Spain
Hornillos del Camino

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    • Day 22

      Shivering in Hornillos del Camino

      May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      A wonderful day of walking, Amr says it was 21.82kms. But it was cold! We left Burgos a little after 8.30 in our usual blue and cloudless sky, bracing but lovely…but have to admit that soon fingers ached a bit, and it was a bit too cold for comfort, and my blue Lululemon pants seem to feel more breezy…I think it was about 7° but a cold breeze.

      An easy walk out of Burgos, and then an easy, but not picturesque section walking back and forwards to get through and under many main roads and motorways leading in and out of Burgos. But after that it all became spectacular…the amazing greenery of the new crops, the new spring growth in the trees, undulating vistas.

      We paused at a dear little Ermita where we had our camino passports stamped, and were blessed, that we remembered from before. And we stopped for a break at a spot just off the track where there were picnic tables, and suddenly we realised this was where we had gratefully paused last time as an oasis to escape the heat from the very exposed track we had been walking along…SO different, now we wanted protection from the cold (which it didn’t give!)…

      But being cold puts a spring in your step just to keep warm, and it was a great day. The cloudless sky had become scattered with puffy clouds which a couple of times had produced 3 drops of water…but the breeze never let any cloud stay overhead for more than a minute, and the sun shone intermittently. We all remembered that you walk along a plateau with nothing in sight but fields (this time green) and then there is a fairly steep descent and Hornillos, a small village, appears. This time it was magical…a sweet town amongst green fields…in September it was a clump of houses in the middle of nowhere!

      So we arrived, at the little place we stayed at in 2018. But this is May Day and a public holiday here, and everything quiet…our place was closed, with a sign saying “completo” but the door was not locked, so we went in and found a table with keys on little notes - one with Rachel Higgins, and one with Rosemary Marzouk, and room numbers (I think we were the last to arrive and collect our keys!) and found it is self serve today…got to our rooms, bags there, all perfect…except Amr says the shower doesn’t drain well and I’d better have a quick shower so it doesn’t overflow. Also the note said we had a voucher for dinner at a restaurant up the road between 7 and 9 (dinners are included for the next few days) and gave us the breakfast times…so all taken care of and we are very content. R and R have the exact room we had last time, with a sloping ceiling and a skylight!!

      We went for a walk up the road to find where we would be eating, and as we walked along, feeling even colder, some drops started falling and this time we realised that they weren’t raindrops but snowflakes!! They only lasted a few minutes too, and after checking the restaurant, which had a delicious smell of roast chicken, we went back to a closed bar and all had a celebratory drink. Now still cold, with every layer on, but hope they will turn on the heating at night!

      Oh dear, bad reception and difficult uploading..will remove pics and just do words, add photos later…
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    • Day 23

      New Favorite Place, Rabe de las Calzadas

      October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      I loved this little village! Not only was the village picturesque, there was a tiny church that was playing beautiful Spanish hymns as I walked in. The alter was so simple and beautiful. After saying a prayer, and as we were leaving there was a nun by the door who said a Pilgrim prayer over us and gave us a handmade necklace with a religious medal. As we walked out of town there were many murals on the sides of buildings with Bible sayings. The sayings were mostly about living in peace with others. The rest of the day I was inspired!Read more

    • Day 126

      Hornillos del Camino

      July 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

      July 5th

      Today, we entered the Meseta (the flat plains on the plateau of central Spain) which is the section between Burgos and Astorga. The weather was perfect -not hot and there was a breeze that kept us cool the whole way to Hornillos del Camino. We will be on the Meseta for a few days. No shade, so we are hoping it stays cooler like today, otherwise we will break out the umbrellas ☂ for shade.

      Our albergue is very nice and welcoming with a lot of nice people staying here. Alan and I have our own room with twin beds 🛏. Yay for not having a top bunk!!! For dinner, the owners of the albergue made a huge paella dish for us with bread, salad, lots of wine 🍷and dessert. It was so good!

      The WiFi is horrible here, so not sure when this will upload. Tomorrow we continue on to Castrojeriz - another 13 miles. After tomorrow we will have gone 206 miles 😀.
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    • Day 27

      Now walking on the maseta

      September 18, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      This morning we left Burgos at 8 am, and have now started walking on the maseta- such a different world, and so beautiful. It was a 21.5 km walk along very easy gradient, though totally exposed ...the thunderstorm that was predicted for Burgos at 1 pm certainly hasn’t come here - it is cloudless and brilliant sunshine. We are in a small town Hornillos del Camino, in a very lovely casa rural, in an attic room - up to which the busy and delightful host, Samuel, carried both our bags! We have a sloping ceiling and a skylight...very cute, but I must be careful not to hit my head getting out of bed! We are both ecstatic because the wifi is GOOD!

