy, Peter from UK, and Pierre from Salzburg France.

    Beautiful walk today . The forecast was for rain but it only rained for a short while. The sun even came out 😎

    I loved hearing the ducks on the river as I walked along it. Also the birds....

    The scenery is changing and I am feeling sad that tomorrow will be my last day on the Primitivo. 😥 We join the Camino Francis in Melide.
    More people and paved roads.
    I am less than 100 km to Santiago.

    I met a threesome from Argentina (mother/daughter) and a friend. They started in Lugo. If you walk 100 km you are entitled to a certificate.
    So more pilgrims have joined our path because they started there. Sarria is another popular starting point for a certificate.

    Reached the Albergue. They only serve breakfast which is great because there isn't any supermercados ( grocery store)
    here.

    But there was a bar next door. I had the best freshly made Tortilla!!! There is enough for lunch tomorrow).

    Had a great chat with John from Taiwan He walked 26 km for his first day!! It is just pouring tonight and I asked about his rain gear....he has a coat but no pack cover. I gave him mine as I haven't used it all trip except at the airport. I can get another no problem

    Oh yes there was a Korean massage fellow who massaged my feet and calves tonight. He loves Disney and sang along to The Circle Of Life Song😅
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  • Day 27 Ferreira to Melide 578 km

    October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    OK today was the worst weather I have walked so far this trip.
    It poured with rain and wind for 3 1/2 hours. There was nowhere to stop until 15km. I powered through it listening to Carrie Underwood. 💪 The saving grace was that it was relatively flat so I could pick up my pace to just over 13 min/ km.

    At one point I saw 3 pilgrims huddled in the middle of the road.....I thought there might be a problem but no....they were taking a smoke break😅

    Very muddy and water flowing everywhere! Reminded me of hiking on the West Coast Trail😂🤣 Except more road walking.
    Not many pictures because of the weather.

    When I did stop at the bar my gang was all there happy to see one another and complain about the weather. Some were actually hypothermic which was not good at all.
    I saw Claudia again she was freezing. I luckily had 2 layers of my merino wool long sleeved tops which really worked well👍

    After my break the rain stopped and the sun came out for a brief while.

    Coming into Melide you could see a lot of Pilgrims. You had to be super careful on the roads as the drivers DO NOT YIELD TO Pilgrims😱😡

    I met a lovely couple from Montana.
    AND John is here!! He made great time. So nice to check in with him again. He gave me the link to his hiking group in Taiwan on the Meet up site

    I am staying at the same Albergue that I stayed at last year. It is wonderful🤗

    Just chilling now. There is a Pilgrims service at 8 pm that I am going to try and go to.

    My wet boots created a few more blisters for me 😳

    Anja sent me a pic of a baby burro. I will include it😍

    So I have officially completed the Primitivo👏😂💪
    But I am sad😥 as it was really spectacular🥳
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  • Had my lunch here
    Out buildingsGlimmer of blue skyBlue window town. Note how high the water isNo mountains😥Grove of treesGrove of treesView from my room windowScallops and Fantastic Salad 😍Right to left- Denise me, and StaceyFunny waiter at the restaurant

    Day 28 Melide to Salcema 604 km

    October 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I must apologize as I did complete the Primitivo however I am continuing to walk. I am not completely finished walking yet. I am now on the Camino Francis route to Santiago 27 km away but I am doing it in 2 days as I have had some rather hard days.

    Pouring with rain this morning so there are not many pictures.

    It did stop off and on and gradually improved towards the afternoon.

    I can't believe how many bars are on this section
    There are so many more pilgrims. The atmosphere is different. Some people don't even say "Hola" when you great them🤔

    The landscape is so flat now. I walked by an active logging site:
    Falling, removing branches, decking and loading. Unsure of the type of trees as it was dark.
    Very interesting.

    Beautiful scents from the eucalyptus trees.

    I saw my first pilgrim with a dog walking. It barked excessively at me..... The owner said it was a lovely rescue dog that sometimes does that to people🧐 It was part blue heeler so no surprise.

    I am staying at an Albergue that I stayed at last year. It is close to the restaurant with the excellent food. I met Stacey from Maine and Denise from the Hamburg area, and we went out for a fantastic dinner. Fresh scallops and the best salad with goat cheese I have had in Spain yet👏🥳 Delicious!!

    2 more sleeps until Santiago. It will be so fun as Denise, Stacey and I will see Mass together on Sunday. The botafumeira will be used.
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  • Day 29 Salcema to Lavacolla 622

    October 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I began my day with an amazing breakfast 😍 See pics. It was at the restaurant where we had dinner at last night.

