Spain
Nájera

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    • Day 13

      To Nájera

      September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      With walking so many miles each day, our muscles and joints tend to get sore or irritated. So, a big part of this journey is visiting the pharmacy (farmacia) for items to ease the discomfort. Earlier in our trip we needed some blister supplies and this time we asked the sweetest pharmacist for ibuprofen cream, hydrocortisone cream (for heat rash), and Fisiocream (natural arnica cream for sore muscles). She joked with us about us needing all the creams 😂

      In the USA, we can go in and get things like this right off the shelf, but in Spain you have to talk to a pharmacist who will then bring you the item(s).

      Today, we left Navarette before daylight, not because we had a huge day of walking, but because of the possibility of thunderstorms in the afternoon (which thankfully didn’t happen).

      We then spent the whole morning walking by rolling fields of grapes and climbing up in elevation before descending to the town of Nájera. SO many grapes!!!🍇 It was a cooler day and it felt nice to arrive in a town and not be so tired and drenched in sweat. My heat rash took a break today - hooray!

      Before checking in to our room, we sat under the umbrellas near the river visiting with Katrina from New Zealand (until she went on a search for a good food place), Hermione from Berlin, and 5 Americans. Then we just relaxed in our room figuring out some places we want to stop later on our walk.

      A little Nájera history: An impressive complex of caves are located on the cliffs of the mountains above Nájera.  These caves were actually man-made even before the Roman colonial period, over three thousand years ago 😳 when Celtic invasions created much instability and insecurity.

      Tomorrow, we walk to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
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    • Day 12–13

      Logrono to Najera

      September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      Well, first a confession: I'm just now emerging from a cranky, hangry phase. That, combined with the fact that Najera is just not as well preserved or charming, has colored my view of this stage. It was long (18 miles). It was vineyards as far as the eye could see, which is lovely but somewhat monotonous (I know, Camino hell!). And we had no pilgrims walking with us because many of our new friends had scheduled rest days in Logrono.

      Our midday break was in a charming town called Navarrete (pop. 2,900), where we did as in Spain and partook of a small Radler to speed us on our way. A 16th century Church of the Assumption there was stunningly ornate. Its wooden floors had me wondering why they dared have real votive candles (in addition to electric ones).

      We walked three hours from there through Rioja country. Finally re-encountered the Belgian couple who has stayed at many of the same hotels as us and got their names: Bruno and Marie Martin. Also snapped a pic of our Italian friend (who speaks no English), Rogelio.

      After arriving very tired and hungry in Najera, we found our accommodations somewhat lacking, the town somewhat ghost-y, and where there was action there was no real food. Hence the hangry spell. Found something to tide us over then picked up pre-packaged cano de lomo (more cured pork) and cheese and fruit for our breakfast and headed back to the *penthouse apartment* that is not anywhere near as nice as it sounds. Two plusses: the hosts provided a free bottle of local wine (variety unknown as they private-labelled it, but plenty decent), and it has a rooftop terrace with a view of the cliffs that are a backdrop of the town.

      Crankiness aside, we remain grateful for the chance to see how differently people live--and maybe by the end of the trip we, too, will enjoy four-hour lunches and dinners that don't start till 8 pm!
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    • Day 19