      Now, to report from yesterday afternoon...we went to have our kindle time in the park, and out of the blue raindrops fell...we ignored at first, but it did become serious for about 15 minutes, so we took shelter in a delightful bar, where we had a glass of Rioja in Paul approved glasses!! Then, knowing the next day we started walking again, we went for dinner at 7 pm, the earliest available time! Not a spectacular meal, but we were sitting next to an English couple, who had interesting accents - he was Geordie and she was from Yorkshire....they have been living in Spain for the last 7 years, but we were amazed that they didn’t seem to have the basic elements of Spanish...asked for “vin rouge” (maybe thought it was “European”) or just spoke to the waiter in English...and difficulty explaining what size beer he wanted!! I think walking the Camino was a foreign concept to them! Pleasant enough otherwise!

      So we left beautiful Burgos, and not an unpleasant walk out of the city in the westerly direction, the industrial area seems to be mainly in the east, past the university and out into the countryside again, which gradually turned into the open undulating spaces of the Maseta. It was pretty relentlessly sunny, with occasional breeze, but we did find an oasis to have lunch - a group of shady trees where there is a well from which you can pump up very cold water....just what you need at that point. With tables and seats. Perfect. We had bought more cheese at Burgos and had apples and dates still.

      So we had strength for the last 5 kms or so to Hornillos del Camino. We had a very gentle rise, and saw it down the hill several kms away. Will try to add photos as this wifi may cope! Tomorrow another 20 kms to Castrojeriz.
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    • Day 16

      Day 16: To Hornillos del Camino

      May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      This morning I woke up in my comfy hotel and repacked and organized my backpack before meeting one of my Camino friends I’ve been walking with the past few days downstairs for breakfast. Elana from Bulgaria was diagnosed yesterday with tendonitis in her ankle so she is staying off of it, per the free ER Dr’s orders. Ahh… universal health coverage… (Drop by any hospital and they will do what it takes to get you better for free…)

      It’s interesting how people you meet on the Camino disappear over the next or previous hill because of a difference in walking pace or a meal stop and then magically reappear days later. Yesterday, in the Burgos plaza, I ran into a family from New Zealand that Dorothy and I met in SJPDP the evening before we started the Camino. When I arrived at my albergue this afternoon, here they are again! You never know who you may see again, and who you may not. Sorta like life I suppose…

      Back to my Camino, I started a bit late (nearly 9am) walking out of Burgos. It really is a pretty town so I spent a little more time walking around. Leaving town there were a number of art cutouts representing Peregrinos in different styles. When I reached the village of Tardajos there was a festival going on where people were dressed in costumes including the (adorable) children. I asked a local and was told it was an annual local celebration; ‘La Virgin de las Aguas’. (The Virgin of the Waters.)

      Passing through Rabé de las Calzadas there were several murals celebrating the peregrinos and one that confirmed I am between 1/3 and 1/2 the way to Santiago. Yea! One step at a time…
      A few minutes later I passed a small church with a couple of elderly folks sitting on the front porch and a sister in the doorway. I motioned to see if it was ok for me to take a photo and she motioned me in. Once inside she gave me a tiny gold medallion with a hug, then wished me “Buen Camino” and stamped my passport with an image of the medallion and a Peregrino. It instantly became my favorite sello (or seal) for my pilgrims passport. It was very sweet and a moment I won’t forget.

      Today I entered the Meseta. It’s a large fairly flat area in Spain that you walk through on the Camino between Burgos and Leon. Many peregrinos actually skip over it entirely and take a bus to Leon because of its reputation for being hot and visually dull. I would agree with the ‘hot’ description (and I’m here before the really hot months), but I would definitely not call it dull. So, speaking of ‘hot’, I became the coolest peregrino around by putting on my official hiking umbrella with a mounting attachment for my backpack. I may (or may not) have looked cool, but I was cool, and that’s what counts.
      As I walked, I continued past wheat and barley fields and a gazillion wildflowers lining the pathways. Before long I entered Hornillos de las Camino (my shelter for the evening.) As soon as I arrived at my albergue, I dropped off my backpack and then went to the square for a glass of wine.
      That evening at the albergue they served up a great pilgrims dinner including a good salad and the largest iron skillet I’ve ever seen full of Paella. After a great dinner, I was off to bed.
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    • Day 4

