Spanien
Portomarín

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    • Dag 40

      Into Palas de Rei

      27. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

      Today we walked about 20 miles. It’s getting a little bit more difficult because we both have blisters now and because our feet are just achy. I don’t think that’s going to remedy itself. I think we’re just gonna have achy feet for the next 70 km or so. This town has two pharmacies and two small markets. The town is not actually that big! Anyway, we visited the pharmacy to get some blister treatment. And we picked up more ibuprofen. I think we’re gonna make it for three more days of walking.

      This morning in Portomarin when we woke up, we could hear the water coming down super hard on our roof. Luckily, by the time we were walking, it didn’t rain nearly as much. We’ve had a few periods of no rain at all today! We didn’t take as many pictures as usual because it’s hard to do it when your phone is in your pocket under a couple layers of rain gear!

      A lot of our walk today was through forested land. We also went by a lot of rolling hills and pastures. By enlarge it was a pleasant walk. At this point, our feet are so sore though, everything hurts! It is hard to imagine being a medieval pilgrim, making this journey in sandals!
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    • Dag 5

      Day two Camino: 17 miles 🔥

      10. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

      We started today bright eyed and bushy tailed ready to conquer the day! Soon after we started though we were hit with a pretty steep hill, pouring rain and high winds. But not to worry- we had the gear!! We threw on our raincoats, rain pants and even rain cover for our backpacks! We continued throughout the day walking with a steady stream of other pilgrims. We stopped for lunch- bacon and cheese sandwich- and then for ice cream of course! As the miles passed our feet definitely were feeling it! The newness and wonder wore off pretty quickly! By mile 14 we were pretty done but we dug deep and knocked out the final 3! We arrived at our hotel- a 218 year old farm house with beautiful grounds and a delicious meal. We are definitely beat and glad for our “short” day of 9 miles tomorrow!

      A and E
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    • Dag 31

      Day 31: Sarria a Portomarin

      30. maj 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Slight headache this morning on account of the chupitos last night! But I make it out of the albergue in one piece, no later than 6. An early start rewards me with a beautiful blanket of mist throughout the town and I make my way into the countryside.

      Pure magic today, an absolutely beautiful walk. The path feels ancient, twisted trees line either side and gorgeous countryside in every direction. Feels special and demands silence as I walk through the mist.

      I stop at a hut because I spot Yorkshire tea!! Turns out a man called Richard has bought a little house and offers British tea for a donation. I enjoy a cup of tea with him and he tells me about his life. He also has military parents, and now works as a translator and moves between Spain and York. He tells me about his passion for Yorkshire ales, and shipped me his collection of beer mats. As we part ways, gifts me one of the mats. I am happy!

      A couple of climbs, and it really feels like Galicia now. All the smells from my childhood, the smell of the damp earth and forest. The mist still hangs throughout the day.

      I don’t take many photos today as I just experience it. But I do make it to 100km mark; a good and bad thing. A great achievement and a chapter closing. I reach the stunning town of Portomarin around 11.30, utterly bewitched by the landscape. I feel quiet and contemplative.

      The day is spent milling around the town, having some food, eating with Kevin from Germany and then later with Hodges, Nico and a group of Americans. In good company today.

      Tomorrow I make my way closer to Santiago!
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    • Dag 10

      Sarria - Portomarin (23,4km)

      19. juli 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      "Geht in der Kraft, die euch gegeben ist, geht leichtfüssig, geht zart" - so schwebten wir über dem Camino bis nach Portomarin bei angenehm bewölktem Himmel, spürbar erholt von gestern. Wir passierten unter alten Eichen den besagten Kilometerstein 100 und dies - oh Schreck - mit hunderten jungfräulichen Peregrinos, die (also doch) in Sarria ihre Reise antraten. Ob spanische Schulklassen oder paraguaianische Reisegruppen, allesamt in gleichen Shirts uniformiert und die Flagge ihres Landes über dem Rucksack tragend, uns blieb nichts erspart.
      Signifikant für diesen Weg sind aber nicht nur neue Pilger, sondern auch Hórreos, typisch galicische Getreidespeicher, welche die bäuerliche Kulturlandschaft prägen. Ihre Funktion bestimmt die Form: Einerseits sorgen die seitlichen Schlitze für eine gute Durchlüftung (was aufgrund des häufigen Regens und der hohen Luftfeuchtigkeit in Galizien wichtig ist); andererseits werden dadurch Vögel und Nagetiere ferngehalten.
      Einige Kilometer später sahen wir in der Ferne unser Ziel Portomarin, über dessen moderne Häuser wir zunächst etwas erstaunt waren. Doch unser Reiseführer brachte Licht ins Dunkeln: Das ursprüngliche Portomarin wurde in den 1950er-Jahren im Zuge eines von Franco betriebenen Stausee-Projekts geflutet. Die ehemalige romanische Templerkirche aber (früher San Juán de Jerusalén, heute San Nicolás), wurde Stein für Stein abgetragen und oberhalb des Stausees wieder aufgebaut. Da steht sie nun wie ein Monolith, mit Zinnen bewehrt. Ohne Glockenturm, dafür mit Glockengeläut blechern und kratzend aus Lautsprechern.
      Wir haben uns auch kulinarisch weitergebildet und uns an den galicischen Pulpo, also Oktopus, herangewagt. Er schmeckte hervorragend! Ab morgen sind es nur noch vier Tagesetappen bis Santiago - unglaublich wie die Zeit vergeht...
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    • Dag 28

      Portomarin

      13. august 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      Portomarin is all my deepest Camino fears and dislikes come alive. I am sleeping in a room with 129 other pilgrims, 95 percent of which started this morning in Sarria and are celebrating their time away from parents or spouses with copious amounts of alcohol.

