Primitivo

October - November 2023
A 31-day adventure by Nipawin Read more
  • 29footprints
  • 3countries
  • 31days
  • 424photos
  • 0videos
  • 11.7kkilometers
  • 9.6kkilometers
  • Day 16 Train from Comilles to Oviedo

    October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Woke up early and had breakfast with other Pilgrims.

    Lots of Pilgrims with sore knees and heels etc some are taking rest days or going home or shortening their daily mileage
    It continues to be scorching hot.
    That is a very serious issue for walking.

    I also noticed I am missing the clasp on my chest strap for my pack......any suggestions?

    It was 30 C in Oviedo this afternoon.

    While I waited for the train
    a cab pulled up at the station and this little woman got out. It was Hiker the lady from Germany who had lent me her phone in order to get into my Albergue when mine died!!!
    She was starting her walk from there. We hugged and laughed and then she was on her way. She said she was so happy to see me again. A gift from above she said💖

    The train ride was 3 hours. Saw some beautiful sites.

    After I arrived in Olveido , II walked 1 1/2 km to my place. Then off to see the Cathedral. It was closed unfortunately. How could it be closed on a Sunday??

    There were so many people out and about because it was Sunday.

    I have 25 km tomorrow and am really looking forward to it.

    It will be nice to return to trees and mountains.
    Not too many pics today.
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  • Day 1

    Day 17 Oviedo to Grado 353.8 km

    October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Left at 7 am after a great sleep.

    It was quite challenging getting out of the city. I think it took around 45 minutes .

    I finally saw 2 pilgrims who breezed by me walking very quickly.

    The trail is marked with bronze shells embedded in the sidewalk.
    After that there were sign posts. So already it is fairly easy to follow the way.

    It was quite chilly this morning. I was wearing my T-shirt. Maybe I will be using my merino wool after all.🤔

    The air smelled great. I was so happy to be on dirt paths and in the trees. The countryside is lovely.

    I kept seeing more pilgrims throughout the day.....probably 20 or more. Most are Spanish I would say.

    There is also a big French group. So it definitely is busier here than the Norte.

    I am also discouraged at the problem of not having enough. accommodation as well. I remember the same problem on the Camino Frances. last year but I thought it wouldn't extend to this Camino as well.

    It has prevented me from tackling a route I really wanted to do. But so it is. I am trying not to let it get to me.

    Very hot at the end of the day 30 C I believe. I have a sun protection T-shirt that I wear but the rays just penetrate right through you.

    Ready for a good night's sleep🤗
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  • Day 2

    Day 18 Grado to Salas 377km

    October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Slept well. Up at 530. It was a cute place with a clothes line out the window very convenient.

    Off in the dark and had someone redirect me. Nope I still suck at navigation🙄

    The stars were out and I saw all of my favs. It was straight up a mountain.

    Now I am enjoying other Pilgrims as they can help me with my navigation. 👍 I am going through withdrawal from the constant fear of being off course on the Norte🧐 I am slowly trusting the posts....it's a process.😉😂

    Really loved the variety of the day. I had a tortilla bocadillio.
    Delicious.

    I have a picture of how they have protected the landscape by using cement . Quite something to see.

    I saw my black cat today.

    I spoke to a really nice girl from. The Czech Republic.

    Most pilgrims passing me were speaking Spanish.

    Huge problem with booking rooms due to the Spanish Holiday on the 12 the. Some Albergues are closed for it,!!
    I contacted over 5 different places and they had no availability.

    I am forced to take a rest day. Which is not a bad thing at all😉
    But it's all part of this experience

    It was very hazy today. I thought it might be smoke,?
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  • Day 3

    Day 19 Salas to Tineo 398 km

    October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    So I learned that one must ensure that your Camelback drinking valve is closed before one goes to bed 😱
    What a mess!!? I began the day trying to dry my pack and contents.

    After that it was great. Beautiful starry sky. The trail was very steep and rocky.

    I walked with A vril who has a Texas address but has been in Europe for the past 9 months. She was so interesting.

    The scenery continues to be stunning I saw the 2 guys running the Camino again!!I I seealso saw 3 guys on bikes.

    I got in at 130 which was great.
    Very crowded tonight no available beds.

    Saw my black cat and got a great picture.
    A very hot day up to 30 C
    It should be cooler tomorrow and rain forecasted for Friday.

    Claudia from the Czech Republic is staying here. She took a picture of a Linden tree. Apparently the leaves are in the shape of a heart💖
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  • Day 4

    Day 20 Tineo to Pola 426.6km

    October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Packed Albergue last night Very loud and inconsiderate people.... I won't get into details but I would not stay there again.