      Buen Camino

      March 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      روز اول.
      حدود بیست کیلومتر از مسیر رو طی کردم. حدودای ساعت ۱۴ رسیدم به مقصد روز اول. زودتر از حد انتظارم بود، گرچه سرعتم هم زیاد نبود نسبتا. بیشتر جاده صاف بود و بعضی جاها کنار رودخانه. اطراف بیشتر زمین‌های زراعتی بودند. تو این مسیر مسافرهای دیگه هم هستند که دیدنشون باعث جذابیت کار میشه. یه سلام و احوالپرسی کوتاه و بعد هم با یه بوئنو کامینو از هم خداحافظی میکنیم. ممکنه همون آدم رو چند روز بعد تر یا شب تو خوابگاه دوباره ببینی. چون همه داریم یه مسیر رو میریم.Read more

    • Day 13

      Burgos to Hornillos del Camino (20.2 km)

      April 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Made my way out of the big city this morning and entered the monotonous landscape of the Meseta. I'm guessing this is like the prairies - long flat sections of wheat fields with little shade. I didn't mind the walk and the one long steepish stretch told me my legs are getting stronger, but my poor feet aren't happy. Noticed a large birds nest on top of a church in a small town - I think it was a storks nest. It's a beautiful sunny 20 here and spent the afternoon sitting outside and reading. A great way to spend some time.Read more

    • Day 16

      Leaving Hornillos del Camino

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      Had a good breakfast at the albergue and met the others for a debrief on last night’s music sesh and to get walking.

      It was rather cold and I needed gloves for the first time, but it was a good day and the light was amazing first thing.

      We also were treated to the sight of two deer chasing each other around on a nearby hill.
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    • Day 15

      Arriving in Hornillos del Camino

      April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Hornillos is a lovely tiny town - it has a great energy to it.

      Arrived and settled into our albergues (I’m in the one opposite the others) and then we went to find something to eat for lunch - and found cake instead!! Sat in the sun and chatted and laughed for ages.

      Later, after a pilgrims meal together, a few of us went up to the bar in the town where there was live music playing. The duo were pretty terrible but there was a fantastic atmosphere in the little place and It was such a great night!
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    • Day 13

      One night in Burgos

      July 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 37 °C

      Aua, aua, aua! Das Ding ist gestern noch komplett aus dem Ruder geraten. Aber erstmal chronologisch:

      Nachdem das Fußbad ne Eisenhower A+ war, hatte ich dann geschaut, wo der nächste Schuhladen ist. Alles in der Stadt abgelaufen, schließen die Geschäfte zur Siesta aber alle gegen 15 Uhr. Die einzige Möglichkeit war dann Decathlon - 5,5 Kilometer entfernt vom Stadtzentrum auf einer Strecke. Nach so einem Tag nochmal extra 11 Kilometer aufs Tacho zu bekommen, stand für mich außer Frage - so wurde es das Taxi für ca 25 Euro hin und zurück. Mich dort mit Wandersandalen, einer Adidas kurzen Hose und einem T-Shirt eingedeckt, ging es zum Frustessen: einmal McMenü mit nem BigMac, Pommes, Cola und Mayo bitte. Im Nachhinein sau unnötig, aber in dem Moment völlig wichtig. Witzigerweise schmeckt Mccens halt wirklich in jedem Land anders!

      Gegen 18:30 Uhr wieder in der Stadt gewesen, stand auf der heutigen Taktiktafel für den Abend: Kneipentour. Startend bei einem Maß Bier in der vor der Alberge, wurde der Fahrplan besprochen. Es gibt in Burgos eine Kneipenstraße, ähnlich wie das Barfußgässchen, nur ein wenig enger und mit Stehtischen versehen. Thorsten und ich in der Vordersten angefangen, haben wir uns jeweils mit einem kleinen Bier vorgetastet. In der Mitte angekommen, trommelten wir dann andere Pilger zusammen und dadurch wurden wir relativ schnell 10 Leute. Weil der Jakobsweg bisher deutlich mehr Geld gefordert hat als geplant, sind wir dann auf Wein umgestiegen. Ein Glas kostet hier 1,80 Euro - absoluter Schnapper!