    I could almost see my breath this morning🥺 I am so happy that I have my merino wool clothes and down vest. Some of my friends on the Del Norte sent all of their warm clothes home during the heat wave🤔

    Beautiful peaceful walk until a couple of kms from Lavacolla. Huge groups of cyclists with no bells. I am sure they are going to hit a Pilgrim 😱 They are terrifying.....no respect for walkers at all.

    I also saw a large group of Japanese people and a woman that looked like she was in her 80' s. WOW!!! More and more people appeared. It is very crowded at the Albergue tonight.

    I met a couple from New Brunswick that have done 7 Camino' s. The one they are completing now started in Lourdes. They talked a lot about that experience and said it was very beautiful. That is where I am considering to go after walking. I am also considering Fatima in Portugal.

    I loved the scent of the eucalyptus trees🥰

    I lost my second headlamp🙄

    Tomorrow Santiago😅👍👏🥳
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  • Day 30 Lavacolla to Santiago 632 km

    October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Started my walk into Santiago in the dark using the flashlight on my phone because I lost my second headlamp🥺

    Clear night and the sky was lit with stars. All of the winter star sky😍. It was beautiful....

    I heard an owl either catch something or it was a screech owl? I am unsure....I also heard one hooting. It truly was magical.

    I did go off track..but discovered the error very quickly.

    Marched into Santiago and arrived at the Pilgrims office just when it was opening at 9.

    I was so happy to receive my Compostela 😅👏

    Then I had breakfast. Delicious.

    When I walked back down to the Cathedral at 10 there was an enormous line. I thought it was for the Noon Mass so I stood in line as well. When I got to the front I was told it was the wrong lineup and had to walk to the opposite side of the Cathedral. I was successful in getting in and a great seat

    It was a packed service. The highlight was the Botafumeira.
    Please watch the video on the wiki link....it is so cool.

    https://es.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botafumeiro

    They obviously do not have smoke detectors in the Cathedral🤣 I wondered about people with asthma🤔 It was so smokey with the strong smell of Frankincense incense. What an experience😁

    Afterwards I met up with Stacey and Denise, Debra and Jennifer.
    I had what was called a warm salad. Spinach, mushrooms onions and carrots topped with buffalo milk mozzarella cheese!!
    Wowsers👍 It was so good🥰

    I then found my Albergue and figured out my next adventure.
    I am taking a rest day tomorrow then walking to the Coast Muxia and then Finisterre.

    I saw John at the Supermercados tonight. He did so well!! But he's very tired....like me. I am in a 4 bunk bed room. Hopefully I will sleep well tonight🤞🍀
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  • Day 31 Rest Day in Santiago

    October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I had a great sleep. It was awesome to just take my time getting up and going
    I had a delightful morning chatting with Marissa from New Jersey. She is an artist and I w pmas privileged to see her start a postcard picture first by drawing it and then using watercolour pencil crayons. Absolutely amazing!!!!

    I then went out and did some errands I sent 1.76 kg of my stuff home to lighten my pack😉👍

    I also had my first churro with a raspberry centre🥰🤗

    I toured the cathedral and saw the tomb of St James. "The Door Of Forgiveness" was open so I was able to go behind the sculpture of Jesus.....very cool!
    My friend went on the tour of the cathedral on the roof and was terrified. She did get some amazing pictures though. She has a best friend who lives in Spooke. They went to art school togeher.

    The sun came out today......that was a great event😎

    It is supposed to rain tomorrow Surprise Surprise!!!! I will head out hiking to Muxia which is on the coast. Stacey is there right now for a few days before she heads back to Maine on Wednesday.

    I think that is about all for now. I hope I will be able to take a few pictures tomorrow🍀🤞🙏😅
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  • Day 32 Santiago to Negeria 654.5 km

    October 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Did not want to get out of bed this morning. I was very "Cosy, Cosy"🤗

    But I did and joined the guy from Belgium and the two Italian women who were up as well
    We left for Muxia around 7 am

    It was a very wet walk with much appreciated sunny breaks😎
    I absolutely love my new headlamp😍 The lowest setting on it is as bright as the highest setting on my other one for sure👍 Thank-you Marissa 💖

    I had a freshly made Tortilla for my breakfast 😍 I never get tired of them.

    I also met a fellow, Patrick, from Ireland that has done the Camino 18 times! His first Camino was 22 years ago. He has seen many changes over the years.

