Spanje
Santas Martas

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    • Dag 23

      Castilla y Leon o sin?

      14 april, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      There's an element of homeschooling to my time here in that I see something I don't understand during the day and then do homework on it in the afternoon when I have wifi. Learning is for life!

      As I mentioned, I'm in Castilla y Leon, the largest, but not only, autonomous region in Spain. Accordingly, most of the trail signage (which, by the way, I don't find as romantic as that in other regions, it's a bit HERE) says Castilla y Leon on it.

      Closer to Burgos, occasionally you'd see the 'y Leon' crossed out. In the past few days the 'Castilla y' has been attacked with a consistency and intensity that increases commensurate with proximity to Leon.

      Today for example, ending in a town 15 minutes from Leon, every single sign has been defaced and I've seen LOTS of graffiti saying things like 'Leon solo (alone)' and 'Leon sin (without) Castilla'. So it's obvious something's up in C y L.

      The long and short of it appears to be "a former Francoist minister, a failed appeal to the Constitutional Court and a counterweight to the nationalists."

      When the Catalan and Basque regions went autonomous in the 70s there was some anxiety they'd be too powerful, so one of Franco's guys convinced Leon to band together with the Castilla region to create a supergroup the majority of Leon people didn't want, and which Leon immediately and unsuccessfully tried to back out of after agreeing.

      They've tried appealing this for ages, and there's some suggestion a new legal avenue might have emerged in the last few years. By the looks of it, some in Leon remain quite enthusiastic about going at it alone.

      In other studies, mum has come through with some insights on those horrid caterpillars. As I suspected, they are up to absolutely ZERO good. Cop the following:

      "DO NOT touch the caterpillars! Their hairs are extremely irritating and may cause long-tern dermatitis and other serious skin conditions. Pets may also have negative reactions. …… The millions of long fine, needle-like hairs that cover each caterpillar are sharp and very brittle. These readily penetrate and break off in human skin and contain an irritating protein that produces a highly allergic response in most people. The hair shafts are covered in microscopic barbs, making them extremely difficult to remove. If these hairs get in the eyes, they can cause blindness …..Being voracious eaters, they will sometimes defoliate their tree and need to move to another. When they do this you’re likely to see them moving as a single train, of up to 200 individual caterpillars, in search of a new tree."
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    • Dag 22

      Mansilla de las Mulas

      6 mei, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Today’s weather was so beautiful that 26km felt like a breeze. Tonight I’m in a private room with Eric and Ashley and we had a great dinner with some pals from New Mexico and Australia. Also made friends with the gato gang.Meer informatie

    • Dag 21

      Reliegos

      11 september 2019, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Nach einem sehr schönen Abend mit Gitarre, Gesang, Reflexionsrunde, gutem Essen und einem tollen Sonnenuntergang ging es nur in das 20 km entfernte Reliegos. Auch so ein verschlafenes Dorf mit vielen halbverfallenen Häusern, das aber viel Pilgertourismus verzeichnet und entsprechend Herbertsbetten bietet. Eine lokale Besonderheit ist Bar Elvis, wo der Besitzer fröhlich zu laut plärrender Rockmusik pfeift und singt. Die Wände sind innen und außen mit Kritzeleien übersät. Wir sind in die öffentliche Herberge eingecheckt, die eine große Küche hat. Mal wieder kein WiFi ;-). Dafür aber einen hervorragenden Minimarkt mit einer herzlichen Eigentümerin, die sogar Nescafé-Portionstütchen einzeln verkauft. Auch Salz gibt es abgepackt in Tablettentüten, ca 50 g. Das brauchen wir, da es mal wieder Pasta mit Gemüse geben wird, heute aufgepeppt mit Linsen. Morgen geht's nach Leòn.Meer informatie

    • Dag 30

      Mansilla de las Mules

      17 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      A few shots on the road from Reliegos to Mansilla da las Mulas.

      Our Kilometer numbers keep going down

      We were lucky to find a couple of unlocked churches in Mansilla (apparently there used to be many Mules here. We did not see any today!)Meer informatie

    • Dag 27

      Day 24 Reliegos to Leon

      14 oktober 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

      It was a relief to wake up and see that it was not raining as predicted. There were several small villages along the route which we enjoyed passing through. At Mansilla de Las Mulas we walked through "The Door of Saint James" the east entrance of a 13th century midevil wall protecting the city and the pilgrims first stop into the Kingdom of Leon.
      The remaining landscape until Leon was farmland and crossing peaceful rivers. Like other big cities it was a long walk into the central district. Our hostel is located on the edge of Plaza Regla right next to the Cathedral of Leon. It is an extremely busy weekend because of Spain Day a national holiday. We were treated to a lovely dinner on the plaza with the "Last Patrol" guys. We walked around a little after dinner and got a few pics. Having a second day here tomorrow will allow for some great exploration.
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    • Dag 5

      Mansilla de las Mullas

      6 oktober 2019, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Dag schatjes van patatjes,

      Dag 6 en ik leef nog. Je houdt het niet voor mogelijk maar weer bijna 40 kilometer gestapt! In het vervolg heb ik geen auto nodig maar gewoon te voet. Aloewel ik hou er niet van om boodschappen ofzo te dragen. Zag dit dus maar niet tegen mijn baas.

