Spanyol
Nájera

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    • Hari 9

      Etappe 8: Logronio nach Najera

      26 September 2022, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Um 7.45 starte ich in Logronio, noch bei Dunkelheit.
      Wieder standen fast 30 Kilometer an.
      Erst führte mich der Weg, durch einen Park und an einem Stausee vorbei.
      Später ging der Weg in eine breite Schotterpiste über, die an Weinbergen vorbeiführte.
      Nachdem wir Navarette durchquert haben, ging die Strecke fünf Kilometer an einer Autobahn entlang.
      Als dieser lästige Abschnitt endlich überstanden war, velief der Camino weiter Richtung Najera, durch kaum besiedelte Abschnitte.
      Hinter einem Hügel konnten wir Najera erblicken.
      In Najera angekommen, musste ich mir erst noch eine Unterkunft suchen, da ich nichts vorgebucht hatte.
      In der ersten angesteuerten Unterkunft, hatte ich Glück und konnte in der Albergue Puerta de Najera einchecken.
      Morgen geht's weiter nach Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
      Baca selengkapnya

    • Hari 17

      Najera

      21 September 2022, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Droga wila się przez większość czasu pomiędzy winnicami. Rozpoczęliśmy od około 10 stopni Celsjusza ale pod koniec dnia doszło do 24. Słońce i wiatr.
      Z ciekawostek historycznych zaraz przed wejsciem do miasta po lewej stronie ruiny romańskiej świątyni z XII wieku, które służyły za hospicjum dla pielgrzymów, był to ważny i bardzo nowoczesny na tamte czasy ośrodek, dzisiaj tylko zostały ruiny, trochę pojawiło się zadumy podobnej do wizyty szpitala na Łąkowej.
      Piękny portal, pozostałość hospicjum, przeniesiono w XIX wieku troszkę dalej za miasto i służy teraz jako wejście na cmentarz.
      Dochodząc do Najery bardzo blisko wioski Aleson stoczyła się walka pomiędzy legendarnym Rolandem a gigantycznym królem Syrii Feragutem ,który w tym czasie mieszkał w Najerze. Miał ponad 9 stóp wysokości i siłę czterech dorosłych mężczyzn i przerażający wygląd twarzy. Walka trwała 4 dni i Roland wygrał w końcu pchnięciem miecza w pepek olbrzyma który okazał się jego bardzo słabym punktem.
      Wchodząc do Najera najpierw mija się nowe miasto potem za mostem nad rzeką Najerilla wchodzi się w malutkie stare miasto wcisniete między rzekę a czerwony klif. Była to najpierw osada rzymska ,pozniej mieszkali tam Wizygoci i Maurowie. W XI wieku król Sancho III Wielki postanowił zrobić to miasto siedziba swego dworu.
      Głównym budynkiem zajmującym prawie całą starówkę jest Klasztor Santa Maria la Real. Zbudowany, nie przypadkowo w tym miejscu, gdyż właśnie tutaj król Sanchez polując, odkrył w grocie figurkę Santa Maria de Real. I w tym miejscu rozkazał wybudować świątynię, którą doczepiono do tej właśnie groty. Powstał gotycki główny gmach z barokowym ołtarzem i nawami bocznymi. Jest to miejsce spoczynku XII władców Nawarry jak również ich żon i dzieci.
      Kościół król Sanchez w XI wieku przekazał Benedyktynom, a obecnie opiekują się nim Franciszkanie.
      Nie udało się zobaczyć chóru bo był zamknięty z powodu renowacji. Wiele obrazów namalował tam Hans Memling od Sądu Ostatecznego z Gdanska i są ponoc równie dramatyczne.
      To chyba na tyle, idziemy spać.
      It was a very pleasant day... Feet didn't hurt, the distance wasn't too long, and scenery of the vineyards and wineries along the way, constantly reminded us about the delicious, chilled , inexpensive wine waiting for us at the end of our day. I drink white wine, Tomek drinks any wine, but his favorite is vino tinto. Surprisingly to us, it has been served chilled also and he says tastes amazing . At home he always dranked red wine in room temperature. Looks like from now it will changed... Lesson learned on Camino ❤️
      Baca selengkapnya