      Logrono to Najera

      September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      After a very lively noisy night outside our windows we blearily got up and set off again in the dark for another long long day of walking. People of Logrono were still partying from all the wine festival celebrations and the street cleaners were out water blasting the streets.
      It seemed quite a mission to get out of the city but it is a very pretty city , with a big river and is the capital of LA Rioja . It is a big university town, hence the feeling of being in party central!
      We finally found our way out of the city and it was pleasantly cool. We walked through more wineries helping ourselves to the bunches of grapes as hasn't had breakfast. After about 12km we walked into Navarette high on a hill (of course) . The boys had hearty bacon and eggs and us girls had delicious croissants which we felt we thoroughly deserved. We all felt a bit weary today so we just plodded along clicking off the kilometers.
      As you walk you do meet different people and today was Pamela from Indiana wearing a short skirt with huge strong legs! Lots of interesting chat with her, then a young Sth Korean boy who had terrible blisters so gave out advice on that problem. It's amazing how simple life becomes on the Camino, Rather then worrying about the leaders debate or the rugby world cup we are focusing on where the next cafe and toilet will be and what the state of our feet are. I must say I am very proud of my bunion afflicted feet! They do the job and none of our 8 feet have blisters!
      So on and on we walked with a headwind but at least it was cooling. They were harvesting the vineyards by hand and so lots of activity. We lay beside a vinyard and rested for awhile having nuts and lollies for lunch plus more grapes!
      Finally after a long hard slog through some not so pretty scenery we walked into Najerra with a quaint old town section where we are staying and it's so lovely and quiet! As we sat at a bar having a beer on arrival, Jane and I were laughing at our appearances of the delightful socks and sandal look ,but did we really care after walking 29 km ( 44,000 steps) , not at all and boy the beer tasted good! Off out soon to dine by the river and feeling rather hungry.
      I hope the awful weather in the South stops and the Warriors win! The rioja wine awaits!
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    • Day 10

      Nájera

      April 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      A big day today, almost 30km! But a fun walk that was really pretty. I’ve abandoned my tennis shoes for the moment and I’m walking in my sandals which has been much more comfortable on my Achilles. Fortunately no big aches or pains today! Tonight I had dinner with a new friend from Poland who told me about her Ukrainian grandparents who fled to London to safety. I have appreciated hearing the stories of others so much.Read more

    • Day 13

      Najera

      April 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Exploring the heart of Spain.🚶‍♂️🍇 From Navarette to Najera, We've braved both rain and sunshine today. Our feet might disagree, but the spirit is soaring!
      Just checked into our apartment and made our way to the local bar downstairs. I'm amazed by the warmth and friendliness of the Spanish locals here. Language barriers? No problem. Laughter and smiles are universal. 🌍💬🤣
      #SpainAdventure #WalkSpain #NavaretteToNajera #TravelDiaries #LocalLife
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    • Day 14

      Logroño - Najera

      April 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      Mehr Regen, niedrigere Temperaturen, Saharastaub und Schlammregen in Spanien angesagt, what a Joy!
      Es ist San Prudencio sagt mir Laura, die Inhaberin der schönen Pension San Lorenzo in Najera.
      “Sie müssen einfach die Fenster und die Klappläden schließen, dann schlafen Sie auch gut.
      Es könnte etwas lauter werden”, da die Matadoren doch etwas mehr trinken heute Abend denke ich mir schmunzelnd.

      Da freue ich mich drauf! 19.30 Uhr ist Anfang.
      Vorher gehe ich doch noch lieber in der Pilgrimsmesse und hole mir den Segen, man kann ja nie wissen…
      Das Wetter ist trist, zum laufen sehr rutschig und glatt. Da muss man sich manchmal überlegen, ob es nicht vernünftiger ist den Bus zum nächsten Ort zu nehmen. Ich habe echt Angst manchmal zu fallen.

      MaryAnn hat sich übernommen, sie ist ein Roadrunner, jetzt muss sie 4 Tage Ruhe einhalten und nimmt Antibiotikum, arme Seele.
      Henk läuft morgen. Vielleicht mit mir, wer weiß.
      Weiter im Regen tanzen, es gibt hier so viel schönes zu sehen, das Kloster ist Unique, die Pilgrimsmesse hat leider nicht stattgefunden, kein Segnen sagt der Pfarrer und erklärt auf Spanisch das es eine Messe gibt für die Bewohner von Najera, wir dürfen natürlich gerne bleiben.
      Aber das wird noch dauern, der Start des Fiestas fängt gleich erst an, Ich glaube ich gehe ins Bett.
      Alles wird gut.
      😘
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    • Day 11

