Lugo

Since the Camino Primitivo joins up with the Frances in a few days, many pilgrims look for alternative routes to keep them off the Frances and its crowds while still getting them closer to Santiago. The Camiño Verde is one of those, end it goes over to Sobrado de los Monxes,, where it joins the Camino Del Norte.

I have the GPS tracks, so what could go wrong, right? The first thing that happened was that I didn’t turn the track on and missed the turn off. So I found myself still on the Primitivo. That was actually quite all right, because I wanted to go to see a third century Roman crypt or bathhouse or sanitarium (no one knows exactly what it is), and it is accessible from either the Primitivo or the Verde. It was nice, because I walked with a couple of people I had met before.

Santa Eulalia is an amazing site, with unrestored paintings of all different sorts of birds and floral motifs on the walls. Really wonderful.

Taking my GPS tracks for the Camiño Verde, I followed them quite well till they took me off the road and into a grassy field where no real track was visible. To make things more interesting, a big German Shepherd started running towards me and barking. So I quickly backtracked and went out onto the road. Taking the road rather than this track would add about 6 km to the day, but I did not fancy encounters with dogs and overgrown tracks. As I started forward on the road, which Google Maps showed would take me into Friol, two more huge dogs started bounding towards me. I turned around and saw a shepherd, obviously the owner of the first dog, with his goats. I went up and asked him about how to best get to Friol, and he told me the path was not in very good condition. Lots of overgrowth, some sharp descents. I quickly made up my mind to do the roundabout road route. And luckily those other dogs belonged to an elderly couple out on a walk.

I hadn’t exactly counted on 30 km of road walking, but I’m here and in good shape and really loved that Roman/pagan building.Read more