Las Cortes

Diana and I started out our 30+ km day and by 24km were too distracted by the wineries en route that we taxied the last 9 km to Villafranca del Bierzo. But it is just as well because just as we arrived in town, the thunderclouds were rolling in, and soon it was pouring rain.

Today’s walk was different. It was largely from town to town. Some of the towns were more like cities and more industrial or touristy, and others were more quaint and less populated.

At one small city, the monument of the weight lifter is because during an olympic game, this small town in northern Spain was the home to an olympic champion.

At another town, we passed an “energy museum”…it did not look terribly busy (lol)…but by contrast we were looking forward to the seeing the Castillo de los Templarios, but it is closed on Mondays. “Walk across the bridge to the massive twin - towered gate, and feel immediately transported to the 12th and 13th centuries, the times of knights, pilgrims and passionate causes.” (Moon, Camino Santiago). The Templar knights ruled from this city of Ponferrada where they protected pilgrims and other sacred interests. In other posts I mention the Templar knights as a strong presence throughout the Camino. This castle was one of their headquarters.

At Fuentes Nuevas, there was suppose to be a winery near the end of town, we did not find that winery, so settled for a sandwich and an omelette and a glass of orange juice. Orange juice is a staple in Spain. Squeezed fresh from oranges, it is offered nearly anywhere a person buys food and drink.

But only 1.5 km later in Camponaraya, the Cooperativo Vinas del Bierzo, pilgrims are welcomed to stop and learn about regional wines and sample. Needless to say, it was busy with pilgrims. As Diana poured over the maps (because I still can’t be trusted with a map), and we contemplated the next 15 or more kilometers in 32 degrees and full sun, we decided that we would venture forth through the vineyards to the next town, and then decide whether to finish the 32 km or take a taxi.

Lucky for us in Cacabelos, there was a lovely garden, bar, restaurant and shop. So after stopping for more wine and more lunch, we hired a taxi for the last 9km. During lunch, I noticed another solo female pilgrim traveler, and I also noticed that she was definitely very sore. Diana suggested that she taxi with us, and when we were able to communicate clearly between our English and her German that we were inviting her to share a taxi, she immediately said, “I take taxi with you!”

She didn’t have a reservation in Villafranca, and though people have struggled with reservations time and time again, consistently, if a pilgrim is without a bed, the church or albergue owners will reach out to the larger community to support a pilgrim. I heard the other night that an albergue owner took 4 or 5 pilgrims to his own home rather than have them walk more or spend the night homeless.

At this point on the Camino, many are new to the Camino because they joined the Camino at Leon. So once again, we are hearing conversations about too much luggage, too heavy backpacks, blistered and raw feet, shoe challenges.

While both Diana and I, today, struggled with our feet, me with some type of bruising at the back of my heel and Diana with a blister upon a blister ( another reason we did not walk the additional kilometres), we feel more confident about walking despite that it hurts and is uncomfortable. Look at the picture where I am wearing my tevas. By 3 km today, I declared defeat with my shoes, and switched out to my tevas. Some days are like that! At some point when you have walked over 500 km, your brain/body finds a compromise, and you settle into the walk, but it is important to be cognizant of what your feet can take even at this point. There are still 200 kms to go!Read more