    • Hari 11

      Day 12. Najera

      10 Mei 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Another day, another 27.8 kms, although it seemed shorter than that. I left Logrono at 7:30 am after the 7:00 am breakfast. I skipped breakfast yesterday morning to get a 6:30 start because of the long day. Breakfast is included every morning but has varying start times. Breakfast is generally a good meal here: scrambled eggs (sometimes), croissants, cheese, juice, lots of sliced meats, baguettes, cereal, yogurt, grains, and coffees from push-button machines.
      Some people have said that walking can be an appetite suppressant, but I was famished last night after not having eaten all day. I don’t eat and walk. When 6:00 came around I was looking for food, but restaurants around here do not open until 8:00pm, so I had a second beer with a group of friends. Beer is not an appetite suppressant . I then ate too many heavily salted nuts. When 8:00 pm came around we went to a Thai restaurant where I had pad Thai, but it was inordinately sweet. I was so hungry, I ate the whole thing, but didn’t feel great afterwards.
      I did wake up in the middle of the night with an upset stomach . This morning , true to form, I woke up at 5:30, got caught up on news and sports news, then had breakfast before getting on the road by 7:30.
      I have always reached my destination before 2:30; I’ve been always able to check in my room shortly afterwards, have a shower, then have my own little siesta until 4:00.
      Generally, I go out by 4:00 to connect with other pilgrims. It’s easy to I’d identify us by our limp. Tonight, I connected with Fran’s, a farmer from Hungary who had a rough first day, but is doing better, I also, met Hassan, originally from Brazil, but has lived in Florida the past 15 years. He was showing us new shoes he bought today after discarding his hiking boots that, according to him, caused the blisters. His 36 year-old son who is accompanying him feels that his father has “ feet like shit” and that’s the main reason he gets blisters. One of the cardinal rules of hiking is that you break in shoes BEFORE going on a long walk or hike.
      Has sad did share that his wife died a year ago, and that his 36 year-old son has been pushing him to do this. They will be meeting his 38 year-old daughter and 32 year-old son along the way where they will continue the walk together to honour their mother who, in Hassad’s words, “ was a good Christian woman.”
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    • Hari 28

      Now at Nájera

      24 April 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Another really pleasant walk…cloud cover and breeze, so not too hot, patches of blue and sun, but not blazing…perfect really, and we walked the 16.8 kms through more picture postcard scenery of vineyards, olive groves and some grain fields - but predominantly vineyards. We left between 8.30 and 9, and got here at about 2, stopping at Ventosa for a coffee/ColaCao break…and a lunch break at a well placed park for pilgrims with trees and benches just before arriving at Nájera. The walk in to town is always rather dreary - through an industrial area and not the best end of town, then you arrive at the river and the bridge and it is all lovely…the old charming part. We are staying at the same hotel as twice before, so all very familiar.

      We stopped to have a beer and a snack of croquettas on arrival, before checking into the hotel. Quite a few walkers there, and an amazing thing happened. Two women arrived, and asked if we were Australians from Sydney, and they turned out to be a cousin of Cathy’s husband Pete Sertori and her friend Angela!! We had in fact heard that they were on the camino, probably catching up to us, from another cousin Margaret Moore, who has walked the camino and we have had lovely camino bonding sessions…but how amazing to actually meet up!! Margaret had sent us both photos of each other, but I think I could have sat at the same bar and not noticed…but Amr looked, and Susan looked at us and wondered…and it all clicked!anyway, very good. We are meeting up for a pre dinner drink in a little while, though also had an end of walk relax for a bit too. They had arrived not long after us, and had walked from Logroño….almost 30 kms…leaving in the dark at 6.30…too much to enjoy it…they plan to get a bus across the meseta I think, as they have a schedule for the flight home! Better to bus and then truly enjoy the walking I think.