      Vandaag heb ik wel voor de eerste keer mijn (goede) muziek gebruikt en het voelde aan alzof we drugs hadden ingenomen (niet dat ik daar iets van weet maar tis van horen zeggen e mama). We voelde onze voeten niet meer en we liepen alzof we koreanen achterna zaten (dat was ook zo). Dankzij de muziek hebben we ook het volle trakect kunnen uitlopen. Goed he.

      Maar nu zitten we in een albergue met ongeveer 28 man. Echt geloof me ik heb geen goedting om te slapen. Ik weet nu al dat dit onbestaande zal zijn. Ik krijg ook een dejavu gevoei maat jullie weten wel waarover ik het heb nietwaar.

      Maar allee we gaan weer eens "lekker" gaan slapen en je hoort me morgen wel als mijn vorten van mijn benen vallen 😭
      Doetjes!!! Xxx
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    • Dag 30

      On the Road to Mansilla de las Mulas

      17 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Another 17K walk on a road filled with agricultural land. I was prepared for a drenching rain, and we lucked out once again. Only few patches of drizzle. We had a coffee break in Reliegos, and got our destination of Mansilla de las Mulas (Mule Saddle?) early afternoon. We entered the town through the "door of St. James". This town definitely has no truck stops! I hope we have turned a corner as we approach the city of Leon, the meseta is slowly ending (churches in the meseta have been mostly closed, when open very stark.) A good sign was that St. Mary's church was open & didn't charge us an entrance fee and was peaceful & beautiful.

      .
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    • Dag 23–24

      Mansilla de las Mullas

      29 september 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Hola, familiares y amigos. Today was just like yesterday as far as distance, views and weather goes.

      Enjoyed seeing some active bodegas (wine cellars built into hillside) as we passed through Reliegos. Arrived in Mansilla in time to check in, enjoy some tapas with Monika (from San Fran) and Barbara (from Nova Scotia) before heading to a three-course lunch at our own hotel: 1) Fried asparagus wrapped in ham; 2) chicken fajita; 3) Greek yogurt with honey and pecans. Still can't get used to the idea that they set a bottle of wine at your table to drink as much or little as you want. All-included price was 15 Euro.

      Eating at 3 is really perfect. It's lunch and dinner in one and you don't have to go to sleep on a full stomach. Help me remember this when I get home!

      We are excited to get to Leon tomorrow for our first two-night stay. Will look for an outfitter store to fix or replace one of my walking poles that randomly broke today and otherwise to restock, refuel and relax.
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    • Dag 25

      To Mansilla de las Mulas

      24 september 2023, Spanje ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      We headed back over to the main Camino route this morning and walked from El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas. Right away we ran into Nika, from Slovakia 🇸🇰 , who we hadn’t seen for over a week. 🙂

      She walked with us all day and shared about life in the village where she grew up and she asked us about life in the USA. This back and forth type of conversation we had over 5 hours of walking is the main reason we came back to the Camino. ❤️

      The Camino to us is all about the people. We had a perfect, beautiful day with Nika and then ended the day with some new friends- Finton (Ireland), Annie, Rossco, and Gaye (all from Australia).

      I have noticed the more we talk to people the fewer pictures and video I take. 🙂 So I did not have much from today.

      Tomorrow, we walk into León.
      Meer informatie

    • El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas

      7 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      About 20km in very good conditions today. Barring mishaps we only need to average 18km days in order to reach Santiago before our flights leave.

      As arranged, our taxista from yesterday picked us up at 7:30 in Sahagún and took us back to where we’d left off in El Burgo. With full packs today we were walking by 7:45, with just enough light to see by.

      45 minutes later we were treated to a spectacular sunrise behind us. There must have been a uniform layer of thin cloud between us and the rising sun such that the golden orb was well defined and not too bright to look at directly.

      It was 13km to the next place supplying food, Reliegos. It was cool, clear and dry weather and generally slightly downhill. More varied landscape too, with no wheat stubble in sight. Quite a bit of corn, and even some cows at one point.

      The path was very good too, shaded almost the entire day by a line of trees right beside it.

      After lunch and a foot rest it was an easy 6km to Mansilla. It seems to be a normal rural town but with quite a number of places for Camino pilgrims to stay. It is situated beside the Esla river we noticed (sounds the same as our surname “Esler”).

      Our room is in La Casa de los Soportales a very comfortable new place.

      We ate a great menu del dia of three courses and a bottle of vino tinto for 32€ for two at La Curiosa. Delicious.
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    Santas Martas

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