      Na und wie es dann immer so ist, war dann der Schnabel auf einmal nass und so wurde auf Flaschen anstatt Gläser bestellen, umgestiegen - geht ja deutlich schneller! Ich, Profi wie ich bin, gegen 21 Uhr mich von der Gruppe verabschiedet und gesagt, dass ich mich ja kenne, wenn ich jetzt noch ein Glas weitertrinke, gehts komplett los. Stolz wie Bolle habe ich es dann bis zur Herberge geschafft, wo in der Bar ca 15 andere Pilger auch saßen und ich mich nicht ganz vorbeimogeln konnte. Hergerufen, dass ich mich doch nochmal dazu setzen soll, wurde mir dann direkt ein Bier gereicht. Kiara und Silvia, die beiden Italienierinnen, die ich seit Tag 1 hier auf dem Camino kenne, haben mich dann dauerhaft probiert zu überreden doch noch mit weiterzuziehen. Na gut, to be honest, sie haben mich gefragt: Hey Alex, komm doch noch mit auf ein Glas, wir ziehen jetzt nochmal durch das Viertel. Überredungsschwelle hoch wie der Kölner Dom, hab ich direkt ja gesagt und so begab es sich..

      Das Ding auf dem Jakobsweg, was es immer sehr schwer macht, ist: alle Herbergen schließen pünktlich 22 oder 22:30 Uhr. Hagrid wartet in jedem Dorf komplett pingelig darauf, dass er endlich pünktlich auf die Minute die Eingangstür schließen kann und wenn man danach kommt, hat man Pech. Es besteht keine Chance mehr reinzukommen. Vor diese Entscheidung wurde ich gestern dann gestellt: die beiden Italienermädels ins Hotel eingebucht, da sie morgen ein Restday machen, war ich mit Armando und Michael (der mit dem World Cup 2006 Witz) die Einzigen mit, die wieder in die Alberge mussten. Jetzt darf jeder gerne mal für sich im Kopf überlegen, wie der Abend weitergelaufen ist haha

      Gegen 22:20 Uhr der felsenfesten Überzeugung gewesen, kam neben Stefania, Elisabetha und Kiara 2 noch Raily, der Amerikaner aus San Francisco dazu, der unglücklicherweise zwei angefangene Flaschen Wein mithatte.. und eine Musikbox. Mit den völlig unglücklichen Umständen und das erste ‚Volare ooooh‘ auf den Ohren, war es dann 22:27 Uhr und wir hätten es ja eh nicht mehr geschafft!

      Naja guuuuuuuut, jetzt musste man mindestens bis 6 Uhr durchhalten - die Tür war verschlossen, der Zug war abgefahren, die Kuh war vom Eis. Mit dem Wissen und der Erkenntnis wurde dann final die Handbremse gelöst und sich die Batterie aufs herrlichste abgeklemmt. Die ganze Gasse mit unserem fröhlichen Gesang unterhalten, wurden wir relativ schnell viele und auch die Einheimischen haben sich zu uns gestellt. Klassiker wie Guantanamera, La Bomba, Morenita oder auch Disco Pogo schallten nun durch die Burgoser Innenstadtgassen (Videos reiche ich nach - versprochen!).

      Schon kurz vor Zapfenstreich auf dem Alkoholmessgerät, kam dann von einer Einheimischen der Tipp, dass auf dem Marktplatz ja ein Club offen hatte - war ich der festen Überzeugung, dass ich mit meinem Outfit niemals reinkomme. Bad Taste Hemd mit Muscheln drauf an, dazu ne Badehose und klassisch Adiletten. Die Türsteher uns komplett sympathisch gefunden, hatten wir nach dem anfänglichen schwierigen Start in den Tag, jetzt einen völligen Lauf. Reingekommen, war das dann final der Todesstoß haha

      Gegen 5:15 Uhr mich kaum noch auf den Füßen halten könnend (ob es die Schmerzen vom vielen Laufen waren oder andere Gründe hatte, lasse ich offen) hab ich mich dann auf den Rückweg Richtung Alberge begeben. Riesenhoffnung in alle Hektoren der letzten Tage, wurde ich aber enttäuscht und alles war zu und noch keiner auf den Beinen. Stellt euch das Bild vor: eine riesige Eingangstür wie bei einem Schloss und ein Alex Langner lehnt liegend dagegen und macht einen kleinen Powernap. Mit diesem möchte ich euch gerne entlassen - 6:20 Uhr wurde ich dann erlöst und durfte in mein Bett, bis ich 7:30 Uhr darauf hingewiesen worde, dass die Herberge um 8 Uhr schließe und ich bitte aufstehen soll. Wie dann der heutige Tag war, im nächsten Blog - jetzt steht erstmal ne Weltklasse Paella auf dem Abendplan! ✌🏻
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Hornillos del Camino, 09230

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