    Our Albergue tonight is perfect. Hot showers ..... 2 sixty gallon tanks. No messing around with that here 😅

    My boots are filled with newspaper hoping they dry somewhat overnight🤞🍀🙏

    There must be at least 20 people here tonight. I am quite surprised because the weather is so poor and it's almost the end of October!

    Not too many pics today....
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  • Day 33 Negerie to A Maronas 679 km

    October 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    So.....I thought I had experienced my worst day of weather but I was wrong. I think this is Day 10 of rain.

    The morning started out great. Then it deteriorated into pouring continuously. I kept hoping it would improve......but it rained harder and the wind picked up nearly blowing my hat off!!

    I was thoroughly wet at 10 km. By 22 km my feet were swimming in water..... My poor feet😥 They have taken the brunt of all this rain. But here's to Merino Wool and keeping me toastie warm🥰💪

    Anyway, I can't believe how many other Pilgrims were out slogging away in this wading pool of water and mud.

    At one point I started laughing out loud at how I have paid to be here on this Camino. It is just like Nanaimo weather only it is much warmer 16 C....but still how funny is this😂🤣😂

    I saw a group of people on horseback doing the Camino. The picture was taken from my refuge in a bus shelter🥺 I ate my avocado ,/pavo (turkey) sandwich there.

    So.....it is going to be worse tomorrow. I am not a quitter however I am not going to put my poor body through the extra burden of dealing with the wet (my poor soggy sore feet!). It is not worth it,!! Besides I have walked almost 700 km

    Enter Plan B. I am taking the bus to Santiago tomorrow,and spending the night. I will then bus to Porto Portugal the next day September 27.

    I might as well see something new and exciting. It is raining everywhere although Barcelona and Valencia have sun I think.

    I hope you get the drift of how wet it can be.....socked in for sure🙄
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  • My Albergue tonight

    Day 34 A Maronas to Santiago

    October 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    So in the Spanish culture, they like to close their windows and shutters at nigh.t very tightly. There is absolutely no way any fresh air can come into their casas.
    Well, last night my bed was right beside a window and I was able to leave it open🤠 .....until this little Spanish face appears asking me to close it. I said I could not breath without it open ( which is true because the room smelled 😳)
    Then Mark came over and said he was so happy I kept it open. But I did feel a wee bit bad....but I got over it😉

    Mark and I walked 800 meters to flag down the bus going to Santiago. It was just pouring!!!

    We asked the lady at the Bar where we were waiting about the bus and she told us that it wasn't coming anytime soon. "Plan B," was to call a taxi to the next town. She called 5 different drivers and they did not have any time to help us.
    Then all of a sudden the phone rang and we had a cab🤗

    He also drove us directly to Santiago Bus station. It was great sharing the cost it helped a lot.
    I bought my ticket to Porto for tomorrow and walked to my Albergue.

    The sun came out this afternoon which was very much appreciated😎

    I really did not see any photo opps today except the 2 I posted

    I miss my daily 5 hour walks already☹️

    It is presently 7:30 pm and Pilgrims are still arriving at this hostel It is jammed packed!!! I cannot remember it being this busy last year.🤔🧐
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  • Day 36 Santiago to Porto Portugal

    October 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    It was not raining when I walked to the bus depot 😁

    I had my morning cafe con leche and am now waiting for the bus to Porto.

    Very comfortable bus ride. Met a mother /daughter from Bavaria. They had just completed the Porto Camino.

    Got off at the bus depot and saw that my hostel was 2 . 5 km away. I started walking....and saw the train/ Metro station. I found an information booth and was able to ride the subway close to my hostel.

    I wanted to check-in but I didn't realize that Porto is an hour behind Espana so had to wait.

    I decided to eat and ordered a delicious fish dish called Pataniscis with tomato rice.

    I went back to the hostel " So Cool Hostel" only to find it was the wrong one😳 The one I was booked at was called " Cool Hostel". But it was easy to hop on the metro for another couple of stops.

    When I got off I was inundated with all of these people. It was a street that was a mall ( no cars) and it was very crowded.
    There was a street vendor selling castanats which are roasted chesnuts. They roast them on briquets. They tasted like potatoes to me🤔

    I found my hostel got settled then did laundry. The owner was doing laundry and filling Ikea bags....where is there an Ikea here?

    Went to bed early as I was very tired.
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  • Day 37 Porto 699 km

    October 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    I had a great sleep. I finally broke down and bought some Nescafe coffee🤠

    We have breakfast at this hostel which is lovely.

    I left around 9:30 and came home around 5 pm.

