Espanja
Oviedo

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    • Päivä 34

      Camino Primitivo

      8. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      (Bert) Der Camino Primitivo gilt als älteste Wegeführung des Jakobsweges. Er führt von der asturischen Hauptstadt Oviedo auf 310 Kilometer in anspruchsvoller Weise über Lugo nach Santiago de Compostela. Wir fahren in heute sozusagen in umgekehrter Richtung, sehen viele Pilgerwanderer die Straße kreuzen und manchmal auch am Straßenrand marschieren. Hunderte von Kurven durch oft karstige Landschaft, zumeist auf etwa 1.000 Höhenmetern, mit gelegentlichen Blicken auf den etwas südlich von uns liegenden Hauptkamm der Pyrenäen; dort sind einige Gipfel noch schneebedeckt. … Bei einer Kaffeepause plaudern wir mit englischen Bikern, die mit schwerem Gerät (Goldwings) unterwegs sind; es gibt eine gute Fährverbindung von Portsmouth nach Santander, da bietet sich eine Motorradreise durch Portugal Spanien an. By the way: Die Sozia der weißen Gold Wing ist blind; wieviel Vertrauen kann man haben? … Die Übernachtung ist verdächtig günstig. Das hat natürlich einen Grund, den wir allerdings erst vor Ort erfassen. Das riesige, baulich spektakuläre Kongresscenter in Oviedo, in dem auf einigen Stockwerken noch ein Hotel betrieben wird, scheint teilweise verlassen, vielleicht ist es auch baufällig. An der Rezeption werden wir aufgefordert, in die Tiefgarage zu fahren, auch wenn es nicht so aussehen würde, dass man da hinein fahren könne. So ist es dann auch. Abenteuerlich … Norbert entdeckt eine Sportsbar, in der wir ein Cachopo tradicional essen, eine Art galizisches Cordon bleu. Es ist unfassbar groß und tröstet uns darüber hinweg, dass Manu Neuer kurz vor Schluss den Ball nicht festhalten kann. Real 2, Bayern 1.Lue lisää

    • Päivä 23

      Oviedo

      10. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Day 23 Oviedo
      I've been humming and hahing about tomorrow's decision, a silly amount of energy spent on a simple -doesn't-even-really-matter question, namely whether to continue on the Norte route (which I declared my intention to do a couple of days ago) or to start the Primitivo.
      Preoccupation gets on the way of really living.

      Most of the issue was to do with how to best use the week that Luca will be here at the end of the month. Inspired by Petra, (German, sharing a twin room tonight) I have chosen to do the 'O Camiño dos Faros' with him, which takes 8 days and follows the north west coast of Galicia, past its many lighthouses as the name suggests. A perfect path to do in the time we will have together. https://www.caminodosfaros.com/

      So, with so much coastline ahead with Luca, I have now decided-decided to walk the most mountainous, most remote, most natural (fewest made up paths) and arguably most challenging Camino. Starting tomorrow. Take a look at the map: I've followed the green route so far, to the tip of the triangle where it meets a yellow and a pink line. The Norte continues northwards (duh) with quite a lot more coast before turning down towards Santiago; the Primitivo, in yellow, goes directly through the hills and joins with the 'Frances' (pink) for a couple of days before Santiago.

      Oviedo is a super city, grand, smart, beautifully laid out, although it was a very long hot horrid noisy trafficky road into the centre. The city festival this weekend made exploring the streets all the more interesting, especially the many stalls with artisan foods and crafts, and local music performances. Lots of free cheese and meat samples!
      I didn't pay to enter the cathedral, but the Iglesia de San Isidoro El Real provided enough overblown decorative intricacy, glorified Madonna statuary and dead Jesuses to satisfy me for another long while. Isn't the icon with the three hands sweet though?

      I wondered today about how I usually make decisions, and how some things are perhaps best left to routine ... the simplicity of the daily process here is a relief: every day all I have to do is get up and go out, making sure I have enough food and water to keep me healthy. Arrive, wash, eat, sleep, repeat.
      I'm not as routinised usually, especially when there is no appointment to get up early for. I like spontaneity and flexibility, very much. But it can become lazy, so that I end up with a slowest, easiest, less challenging, more indulgent outcome. Mightn't it help me to be regular, a bit more consistent? To not have to make a decision about the ordinary things again and again, but let a daily rhythm carry me? Living alone for a lot of the last 3 years has really shown up my inertia, and my previous reliance on the comfortable assumptions that develop in shared living. Do you know what I'm on about? I don't have answers. Just a wish to be simpler, to be content, to be free.
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 25

      Laatste Avondmaal in Oviedo

      28. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      's Middags geluncht met Reetta, Natalie (Quebec), Walter en Vivian (België) bij de Mexicaan.