      So now we are settled into our room, relaxing, reading, doing words etc…the Spanish double rooms often consist of 2 beds pushed together, but each with its own set of sheets and covers…all gets very tangled when you untuck them (I like everything loose)…but all part of the tapestry…at least we get to have our own pillow this way!!..our room today is actually a triple, with an extra bed…

      Soon we will hit the town and look for a good place to eat tonight. Last night’s dinner was fun, at the hotel which had a restaurant and probably one of the few places available on a Sunday night…many walkers there - a couple from Luxembourg, a couple from England, a Belgian and an American…the waiter was from Argentina. I had a veg soup that was virtually delicious cooked veges with a very little liquid…and then roast chicken (they have a way of making it taste so good)…comfort food! Amr had salad and hake…I wonder what tonight will bring.

      After these 2 easy days we have 4 more all over 20 kms. Shouldn’t be too much, we are well in stride now, and don’t let ourselves get tired. The longest will be the walk into Burgos on Friday..about 26 kms I think, but Burgos is lovely and we have a rest day there.

      Well now back from dinner…fun again. First we met up with Susan and Angela, and a group of other walkers from many countries, great to chat and also goodbye as they will all be ahead of us tomorrow. Then we left the young (about 60 yr olds!) as we had found a good place for dinner and wanted to get there before it was full…we did the right thing…empty when we arrived, but soon people arrived and more people turned away…good dinner, and the English couple from last night there at a nearby table and another Australian woman we hadn’t seen before…bit of a loner and really nice. Amr had a beautiful fish that he saw being taken into the kitchen, and I had stuffed peppers..all good…
      Baca selengkapnya

    • Hari 13

      Little Ole Wine Drinker Me (& Me)

      11 September 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Logrono to Najera
      Day 10 - 30 km

      We spent an another amazing day trekking through the wine fields ( vineyards). The grapes, mainly red, were ripe and definitely ready for picking ( in our professional opinion) 😏 and we had another day of spectacular views which meant we must of done some climbing, however it was an easy day ( although long…) on the Camino trail. 😍

      This morning, after waiting for the storm to pass, we headed off around 7.15. We walked through the centre of Logrono which was very impressive and after a coffee/ breakfast stop we started our long trek to Najera ☺️. After a couple of refreshment stops, and another busker on the path, we arrived in Najera around 3.30pm. Not one of our favourite stops this far, doesn’t have the same quaint feel, but enjoyed a couple of beers and wines and a nice salad. Looking forward to a shorter walk tomorrow.
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    • Hari 12

      Nájera

      16 September 2022, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

      10.6 miles today. I sent my bag ahead to lighten my load and give my knee a bit of a break. I'll do the same tomorrow.
      I went faster today and was able to enjoy the town. They are in day 2 of a 4 day festival so we got to listen to a Spanish group singing while we waited for the monastery to open.
      The monastery was so cool. It had a mix of Roman and Gothic architecture, and had the tombs of ancient kings and their families.
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    • Hari 10

      Day 7- Logrono to Najera

      12 September 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      So today we ventured 28km from Logrono to Najera. Logrono is a very large city so took us a bit of time to exit the big city and get back to the countryside.
      So in the La Rioja region the soil is a red clay which apparently is great for growing grapes as they were everywhere today. I would guess 14 miles worth:)
      At this juncture there aren’t as many small towns we travel thru instead larger towns with more distance in between. Today a little less than halfway to Nájera was Navarrete. Has about 3000 residents and is the pottery center of the region. Would make sense based on the clay there! BTW red clay when it is wet is really soupy and sticks pretty heavily to shoes. We were lucky to avoid the rain but many puddles showed the thickness of the soil when wet.
      The views continued to be amazing along the way and we made good time as the terrain was easier today and the weather was perfect. not the hot afternoons that we had had. Looking at the weather app this may continue into next week as well!
      Nájera has about 8000 residents and dates back to as early as 923. It is known for the production of furniture. The town is nestled next to a mountain that has many caves throughout and has a very cool looking side that looks like jagged red rock!
      I think I will name today “ milestone day”
      We crossed over 100 miles walked( we are at 117.5) and we made it 7 days walking without any major injuries , a few blisters and tweaks of things but nothing major! Two good milestones to reach!
      Oops almost forgot to mention, a common picture on the Camino is one that is your shadow. You walk for hours “into” your shadow, got to admit it’s kind of cool!
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    • Hari 11

