Praza do Obradoiro

Friday: (I checked) . A day at leisure in Santiago. I’ll have to have a quieter night tonight; which is a fairly low bar to set.

Called in at Casa Ivar to meet El Queso Grande himself. It’s nice to put a physical face to a name at long last.

Also the splendid Pilgrim House to meet Faith for the first time. What a great place and lovely people.

The two German chaps reportedly carried on with an all-nighter before pouring themselves onto a plane first thing this morning. They must have the constitution of oxen.

Oh, bloody marvellous. Mrs HtD’s got covid. That’s me and Henry the (actual) Dog sleeping in the kitchen then. Mrs HtD can have upstairs. Mind you he’s got a massive memory-foam bed under the table which will easily fit both of us.

I thought I’d just reflect on the journey.

I used everything I carried apart from a knee-support, my first aid kit and a spork. I wanted for nothing either; so the packing’s sorted.

I neglected to mention that the Pension Glorioso a couple of Km outside Padron (whilst splendid in itself) is next to an incongruous pole-dancing establishment. It didn’t appear (from the outside - I have many faults, most of them obvious - but at all times I ask myself ‘what would Mrs HtD say about this?’ before lighting the blue touch paper) to be doing much business.

My knees held up remarkably well on what; for a flattish Camino; has a bit of up and down.

If I’d been walking this in a pair of trail-runners and poncho, it would have been impossible (for me). In the summer, perhaps; but spring and autumn, dress for the seasons. A peregrino who I saw arrive in Santiago a couple of hours after me in sandals and a straw hat which was starting to grow moss looked suicidal.

At this time of year and on this route there is categorically no need to ‘book ahead’, there is an ample choice of accommodation at all prices. The flexibility to walk on from Padrón was really useful.

However: the Camino infrastructure - as I saw on the meseta this time last year has taken a battering in covid time. Whilst there is still ‘enough’ in peak season there will be pressure.

From discussion with Ivar and others there’s a real sense that the number of arrivals in Santiago last year largely reflects the ‘100km’ peregrinos. That’s not a bad thing; but the more distant accommodation providers are probably not benefiting from the recovery.

I’ve been retired for a while. Before a very varied career, my time at university was in economics, and I’m fairly numerate, but I can’t figure out how Spain generally, and the Camino infrastructure specifically works. I’ve stayed in a couple of decent pensiones and hotels and patronised bars where the staff outnumber the clients. I know it’s a quiet time of year but: a 10- room pension at €50 per night (and that’s top-end) at 50% occupancy (that’s generous) is pulling in €185k per annum. Knock off VAT, then start paying the input costs and staff and there’s nothing much as a return - and you’ve got to buy the place to start with.

I’m in a bar now (quel surprise), with two staff (one of whom is juggling oranges - I wish someone would pay me to practice that) and three customers; one of whom is the local nutter and smells like a polecat, and it’s Friday evening. How do they afford to keep the lights on?

We do get a few ‘I want to buy an albergue’ posters on the forum and I admit I can be short tempered; but they’re either certifiable or in possession of a substantial private income. It doesn’t add-up.

To resurrect an earlier diatribe; I’ve just been confronted by a choice of someone being crucified and someone on a space-hopper (title photo) from which I’m supposed to select which door I’m going to go through to urinate. God knows I’m not stupid; but - go on - which door would you pick, and why?

Not 100% of Santiago thinks it’s a bundle of laughs living with such a transient population of Peregrinos (photo)

Tomorrow should see me on a bus to Porto, where I will be seeking out something to eat which does not contain pimentón and categorically is not a Francesinha Then Sunday evening will see me fly back home. I’ve enjoyed much of this; but it’s time to go.

But first, I’ve retreated to a totally authentic and unremarkable little bar ‘La Campaña’ adjacent to San Martíno Pinario. Just me and the octogenarian owners. Peace and quiet. The only improvement I could suggest would be a huge quantity of tea.

Finally: I must find some app which requires me to pass a breath-alcohol test before posting.Read more