      's Avonds weer gegeten bij de Ramen Bar samen met Reetta en Natalie. Hier afscheid weer genomen van Reetta want zij blijkt een dag extra in Oviedo en gaat waarschijnlijk door met de kust route.

      Walter en Vivian zijn vandaag ook begonnen met de primitivo en die ben ik een aantal keer tegen gekomen vandaag.
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 52

      Buen Camino Oviedo

      2. kesäkuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      I'm sitting in a cafe with a steaming hot chocolate in front of me waiting with some anticipation for the tourist office to open so I can get my pilgrim's passport and 'begin' my journey.

      Lots of feelings and people I'm carrying with me and feeling full and sad at the same time. I've been wandering gathering last minute supplies a and questioning some of my packing choices. But mostly thinking of Abby and what I can carry for her on the camino. She has been on my heart a lot the past few days my brave strong daughter still carrying her Loss with courage, dignity and oh so much wisdom. I turn a corner in the old city and am assailed by the scent of flowers - and it comes to me forget-me-nots those beautiful blue flowers (just like her eyes) that bloom and die so quickly yet still ask us to remember and love them again.

      Thoughts of Abby lead to Zoe and the loss surges again, I have missed seeing my fierce brilliant daughter these last years. the photo I carry of her a round happy child sitting on my lap on a swing at the beach. I just have to trust again that in time the hurts will fade enough for the talking to begin.

      Cam also is on my mind, the purity of his longing for a secure intact family mirrors the loss and heartbreak I feel about Corinne. It's hard not to imagine her here beside me, soaking up the beauty and the coffee, holding hands and dancing in the square. I also remind myself that that would not have happened anyway.

      So coming back to now, 20 minutes till opening time (well its Spain so maybe 25)

      Salut
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 10

      Raus aus den Bergen - rein in die Berge.

      15. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Eigentlich ist Covadonga mehr als nur eine Wallfahrtsstätte. Das zeigte am Morgen die Vielzahl an Schülergruppen, die den Berg erstürmten. Sie gilt als der Ursprung der Reconquista und der damaligen Idee vom eigenen Staat Spaniens noch zu Zeiten der Besatzung durch die Mauren. Bestimmt wird der Ort durch die "Heilige Höhle" mit dem Marienheiligtum und dem Grab Pelayos. Hinzu kommt die neoromanische Basilika, die auf einem Felssporn thront.
      Nach dem Besuch dieses Ortes fuhren wir an die Küste nach Llanes, wo die Bufones auf uns warteten. Darunter versteht man Einsturzlöcher und Brandungshöhlen an der Küste, aus denen das Brandungswasser ähnlich einem Geysir fein zerstäubt herausschwappt. Hinzu kommen die gespenstisch anmutenden lauten Geräusche wie aus einer Unterwelt. Nach diesem Besuch ging es westwärts wieder zurück in die Berge nach Oviedo. Stadtbesichtung steht morgen an, aber wir gönnten uns schon mal den Besuch von zwei vorromanischen Kirchen aus dem 9. Jahrhundert: Santa Maria del Naranco und San Miguel del Lillo.
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 17

      First day in Oviedo and rugby game

      4. kesäkuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Now that I am with Lucas, the solo part of my trip is essentially over (except one day in between dad leaving and going to Paris), which is pretty wild. It’s great to see Lucas and of course I am getting much more Spanish practice in now as we are not using any English. Lucas had his last rugby match of the season today, it was cool to be able to see it although I didn’t understand a lot of the sport. He is on a professional team here that is essentially in the Spanish B league. There were more fans than I expected, maybe 1000-1500 people. Lucas’s team won by a solid margin and he got a try (touchdown) himself. One of the guys told me he is the best player on the team. Afterwards I went out with him and the guys on his team, which was fun but it was also hard to make conversation with them - not so much because of the language barrier but a cultural barrier. It was pretty easy to understand and talk to them but they are not nearly as conversational as Americans. They aren’t chatty and will respond to questions you ask but won’t ask anything back. It was not a problem though because I just hung out with Lucas and talked with him most of the night. And I did meet a couple of chatty people but they were other foreigners who played on the team. Overall an interesting and fun day!Lue lisää

    • Päivä 21–25

      Oviedo, Asturias, Spain

      27. marraskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      It's rainy and a bit dreary now that we moved east to Asturias, but I don't mind. It's in the low to mid 50's F and we scored a huge apartment not far from the bus and train stations. Alfonso, our host, even picked us up at the front! Now that's service. After our tiny apartmtent in Santiago, we're ecstatic about the space and it cost a mind-boggling $60 or so per night.