    I walked 20 km today just seeing all the sights 🤗 It would rain pretty hard and then stop so we had some breaks even with some sun in between which was great.

    It was very crowded probably because it was a Saturday, and there were just many tourists ( mostly French) many with young families.
    There were lineups everywhere.
    I would say it is much more crowded than in Santiago for sure.

    I also walked a km or 2 on the Porto Camino.....I miss seeing my daily dose of arrows🤔

    Upon reviewing my pictures for the day I am quite disappointed as most of them are very dulll due to the cloud cover😥
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  • Dqy 38 Porto 711 km

    October 29, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Chatted a long while with Carla from Chile. She was telling me all about her country.....Yup I would love to go there👍

    I walked over to the famous library " Livraria Lello" that inspired J. R. Rowlings Hogwarts library in the Harry Potter series.
    I felt like a sardine in a tin with the hoards of people. The lineups were phenomenal to get in. Beautiful architecture inside. Well worth the wait and 8 Euros. I have never seen anything like it.

    I then proceeded to another lineup to see the Cllerigos Church andu Tower.
    Very beautiful.

    I will say it is expensive to be a tourist with most admissions being 8 Euros🤔

    When I was walking back to the hostel I heard a lot of shouting. There was a huge protest in front of the city hall. I am thinking it may be related to the Palestine issue? The participants were all young people dressed in black

    I have an early flight tomorrow to Bilbao.
    Porto was a great place to visit.
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  • Day 39 Porto- Madrid- Bilbao 735km

    October 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I walked down to the bus stop and caught the 5 am bus to the airport. What a great service for 2.50 Euros.

    Very smooth check in and through Security. I had to catch a connecting flight in Madrid.
    Madrid airport is like a small city.
    It is enormous

    Bilbao was sunny and very warm when I arrived I enjoyed walking around and seeing the canal again.

    My hostel experience will go down in history as one of the worst..... let's leave it at that. I am very sleep deprived at present🥺

    I take the bus to Hendaye tomorrow and then the train to Lourdes France. I decided to stay 4 days there and I am so happy that I did🤗
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  • Hill we walked up on the NorteMon trenSo happy to finally see my destinationMy first glimpse of the cathedralAlter after serviceLights turned off for the nightOutsideuralBeside other muralVirgin Mary at the Grotto for evening MassNote woman with baby on her backCandle lit ProcessionTrail of lightBehind the candles to the left is actual place of sighting

    Day 40 Bilbao - Lourdes France 750km

    October 31, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I am always learning on this trip especially about other Cultures like the French for example.

    They are very proud of their language and generally do not like to converse with anyone who doesn't speak French.

    Some do not wish to engage with apps such as Google Translate..,.leaving someone like me in a pickle when delays happen and connections missed😳 and new tickets need to be purchased because there is no WIFI to use on ones phone.

    My train was delayed an hour which created a situation of missing a connection. Luckily I figured it out and bought another ticket before the train left the station.

    The terrain was relatively flat for the most part . As we got closer to Lourdes you could se the Pyrenese Mountains topped with snow. Stunning countryside. I also saw a very fast flowing river with kayakers on it.

    It is very tricky getting to Lourdes.The train lines are the only way in and out unless you have a car. I found out by accident that the train line that takes me out will not be operating this weekend 😱
    I had to book a day early to leave and forfeit a train and Pension reservation😳 Oh well, I will be spending an extra day in Burgos👍😉

    After I checked in I went to the cathedral and attended a sung Mass. Absolutely beautiful acoustics with the organ and voices of the priests and congregation.

    Afterwards I had a bite to eat and headed back to the Grotto ( where Bernadette saw the Virgin Mary) for the evening procession. It was a such a feeling of connection with people from all over the world standing with lit candles. There must have been over 200 people and this is the end of the busy season!
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  • The sun came out briefly

    Day 41 Lourdes

    October 31, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    It is pouring rain and extremely cold.

    I am huddled in my sleeping bag wearing all the clothes that I brought. I am sitting in the front lobby area drinking my instant coffee.

    I went to Mass this morning and it was quite pleasant but now....well let's say I am dreaming of Mexico😎

    I did ask the housekeeper about a plug for the bathtub and she said No🫤

    That's OK it will make it that much better when I have my hot shower.....in Burgos hopefully 🍀

    Even in the pouring rain people are still filling their containers with water and visiting the Grotto. There must have been over 200 people at the sung Mass service.

    Getting ready for travel day tomorrow..... Lourdes - Irun -Burgos.
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