      Etsppe 8 - Nájera 3

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Diese Bilderserie beschäftigt sich ausnahmslos mit dem Inneren des Klosters.
      Die Kirche wurde gegen 1422 im spätgotischem Stil errichtet. Sie besteht aus drei Kirchenschiffen und dem Querschiff.
      In das Benediktinerkloster gelangt man durch das Karlstor.
      Kreuzgang der Ritter, Mausoleum von Don Diego López de Haro, der königlichen Grabkammer sowie die herrlichen Altäre geben der Kirche etwas phantastisches.
      Die Chorstühle sind ein Meisterwerk floraler Spätgotik.
      Aus dem Prospekt:
      Das Kloster von Santa Maria la Real ist einer der prägenden Orte des Landes La Rioja, nicht nur wegen seiner wertvollen Kunstwerke, sondern auch weil es auch ein treues Spiegelbild der geschichtlichen Bedeutung dieser Gegend in der Entstehung des spanischen Königsreches während des Mittelalters ist.
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    • Day 11

      Etappe 8 - Nájera 4

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Noch einige kleine Impressionen der Altstadt.
      Zum Tagesende dann Pintxos , ein Bier und Rioja darf nicht fehlen.
      Zwischendurch mal noch ein klein wenig Statistik:
      seit 12.09.
      bis heute rund 355.400 Schritte zurückgelegt!!!
      Fazit des Tages: trotz aller Anstrengungen dürfen Kultur und Genuss nicht zu kurz kommen. Mit Kleinigkeiten soll man sich belohnen. Das wussten schon die Pilger in den Jahrhunderten vor uns.
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    • Day 19

      Rain drops keep falling on my head

      September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Walked my first day in the wind and rain. Learnt the Spanish word for cold - frio. It was a drizzle most of the time, just enough that stopping for a rest anywhere was a bit cold and miserable. Thankfully the weather is warming up again from tomorrow and by the middle of the week it's going to be way too hot.

      Day two after a rest day I was a bit hesitant about the 18 km. I was also out of supplies and there weren't necessarily going to be shops or cafes today. I headed out about 9.15 hoping I'd find a decent breakfast and some snacks before I left town. On the first corner I found an open cafe and scored bacon and eggs for breakfast and some supplies for the road. Last night I'd had a lovely pilgrims menu of lentil soup, stewed beef cheeks and egg custard with Robert from the US who I'd meet in the laundromat in Logrono the day before - so I was suitably well fuelled for my day out.

      I also found Andrea from the US and Geraldine from Ireland just finishing breakfast. I'd meet Geraldine in Los Arcos a few days back but Andrea and I had been chatting, passing each other and having lunch together since back before Pamplona. They headed off but my breakfast was quick and I caught up with them just a little way out of town.

      I thought I'd brave walking with them for the day and would hopefully be able to keep up. I thought a little company might help a cold wet day to be a bit cheerier and that also it might stop me from dawdling the second half of the day. It was a good decision. They are both lovely companions and while I had to walk faster, they needed to rest when I did and were a great distraction from the weather.

      We took a slight detour into the only village near our path today and had a lovely early lunch before walking through vineyard after vineyard across the countryside. We were given some lovely wine grapes to eat along the way and made it into town not long after three.

      I'm hostelling tonight but while I booked a dormitory, I've scored a room with just myself and two others. Susanna from Hungary says it's the nicest room she's had since she started so I am being thankful I can have a private room when I want and company if I feel the need.
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    • Day 17

      Azofra and Cirueña

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      We walked out of Najera up a road through a gap in the cliffs, onto a wide open rolling plateau. Vineyards and fields that had been harvested already.

      Grapes are being picked and hauled away by tractors.

      We made a coffee stop in Azofra with Inger and Bengt from Sweden.

      After Azofra, we walked almost 6 miles to Cirueña for a lunch stop at Bar Jacobeo.

      This morning's terrain was wide open country, with few trees and no shade. Right now it is 75 degrees and no clouds. We are hot and thirsty. This must be a brutal walk in July and August!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Nájera, Najera, Nachera, ناجرة, Naiara, נאחרה, ナヘラ, Нáхера, Naiera, 26300, Нахера, 纳赫拉

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