      Etappe 8 - Nájera 2

      22 September 2022, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Angekommen in Najera gegen 12 Uhr. In vorhanden Pilgerherbergen wollte ich nach den letzten Nächten nicht absteigen. Brauche wieder eine Nacht für mich. Kleines Hotel gefunden: letztes Zimmer bekommen. Sauber und fein. Teile mir mit einem anderen Zimmer das Bad. Kein Problem. Wäsche gewaschen, hängt zum trocknen. Hoffe, dass morgen wieder alles trocken ist.
      Nach einigen kleinen OP 's an den Füßen bin ich zu einem kleinen Spaziergang aufgebrochen. Konnte noch einem Ehepaar aus Südafrika helfen, denn in meinem Hotel waren noch drei Betten in einem 9-Bett-Zimmer frei.
      Viele Pilger kommen jetzt schon mit ganz großen Blessuren an den Füßen. Sieht teilweise schlimm aus. Ich bin davon auch nicht ausgenommen, hoffe aber, dass ich morgen weiter kann.
      Trotzdem Nájera einmal Sitz der spanischen Könige war, ist dies kaum noch zu erkennen.
      Heute ist sie zur Bedeutungslosigkeit verkommen.
      Die Kirche bzw. das Kloster Santa Maria La Real bleiben das Kleinod der Stadt und sind für Spanien sehr wichtig.
      Mehr als die Hälfte der Bilder dieser Serie zeigen den prächtigen Bau. Fortsetzung folgt im Teil 2 dieser Stadt.
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    • Hari 13

      To Nájera

      12 September 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      With walking so many miles each day, our muscles and joints tend to get sore or irritated. So, a big part of this journey is visiting the pharmacy (farmacia) for items to ease the discomfort. Earlier in our trip we needed some blister supplies and this time we asked the sweetest pharmacist for ibuprofen cream, hydrocortisone cream (for heat rash), and Fisiocream (natural arnica cream for sore muscles). She joked with us about us needing all the creams 😂

      In the USA, we can go in and get things like this right off the shelf, but in Spain you have to talk to a pharmacist who will then bring you the item(s).

      Today, we left Navarette before daylight, not because we had a huge day of walking, but because of the possibility of thunderstorms in the afternoon (which thankfully didn’t happen).

      We then spent the whole morning walking by rolling fields of grapes and climbing up in elevation before descending to the town of Nájera. SO many grapes!!!🍇 It was a cooler day and it felt nice to arrive in a town and not be so tired and drenched in sweat. My heat rash took a break today - hooray!

      Before checking in to our room, we sat under the umbrellas near the river visiting with Katrina from New Zealand (until she went on a search for a good food place), Hermione from Berlin, and 5 Americans. Then we just relaxed in our room figuring out some places we want to stop later on our walk.

      A little Nájera history: An impressive complex of caves are located on the cliffs of the mountains above Nájera.  These caves were actually man-made even before the Roman colonial period, over three thousand years ago 😳 when Celtic invasions created much instability and insecurity.

      Tomorrow, we walk to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
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    • Hari 16

      Arriving in Najera

      3 Oktober 2022, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      So I arrived in Najera with blue lips & sticky fingers. So far the "grape police" have not apprehended me in my undisclosed location 😇.I have not picked one single grape walking through the miles of vineyards on our Camino route. I believe strongly you shouldn't pick things that are not yours. Today was hot & I succumbed. Thanks Jim for ratting me out! However, the grapes were everything & more than I had hoped!

      Last night after I posted to our blog we had a lovely meal with our Camino friends in the restaurant of a 15th century hotel. Beautiful atmosphere & food was also delicious.
      Posada Ignatius https://posadaignatius.com/

      There is not a lot to say about our walk today. It was stunningly gorgeous and so many grapes 🍇 so little time...
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