      Our bus here took 4 1/2 hours and was one of the nicest buses I've been on. It was a "Supra" bus on Alsa lines. It didn't seem to cost much more than the others, but it had 3 leather seats across and was more like a first class plane experience, with lots of movies to choose from on the way. There was even a screen showing the speed of the bus, the location on the map, and the ETA, just like on a plane.

      We arrived at night, but set out right away to get some provisions and even made it to a local Vermouth tapas bar down the street. Americans usually only use vermouth in dry martinis, but we discovered the joy of Spanish Vermouth in Madrid and Malaga a few years ago. It's sweeter and served from barrels and with ice. We opted for glasses of Rioja and Alberinho wines this time with a light dinner of garlic Langostinos in olive oil. I was still pretty full from our last meal in Santiago. They're known for their meats and for the first time on the trip, we didn't have any seafood. We ordered a recommended meat plate for two to split. Even then, it was too much but it was a churrasco of various pork cuts. Six hours later, a couple of delicious shrimpys was all I needed.

      There's not a lot of tourism here, especially in November, and that might be why I like it. It's just locals going about their day. I think Oviedo is about the same size as Madison, but there are hundreds of 6-12 story buildings everywhere. Deanne's fighting a cold, so I walked out today solo and hit the Fine Arts museum. There's a great collection of Spanish work, and I especially loved the 2 rooms of Sorolla's. There's a new wing built on to two connected palaces. It was easy and fun to get lost in there.

      Outside, I saw that they're putting the finishing touches on their Christmas market in two locations. And I got a haircut. There's no shortages of barbers and hair stylists here. I walked by about 8 on the way to the barber I found online and then saw at least 5 more walking later. And I'm just in the center, not far from the old town. I like how the city is laid out. It's mostly modern with wide streets and boulevards. That's totally different from what we've seen on this trip so far.

      Deanne felt better by the next day, so we did the day trip to Gijon. Today is now our last full day here and we spent it just walking around in a light rain and enjoying the sights, which is pedestrian shopping streets, a beautiful central park, lots of statues including a Botero, and lots of amazing architecture. I took Deanne back to the museum and enjoyed it just as much the 2nd time. We found a nice local restaurant and ordered the set menus for $13 Euros. It was four courses and one included the Fabada, the amazing bean and sausage dish I had yesterday in Gijon. It was even better today! Once again, we're so full from these set late lunches that we just snack at home for dinner. We have not adjusted to going out to dinner at or after 9 pm. We're not even hungry by then.

      It's been a great town to just chill out in. We love it. But tomorrow we take an express bus to Bilbao after passing right through Cantabria. Bilbao is in Basque Country and we plan on going to the famous Guggenheim museum there and enjoying the sights in the Casco Viejo, or old town.

      More photos and videos are here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/XPMBrjztokMoUN8y8
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 25

      Cathedral van Oviedo

      28. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Vanmorgen naar de kathedraal van Oviedo geweest. Ze hadden een audio tour wat het redelijk interessant maakte, naar vraag me nu niet meer waar het over ging.

      Er lijken nogal wat relikwieën in de kathedraal, waaronder de doek die over Jezus' gezicht lag, een soort lijkwade met een hoop bloed. Verder staat er de Ark uit de tempel in Jeruzalem. Je moet wel diep gelovig zijn om dit allemaal aan te nemen.

      Grappig is dat de ingang, zie foto, geen beelden op de sokkels heeft. Dit is opzettelijk met het idee dat je je leven zo leeft dat jij op die sokkel zou kunnen staan.
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 24

      Primitivo

      27. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Ik ga overmorgen de route primitivo lopen door de bergen naar Santiago. Dit is de eerste route gelopen door koning Alfonso II in de middeleeuwen. Vandaar de naam van de route. En ze zijn er natuurlijk trots op...Lue lisää

    • Päivä 24–26

      Oviedo

      27. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Vanmorgen na het ontbijt met de bus vertrokken naar Oviedo. Het oude centrum is schitterend! Zie foto's...

      Ik heb een winkel gevonden die het scherm van mijn telefoon kan maken voor €165. Het scherm komt morgen binnen en wordt morgenmiddag vervangen. Ik blijf dus nog een dag in Oviedo. Morgen avond slaap ik in de herberg.

      Morgen komt ook Reetta aan dus we zullen elkaar weer zien...

      Ik ben inmiddels weken in Spanje, maar het voelt helemaal niet alsof ik in Spanje ben. Natuurlijk moet ik regelmatig Spaans spreken in winkels en restaurants en de Spanjaarden denken natuurlijk dat ze in Spanje zijn, maar ik niet, ik ben op de Camino. Het is alsof het een eigen land is, met eigen gewoontes, een eigen taal en een eigen gevoel.
      Lue lisää

    Saatat myös tuntea tämän kohteen näillä nimillä:

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