    I saw the biggest spider at breakfast😱

    Beautiful clear morning to walk. Again straight up the mountain. Took some great photos.

    Could hear the windmills whoosh as they turned.

    Lots of cows all wearing bells. No burros yet. Lots of sheep and goats.

    As you can see with my Garmin up and down all day. Love the countryside🤗.

    I did fall due to stupid gravel 😳But, I had on my knee support so it actually helped not to scrape it as badly. Darn! But in all honesty it is very rocky and tricky terrain due to the steep inclines and declines. It could have been a lot worse for sure.

    Pola is a very cute town. I have a rest day tomorrow so I am very happy to take it easy after a long day today. Also to rest my knee🍀🙏
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  • Day 5

    Day 21 Rest Day Pola

    October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Lovely peaceful sleep.
    Woke up at usual 530 but went back to sleep until 7am

    Came downstairs for cafe con leche and toast

    Spent the rest of the day journaling and catching up on correspondence.

    I can't believe how tired I feel.

    I treated myself to a wonderful cabbage/ potato soup for lunch with Chorizo called Pote Asturiana. Wonderful.

    Met Avril she is heading down to Valencia due to rain forecast for the next week or so

    It was great catching up with her. She actually saw a snake today,! Also she was caught in a group of anxious cattle that had escaped out of their field. She got a great video😉

    So tomorrow is a huge day with the elevation climb over 1100 meters. Rain and wind are forecasted.....TBC
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  • Day 6

    Day 22 Pola to Grandes de Salime 445km

    October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    So i had to wait until the bar opened at 7 so I could have breakfast. Said goodbye to Avril who was going by bus to Santiago and then fly to Southern Spain for some sun.

    The forecast is for rain the next week or so.
    Anyway, I headed out in the dark and rain.....
    I noticed 2 torchlights behind me. It was a couple the woman was from Hungary and the guy from Wales.

    I ended up walking with them the whole way up the mountain and down to the end.

    The fellow was like a mountaingoat. He said he goes on hikes at least once per week.

    So very steady climb....up and up and up. Honestly it was like hiking at the Roger's Pass except no coniferous trees.

    There were beautiful wild Heather and other flowers. Unfortunately you could not see very far because of the low clouds but it was beautiful.

    Apparently, this section is the most difficult on the whole Primitivo.😱

    All of my pictures are on my other phone that refuses to charge🙄 I am not happy about that at all !!!!😞

    I am hoping that it is just due to moisture because of all the rain but I did have it in a plastic bag so I don't know.....
    It was a spectacular mountain hiking day through beautiful forests.....
    And..... I didn't fall !!! ( which was a miracle)

    I will upload the pics if and when I can🤞☘️
    Very happy with my training zones. My pace reflects the difficulty.

    Good news here are the pics😍🥰👍
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  • Day 7

    Day 23 Grandes to Fonsagrada 472 km

    October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    It was a very strange place I stayed at the Occidente Albergue. I did not see any other Pilgrims at all. The whole place smelled of fried fish!
    Everything was closed because it was a Sunday excluding 2 bars.

    Anyway I left at 730. Extremely misty! So much so that I couldn't see anything with my headlamp. Just like poor visibility with fog and snow.

    It finally lightened up and surprise a tiny little casa came into sight and I had cafe con leche🥰

    Very beautiful countryside as you can see from my pictures.

    I must add that there was a steep climb of at least 1 km up into the town. It is built up on a hill. Not a very attractive place at all.
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  • Day 8

    Day 24 Fonsagrada to O Cadavo 497.7km

    October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Left after breakfast of Japanese noodles. Very easy to find the way except at one point when a man walking his two retrievers stopped to direct me.

    Beautiful sunrise. It threatened rain but only sprinkled.

    Basically the Primitivo is climbing up a mountain and then back down over and over again😉

    Feeling a bit tired. "Delayed Onset Fatigue" for sure.
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  • Day 9

    Day 25 O Cadavo to Lugo 529.7 km

    October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    This was a very long stage but very scenic.

    There was only one bar to get food and drinks so it was a challenge mentally as well as physically.

    The weather was pretty good. It did not rain. It was 17 C so very warm. There were huge wind gusts that came out of nowhere it seems.

    Lugo is the Capital and very beautiful. The Cathedral is magnificent. But I only took a picture as it was pouring rain. There is a medieval wall built around a section of the city centre.
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