      The Way echoes hiking sticks without rubber caps (why one would need hiking sticks in suburban Galicia is beyond me). You're on the Camino, not in the Arctic, get some rubber caps.

      There are boom boxes playing Spanish rap, groups blocking the way, lines in front of toilets, and more. Oh and prices have quadrupled.

      It's the final test before Santiago. I shall not fail.
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    • Dag 26

      Early morning start

      25. august 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Stop in Palace de Rei after 25 km! 3.5h more to go today to escape the tourists! But the feets are aching a lot! Theae hobby pilgrims even have their own stamps to cheat. 🤦🏼
      The sky was very nice this early morning - unfortunately the pictures couldn’t capture it well! So Melide today, where the specialty is grilled Pulpo (Octopus)Læs mere

    • Dag 38

      Portomarin

      12. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      Today held a gift, a milestone and a discovery. The gift was the walk. It was a gift, for all the work we have put in the previous weeks, to walk with strength we never could have imagined in such a beautiful area of Spain.

      We hit the milestone of 100 kilometers left before we get to Santiago. That means we have covered over 700 kilometers or 435 miles so far and have less than 60 miles to go! I am so impressed by Peg, covering all this without a single blister, failed joint or muscle and without a complaint. She has just killed it.

      The other thing this milestone brings is a lot more people walking. In Europe, taking a week off and covering this 100k is a very common undertaking. At the albergue we are in today there is even a large group of high school kids doing it. BTW, I have included a photo of one of the three dormitory rooms (rooms separated by curtains)
      in the albergue to give a sense of the hostel life. This facility sleeps 130 people. It could be a long (loud) night 😳.

      And now the discovery. As I walked, I thought of this post and how to describe our day. I soon realized I was out of adjectives. I have used amazing, wonderful, peaceful, awesome, magical, hell Peg even use mist-ical which isn’t even a word. Today I realized there is no way to describe this adventure, you just have to do it and experience it for yourself. Each day we complete the four Camino tasks of walk, eat, wash and sleep and we learn and discover more about ourselves and others in doing these four basic things. But the only way to fully comprehend it is to live it.

      Buen Camino
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    • Dag 39

      We Arrive (Very Wet!) in Portimarin

      26. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

      Today we left Sarria and walked to Portomarin. We didn’t take as many pictures today because it was pouring almost all day!

      Sarria is the beginning spot for the last 100 km of the Camino. To earn a compostela, you have to walk at least 100 km or ride at least 200 km. So a lot of people begin their walk here. So we saw a lot of be people and heard a lot of new stories. We saw a child and a dog in a raincoat out there today!

      Here in Galicia there are a tons of cows and many rural houses have these little structures called horreros. They are grain storage buildings that are elevated to keep rodents out, but they looks like little crypts. Or luxury dog houses. Or…well when you’re walking you get to exercise your imagination making up what you think horreros look like they could be used for!

      We saw long horned cows today and a few goats.

      We have been seeing “our purple friends” all over Spain in more mountainous places. They’re these purple bulb flowers like little tulips. We can go for quite a while without seeing them and then they’re back! Like Camino friends who we don’t see for days or even weeks and then there they are in a
      church or at a bar drinking coffee!

      When we got all the way to Portomarin, we crossed a long bridge over the river and then encountered a steep staircase. It wasn’t as bad as it looked but it was not a welcome sight. I read before we came that Portomarin used to be right on the river but when a dam was built downstream creating a reservoir, the residents disassembled the old town rock by rock and reassembled all the buildings up the hill. They must have decided that all the new buildings would be white because even from a distance you can see that Portomarin is an all white town!

      We crossed the official 100 km to go marker today too. Pretty cool! Some Australian Camino friends walked up just then and we took turns taking pictures with the marker!
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    • Dag 5

      Day 1 - Sarria to Portomarin

      28. september 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      I'm finally here. After all those years of thinking about and planning for a Camino; it's finally happening. There were so many of us pilgrims along the Way in the morning, and I have to be honest, it was a little intimidating. Then we got to the 800 year old oak tree, which was described by a friend, when he did the Camino, and I realised that I am just one of the cogs in a very large machine, i.e. we are all in this amazing thing together, and then I began to relish in my very small part of it and welcome the presence of those around me. After a delicious lunch, the crowd seemed to thin out, and I was able to walk alone and relax into the experience. Tonight, our small group was able to celebrate mass in the church at Portomarin (I mean, we had the place all to ourselves) - a church that was established in the 1200s. How awesome is that? And even though I only needed to obtain 2 stamps on my credential today , I ended up with 9! LOL.Læs mere

    • Dag 4

      Arrived in Portomarin

      25. oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Rained all day but no wind so quite pleasant. Walked for just over 22k very green quiet countryside
      Old churches still standing although most not in use. Quiet walk only a few other pelligrinos which is what those who are walking the Camino are called. Very well signed even I didn't get lost although I did check my position on Alltrails app. I'm glad I've had hiking experience...I had not prepared enough because the trip all happened so quickly
      I've been able to appky some principles which I think helped...start slow and pick up speed as you settle into a pattern, keep hydrated and blood sugar level up rest at intervals....I was very glad to see the town of Portomoran ahead. Any deep and meaningful (D&M...from now on) insights. I thought about the medieval women who have walked this path. We are usually presented with images of male pilgrims but women did as well. Other than that, enjoying the freedom of walking alone in such stunning countryside. Tired but got through Day 1!
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